The joy of Vouvray is that the appellation makes a glorious array of dry and sweet wines – and everything in between – from Chenin Blanc. The frustration of Vouvray is not knowing which style will emerge before pulling the cork. Champalou, one the leading producers in the appellation, prominently displays Sec on the label of Le Portail — and they mean it. The racy and graceful 2022 is, paradoxically, both minerally and also marked by a touch of tropical fruit. A tensile balance between the two makes you ask after every sip whether it’s minerally or fruity. Which means it’s a great choice with spiced food, or sushi, or roast pork, or a holiday ham, or by itself. You get the picture.
94 Michael Apstein – December 24, 2025