It is no wonder that this NV Champagne sings. The grapes for this Blanc de Blancs – curiously there is no indication of that on the label – come exclusively from Grand Cru villages on the Côtes de Blanc, namely, Avize, Oger and Cramant (and from vines averaging 40 years in age). Impressively, the base wine comprises only a third of the current vintage, while reserve wines from the previous three vintages are used in equal measure. The straight spine of an Extra Brut buttresses its weight. This is the kind of Champagne to drink with food. Its cutting edginess turned out to be good foil for Korean fried chicken.
95 Michael Apstein – August 26, 2026