Unlike this easy-to-appreciate wine, the label needs some unraveling. Cavazza needs no introduction. They are a top producer in the Veneto, based at their estate, Tenuta Cicogna. Despite receiving DOC status more than 50 years ago, the Colli Berici, or the hills of Berici, is not terribly well-known. Located halfway between Venice and Lake Garda near Soave, it’s a small area, consisting of only about 2,200 acres. Ever more Soave producers are buying vineyards there, taking advantage of its soil and elevation. The label reads “Cabernet,” leading me to wonder whether it was Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc. Upon tasting, its glorious leafy character that offset and harmonized with its fruitiness made me think it was Cabernet Franc. Then I went to the website to discover it is entirely Cabernet Sauvignon! Its wonderful texture, with fine tannins and lively character, means it is an excellent choice for current wintery fare.
93 Michael Apstein – January 14, 2026