Henri Perrusset, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2020

($22, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):  Wines labeled Mâcon-Villages vary from the banal to extraordinary value.  Put this one squarely in the latter category.  Mâcon-Villages, a regional appellation in southern Burgundy, is large by Burgundy standards, 8,500 acres, and comprises 26 named villages lumped under the same umbrella.  If all the grapes come from the same village, the wine is typically more interesting, and the producer can append the village name to Mâcon.  But do not ignore ones, like this one, simple labeled Mâcon-Villages from a talented producer.  Perrusset has a small domaine that he harvests by hand, uses only native yeasts in the fermentation, and ages this wine on the lees in stainless steel vats for eight to ten months to preserve fruitiness.  His 2020 Mâcon-Villages has charm and depth with requisite enlivening acidity that keeps it fresh.  It is a great choice for drinking this summer — and beyond.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 8, 2023