Montmains is what the Chablisiens refer to as a “flag bearing” Premier Cru vineyard. That means that the less well-known Forêts and Butteaux, neighboring Premier Cru vineyards located on the same hill, can use Montmains, the more well-known name, rather than their own.… Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Louis Michel, Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($53)
Although the 2023 and a few 2024 Chablis represent the current releases from that appellation, I draw consumers’ attention to Domaine Louis Michel’s stellar 2022s, which, inexplicably, are still available on retailers’ shelves. This Vaillons and their Montmains (also reviewed this week) show the wonderful diversity of Chablis.… Read more
Langlois, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut Réserve NV ($29, Vintus)
In 1912, Edouard Langlois and his wife, Jeanne Château, founded the firm of Langlois-Château. Bollinger, of Champagne fame, acquired the company in 1973, which helps explain the consistent success of their Crémant de Loire. A few years ago, they changed the name to simply Langlois to avoid confusion because people kept wondering where the château was!… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Gagey” 2023 ($70, Kobrand)
Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s venerable producers, is a grower, that is, they own or control vineyards, as well as a négociant. The Domaine Gagey designation at the bottom of the classic Jadot label means that the grapes came from a vineyard owned by the Gagey family, which has run the company since 1962 after the sudden death of Louis Auguste Jadot, who had no heirs.… Read more
Montes, Valle de Colchagua (Chile) Carmenère “Alpha” 2022 ($25)
It seems we don’t see enough of Carmenère in the U.S., even though the grape does so well in Chile, just as its fellow Bordeaux prodigal brother, Malbec, does in Argentina. And, with its 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, it could easily be mistaken for a Left Bank Second Growth Bordeaux wine in taste and style.… Read more
Famille Masse, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2024 ($25, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
Roland Masse was the winemaker for the Hospices de Beaune for years, so it’s not surprising that he should have turned out this balanced and engaging Pinot Noir-based Burgundy from the Côte Chalonnaise. As the price shows, once you leave the Côte d’Or, value in Burgundy is not an oxymoron.… Read more
Château Poujeaux, Moulis-en-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2022 ($46)
Château Poujeaux is nestled in Moulis-en-Médoc, set back from the Gironde estuary between the St. Julien and Margaux appellations. Poujeaux is always more affordable than its lauded neighbors and is currently one of the best buys among fine Bordeaux. The wines of Poujeaux benefit from deep, gravelly soils that surround the estate.… Read more
Union des Propriétaires Récoltants Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV ($57, Vineyard Road)
Who says co-ops can’t make great wine? This wine from a co-op, founded in 1937 and based in Mesnil-sur-Oger, arguably Champagne’s most famous village for Chardonnay, will convince any skeptic. Some of Champagne’s most famous wines, Krug’s Clos du Mesnil, the Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons of Peirre Péters, and, of course, Salon, all with three- or sometimes four-digit price tags, hail from this village.… Read more
Domaine Sylvain Dussort, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée les Ormes” 2022 ($45, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
With the prices for Burgundy at ridiculous levels, those 99-percenters of us who love the wines from the region must search wines from less prestigious appellations – like Bourgogne Côte d’Or – that are made by top producers, like Domaine Sylvain Dussort.… Read more
Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2024 ($29, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
This bargain-priced Chardonnay-based white from the Hautes Côtes supports my opinion that Domaine Sylvain Langoureau is one of the unrecognized stars in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. The grapes for this beauty come from vineyards above St. Aubin on the way to the village of La Rochepot.… Read more
Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) Clos Marc 2024 ($29, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
The Hautes Côtes, as they are called, is the current hotspot for affordable Burgundy thanks to climate change. The rustic tannins due to unripe grapes are no longer an inevitable hallmark of wines from there. Based in the Côte d’Or village of Gamay in St.… Read more
Domaine Jean Féry, Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($45)
Firmly established in Échevronne in the Hautes Cotes de Beaune, Domaine Jean Féry, still family run, has been making wine there since 1969. They were early advocates of organic farming, achieving organic certifications for all their vineyards in 2011. They do not receive the recognition they deserve, which is a good thing for consumers because it means their pricing is more reasonable.… Read more
Mosnel, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “EBB” 2019 ($80)
Founded in 1836 and still family-owned, Mosnel is one of the top producers of Franciacorta which arguably, is Italy’s finest sparkling wine. This vintage-dated beauty, named with the initials of the founder, Emanula Barzanò Barboglio, is simply stunning. Made entirely from organically grown Chardonnay, fermented in oak barrels and aged on the lees for 36 months, it delivers elegance and a wow-factor without heaviness.… Read more
Mosnel, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) ”Parosé” 2019 ($80)
It is hard to decide between Mosnel’s Parosé and their EBB 2019 if you’re splurging on bubbly in defiance of a dry January. You will not be disappointed with either of them! The Parosé, a seamless and lively blend of Pinot Noir (two-thirds) and Chardonnay delivers red fruited power swaddled with finesse.… Read more
Kir Yianni, Florina (Macedonia, Greece) Assyrtiko “The North” 2024 ($24)
The justified popularity of Assyrtiko has meant that producers are growing it outside of its traditional home on Santorini. One of the potential problems when the grape is grown outside of Santorini is that the wine tends to lose some of its delightful punchiness.… Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($33)
Cloudy Bay is credited with catapulting Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc onto the world’s stage decades ago. Well, it turns out, they haven’t lost the touch over the ensuing decades. The bright and balanced 2022 has the typical tang associated with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc coupled with good depth, so it avoids the pitfall of being a one-trick pony.… Read more
Franco Serra, Langhe Nebbiolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2022 ($19, The Marchetti Company)
Full disclosure: I’m a sucker for Langhe Nebbiolo. For me, it conveys the alluring ying/yang of fruit and savory nuances of Nebbiolo without the need for bottle aging like Barolo or Barbaresco. It is often my go-to category at a restaurant.… Read more
Vara, American “VARAxLG” Brut Blanc de Blancs NV ($40)
Vara calls this their “Signature Series.” The LG in the label stands for Laurent Gruet, who is their sparkling winemaker and who put New Mexico on the map with the exceptional Gruet sparkling wines. Now, having tasted a range of Vara wines, I see why they highlight this one.… Read more
Tenuta Stella, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2023 ($27)
Despite its palate weight, Tenuta Stella Ribolla Gialla weighs in at a meager 12 percent stated alcohol, showing that you don’t need super ripe grapes to get richness. Savor this beauty gradually, because it opens as it sits in the glass.… Read more
Cavazza, Colli Berici DOC (Veneto, Italy) Cabernet Sauvignon “Tenuta Cicogna” 2021 ($60)
Unlike this easy-to-appreciate wine, the label needs some unraveling. Cavazza needs no introduction. They are a top producer in the Veneto, based at their estate, Tenuta Cicogna. Despite receiving DOC status more than 50 years ago, the Colli Berici, or the hills of Berici, is not terribly well-known.… Read more
Bodega Teso la Monja, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Romanico” 2023 ($20, NE Estates from Spain)
The Eguren family, of Rioja fame, founded Bodega Teso la Monja after they sold Numanthia-Termes to the luxury group Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) in 2008. They had founded Numanthia-Termes, a project that turned out to be critical in resurrecting the Toro DO (Denominación de Origen), with Jorge Ordóñez, the famed Spanish wine importer, about a decade earlier.… Read more
M. Chapoutier, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “La Bernardine” 2022 ($61)
Although the vast majority of Châteauneuf-du-Pape (95%) is red, a little white is made under that appellation. Chapoutier, a star Rhône producer, has bottled a delectable example. Straw yellow, it has good weight without heaviness. Wonderful acidity balances the stone fruit nuances in this robust white.… Read more
Maison Darragon, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France “Le Haut des Ruettes” 2023 ($12)
The joys and frustrations of Vouvray are the same. Here is an appellation that makes stunning wines from Chenin Blanc that range from dry to sweet. The challenge for the consumer is to know what style is in the bottle before pulling the cork.… Read more
Feudo Montoni, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) LagnusaNero d’Avola2022 ($24, Wilson Daniels)
The Sireci family owns Feudo Montoni, which was founded in 1469 and is one of Sicily’s oldest producers. They focus on autochthonous varieties, such as winsome Nero d’Avola, made from organic grapes. When done right, as this one exemplifies, Nero d’Avola displays an alluring combination of red and black fruit complemented by savory nuances.… Read more
Sealionne, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Halcyon” 2023 ($45)
A recent endeavor, Sealionne released their first wines only a few years ago. Well, it’s either beginner’s luck or they are on to something. Having tasted two of their Pinot Noir releases from the 2022 vintage, and now this stellar Chardonnay, I suspect it’s the latter.… Read more
H. Billiot Fils, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Rosé NV ($65, Skurnik)
H. Billiot, a family-run firm, farms about 12.5 acres in Ambonnay, a village classified as Grand Cru and located in the Montagne de Reims, an area well-known and prized for Pinot Noir. The village also claims Grand Cru status for Chardonnay, which is why this stunning rosé carries the Grand Cru designation.… Read more
Michel Vattan, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “O-P” 2022 ($27, DB Wine Selection)
Vattan, a family-run estate founded in the 1930s, is now run by Pascal and Nathalie Joulin, who took over from the founder’s son, Michel, in 2008. They opted to keep the family name on the label. The “O-P” designation indicates that the grapes come from vines planted on a combination of Oxfordian and Portlandian limestone, common to Sancerre and to Chablis as well.… Read more
Cleto Chiarli e Figli, Lambrusco di Sorbara Secco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “Vecchia Modena Premium” NV ($18, (Dalla Terra)
Lambrusco’s identification as a sweet sparkling red wine, is, thankfully, a thing of the past. We Americans are learning what the Italians have known for decades: dry Lambrusco is the perfect match for richly flavored dishes. We, in fact, opened this one to pair with foie gras over the holidays, and it worked.… Read more
Domaine Boris Champy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) Bignon 421 2023 ($47)
A native of Champagne, Boris Champy spent a decade in California at Dominus and another decade as the technical director at Beaune-based Maison Louis Latour. It’s an understatement to say he knows something about wine. He’s rightly championing the Hautes-Côtes as an appellation for making affordable and high-quality Burgundy.… Read more
Domaine Boris Champy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) Montagne 382 2023 ($47)
With his wines, Boris Champy shows the potential of wines from the Hautes-Côtes, the area just above and to west of the Côte d’Or. In the past, almost everyone dismissed wines from the Hautes Côtes because the elevation made it difficult to ripen the grapes.… Read more
Vara Winery and Distillery, American Zero Dosage Sparkling Wine NV ($27)

Laurent Gruet, the man who put New Mexico on the map as a place for top quality sparkling wines, is now the sparkling winemaker at Vara, which helps explain why the wines across the board are so good. Typically, in the Champagne method, at the end of the second fermentation, the winemaker adds a little wine and sugar, known as the dosage, to round the edges of the finished Champagne.… Read more
Jean-Marc Gilet, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV ($25)
Vouvray, known especially for dry and sweet still wines made from Chenin Blanc, also produces unique sparkling wines from that grape. This still family-owned estate has been making sparkling wine using the traditional method of fermentation — as in Champagne — since 1959.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) “Cabernet Franc di Vignamaggio” 2019 ($115)
Although at first glance, Cabernet Franc may not be associated with Tuscany, the grape has been grown there for over 500 years, since Catherine de’ Medici brought it back from France in the 16th century. Vignamaggio, an estate that makes marvelous Chianti Classico, also does wonders with Cabernet Franc as this organic example from the excellent 2019 vintages shows.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) “Merlot di Santa Maria” 2017 ($84)
Vignamaggio’s Merlot reminds us that this grape, in the right hands, can make complex and serious wines, not just up-front fruit bombs. A lovely tannic presence complements its plummy, dark fruit qualities. A hint of attractive bitterness in the finish is a telltale sign that this Merlot is serious.… Read more
Champalou, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Le Portail” 2022 ($48)
The joy of Vouvray is that the appellation makes a glorious array of dry and sweet wines – and everything in between – from Chenin Blanc. The frustration of Vouvray is not knowing which style will emerge before pulling the cork.… Read more
Volpaia, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($28)
Chianti Classico is one of my go-to wines when dining out because of the consistent quality of the category. I’m even more enthusiastic when I see a producer, like Volpaia, whose wines I always adore, on a wine list. So, it was an easy decision to select this 2022 when eating at Follia, an Italian place in New York’s Gramercy neighborhood.… Read more
Domaine D’Orfeuilles, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Silex d’Orfeuilles” 2023 ($32, Elliott Bay; Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
Wines from Vouvray, which can vary from dry to sweet, can be confusing for consumers because the level of sweetness is not always clear from the label. Here, the back label correctly identifies this winsome wine as dry. Made entirely from organically-grown Chenin Blanc, the ripe and round Silex d’Orfeuilles reflects the warmth of the vintage.… Read more
Vara Winery and Distillery, American “Silverhead” Brut NV ($25)
A bit of background explains why this, and other Vara sparkling wines, are so good. Laurent Gruet, raised in Champagne, had been making world-class sparkling wines in New Mexico for 25 years under the eponymous Gruet label before he sold the company in 2014.… Read more
Domaine Thevenot-Le Brun, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Clos du Vignon 2021 ($29)
The Hautes Côtes, as they are called, the area extending above the Côte d’Or, is making better and better wines thanks to climate change that allows the grapes at this higher altitude to achieve excellent ripeness. And since the appellations still have a distinctly down-market reputation, the prices remain reasonable — at least for Burgundy.… Read more
Jean-Paul and Benoît Droin, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vosgros 2022 ($50)
Droin, one of my favorite Chablis producers, made a spectacular Vosgros in 2022. This lesser known Premier Cru vineyard lies south of the town of Chablis itself, on the left side of Serein River. The vineyard has the best of both worlds, lying in a cool valley, yet mostly as a west-facing amphitheater that assures excellent ripening.… Read more
Vara Winery and Distillery, American Brut Rosé NV ($27)
This powerful sparkling wine, made predominantly from Pinot Noir (75%) dazzles with subtlety spiced strawberries supported by great acidity. Chardonnay adds balance and elegance — and keeps you coming back for another glass. Though labeled as rosé, its color is more gold than pinkish.… Read more
Campàro, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Coste di Vergne 2018 ($80, Oneonthehill)
In addition to their Domani, a Barolo made from a blend of grapes across the DOCG, Campàro also makes this one, Coste di Vergne, from a vineyard located in the commune of Barolo itself. Subdued fruitiness balances its dark, tar-like minerality while fine tannins provide structure to this youthful Barolo.… Read more
Campàro, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Boiolo MGA 2019 ($80, Oneonthehill)
This La Morra-based MGA, Boiolo, from Campàro brilliantly shows that the French have no monopoly on terroir. Despite being made with the same grape, Nebbiolo, as this producer’s wine from the Coste di Vergne growing site, Campàro’s Boiolo displays an entirely different face of Barolo, showing the importance of site.… Read more
M. Chapoutier, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Meysonniers” 2023 ($24, Folio)
Chapoutier, one of the top Rhône producers, consistently makes a winsome Crozes-Hermitage, from the generally flatter and larger appellation surrounding the exalted Hermitage hill. Their Syrah-based, mid-weight 2023 Les Meysonniers, made from organically grown grapes, displays fresh and lively red fruit notes overlain with peppery nuances.… Read more
Early Mountain, Virginia Petit Manseng 2023 ($65)
Petit Manseng, a grape known for its small berries — hence its name — is native in southwest France where its high acidity balances its ripeness, making it a fine choice for sweet wines. The grape is gaining appeal in Virginia, where Early Mountain transforms it into a dry wine.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Gherardino” 2021 ($36)
Both charming and robust, this Chianti Classico Riserva blends dark cherry-like fruit with alluring and balancing “not just fruit” nuances. A bit of Merlot in the blend adds to its heft without overpowering and detracting from its character. Though youthful, it’s fine to drink now because of its freshness, fine tannins, and complexity.… Read more
Campàro, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Domani” 2019 ($60, Oneonthehill)
The youthful and firm 2020 Domani seemingly combines the best of the 2018 and 2019 vintages of this wine. It has the weight and black fruitiness of the former harmonized with the elegance and prettiness of the latter. Like the 2019, this beautiful Barolo should be enjoyed now for those who enjoy its youthful energy and structure or cellared for a decade to see it all come together as this balanced young Barolo will.… Read more
Campàro, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Domani” 2018 ($60, Oneonthehill)
Campàro, a family-owned estate founded in 1980, has gradually and thoughtfully expanded. They started by selling wine in bulk, then purchased vineyards, became certified as organic, and they now have about 20-acres in and around the Barolo DOCG. Their Domani bottling comes from vineyards in the comunes of Grinzane Cavour, Barolo itself, and La Morra.… Read more
Sealionne Wines, Ribbon Ridge (Willamette Valley, Oregon) West Wine Vineyard Pinot Noir “Kilig” 2022 ($45)
Sealionne’s Kilig Pinot Noir shows more “oomph” compared to their more delicate Métier bottling. Spicy oak also adds heft and an extra dimension but at this stage is a touch dominating. Nonetheless, lovely, bright cherry-like fruitiness and a suave texture make it delightful to drink now.… Read more
Palmer & Co, Champagne (France) “La Réserve Nature” NV ($55, Quintessential)
This masterful Chardonnay-dominant blend contains a significant portion (a third) of reserve wine, which likely helps explain its stature. No dosage allows the clear fruit and mineral aspect to speak clearly. Even without a touch of sugar to round its edges — there are no edges to round — its impeccable balance and length make this a joy to drink.… Read more