Poggio alle Gazze, Ornellaia’s dry white wine, initially debuted as a monovarietal Sauvignon Blanc when I tasted the 2008 during a visit to the estate in 2010. Since then, the winemaking team has kept the focus on Sauvignon Blanc but added proportions of Vermentino, Verdicchio, Viognier, and even Semillon in the rendition from 2022. Indeed, the 2022 contains the lowest proportion of Sauvignon Blanc (53 percent) ever. Unsurprisingly, the blend results in enormously complexity. There’s a hint, just a hint, of the bite of Sauvignon Blanc on a substantial base of exotic fruit-like touches and even a hint of white pepper in the finish. As it sits in the glass, this finely textured wine exhibits a panoply of nuances, so do not rush it.
95 Michael Apstein – February 18, 2026