Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) La Rivetta 2021

($50):  Cartizze is a small (roughly 260-acre) steeply sloped area of vineyards that represent the pinnacle of the Prosecco quality pyramid.  And Sandi’s from their La Rivetta plot within Cartizze fits that perfectly.  Oddly, though, Prosecco is nowhere to be found on the label, which is a common practice among Prosecco producers who bottle a Cartizze.  It is as though they are trying to distance themselves from the Prosecco image.  I get it, and they’re entitled to do this, as Cartizzze is a DOCG in its own right, and is regarded as the one and only true “Cru” in the prime growing region of Valdobbiadene.  Villa Sandi’s La Rivetta Cartizze is like no Prosecco I’ve tasted.  And why would someone spend 50 bucks for Prosecco?  Well, because this one is terrific.  It deftly combines a subtle and refined fruitiness with a distinct minerality.  An alluring cutting profile and fine texture just amplify its appeal.  Drink it as an aperitif, for sure, but its vibrancy and depth mean it is a great choice with fettucine Alfredo or other richly sauced pasta.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2024