Category Archives: Decanter

From Decanter Magazine: Capezzana’s Trefiano: Quintessential Carmignano

To celebrate the 40th anniversary of Trefiano – Tenuta di Capezzana’s stunning take on Carmignano Riserva – a vertical tasting of a handful of vintages ranging from 1988 to 2019 (the current release) was held in Florence this February.

In preparation for the tasting, I opened a bottle of the 2015 from my own cellar, so I have included my impression of that below, along with the wines from the tasting.… Read more

Another addition to the Chianti quality pyramid: tasting Rùfina’s Terraelectae wines

Federico Giuntini Masseti, president of the Chianti Rùfina Consorzio, says that the purpose of Terraelectae – Chianti Rùfina’s new top-tier category- is to highlight the special character of the Sangiovese-based wines from Rùfina’s unique terroir. The producers hope the category will allow Chianti Rùfina to emerge from Chianti Classico’s shadow and be considered a top Tuscan DOCG, like Brunello.… Read more

Louis Jadot, Côte de Beaune-Villages, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026
Warm vintages such as 2018, provide less prestigious appellations, such as this one, with often-needed ripeness which enhances their appeal. Though a négociant bottling, winemaker Frédéric Barnier included some declassified estate fruit from Santenay, Monthélie, Chorey- and Savigny-lès-Beaune, which likely accounts for the wine’s density.
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Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Beaumonts, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2021 – 2028
Chorey lès Beaune has no 1er cru and much of its vineyards lie on the other side of the D974 road connecting Dijon and Beaune. Les Beaumonts climat, however, lies on the ‘good’ side of the road, nestled between Aloxe-Corton and Savigny-lès-Beaune, which perhaps explains part of the nexpected grandeur for this unassuming village wine.
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Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Corton Les Pougets Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2026 – 2036
Jadot’s Pinot Noir in the Corton Les Pougets climat (also the site for their Corton-Charlemagne) is planted high up on the slope and faces south, which likely explains its consistent ripeness. The 2018 is, like Jadot’s other 2018 Côte de Beaune bottlings, wonderfully fresh and lively, balancing its iron-tinged fleshiness.
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Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Beaune, 1er Cru Clos des Ursules, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2023 – 2033
Still owned by the Jadot family, (hence, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot), this 2.8 hectare walled plot included within the 1er cru Vignes Franches, is Jadot’s flagship Beaune bottling. The 2018, to my mind, is one of the best Clos des Ursules Jadot has ever made – it is explosive, delivering both power and finesse, buttressed by freshness.
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Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2011

Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026
At a decade of age, this Jadot Corton-Charlemagne is a stunning surprise from this poorly-regarded vintage. Bright, fresh and long, it delivers distinct minerality, depth and an alluring hint of orange-rind spice. It’s a beautifully developed Corton-Charlemagne that is just hitting its stride and shows no signs of fading soon.
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Domaine Louis Jadot, Meursault, 1er Cru Perrieres, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034
Jadot’s parcel lies near the top of the Les Perrières Dessus lieu-dit, a cooler site, which explains, in part, why this wine has such brilliant acidity, and, as a consequence, incredible length. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier also notes that they blocked the malolactic fermentation, preserving the more prominent malic acid in the wine.
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Glory in Givry: Domaine du Cellier Aux Moines

As in its more famous neighbouring region, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay reign supreme and, with rare exceptions, are the mandated grapes for the wines.

Major appellations in the Côte Chalonnaise, moving from north to south, include Rully and Mercurey, which produce both red and white wine, Givry, which produces mostly (80%) red wine, and Montagny, which produces white wine exclusively.… Read more

Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2016

Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030
The Pascals introduced organic farming in 2016, which may explain its success in that tricky vintage. The only problem: it follows the 2015. Captivating savoury notes—that not-just-fruit character—are apparent and mingle with dark cherry-like fruitiness. Suave texture, now a hallmark of the domaine since 2015, adds to its appeal.
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