Since the La Mouline vineyard is an amphitheater on the steeply sloped Côte Blonde portion of Côte Rôtie, the vines have a spectrum of exposures, which I suspect accounts (at least in part) for the wine’s extraordinary complexity. Philippe Guigal, who oversees this still family-owned estate, explains that there’s schist, not granite, and limestone on the Côte Blonde, which gives an elegance to the Syrah. Of course, the inclusion of Viognier, an aromatic white grape, also helps explain the wine’s consistent grandeur. The tiny (1-ha or 2.5-acre) vineyard is planted with Syrah (89 percent) and Viognier, which is kept constant by replacing individual vines of each variety when needed. La Mouline has always been my favorite of Guigal’s “LaLa” renditions of high-end Côte Rôtie, perhaps because it was the only one of them back in the 1970s when I first encountered it. But, in reality, I think it’s the inclusion of Viognier in the blend that has seduced me even after the other LaLa’s arrived on the market. The Viognier adds a gorgeous floral effect that balances and enhances the meaty nature of the Syrah, while simultaneously amplifying the wine’s elegance. The stunning 2022 La Mouline takes your breath away with its depth, layers of flavors, and finesse. At this stage, the 40-months the wine spent in new oak is apparent but does not intrude. Indeed, many people enjoy the seductive quality of La Mouline in its youth. In my experience, the oak melts seamlessly into the wine with a decade of age. La Mouline develops gorgeously with time, mimicking the “flavor without weight” quality of Burgundy.
98 Michael Apstein – June 10, 2026