Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Red Label” 2019

($48):  Caprio Cellars focuses on the grapes typically found in red Bordeaux.  The extra reliance on Cabernet Sauvignon, 78 versus 62 percent, and no Malbec makes it a fascinating comparison to their “Eleanor.”  Here, delightful savory, black olive-like, rather than berry notes dominate.  There’s more of a tannic grip, but the tannins are not green nor intrusive.  Indeed, the suave texture is another appealing aspect of this Cabernet.  Like their Eleanor, Caprio’s Cabernet has impeccable balance with freshness and verve that keeps the palate interested throughout a meal.  There’s no palate fatigue from heaviness here.  It’s a fine choice for beef this autumn, but like Eleanor, it should develop beautifully over the next decade or more.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2022