Donnafugata, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Sul Vulcano” 2021 ($36, Folio Fine Wine Partners)

Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s top producers, once again succeeds brilliantly with this intriguing light to mid-weight red. It delivers far more punch than its weight suggests. Although a hint of cherry-like fruit is apparent, the focus here is on its savory aspects of lava-like minerals and spice. The seamless combination of the two captivates the palate. With its mild, unobtrusive tannins, this bright beauty would be ideal for current consumption with hearty seafood bathed in a tomato sauce or other robust fare. 92 Michael Apstein – Aug 20, 2025