The retail price of Guigal’s special bottlings of reds, the LaLa’s or Ex Voto, always contains three digits and the first one is often a five, which makes this Saint Joseph a bargain, not inexpensive mind you, but still a bargain. Saint-Joseph, situated directly across the Rhône River from Hermitage, is a humble appellation, relatively speaking. This wine, however, is by no means humble. Guigal obtained a 3.5-hectare plot in the center of Saint-Joseph about 25 years ago when they acquired the Domaine JL Grippat. The soil there is unique, at least for Saint-Joseph, because according to Philippe Guigal, who represents the third generation of this still family-owned and run estate, it contains a specific kind of granite, known as dents de cheval – literally horses’ teeth – so named because of the shape of the crystals. It’s the same kind of granite found on the Hermitage hill, which shouldn’t be surprising, since the Rhône River split the Hermitage rock, leaving 80 percent of the hill on the left bank in Hermitage and the remainder on the right bank in Saint-Joseph, millions of years ago. So, in essence, Guigal’s plot in Saint-Joseph has the same soil as that of Hermitage, just with a different exposure, which explains the majestic stature of their Vignes de l’Hospice. This, a more structured and tannic version of Saint-Joseph, displays the harmony and depth of Guigal’s special bottlings. Fragrant and mineral-filled, it’s an extraordinary Saint-Joseph. Its modest 13.5 percent stated alcohol belies its concentration and profundity. The effect of 30 months of aging in new French oak is suaveness, without a hint of oakiness. You would be excused if you mistook this Saint-Jospeh for a young Hermitage. It will benefit from a decade of bottle age.
96 Michael Apstein – May 27, 2026