With his wines, Boris Champy shows the potential of wines from the Hautes-Côtes, the area just above and to west of the Côte d’Or. In the past, almost everyone dismissed wines from the Hautes Côtes because the elevation made it difficult to ripen the grapes. The wines often had an unpleasant rusticity to them. But now, the altitude is an asset and Champy is taking full advantage of it. He names his wines by the altitude of the vineyard measured in meters above sea level. This Montagne 382 delivers wonderful acidity, especially for a 2023, that balance this rich yet finesse-filled Chardonnay. He added some lees back during the aging that helps explains the wine’s creaminess. There’s no rusticity of the past in this suave white Burgundy!
94 Michael Apstein – December 31, 2025