Montmains is what the Chablisiens refer to as a “flag bearing” Premier Cru vineyard. That means that the less well-known Forêts and Butteaux, neighboring Premier Cru vineyards located on the same hill, can use Montmains, the more well-known name, rather than their own. Since Louis Michel makes, bottles, and labels Chablis from both Forêts and Butteaux as well, his Montmains comes the “true” Montmains, the easternmost section of the hill. This beautifully framed 2022 Montmains delivers a smokey power supported by crisp mineral-tinged acidity. More clout than their elegant and lacey Vaillons, it shows the diversity of site in Chablis. As the saying goes, different strokes for different folks. I have both in my cellar. I suggest you do the same.
95 Michael Apstein – February 4, 2026