Barbera d’Alba is often my go-to wine when dining at Italian restaurants. And G. D. Vajra is as talented and consistent producer as you are likely to fine. So, when the two converged on a wine list at the exceptional Il Capriccio outside of Boston, I jumped. Vajra, still family owned and run, makes an exceptional array of Barolo and other Piedmont wines, like this Barbera. Their lively 2022 was ripe, but not too much so, and the fruit is offset by a few savory notes and the energy for which Barbera is known. With consumers rightly complaining about the exorbitant mark up on restaurant wines, this Barbera, at $80 on the restaurant list, was a welcome respite. Jan Novak, Il Capriccio’s sommelier, deserves praise for not only what is on the list, but also for how they are priced.
92 Michael Apstein – August 5, 2026