I know I sound like a broken record when I recommend Chianti Classico, but the truth is that it’s an easy-to-like category that rarely disappoints. Here’s yet another example. This suavely textured and balanced beauty is a fine amalgam of dark fruitiness and complementary herbal savory notes.… Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Tuscany
Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) Villa di Capezzana 2021 ($70, Della Terra)
Carmignano, a small DOCG located just northwest of Florence, is the only DOCG that requires the blending of Cabernet (either Sauvignon or Franc) with Sangiovese. The practice originated with Catherine de’ Medici, who brought Cabernet Franc back from France in the 16th century and planted it in Carmignano where it was – as still is – called Uva Francesca (the French grape).… Read more
Il Marroneto, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) “Jacopo” 2022 ($89)
I know… $89 for a Rosso di Montalcino? Well, this is no ordinary Rosso. It’s a spectacular one. Marroneto, one of Brunello’s top producers, makes two Rosso, one labeled Ignaccio, and this one, Jacopo, made from a selection of their best grapes.… Read more
Boscarelli, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Nocio” 2021 ($150)
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has always lagged behind Brunello and Chianti Classico in recognition. One taste of this wine should change that, at least for you. There’s no doubt that Boscarelli is one of Vino Nobile’s top producers, and Il Nocio is their top wine.… Read more
Castello di Radda, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2023 ($20)
The 2023 vintage, a hot one in Tuscany, had to potential to produce rather robust examples of Chianti Classico. Castello di Radda’s is certainly ripe and juicy, yet not overdone or heavy. Savory nuances and great freshness from the classic Tuscan acidity and Radda’s elevated vineyards balance the plum-like fruitiness.… Read more
Isole e Olena, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2023 ($37)
Isole e Olena consistently produces a stylish Chianti Classico regardless of what Mother Nature throws at them. Due to heat, 2023 was a difficult year, but you wouldn’t know it from tasting this wine, which is a blend of mostly Sangiovese and a little Canaiolo.… Read more
Istine, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2023 ($38)
Istine, a small highly regarded family-owned Chianti Classico producer, has a familiar winegrowing history. The Fronti family started an agricultural supply business, used their knowledge of the terrain to acquire vineyards, started selling wine in bulk, and then, in 2009, started bottling their own wine.… Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ghiaie della Furba” 2022 ($64, Dalla Terra)
The late Ugo Contini Bonacossi, who was responsible for much of the renown of Tenuta di Capezzana, the family’s estate and the leading one in Carmignano, was always intrigued by the red wines from Bordeaux. So, in 1968, he planted Cabernet Sauvignon in pebbly soil (ghiaie, in Italian) along the Furba stream.… Read more
Fattoria Le Pupille, Morellino di Scansano DOCG Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2023 ($30)
Scansano, located in the Maremma, in southwestern Tuscany, is yet another Tuscan village using the Sangiovese grape, here known as Morellino, for its wines. Fattoria Le Pupille, one of the top and most reliable producers of this DOCG, has done a great job with their juicy 2023, a “difficult” vintage known for many overblown wines.… Read more
Melini, Chianti Superiore DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “San Lorenzo” 2024 ($11)
The Chianti DOCG zone, a large area in Tuscany, has many subzones, like Chianti Classico and Chianti Rùfina, among many others. Wines labeled simply Chianti come from anywhere within the zone, can be released after only six months or so of aging, and should be fresh and juicy.… Read more
Borgo Salcetino, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2021 ($23)
I’ve said it before, but it is certainly worth repeating. Chianti Classico remains a “go-to” category when a consumer is faced with the choices on a restaurant’s wine list or at a retail store. I’m especially enthusiastic about the ‘21s from Chianti Classico because they have an energy that makes them a good match for the oil- and butter-based dishes coming from the Italian kitchen.… Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2023 ($18, Dalla Terra)
Carmignano, a small but highly regarded DOCG region (there are only about 20 producers) located northwest of Florence is the only one in Tuscany to require Cabernet in the blend with Sangiovese. Initially, Cabernet Franc was the grape of choice because that’s what Catherine de’ Medici had brought back from France in 16th century.… Read more
La Sala del Torriano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($24)
Here is an example of why Chianti Classico remains a “go-to” category whether faced with a restaurant’s wine list or when at a retail store. This mid-weight red displays a harmonious balance between fresh red fruit nuances and herbal savory ones.… Read more
Conti Costanti, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2021 ($55)
Brunello di Montalcino from Conti Costanti, a top producer there, will run over a hundred dollars at release and take a decade plus of bottle age to show its true stature. But you can get a glimpse of this producer’s talents with their stately Rosso di Montalcino.… Read more
Ornellaia, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia” 2022 ($76)
Poggio alle Gazze, Ornellaia’s dry white wine, initially debuted as a monovarietal Sauvignon Blanc when I tasted the 2008 during a visit to the estate in 2010. Since then, the winemaking team has kept the focus on Sauvignon Blanc but added proportions of Vermentino, Verdicchio, Viognier, and even Semillon in the rendition from 2022.… Read more
Frescobaldi, Chianti DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Castiglioni” 2024 ($15, Vintus)
If there is a more enjoyable and versatile red wine at this price, please, someone tell me. The Frescobaldi family, a Tuscan legend, has been making wine for 700 years. To me, the most impressive aspect of the Frescobaldi portfolio is the quality of their wines across the board, from Masseto, with its near thousand-dollar price tag, to this modestly priced gem.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) “Cabernet Franc di Vignamaggio” 2019 ($115)
Although at first glance, Cabernet Franc may not be associated with Tuscany, the grape has been grown there for over 500 years, since Catherine de’ Medici brought it back from France in the 16th century. Vignamaggio, an estate that makes marvelous Chianti Classico, also does wonders with Cabernet Franc as this organic example from the excellent 2019 vintages shows.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) “Merlot di Santa Maria” 2017 ($84)
Vignamaggio’s Merlot reminds us that this grape, in the right hands, can make complex and serious wines, not just up-front fruit bombs. A lovely tannic presence complements its plummy, dark fruit qualities. A hint of attractive bitterness in the finish is a telltale sign that this Merlot is serious.… Read more
Volpaia, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($28)
Chianti Classico is one of my go-to wines when dining out because of the consistent quality of the category. I’m even more enthusiastic when I see a producer, like Volpaia, whose wines I always adore, on a wine list. So, it was an easy decision to select this 2022 when eating at Follia, an Italian place in New York’s Gramercy neighborhood.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Gherardino” 2021 ($36)
Both charming and robust, this Chianti Classico Riserva blends dark cherry-like fruit with alluring and balancing “not just fruit” nuances. A bit of Merlot in the blend adds to its heft without overpowering and detracting from its character. Though youthful, it’s fine to drink now because of its freshness, fine tannins, and complexity.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese Di Vitigliano 2016 ($84)
A heavy bottle accurately predicts a full-bodied wine, weighing in at a stated 14.5 percent alcohol. This broad and deep style of Sangiovese delivers a dark, almost tarry mineral aspect atop a dark black cherry base. At almost a decade of age, the tannins are still apparent yet not slightly intrusive.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Terre di Prenzano” 2021 ($45)
The location of the Sangiovese vineyards used for Vignamaggio’s Prenzano sit at the estate’s highest elevation in Greve, which helps explain the vivacity of this gorgeous 2021 Chianti Classico. Bright and fresh, this Chianti Classico delivers plenty of red cherry-like fruitiness accompanied by good depth, without any heaviness.… Read more
Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Monna Lisa” 2017 ($74)
The 2017 vintage in Chianti Classico was generally abysmal. Be warned that when you generalize about a vintage, you can miss the pearls, like Vignamaggio’s 2017 Gran Selezione. Remember, Gran Selezione sits at the apex of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid above Reserva.… Read more
Cecchi, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Storia di Famiglia” 2023 ($23, Terlato)
Cecchi, a top Tuscan producer, fashioned this beefier style of Chianti Classico. Fine tannins make it easy to enjoy its combination of black fruit intertwined with subtle earthiness now. Enlivening acidity keeps it fresh throughout a meal. It is an easy choice for anything from burgers to grilled steak.… Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2021 ($24, Vintus)
Even a quick look at the label tells you that you have a winner with this wine. Frescobaldi is one of Italy’s top producers. Chianti Classico is as reliable a DOCG as you will find. And 2021 produced racy and balanced wines in throughout Tuscany.… Read more
San Felice, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio Rosso” 2020 ($85, Total Beverage Solutions)

New regulations for Gran Selezione, Chianti Classico’s top tier, permit the producer to put the Chianti Classico subzone on the label (in this case, Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southernmost subzone which typically produces the ripest fruit of the Chianti Classico districts). San Felice, one of Tuscany’s top producers, has fashioned a ripe wine with a wonderfully paradoxical restraint and complexity.… Read more
Chiappini, Bolgheri Rosso DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Ferruggini” 2023 ($32)
Bolgheri, a DOC on the Tuscan coast, is known for high quality red blends usually from Bordeaux varieties. Chiappini’s artful blend is a bit atypical because it contains Sangiovese and Syrah, two varieties not often seen in this part of Tuscany, along with Cabernet Sauvignon.… Read more
Chiappini, Bolgheri Rosso DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Felciaino” 2023 ($45)
This harmonious Bolgheri Rosso is a typical blend of the Bordeaux grapes for which the DOC is known, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. It conveys mid-weight flavors of dark fruit, earthy notes, and a touch of minerals, all enrobed in graceful tannins and enlivened by uplifting Tuscan acidity.… Read more
Chiappini, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Guado de’Gemoli” 2022 ($90)
Chiappini’s Guado de’Gemoli comes in a heavier bottle compared to their other wines, which means they must think it’s a “more important” one. One taste confirms that—it’s just a better wine. Though it’s the same blend of grapes as their brilliant Felciaino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, the back label tells you that it’s a selection from their best vineyards and aged in French oak for a longer time.… Read more
Michele Satta, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Piastraia” 2022 ($53)
Michele Satta was one of the founders of the Bolgheri DOC, so the estate is no newcomer to the area. That said, Satta’s blend is rare for the region because it includes a bit of Sangiovese, typically about ten percent. Giacomo, Michele’s son who took over running the estate in 2019, believes Sangiovese adds “freshness” to the wines.… Read more
Tenuta Luce, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Luce” 2022 ($100, Vintus)
There are Super Tuscans — and then there are true Super Tuscans. Luce, an impeccable blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, falls squarely into the latter category. It delivers refined power, with the firmness and structure of Sangiovese balancing the more boisterous and juicier Merlot component.… Read more
Marchesi Frescobaldi Castello Pomino, Pomino Bianco Riserva DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Benefizio” 2022 ($45, Vintus)
Cosimo de’ Medici included Pomino, along with what is now Chianti Classico, Carmignano, and Val d’Arno di Sopra, in his 1716 edict defining areas capable of producing outstanding wine. Whether Chardonnay was planted in Pomino at that time is not known.… Read more
Tenuta Campo Maccione, Maremma Toscana Vermentino DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2024 ($22)
The talented Chianti Classico producer, Famiglia Zingarelli of Rocca delle Macie, owns the Campo Maccione estate. Unsurprisingly, they fashioned a lovely, easy going Vermentino from organic grapes in 2024. Saline-tinged acidity keeps it bright throughout a meal. It is an excellent choice for simple seafood this summer.… Read more
Tenuta Sassoregale, Maremma Toscana Vermentino DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2024 ($18)
The 2024 Vermentino from Tenuta Sassoregale, an estate that is part of the Santa Margherita group, blossoms in the glass, delivering subtle and engaging citrus notes accented by a touch of saline-like acidity.
90 Michael Apstein – April 30, 2025… Read more
Collemassari, Maremma Toscana Vermentino DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Melacce” 2024 ($19)
The famed Montecucco producer, Collemassari, produced a creamy, gentle bottling of Vermentino from organic grapes in 2024. Weighing in at a modest 13 percent stated-alcohol, this Vermentino still invigorates the palate with mouth-cleansing acidity and magnifies its appeal. It is another great choice for summer sipping, either alone or with grilled fish.… Read more
Castello di Volpaia, Maremma Toscana Vermentino DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Prelius” 2024 ($23)
It is no surprise that Castello di Volpaia, a top Tuscan producer based in Radda, fashioned a crowd-pleasing 2024 Vermentino. Their Vermentino, Prelius, has always been a hit with me. The 2024 is no exception. Made from organic grapes, it combines a touch of creaminess with an attractive and subtle white pepper-like spiciness.… Read more
Tuscan Vermentino’s Rise to Excellence

Many wine journalists and sommeliers look down their collective noses at Tuscan Vermentino. They believe that the only “real” Vermentino comes from just a few specific locations: Sardinia (Vermentino di Sardegna, or the even more exalted Vermentino di Gallura), Corsica, or Liguria (where the grape is known as Pigato, most notably in Coli di Luni DOC).… Read more
Carpineto, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2019 ($26)
Wines like this one help explain the justified popularity of Chianti Classico. At five years of age, Carpineto’s Riserva delivers a harmonious combination of red and black fruits accented by spicy notes. It has depth without heaviness. Suave tannins lend support while providing a suave texture.… Read more
San Felice, Bolgheri Bianco DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Bell’aja” 2023 ($32, Total Beverage Solution)
It turns out that Bolgheri, well known for top red wines, also makes noteworthy whites like this one. Its captivating aromatics indicate that Vermentino is the predominant variety. Sometimes said to be a grape that does best when “it sees the sea,” Vermentino is well suited to growing on the Tuscan coast, where Bolgheri is located.… Read more
San Felice, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Vigorello” 2021 ($78, Total Beverage Solution)
San Felice, a top Tuscan producer, incorporates Pugnitello, a traditional Tuscan grape, into their Super Tuscan blend with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. Wonderfully aromatic, rich dark fruit and minerals flavors emerge from this bold wine. Pleasing and invigorating acidity provides an ideal counterbalance to its rich profile.… Read more
Valdipiatta, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Tuscany, Italy) 2020 ($36)
The perfume that emanates from the glass exemplifies why Valdipiatta is a leading producer of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Their mid-weight and elegant 2019 Vino Nobile highlights the firm and minerally side of Sangiovese grown in Montepulciano. Its multifaceted profile shines because it is not heavy or overdone.… Read more
Valdipiatta, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigna d’Alfiero 2019 ($45)
Valdipiatta considers Vigna d’Alfiero their most prized vineyard with a perfect balance of soils that impart depth and elegance to the wine. After tasting the wine, it’s impossible to argue with them! Enthralling floral and mineral aromatics like Valdipiatti’s normal Vino Nobile captivate.… Read more
Sette Ponte, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Oreno” 2022 ($108, Kobrand)
Sette Ponte has modified the viticulture, winemaking, and the composition of Oreno, their Bordeaux blend. The result—a magnificent wine. Amedeo Moretti Cuseri, Sette Ponte’s CEO, explains, “We want the wine to have more finesse.” Having tasted a twenty-year vertical of Oreno last year, I can affirm that they have succeeded admirably with the 2022.… Read more
Piaggi, Carmignano Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($52)
Piaggi, another of the leading producers of Carmignano, has made a positively brilliant 2022 Riserva. The legal definition of Riserva is additional aging prior to release. Practically, however, Riserva in Carmignano, and most other DOCGs, indicates a better wine made with better grapes that will improve with additional aging.… Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2023 ($17 Dalla Terra)
Barco Reale di Carmignano fits the Italian “rosso” category, as in Rosso di Montalcino, a fruit-forward rendition of a structured age-worthy wine. Capezzana, a leading producer in Carmignano, has fashioned a fragrant and refined one, filled with red cherries counterbalanced by earthy savory notes.… Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2015 ($67, Dalla Terra)
Capezzana opts to hold back several thousands of bottles that they then release at a decade of age because they know that Carmignano, and not even the Riserva, needs plenty of time to show its complexity. Of course, they’re correct. From a recent tasting of their Villa di Capezzana that showed wines back to their first vintage, the 1925, it was abundantly clear that Carmignano, like other great wines, needs time to develop and show their stuff.… Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Barco Reale di Carmignano Rosato DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Vin Ruspo” 2024 ($23, Dalla Terra)
Vin Ruspo is, for lack of a better word, dialect for “stolen wine.” It originated during the sharecropping era in Tuscany. At the end of the day, the farmer would hold the last barrel of harvested grapes overnight before taking them to the landowner’s winery the next morning.… Read more
Fabrizio Pratesi, Carmignano Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Circo Rosso” 2021 ($80)
Carmignano requires the inclusion of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, in the blend with Sangiovese, producing a substantial and structured young wine, capable of virtually unrivalled development with proper aging. Well, Fabrizio Pratesi’s 2021 Carmignano Riserva can serve as “Exhibit A.”… Read more
Lamole di Lamole, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Duelame” 2022 ($28)
Regulators carved Lamole, the smallest of Chianti Classico’s UGAs (unità geografica aggiuntiva, additional geographic units) out of Greve because its high altitude and rock-laden soil has the potential to make unique and distinctive wines. Lamole di Lamole, by far the largest producer in the UGA with more than one-third of the total acreage, has done just that with their Duelame Chianti Classico.… Read more
Lamole di Lamole, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Lareale 2021 ($35)
A step up from “Duelame” bottlling is Lamole di Lamole’s pure Sangiovese Riserva. From a single vineyard that sits at almost at the pinnacle of elevation at which Sangiovese can ripen (400 to 500 meters above sea level), Lareale focuses on minerality and firmness rather than fruitiness, though enticing black cherry notes are noticeable in the background.… Read more