E. Guigal, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) “La Doriane” 2024 ($150, Vintus)

Rightly revered for their reds, Guigal also makes stunning white wines. Philippe Guigal, the third generation of family ownership, explains that the decomposed granite soil of Condrieu is perfectly suited for Viognier. In other soils, Viognier produces a heavy wine, losing delicacy and verve. Guigal makes a “regular” Condrieu (although it’s tough to call it “regular” because it is so good) as well as this one, made from a selection of their best grapes cherry-picked from five different plots. They vinify and age them separately in oak and then create a final blend for La Doriane. The sensationally floral 2024 dances on the palate and delivers more depth than you’d expect since its seemingly weightless, despite its oak treatment. It has the Burgundian paradox of flavor without weight, and a bright and long finish that amplifies its considerable charm.
95 Michael Apstein – May 27, 2026