While $70 would not be considered an inexpensive wine for most people, this stunning white Burgundy is a bargain for what it delivers. Its lowly appellation – not even a specific village within the Côte Chalonnaise – highlights the failings of the French appellation system and reminds consumers to avoid being wedded to it. The vineyard, 1.02-hectare vineyard lying between Mercurey and Rully, had been abandoned in the mid-20th century. Valentin Cadel saw its potential because of its classic Burgundian mixture of limestone and clay soil and rejuvenated it by replanting Chardonnay in 2000. The 2022 offers a refined and subtle creaminess atop a stoney base. Weighty, without being heavy or overdone, it’s marvelous now with hearty seafood. Great vibrant acidity in the finish amplifies its considerable appeal.
94 Michael Apstein – July 15, 2026