The Eguren family, of Rioja fame, founded Bodega Teso la Monja after they sold Numanthia-Termes to the luxury group Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) in 2008. They had founded Numanthia-Termes, a project that turned out to be critical in resurrecting the Toro DO (Denominación de Origen), with Jorge Ordóñez, the famed Spanish wine importer, about a decade earlier.… Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
M. Chapoutier, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “La Bernardine” 2022 ($61)
Although the vast majority of Châteauneuf-du-Pape (95%) is red, a little white is made under that appellation. Chapoutier, a star Rhône producer, has bottled a delectable example. Straw yellow, it has good weight without heaviness. Wonderful acidity balances the stone fruit nuances in this robust white.… Read more
Maison Darragon, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France “Le Haut des Ruettes” 2023 ($12)
The joys and frustrations of Vouvray are the same. Here is an appellation that makes stunning wines from Chenin Blanc that range from dry to sweet. The challenge for the consumer is to know what style is in the bottle before pulling the cork.… Read more
Feudo Montoni, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) LagnusaNero d’Avola2022 ($24, Wilson Daniels)
The Sireci family owns Feudo Montoni, which was founded in 1469 and is one of Sicily’s oldest producers. They focus on autochthonous varieties, such as winsome Nero d’Avola, made from organic grapes. When done right, as this one exemplifies, Nero d’Avola displays an alluring combination of red and black fruit complemented by savory nuances.… Read more
Sealionne, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Halcyon” 2023 ($45)
A recent endeavor, Sealionne released their first wines only a few years ago. Well, it’s either beginner’s luck or they are on to something. Having tasted two of their Pinot Noir releases from the 2022 vintage, and now this stellar Chardonnay, I suspect it’s the latter.… Read more
H. Billiot Fils, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Rosé NV ($65, Skurnik)
H. Billiot, a family-run firm, farms about 12.5 acres in Ambonnay, a village classified as Grand Cru and located in the Montagne de Reims, an area well-known and prized for Pinot Noir. The village also claims Grand Cru status for Chardonnay, which is why this stunning rosé carries the Grand Cru designation.… Read more
Michel Vattan, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “O-P” 2022 ($27, DB Wine Selection)
Vattan, a family-run estate founded in the 1930s, is now run by Pascal and Nathalie Joulin, who took over from the founder’s son, Michel, in 2008. They opted to keep the family name on the label. The “O-P” designation indicates that the grapes come from vines planted on a combination of Oxfordian and Portlandian limestone, common to Sancerre and to Chablis as well.… Read more
Cleto Chiarli e Figli, Lambrusco di Sorbara Secco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “Vecchia Modena Premium” NV ($18, (Dalla Terra)
Lambrusco’s identification as a sweet sparkling red wine, is, thankfully, a thing of the past. We Americans are learning what the Italians have known for decades: dry Lambrusco is the perfect match for richly flavored dishes. We, in fact, opened this one to pair with foie gras over the holidays, and it worked.… Read more
Domaine Boris Champy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) Bignon 421 2023 ($47)
A native of Champagne, Boris Champy spent a decade in California at Dominus and another decade as the technical director at Beaune-based Maison Louis Latour. It’s an understatement to say he knows something about wine. He’s rightly championing the Hautes-Côtes as an appellation for making affordable and high-quality Burgundy.… Read more
Domaine Boris Champy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) Montagne 382 2023 ($47)
With his wines, Boris Champy shows the potential of wines from the Hautes-Côtes, the area just above and to west of the Côte d’Or. In the past, almost everyone dismissed wines from the Hautes Côtes because the elevation made it difficult to ripen the grapes.… Read more
Vara Winery and Distillery, American Zero Dosage Sparkling Wine NV ($27)
Laurent Gruet, the man who put New Mexico on the map as a place for top quality sparkling wines, is now the sparkling winemaker at Vara, which helps explain why the wines across the board are so good. Typically, in the Champagne method, at the end of the second fermentation, the winemaker adds a little wine and sugar, known as the dosage, to round the edges of the finished Champagne.… Read more
Jean-Marc Gilet, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV ($25)
Vouvray, known especially for dry and sweet still wines made from Chenin Blanc, also produces unique sparkling wines from that grape. This still family-owned estate has been making sparkling wine using the traditional method of fermentation — as in Champagne — since 1959.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) “Cabernet Franc di Vignamaggio” 2019 ($115)
Although at first glance, Cabernet Franc may not be associated with Tuscany, the grape has been grown there for over 500 years, since Catherine de’ Medici brought it back from France in the 16th century. Vignamaggio, an estate that makes marvelous Chianti Classico, also does wonders with Cabernet Franc as this organic example from the excellent 2019 vintages shows.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) “Merlot di Santa Maria” 2017 ($84)
Vignamaggio’s Merlot reminds us that this grape, in the right hands, can make complex and serious wines, not just up-front fruit bombs. A lovely tannic presence complements its plummy, dark fruit qualities. A hint of attractive bitterness in the finish is a telltale sign that this Merlot is serious.… Read more
Champalou, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Le Portail” 2022 ($48)
The joy of Vouvray is that the appellation makes a glorious array of dry and sweet wines – and everything in between – from Chenin Blanc. The frustration of Vouvray is not knowing which style will emerge before pulling the cork.… Read more
Volpaia, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($28)
Chianti Classico is one of my go-to wines when dining out because of the consistent quality of the category. I’m even more enthusiastic when I see a producer, like Volpaia, whose wines I always adore, on a wine list. So, it was an easy decision to select this 2022 when eating at Follia, an Italian place in New York’s Gramercy neighborhood.… Read more
Domaine D’Orfeuilles, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Silex d’Orfeuilles” 2023 ($32, Elliott Bay; Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
Wines from Vouvray, which can vary from dry to sweet, can be confusing for consumers because the level of sweetness is not always clear from the label. Here, the back label correctly identifies this winsome wine as dry. Made entirely from organically-grown Chenin Blanc, the ripe and round Silex d’Orfeuilles reflects the warmth of the vintage.… Read more
Vara Winery and Distillery, American “Silverhead” Brut NV ($25)
A bit of background explains why this, and other Vara sparkling wines, are so good. Laurent Gruet, raised in Champagne, had been making world-class sparkling wines in New Mexico for 25 years under the eponymous Gruet label before he sold the company in 2014.… Read more
Domaine Thevenot-Le Brun, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Clos du Vignon 2021 ($29)
The Hautes Côtes, as they are called, the area extending above the Côte d’Or, is making better and better wines thanks to climate change that allows the grapes at this higher altitude to achieve excellent ripeness. And since the appellations still have a distinctly down-market reputation, the prices remain reasonable — at least for Burgundy.… Read more
Jean-Paul and Benoît Droin, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vosgros 2022 ($50)
Droin, one of my favorite Chablis producers, made a spectacular Vosgros in 2022. This lesser known Premier Cru vineyard lies south of the town of Chablis itself, on the left side of Serein River. The vineyard has the best of both worlds, lying in a cool valley, yet mostly as a west-facing amphitheater that assures excellent ripening.… Read more
Vara Winery and Distillery, American Brut Rosé NV ($27)
This powerful sparkling wine, made predominantly from Pinot Noir (75%) dazzles with subtlety spiced strawberries supported by great acidity. Chardonnay adds balance and elegance — and keeps you coming back for another glass. Though labeled as rosé, its color is more gold than pinkish.… Read more
Campàro, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Coste di Vergne 2018 ($80, Oneonthehill)
In addition to their Domani, a Barolo made from a blend of grapes across the DOCG, Campàro also makes this one, Coste di Vergne, from a vineyard located in the commune of Barolo itself. Subdued fruitiness balances its dark, tar-like minerality while fine tannins provide structure to this youthful Barolo.… Read more
Campàro, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Boiolo MGA 2019 ($80, Oneonthehill)
This La Morra-based MGA, Boiolo, from Campàro brilliantly shows that the French have no monopoly on terroir. Despite being made with the same grape, Nebbiolo, as this producer’s wine from the Coste di Vergne growing site, Campàro’s Boiolo displays an entirely different face of Barolo, showing the importance of site.… Read more
M. Chapoutier, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Meysonniers” 2023 ($24, Folio)
Chapoutier, one of the top Rhône producers, consistently makes a winsome Crozes-Hermitage, from the generally flatter and larger appellation surrounding the exalted Hermitage hill. Their Syrah-based, mid-weight 2023 Les Meysonniers, made from organically grown grapes, displays fresh and lively red fruit notes overlain with peppery nuances.… Read more
Early Mountain, Virginia Petit Manseng 2023 ($65)
Petit Manseng, a grape known for its small berries — hence its name — is native in southwest France where its high acidity balances its ripeness, making it a fine choice for sweet wines. The grape is gaining appeal in Virginia, where Early Mountain transforms it into a dry wine.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Gherardino” 2021 ($36)
Both charming and robust, this Chianti Classico Riserva blends dark cherry-like fruit with alluring and balancing “not just fruit” nuances. A bit of Merlot in the blend adds to its heft without overpowering and detracting from its character. Though youthful, it’s fine to drink now because of its freshness, fine tannins, and complexity.… Read more
Campàro, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Domani” 2019 ($60, Oneonthehill)
The youthful and firm 2020 Domani seemingly combines the best of the 2018 and 2019 vintages of this wine. It has the weight and black fruitiness of the former harmonized with the elegance and prettiness of the latter. Like the 2019, this beautiful Barolo should be enjoyed now for those who enjoy its youthful energy and structure or cellared for a decade to see it all come together as this balanced young Barolo will.… Read more
Campàro, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Domani” 2018 ($60, Oneonthehill)
Campàro, a family-owned estate founded in 1980, has gradually and thoughtfully expanded. They started by selling wine in bulk, then purchased vineyards, became certified as organic, and they now have about 20-acres in and around the Barolo DOCG. Their Domani bottling comes from vineyards in the comunes of Grinzane Cavour, Barolo itself, and La Morra.… Read more
Sealionne Wines, Ribbon Ridge (Willamette Valley, Oregon) West Wine Vineyard Pinot Noir “Kilig” 2022 ($45)
Sealionne’s Kilig Pinot Noir shows more “oomph” compared to their more delicate Métier bottling. Spicy oak also adds heft and an extra dimension but at this stage is a touch dominating. Nonetheless, lovely, bright cherry-like fruitiness and a suave texture make it delightful to drink now.… Read more
Palmer & Co, Champagne (France) “La Réserve Nature” NV ($55, Quintessential)
This masterful Chardonnay-dominant blend contains a significant portion (a third) of reserve wine, which likely helps explain its stature. No dosage allows the clear fruit and mineral aspect to speak clearly. Even without a touch of sugar to round its edges — there are no edges to round — its impeccable balance and length make this a joy to drink.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese Di Vitigliano 2016 ($84)
A heavy bottle accurately predicts a full-bodied wine, weighing in at a stated 14.5 percent alcohol. This broad and deep style of Sangiovese delivers a dark, almost tarry mineral aspect atop a dark black cherry base. At almost a decade of age, the tannins are still apparent yet not slightly intrusive.… Read more
Granbazán, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Etiqueta Verde” 2024 ($23)
I reviewed this racy beauty earlier this year because it could cut through the heat and humidity of summer. I just tasted it again, at GupShup, a fine Indian restaurant in Manhattan where it cut through the heat found in that cuisine.… Read more
Juvé & Camps, Cava (Spain) Brut Rosé NV ($20, Vintus)
If all Cava were of this quality, some leading producers would not have left the D.O. This powerful, Pinot Noir-based rosé delivers notes recalling wild strawberries atop a firm backbone of acidity. Bright and racy, there is plenty of depth here, making it a fine choice for the plethora of flavors included in a tapas meal.… Read more
Sealionne Wines, Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “Métier” 2022 ($40)
This delicate, pale colored Pinot Noir, weighing in at (what these days is a “mere”) 13 percent stated alcohol, captivates with its savory, rather than fruity profile. Certainly not an opulent or rich style of Pinot Noir, the amount of enjoyment it delivers for its light weight is deceiving and astounding.… Read more
Campàro, Langhe Nebbiolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cosi” 2022 ($40, Oneonthehill)
Full disclosure: I love Langhe Nebbiolo. It has the much of the allure of Barolo without the decade-long need for bottle age. Campàro’s beguiling 2022 combines an aromatic floral aspect with complementary savory nuances both on the nose and the palate.… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Var IGP (Provence, France) Pinot Noir “Valmoissine” 2024 ($18, Louis Latour USA)
Latour started this project in the mid-1980s, finally buying land and planting Pinot Noir in this part of Provence in 1990. They purchased and renovated a winery in the area. The winemaking is identical to what they do in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or.… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Ardeche IGP (France) Chardonnay “Grand Ardeche” 2023 ($17, Louis Latour USA)
Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Beaune-based négociant who has always been known for their structured and precise white wines, expanded outside to Burgundy further south into the Ardeche to produce Chardonnay in the 1980s. The result has turned out to be very successful as a source for bargain-priced wine.… Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Preuses” 2023 ($89, Louis Latour USA)
The 2023 vintage produced many fleshy Chablis wines that have lost their classical mineral-y profile. Not this one. Simonet-Febvre has crafter a spectacular Preuses in 2023, brimming with a stoney minerality and riveting acidity. Long and impressive, this Preuses is the real thing.… Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “Les Chaillots” 2023 ($105, Louis Latour USA)
The Latour style — imbuing the wines with excellent acidity — worked especially well in 2023, which generally produced fleshy, generous wines with lower acidity. This splendid 2023 Les Chaillots could be considered a “baby” Corton Grancey, Latour’s flagship red. It delivers what for me is the typical iron-tinged body and firmness of red Corton.… Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Château Corton Grancey 2023 ($157, Louis Latour USA)
As much as I was smitten by Latour’s 2023 Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Chaillots, and I was, Latour’s flagship red, Chateau Corton Grancey shows the stature of a Grand Cru and is, well, just better. The name is an anomaly since there are no “châteaux” in Burgundy like those in Bordeaux.… Read more
Château Noaillac, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2019 ($16)
The mid-weight 2019 Château Noaillac, a classic example of why Bordeaux remains popular, delivers a harmonious mixture of red and black fruit notes with subtle, non-fruity savory elements. Mild, fine-grained tannins lend an ideal amount of structure without intruding, making this 2019 surprisingly ready to drink now.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Terre di Prenzano” 2021 ($45)
The location of the Sangiovese vineyards used for Vignamaggio’s Prenzano sit at the estate’s highest elevation in Greve, which helps explain the vivacity of this gorgeous 2021 Chianti Classico. Bright and fresh, this Chianti Classico delivers plenty of red cherry-like fruitiness accompanied by good depth, without any heaviness.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Monna Lisa” 2017 ($74)
The 2017 vintage in Chianti Classico was generally abysmal. Be warned that when you generalize about a vintage, you can miss the pearls, like Vignamaggio’s 2017 Gran Selezione. Remember, Gran Selezione sits at the apex of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid above Reserva.… Read more
Willamette Valley Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Whole Cluster” 2023 ($29)
I won’t get into the winemaking concept of using whole clusters instead of destemming the grapes before fermentation because that’s too geeky for a review. Let’s just say that some very well-known Burgundy producers embrace it while other very well-known Burgundy producers avoid it.… Read more
Alain Robert, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Troglodyte” Brut NV ($23)
Vouvray, the famous appellation in the Loire, makes lovely sparkling wines from Chenin Blanc in addition to their still wines. Alain Robert’s refreshing one combines a delicate and restrained fruitiness — Chenin Blanc speaking — with a firm minerality that comes from the terroir.… Read more
Cavazza, Gambellara Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Bocara” 2024 ($26)
Think of Gambellara as the epitome of Soave. Gambellara lies about 15 miles northeast of Soave, usually mostly the same grape, Garganega, and has similar volcanic terroir. But while much of Soave vineyards lie on the plains, most of Gambellara’s have better exposures, on hillsides.… Read more
Château Ramafort, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2016 ($25)
Wines, like this one, classified as Cru Bourgeois (a level of classification just below the more exalted Cru Classé) offer terrific value. At nearly a decade of age, the sturdy and mature 2016 Château Ramafort delivers a seamless combination of black fruit and savory olive-like nuances.… Read more
Château Peyrabon, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2016 ($23)
I am pleasantly surprised to find this bargain-priced and ready-to-drink beauty still available. This lovely mid-weight — 13 percent stated-alcohol — Bordeaux displays impeccable balance of dark fruit accented by a haunting mineral-like quality, all sitting atop a suave texture. The empty glass of this finesse-filled beauty smells good!… Read more
Château Patache d’Aux, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($39)
Château Patache d’Aux, another overachiever, gained Cru Bourgeois Supérieur status, a step up from Cru Bourgeois, with the 2025 classification. The youthful 2018 delivers great aromatics followed by an attractive dark, slightly tarry mineral underpinning. I would open and decant this beauty a few hours before serving or, alternatively, keep it in the cellar for another couple of years.… Read more
Château du Taillan, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($25)
Château du Taillan has always been one of my favorite Cru Bourgeois wines. One of the benefits to consumers of the Cru Bourgeois Classification is that the wine authorities re-visit the hierarchy every five years, forcing producers to keep on their toes.… Read more