The Hautes Côtes, as they are called, the area extending above the Côte d’Or, is making better and better wines thanks to climate change that allows the grapes at this higher altitude to achieve excellent ripeness. And since the appellations still have a distinctly down-market reputation, the prices remain reasonable — at least for Burgundy. Domaine Thevenot-Le Brun is a top producer in the area. Half the parcel for this Chardonnay-based wine dates from vines planted during the 1960s, which helps explain its depth and appeal. Aged partially in tank and in a combination of old and new oak, it delivers both richness and a distinct mineral component atop a suave texture, all supported by spice and invigorating acidity. It is ready to drink, and an exceptional bargain.
93 Michael Apstein – December 17, 2025