Domaine de Villaine makes a stunning array of wines from Bouzeron, an appellation for only white wine and one that mandates the use of Aligoté, not Chardonnay. Aubert de Villaine, who was a previous director of Domaine Romanée Conti, oversees the Domaine, and as you might imagine, knows something about making wine from Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir for this wine comes from a variety of parcels throughout the village but since the appellation prohibits anything but Aligoté, the wine cannot use the more well-known village appellation. Rather it falls under the somewhat generic – and obscure – Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise. Well, don’t let the appellation fool you. Yes, a Pinot Noir from Bouzeron is obscure, but this is no generic wine. Instead, the enticing wine displays the Janus-like character of Burgundy with dark fruity elements faultlessly balanced by herbal and briary ones. Though light on the palate, it impresses with its depth, what I call “flavor without weight.” Its suave texture makes it a delight to drink now with grilled salmon.
92 Michael Apstein – April 22, 2026