Minerals, flint, stones – these are the primary sensory signals that sum up this fabulous Chablis 1er Cru. Billaud admits that his 2023s are more minerally than many from that vintage and thinks it is because he waited longer to bottle them, allowing them to pick up additional complexity from the lees. Indeed, you would be forgiven if you thought this Montée de Tonnerre – all his 2023 Chablis for that matter – hailed from a cooler vintage. The racy finish just amplifies this wine’s charms. It is hard to resist now, but I’m certain it will develop more complexity with more bottle age.
94 Michael Apstein – March 18, 2026