Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Gagey” 2023 ($70, Kobrand)

Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s venerable producers, is a grower, that is, they own or control vineyards, as well as a négociant. The Domaine Gagey designation at the bottom of the classic Jadot label means that the grapes came from a vineyard owned by the Gagey family, which has run the company since 1962 after the sudden death of Louis Auguste Jadot, who had no heirs. As such, Jadot controls everything about the viticulture, such as, how and when to prune, the yield, and the date of harvest. Jadot’s stupendous 2023 Beaune Aux Cras is not burdened by over ripeness that some wines from that vintage display. It leads with fine, floral aromatics. Then, minerals and earth emerge from the dark fruitiness, imbuing the wine with complexity and allure. Despite its considerable depth, it’s not heavy. Great acidity enlivens it and amplifies its charms. In a word, it sings!
95 Michael Apstein – February 4, 2026