Breaux Vineyards, Virginia (United States) Nebbiolo Reserve “The Fog” 2019

($72):  The wine is appropriately named The Fog since nebbia, from which Nebbiolo takes its name, is Italian for fog.  This fabulous expression of Nebbiolo speaks for itself so the heavy bottle with the cumbersome wax/rubber overlay to the cork is unnecessary.  The wine’s pale color is deceptive given the flavor that emerges — it is truly Nebbiolo.  The engaging combination of floral and tarry elements is apparent as soon as you pour it and then explode on the palate with the first sip.  There is a captivating mix of fresh and dried fruit, and leafy notes, giving it a wonderful “not just fruit” quality.  Not an opulent wine, it impresses with its paradox of austerity and substance.  The tannins you would expect from Nebbiolo are there, especially in the finish, but they are firm, not hard nor astringent.  Do not be put off by the 16.2 % stated alcohol.  The wine is harmonious, not heavy nor alcoholic.
94 Michael Apstein May 21, 2024