Domaine Ganevat, Côtes du Jura (France) Chardonnay “Rouchamps” 2018

($350):  Full disclosure — I have not become enamored of the wines of the Jura because of their often-oxidized style.  This one could change that because it is fresh despite having undergone four years — you read that correctly — of fermentation.  Harvested in the fall of 2018, Domaine Ganevat bottled it in July 2022 without any added sulfur.  It is old-vine Chardonnay planted on the limestone/clay soil, which likely explains its depth, vigor, and energy.  Glossy and rich, it is a perfect choice for Comté, the cheese of the region.  But I would not limit your pairing possibilities just to that.  It would be an equally satisfying choice with a roast chicken.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2024