French wine authorities allow only four grapes, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, and Muscat, to proclaim “Grand Cru” on the label when planted in any Alsace Grand Cru-designated vineyard. Sylvaner was excluded except (there are always exceptions in France) when planted in the Grand Cru vineyard of Zotzenberg. Despite this slight, consumers should not be deterred from seeking it out. Sylvaner can still make superior wine, especially in the hands of talented producers, such as Paul Blanck, and especially from Vieilles Vignes (old vines). Blanck’s glossy and suavely textured 2022 Sylvaner has plenty of vibrancy to balance its moderate weight. A depth to the finish adds to its appeal. It is a great choice as an aperitif or to accompany charcuterie.
91 Michael Apstein – March 11, 2026