($20, Disaronno International):  Duca di Salaparuta, one of the oldest wineries in Sicily, introduced many Americans to the value-packed joy of Sicilian wines decades ago with Corvo, which was made with purchased grapes grown all over the island.  Well, Duca di Salaparuta has evolved and now makes a bevy of distinctive estate wines.  The Passo delle Mule comes exclusively from Nero d’Avola grapes grown on their Sour Marchese Estate just inland from the southern coast.  I love wines made from Nero d’Avola because, when done well, they offer complexity — fruit and earthy flavors — even when young.  This one checks all the boxes:  Good weight, yet not heavy.  Dark fruit flavors intermingled seamlessly with savory/earthy ones.  Bright acidity that keeps it lively throughout the meal.  And well-priced.  It is perfect for current consumption and will serve you well with robust fare of fall and into the winter.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 25, 2022