E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Château d’Ampuis” 2022 ($175, Vintus)

Guigal’s Côte Rôtie under the Château d’Ampuis label lies between their excellent (and not to be overlooked) Brune et Blonde bottling and their highly prized “LaLas” both in quality and price. Typically a blend of about 93 percent Syrah co-fermented with 7% Viognier, the grapes comes from seven parcels, three from the Côte Blonde (Le Clos, La Garde, and La Grande Plantée) and four from the Côte Brune (La Pommière, Le Pavillon Rouge, Le Moulin and La Viria) all of which are adjacent to one of their “LaLa” vineyard plots. The 2022 Château d’Ampuis, like previous vintages, is a magical Côte Rôtie, drawing you in with floral aromatics provided by that touch of Viognier. (Even the empty glass smells great after this has graced it!) Then, spicy, peppery really, and subtle meaty notes caress the palate. Fine tannins add to its finesse and make this elegant powerhouse approachable even at this youthful stage. The nearly four years of oak aging in new barrels adds depth without distracting wood flavors. All of this comes with a modest stated alcohol of 13.5 percent, once again showing you don’t need super-ripe grapes to make a superb wine. I recommend either drinking it now – it will likely close down in a year or so – or cellaring it for a decade.
97 Michael Apstein – May 27, 2026