Aligoté, Burgundy’s “other” white grape, has historically been used in Kir, an aperitif because it needed a dollop of crème de cassis to balance the screeching acidity inherent to the grape. A combination of climate change and renewed focus by producers such as Sylvain Pataille has created a renaissance for Aligoté. Pataille’s energetic 2023 has sufficient weight to balance its cutting acidity. Aligoté, especially ones of this character, are versatile because their edginess cuts through prominent flavors in many foods. It was ideal with grilled sardines and mackerel, not exactly delicate fish. It would be equally fine with red meat, so keep Aligoté in mind for summertime grilling.
93 Michael Apstein – June 10, 2026