The way to find value in Burgundy these days is to look for wines from down-market appellations made by great producers. This one fits the bill perfectly. Domaine Geantet-Pansiot, a top producer based in Gevrey-Chambertin, makes a stunning array of wines from the village and Chambolle-Musigny. The Hautes Côtes (as the Hautes Côtes de Nuits and the Hautes Côtes de Beaune are collectively known) is perhaps the best place to find reasonably priced Burgundies today. The Hautes Côtes comprise vineyards at higher elevations, above the Côte d’Or, where, prior to climate change it was difficult to ripen the grapes, resulting in coarse wines. Now, however, as one producer told me, “We can make wine with ripe grapes.” This delectable one combines red fruitiness, an engaging briary quality, and finesse that dispels the old reputation of the appellation. Enjoyable now, it is a bargain for what it delivers.
91 Michael Apstein – April 15, 2026