Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Bortolomiol, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Bandarossa” Extra Dry 2023 ($25)

Prosecco Superiore, as my colleague here at Wine Review Online recently pointed out, is a category of Prosecco that is a step above those labeled simply Prosecco because the land from which the grapes come is, well, just better. Bortolomiol, certainly one of the names to remember, makes a range of fine Prosecco sparklers.… Read more

Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2023 ($50, Demeine Estates)

As my colleague here at Wine Review Online recently pointed out, “it’s the time to taste the ‘Good Stuff’” in reference to Prosecco. Well, this Cartizze from Sandi is really the “Good Stuff.” Cartizze, with its area of only about 250 acres of vines and accounting for about 0.1 percent of Prosecco’s output, is considered the pinnacle of the Prosecco quality pyramid.… Read more

Ronchi di Manzano, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2022 ($20, R&B Wine Imports)

Pinot Grigio grapes actually have a pinkish hue to them. When crushed gently, they make the usual white Pinot Grigio wine. When crushed with a touch more force or when the skins and juice are kept in contact for a little time during fermentation, the wine has a copper (ramato in Italian) tint.… Read more

Cascina Adelaide, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Vigna Preda 2019 ($28, R&B Wine Imports)

My familiarity with Cascina Adelaide is limited to their superb Barolo, so I jumped at the chance to taste this Barbara d’Alba. Well, based on this example, their Barbera is in the same league as their Barolo releases. Cascina Adelaide’s aromatic 2019 Barbera is a delight because it’s fruity, but not too much so, and not heavy.… Read more

Badia di Morrona, Chianti Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2021

($26, VOS Selections):  Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva.  The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively.  Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften. Read more

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2022

($29, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co):  Saint Véran, an appellation in Mâconnais, the southern part of Burgundy, abuts and surrounds Pouilly-Fuissé.  Like its more famous — and expensive — neighbor, it makes only white wines and only from Chardonnay.  Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, has been making a consistently excellent Saint Véran year in and year out for decades. Read more

Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2022

($40):  Combine William Fèvre, one of the top producers in Chablis, with an excellent vintage for that region and you get a terrific village wine.  William Fèvre owns a staggering 200 acres of vineyards in Chablis, just under half of which carry either 1er Cru or Grand Cru designations, which leaves them a lot of choice for what they bottle under the village appellation. Read more

Badia di Morrona, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Taneto” 2021

($25, VOS Selections):  I was unfamiliar with the Pisa-based producer, Badia di Morrona until their Italian public relations firm sent me samples.  After tasting a trio of their wines, I’m glad I’ve been introduced!  Taneto, a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese, and Merlot, delivers both dark fruit and a “not just fruit” character that makes it very appealing. Read more

Badia di Morrona, Terre di Pisa DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese “VignaAlta” 2019

($42, VOS Selections):  With their N’Antia, Badia di Morrona shows how well Bordeaux varieties do in Tuscany outside of Bolgheri.  With VignaAlta, they show that Sangiovese reigns supreme in Tuscany.  Racy and elegant, the youthful 2019 VignaAlta is show stopping.  Sure, red and dark cherries, the signature of Tuscan Sangiovese, are evident but more emerges as the wine sits in the glass. Read more

Lionel Faury, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Ribaudes” 2021

($41, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):  St. Joseph, an important but sometimes overlooked appellation in the Northern Rhône, is exceptionally long, running on the west bank of that river from Cornas in the south to Condrieu in the north.  Its soils and exposures are varied, given its length, unlike its more circumscribed neighbors, Cornas, Hermitage, and Côte Rôtie, so it’s hard to generalize about the wines. Read more

Rotem and Mounir Saouma, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Arioso” 2020

($175, Vintus):  With Arioso, and indeed all of Rotem and Mounir Saouma’s Rhône wines, the finesse and weightlessness of Burgundy meets the muscle of the Rhône.  In Burgundy, the husband-and-wife team is a mini-négociant, buying small amounts of grapes or newly pressed wine from growers—typically just a few barrels—raising it, and bottling it under the Lucien Le Moine label. Read more

Silver Oak, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

($100):  Plush and sexy, Silver Oak’s dazzling 2020 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon delivers succulent dark fruit offset by black olive-like nuances.  Polished and suave tannins provide support without being intrusive or distracting, allowing for immediate enjoyment with a steak.  Good acidity keeps it bright and you coming back for another sip.Read more

Nicolas-Jay Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “L’Ensemble” 2022

($75):  Nicolas-Jay, a collaboration between Jean-Nicolas Méo, who runs the celebrated Domaine Méo-Camuzet, one of Burgundy’s top producers, and Jay Boberg, a music industry giant, is just a decade old and is already one of Oregon’s leading producers.  Only the second vintage vinified in their own winery, their 2022s all have a captivating purity and elegance. Read more

Rocche Costamagna, Barolo Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) Rocche Dell’Annunziata “Bricco Francesco” 2016

($96):  Costamagna’s majestic Riserva, Bricco Francesco, comes from the higher part of Rocche Dell’Annunziata, which most producers believe has better soil and exposure.  At eight years of age, its bricky color suggests maturity, but don’t be fooled.  At this stage, engaging floral notes are apparent, followed by mineraly and red fruit nuances. Read more

Conde Valdemar, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2015

($30, Cru Selections):  Regulations for the Reserva category of Rioja require at least 3 years of aging, one of which must be in barrel, before release.  Many, like this beauty, are aged longer before they hit retailers’ shelves.  Hint of brown mahogany in the color announces it maturity and the non-fruit panoply of flavors (coffee and even leather-like notes) on the palate confirms it. Read more

Mar de Frades, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2022

($23, Zamora Company):  Albariño and Rías Baixas are practically synonymous.  Yes, there is a little other white wine produced aside from Albariño, and of course, in neighboring Portugal, the same grape (Alvarinho in Portuguese) is used for Vinho Verde.  But Albariño from Rías Baixas is hard to resist, especially in the summer because its uplifting citrus acidity refreshes and simultaneously cuts through most anything on the table, even barbecued chicken. Read more