Apstein on Wine

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has Finally Found Itself with the 2021 Vintage

March 19, 2025 1:25 pm

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a Tuscan Sangiovese-based DOCG, just like Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, has never had the popularity of those other two areas. The 2021 vintage should change that.

Confusion surrounding the name might explain part of Vino Nobile’s underappreciated status. Is Montepulciano a town or a grape? Well, it turns out that it’s both the name of a gorgeous, must-visit historic hill town and of a down-market, workhorse grape rarely associated with great wine. And to make matters worse, consumers frequently—if not always—need to be reminded that Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, the name notwithstanding, is made from the Sangiovese grape, not the Montepulciano grape. There’s a movement afoot to change its name to simply Vino Nobile, but the local residents’ sciovinismo (chauvinism) potentially stands in the way.

Confusion about the name is not the only reason of Vino Nobile’s under-the-radar status. Sangiovese’s tannins have often interfered with enjoyment and assessment of the wines when young.

Year after year, in February during the annual Anteprime di Toscana—an event enabling journalists and others to taste the newly released wines—I dutifully schlep up the narrow, winding roads to the medieval fortress in the hill town of Montepulciano to taste 40-plus examples of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. And year after year, I am disappointed by how angular and hard the wines turn out to be. Although it’s rare to want to embrace young wines from prestigious areas for current drinking, it was still difficult to see the promise that was hidden under drying and aggressive tannins in these youthful renditions of Vino Nobile. Sure, some top producers, like Boscarelli, Dei, and Poliziano, to name just three, always seemed to get it right. But they stood out because they were in the minority. Thankfully, the 2021 vintage has dramatically changed the face of Vino Nobile and has put this gem of a DOCG on its way to actualizing its potentially broader appeal.

Vino Nobile will never be an opulent wine. Nor should it be. Sangiovese typically makes structured, not sumptuous wines. Vino Nobile’s stature emanates from an elegant combination of cherry-like fruitiness and minerality cloaked in a firm, but not necessarily hard, robe of tannins. That said, many of the 2021s exhibited an engaging fleshiness atop their firmness. I rarely found drying or astringent tannins in the 2021s that I tasted. They are, by and large, solid and structured wines with enlivening acidity. Though there are plenty of consumers who adore the brightness and firmness of young Vino Nobile, I find that, even with the fleshiness of many of the 2021s, Vino Nobile wines benefit from at least five years of bottle aging. Even with proper bottle aging, Vino Nobile retains the structure in my experience. These reds are perfect for, and indeed, require red meat or hearty chicken dishes. They are wines for wintertime fare—think lamb shanks—or for grilled meats in the summer.

For those seeking more immediate enjoyment, look for Rosso di Montepulciano. Just as other red DOCGs that produce structured, age-worthy wines have a “rosso” (think Brunello’s Rosso di Montalcino), Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has a more user-friendly, more immediately accessible category, Rosso di Montepulciano. Typically made from younger grapes or those from less well-situated vineyards, Rosso di Montepulciano are aged for a shorter period and are ready to drink upon release. I recently tasted two mid-weight 2023s, one from Le Bèrne and one from Boscarelli, with salumi followed by grilled, highly seasoned pork chops. Mild tannins supporting bright and crunchy red berry fruit showed the “drink-now” virtue of the category and complemented the food perfectly.

The 2021 vintage also heralds the appearance on the label of a specific Pieve, the name of one of 12 subregions within Vino Nobile that have stricter production regulations. The delineation of Pieve in Vino Nobile comports with trends throughout Italy to identify unique and smaller areas within larger DOCG zones. It happened recently in Chianti Classico with the appearance of UGAs on the label of Gran Selezione and in Barolo with MGAs.

Michaela Morris, an authority on Italian wines, believes that the Pieve project has forced producers to focus on terroir and quality and explains, at least in part, the transformation of the Vino Nobile wines. While that is certainly true, the potential downside for consumers is yet another geographic area to remember. Although the goal of establishing Pieve is to distinguish wines from one part of the DOCG from another, the major message consumers should come away with is that Pieve should represent a higher quality of wine.

Maria Stella Poliziano, representing the third generation of that family estate, explains that the Pieve’s focus on terroir has meant less extraction during winemaking and less oak influence during aging to allow the vineyard’s voice to be heard. She adds that climate change resulting in warmer vintages has forced winemakers to experiment and try new techniques, which she thinks has resulted in smoother, less aggressive tannins earlier in the evolution of the wines.

Echoing Maria Stella about the winemaking, Alberto de Roma, a representative of Boscarelli, notes that with a hot vintage like 2021 they were very careful to, as he put it, “be gentle to the grapes” during fermentation. He believes that another explanation for the change in style comes from a generational change, “Look around this room. Look at how many young winemakers are here.” He explains, “They travel and learn how things are done elsewhere,” and meet every few weeks to “open bottles” and compare notes.

Whatever the reasons, and undoubtedly, it’s a combination of reasons, the results are clear. The 2021 Vino Nobile are stellar wines. Here are brief notes on a dozen of my favorites. Production typically is small, so many of these wines will be available in limited markets. If they’re not in yours, ask your local wine retailer for recommendations.

The prices of these beauties reflect their underappreciated status. Three-quarters of my recommended wines retail for $35 or less and the most expensive one is $43, based on the best information available to me.

Le Bèrne, a family-run estate, hit the bull’s eye with their aromatic and enticing 2021, combining a darker fruit profile with minerals and fine tannins. A plethora of flavors slowly emerge as it sits in the glass, making it a delight to savor now. (95 points; $32 for the 2020).

The bright and alluring 2021 Vino Nobile from Fattoria Svetoni is emblematic of the vintage with firm, not astringent, tannins and a dazzling combination of dark fruitiness, minerality, accented by a hint of bitterness in the finish. (95 points; $24 for the 2020).

Antinori’s plummy 2021 La Braccesca balances ripeness with a firm texture. Attractive spice adds an extra dimension to this mineral-infused wine. It also grows in the glass, so don’t rush it. (94 points; $30).

Poliziano turned out a full, yet stylish, 2021, with black cherry-like fruit, minerals and firm, fine tannins. This bright and spicy Vino Nobile marries charm and structure with an appealing hint of bitterness in the lengthy finish. (95 points; $29).

The 2021 Signore del Grippo is only Vannutelli’s second commercial vintage. And what a success! Edoardo Maria Vannutelli took over the family property in 2015 and is in the process of converting to organic viticulture. The 2021 Vino Nobile leads with lovely aromatics and follows with a blissful combination of subtle tarry minerals and spice combined with bright cherry-like fruitiness. Polished tannins wrap it all together. Sadly, it is not yet represented in the U.S., so…importers take notice! (93 points).

Unsurprisingly, Boscarelli produced a stellar 2021 Vino Nobile, an impeccably balanced and elegant wine displaying the ying/yang combination of elusive cherry-like fruitiness and minerality. Fine tannins add the requisite firmness yet contribute to its suave texture. It expands in the glass, so be sure to savor it to appreciate its magic. (94 points; $39).

Firmness and uplifting acidity balance the darker, black cherry succulent fruitiness of Fattoria del Cerro’s stunning “Silìneo” bottling. Fine tannins and a long and refined finish add to its appeal. Give it a couple of years to come together. (95 points; $21 for the 2020).

Charming aromatics and a fine texture help make Tiberini’s elegant 2021 Vino Nobile, “Podere Le Caggiole” a winner. Fragrant red cherry notes atop a firm, yet not hard, base provide harmony. A hint of spice in the uplifting finish amplifies its appeal. (94 points; $35 for the 2018).

Cantina Chiacchiera’s combines ripe, plummy fruitiness with a firm base to make an elegant rich 2021 Vino Nobile. A touch of peppery accents gives it an enticing ying/yang quality. Balanced and long, it’s a delight. (94 points; $43).

Put Crociani’s 2021 in the lush dark fruit category. A snappy structure keeps its fleshiness in balance. Very fine tannins and a paradoxical delicacy lend elegance to this stunning Vino Nobile. (93 points; $23 for the 2020).

A hint of peppery-like spice balances the succulent dark fruit character of 2021 Tenuta Trerose’s “Santa Caterina” bottling. Bright, Tuscan acidity in the finish completes the package nicely. (93 points; $43 for the 2020).

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano, founded in 1937, making it Tuscany’s oldest cooperative winery, has about 400 members. Although many people disparage co-ops, I find the best ones, like Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano, draw enormous strength from having access to members’ old vines and their ability to make wines in a variety of quality and prices categories. Their Vino Nobile bottled under the “Redi” label is their top wine and deserves praise for its fleshy dark plum-like fruitiness offset by minerality, a hint of pepper-like spice, and a firm, but not hard, base. (93 points; $33 for the 2018).

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E-mail me your thoughts about Vino Nobile at [email protected] and follow me on Instagram @MichaelApstein

March 19, 2025

A tribute to Peter M.F. Sichel

March 4, 2025 3:29 pm

The whole world, and not merely the wine world, lost a giant this month when Peter M.F. Sichel died peacefully at his home in Manhattan at the age of 102 and-a-half.

Peter’s life story is well-known. Born into a family of wine merchants—his grandfather founded H. Sichel Söhne in 1857—he and his family became refugees, escaping the tyranny of Nazi Germany. Soon after reaching America, he joined the army and was recruited into the OSS (Office of Special Services, the celebrated World War II forerunner of the CIA) because of his fluency in German, English and French.

After the war, he was active in the CIA’s Berlin office, where he ran a large and critically important counter-intelligence group. Later he headed the CIA office in Hong Kong. For his exemplary service to the Nation, he was awarded the Distinguished Intelligence Medal, one of the agency’s highest awards. Sichel figured prominently in Scott Anderson’s highly acclaimed book about the U.S. intelligence service, The Quiet Americans (Doubleday, 2020).

His career in the wine trade was legendary. After he left the CIA—he disagreed with some of their tactics—he returned to the family business, introducing Americans to Blue Nun, which at one point was the most widely imported wine on the U.S. market. For years, Sichel was also the managing director of the prominent Bordeaux négociant, Maison Sichel. The family still has a controlling interest in famed Château Palmer, classified as a third growth in the Médoc Classification of 1855. Peter was also the principal owner of another Bordeaux property, Château Forcas Hosten in Listrac until Laurent and Renaud Mommeja, owners of Hermès, purchased it in 2006. For his many years of service to the wine trade, The Wine Spectator awarded Peter its Distinguished Service Award in 1989.

But despite all those accomplishments, Peter’s willingness to help others defined him. It set him apart. It was his central trait, his core principle. His default. Something that was ingrained in him, perhaps from the help he and his family received escaping Nazi Germany. Or perhaps it was simply a part of the Sichel family DNA. As Peter recounted in his autobiography, with the onset of the economic crises of 1929, his mother always made him two sandwiches for the 10 o’clock snack at grade school, teaching him to share one with those whose who needed it.

Throughout the long and cold winters of the Depression years, she welcomed and fed the poor by setting up a table and chairs on the back porch. Or maybe he got it from his father, whom he described as, “Helpful whenever possible.” Maybe he learned it from his mothers’ sisters, all of whom he described as, “Motivated by a rare sense of decency.” And his willingness to always go the extra mile may have come from, as he puts it, “A strong Jewish community structure—born through pogroms and discrimination—through which those of the Jewish faith could help each other.”

That rare and all too-elusive trait of always wanting to lend a hand is what made Peter so special. As word of his death spreads, the anecdotes that people have shared do not involve his great success as a wine merchant or as a spy. They centre around his kindness and generosity with his time. As Maryann Dolzadalli, Peter’s personal assistant, notes, “After 25 years with Peter I have seen people from all corners of the world contact him for help of some kind or other.” She adds, “He never turned them away.”

Jean-Louis Carbonnier, the former U.S. representative of The Champagne Bureau, later of Château Palmer, and now the U.S. representative for Château Talbot, describes Peter as “The number one networker,” and explains that Peter so often facilitated deals and relationships, not for his own profit, but for altruism. He was not egotistic and never asked for anything in return. Even after the popularity of Blue Nun faded, adds Jean-Louis, “I’ve never heard him sound bitter about anything.”

Charles Curtis, MW, Burgundy correspondent for Decanter and founder of the fine wine advisory company, WineAlpha, remembers Peter as “an invaluable mentor to me in my career,” and recounts how Peter helped arrange a trip to Bordeaux for him, the experience of which he says played a large part in his obtaining his MW.

Michael Quinttus, the founder of Vintus, a leading U.S. importer, emphasizes, “Peter literally opened the door for me to enter the wine business.” He recalls, how he met Peter in the 1980s, when, as a lawyer, he represented a German company promoting German wine in the U.S. Michael soon shared his passion about wine with Peter and explored the possibility of leaving law to enter the wine trade.

Michael recalls that Peter was a great sounding board, “taking me under his wing.” Michael recounts how Peter told him, “I will be your Rabbi.” Peter sent a letter to Charles Mueller, then the head of Kobrand, a major U.S. wine importer, and a competitor of Schieffelin and Somerset who were importing Peter’s Blue Nun, suggesting they talk with Michael. They did and they eventually hired him. Michael insists, “Peter made it happen.”

At the heart of this story is Peter’s altruism. He was helping Michael because that was Peter’s character.

Years later, Peter suggested to Michael that he should speak with Alex Michas, the son of a friend of Peter’s who was interested in entering the wine trade. As Michael tells it, Peter wanted him to point out the stumbling blocks and dissuade him. Michael saw what a gem Alex was, hired him and now, Alex is the President of Vintus. Here’s another of many examples of how Peter put people together—a deal maker without taking a cut.

To me, Peter’s ever-present smile and how-can-I-help character are his defining features. The world needs more people like him, especially now.

He will be missed.

Originally published in Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux, March 4, 2025, with huge thanks to John Anderson (no relation to Scott), also a good friend of Peter’s, for his editorial prowess.

Chablis: Burgundy’s Holdout Source for Great Whites at Reasonable Prices

February 12, 2025 11:39 am

Chablis, although a part of Burgundy, has not yet received the memo that the wines should be priced in the stratosphere like their more southern cousins in the Côte d’Or. Except for a few producers, the wines from Chablis remain the great source for bargains in the category of white Burgundy. So, run to your local wine retailer or log into their website and stock up on the 2022s, which are still on the market.

The Chablis appellation, named after an eponymous village, is the northern-most part of Burgundy, lying halfway between Paris and the Côte d’Or. Only white wine is permitted and only from the Chardonnay grape. Chablis’ unique expression of Chardonnay and its claim to fame come from its Kimmeridgian soil, a combination of limestone and clay like the rest of Burgundy, that, in addition, contains fossils of marine organisms, remnants of the area’s underwater position millions of years ago. Producers and wine experts alike insist that the eons of decomposed marine shells embedded in the Kimmeridgian soil impart a particular mineral character, a flintiness, to the wines.

The regional practice of naming wines by appellation rather than the Chardonnay grape of which they are composed can be confusing for some consumers, but the hierarchy of appellations is critically important because it dictates the character of the wine and, importantly, how long to age it before pulling the cork. So, let’s review the unique way the Chablisienne designate their wines.

The basic hierarchy runs—in ascending order—Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru, and Chablis Grand Cru.

It is worth committing that lineup to memory for starters, but then there are a few additional complications that need to be understood.

These appellations within Chablis differ from those in the rest of Burgundy. In the Côte d’Or, each Grand Cru vineyard has its own appellation. In Chablis, there are seven Grand Cru vineyards, but only one appellation, Chablis Grand Cru. The Grand Cru bottlings will invariably contain the name of the particular vineyard on the label. Although there are 40 Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis, consumers will generally see the names of only 17 “flag-bearing” ones because, sensibly, the authorities allow lesser-known vineyards, such as Les Epinottes, to be sold under a better-known name, Vaillons.

Below Premier Cru on the quality pyramid are wines designated simply as Chablis, sourced from vineyard sites that still lie on Kimmeridgian soil, but are not positioned well enough to qualify for Premier Cru status.

Last but by no means least, is the Petit Chablis appellation, which encompasses vineyards on Portlandian, as opposed to Kimmeridgian soil, a newer and harder soil. “Newer” is a term that needs to be understood in the context of geological time, as Portlandian soils are only 135 million years old, by contrast to the 150+ million years age of Kimmeridgian soils. Both seem plenty old, yet these soils do differ in composition as well as the character they impart to grapes growing on vines located in them.

The Serein River runs through the Chablis appellation and divides it into the right (eastern) and left (western) banks. The Grand Cru vineyards, running from southeast to northwest, Blanchot, Les Clos, Valmur, Grenouilles, Vaudésir, Preuses, and Bourgros, all lie on the right bank.

It can’t be quite that easy, of course. Avid searchers will also see an “eighth Grand Cru,” La Moutonne, which actually is a plot that lies mostly (90%) in Vaudésir and spills over into Preuses and is owned entirely by the superb Domaine Long-Depaquit, one of the several Bichot estates.

However, circling back to the main Grand Cru vineyards and the wines they produce, most observers consider Les Clos, with its distinct minerality and edginess, to be “the best,” which is an evaluation corroborated by the fact that producers showing a lineup of their wines almost always serve Les Clos last in order.

Vaudésir always rivals Les Clos because wines from that vineyard zone frequently have a touch more weight and depth. But such qualitative distinctions are arguably “hair splitting” when we’re addressing wines of such high potential quality.

Many Chablis Grand Cru wines still retail for less than $100 a bottle. While Chablis Grand Cru bottlings represent the pinnacle of quality, they, like other Grand Cru wines, need at least eight to 10 years of age before they reach their apogee, so keep your corkscrew away from the 2022s.

Premier Cru and village vineyards are found on both sides of the Serein. Since all the Grand Cru vineyards lie on the right bank, consumers might assume that the Premier Crus bottlings from the right bank are superior to those on the left bank. I believe the difference between the wines from the two banks lies in style, not quality. Although it is difficult to generalize, I typically find the Premier Cru releases from the right bank to be more substantial, with a cutting and mineral edge, while those from the left bank seem to have a floral component with a thicker layer of still-delicate stone fruit flavors atop their minerality that rounds them a bit.

With that noted, the individual producers’ style is far more important than whether a particular wine hails from a right or left bank Premier Cru site. So, my mantra—producer, producer, producer—remains paramount in Chablis.

Notable right bank Premier Crus include Montée de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu, and Fourchaume, while on the left bank look for the sturdy wines from Montmains, the floral ones from Vaillons, and the delicate and fruitier ones from Côte de Lechet. Consumers can easily find top Chablis Premier Cru in the $50 range.

Premier Cru Chablis wines, regardless of which bank they hail from, can be enjoyed sooner than the more famous Grand Cru releases, so consumers would be well advised to select a less prestigious Premier Cru Chablis over the Grand Cru from a similar vintage when at a restaurant. Still, Premier Cru Chablis wines need at least several years of bottle age (sometimes as many as five after the harvest year) to show their optimal level of complexity.

Village-designated Chablis (which is to say, wines sold simply as “Chablis”), especially from top producers, often stand as fabulous bargains. Almost all sell for a bit less than $40 per bottle, and many can be found in the $25 to $30 range. Those from the 2022 vintage offer the most enjoyment for current drinking, delivering more pleasure now than their more prestigious siblings. But don’t overlook the racier village Chablis from the cool 2021 growing season or the fleshier ones from the warmer 2020 vintage. The 2022 vintage seems to combine the characters of 2021 and 2020, offering most Chablis releases from 2022 a harmonious balance between delicate stone fruit qualities and vivifying minerality. Whatever they may lack in complexity and depth by comparison to the more elite Cru wines—and many don’t lack much—they make up for by dint of favorable pricing and early drinkability.

This brings us to Petit Chablis. Many producers dislike the appellation name because it seems to explicitly diminish the wines. Though they are indeed different than Chablis wines with loftier pedigrees, they are hardly without virtues of their own. Generally speaking, they deliver more fruitiness and less minerality compared to village Chablis wines from the same producer. And yet, from top producers, they are immediately engaging, ready to drink, fresh, and an excellent introduction to Chablis. Even though they come from Portlandian, rather than Kimmeridgian, limestone soil, they still convey a mineral quality that complements their delicate fruitiness. Petit Chablis will never be confused with an opulent New World Chardonnay-based wine.

My list of favorite Chablis producers is long and gets longer every year as younger vignerons split from their family’s domaine and set off to make their own wines. I indicate my very favorites with an asterisk (*) in the following list:

Domaine Barat
Samuel Billaud*
Domaine Billaud-Simon (now owned by Faiveley)
Jean-Marc Brocard*
Julien Brocard*
La Chablisienne (one of the top wine co-operatives in the world)
Domaine Jean Collet
Clotilde Davenne
Domaine Jean-Paul and Benoît Droin*
Domaine Drouhin-Vaudon* (the superb Drouhin estate in Chablis)
Domaine de l’Enclos
Domaine William Fèvre*
Domaine Gueguen
Domaine Roland Lavantureux
Domaine Long-Depaquit*
Domaine des Malandes
Domaine Louis Michel*
Domaine Christian Moreau*
Domaine Charley Nicolle
Domaine Oudin
Gilbert Picq & Fils
Domaine Pinson Frères
Patrick Piuze
Domaine Isabelle & Denis Pommier
Domaine Servin*
Simonnet-Febvre* (owned by Louis Latour)
Domaine Gérard Tremblay*
Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret*
Eleni & Edouard Vocoret

Those of you who remember Chablis from a couple of decades ago will notice how climate change in general has transformed Chablis at all levels. More than one producer told me something to the effect of, “Now we can make wine with ripe grapes.” The current Chablis wines are softer, with rounder edges, but they still retain minerality and verve. There’s added fruitiness, perhaps at the expense of a cutting quality in some cases, making the wines more accessible at a younger age. That said, they are still a unique and exquisite expression of Chardonnay and remain the bargain category for top whites from Burgundy.

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E-mail me your thoughts about Chablis at [email protected] and follow me on Instagram @MichaelApstein

February 12, 2025

Château Talbot: St-Julien’s totemic estate

February 1, 2025 11:02 pm

St-Julien is the quintessential expression of red Bordeaux, displaying grace and power without being overbearing.

It’s also the smallest of the major communes of Bordeaux and the one with the largest percentage of classified growths, as measured by acreage.

Indeed, 90% of the vineyards belong to the classified growths. St-Julien also claims to have the lowest average yield of all the major Médoc appellations, according to noted Bordeaux-authority Jane Anson.

Although Château Talbot is not the most prestigious property in St-Julien – that likely goes to Château Léoville Las Cases – Château Talbot is as characteristic of St-Julien as St-Julien is to Bordeaux.

And, as the tasting notes show, Talbot is an estate that is upping its game.

Old Talbot

The estate is supposedly named after Sir John Talbot, the 1st Earl of Shrewsbury – Shakespeare’s ‘Old Talbot’, also known as ‘the English Achilles’ and ‘Terror of the French’.

A veteran of the later campaigns of the Hundred Years War and the last English lieutenant of the Duchy of Aquitaine, he was killed at the Battle of Castillon in 1453.

This disaster of English arms effectively ended the century-long conflict, and resulted in the French taking control of Bordeaux after 300 years of English rule.

The estate has passed through only a handful of owners down the centuries. A map of 1785 marks an area of St-Julien as ‘Talbot’ and there is a house (which likely became the château), owned by the Delage family.

Not long afterwards it was bought by Jean-Jacques d’Aux de Lescout and passed down to his son, Henri-Raymond, who did much to expand the property. In 1899 Arnaud d’Aux sold the estate to Albert Claverie, and Désiré Cordier purchased it in 1918.

The Cordier family still owns Château Talbot, with Nancy Cordier-Bignon and her husband Jean-Paul Bignon being the current directors. Eric Boissenot consults.

Château Talbot, classified as a 4th growth in the Médoc Classification of 1855, is one of St-Julien’s largest estates, encompassing about 110ha, in one single block around the estate.

Vines & winemaking

At about 25 metres above sea level, it is ‘high elevation’ for the Médoc. Talbot’s plantings reflect what’s grown in St-Julien in general: roughly 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot.

There used to be Cabernet Franc in the blend but it was pulled out in 2007 by then-general manager Jean-Pierre Marty. His successor, Jean-Michel Laporte agrees with this move, believing that, unlike on the Right Bank, Petit Verdot is a better ‘complementary variety’ for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot than Cabernet Franc.

The grapes for Talbot come from vines that average 40 years old. They are harvested entirely by hand.

The harvesters do an initial sorting in the vineyard, eliminating diseased parts of bunches. In the cellar, the grapes are destemmed.

Then, state-of-the-art optical and densimetric sorting removes single berries that are not up to snuff.

After fermentation, the grand vin ages in oak barrels for about 16 months in an architectural gem of a barrel cellar.

Ahead of the curve

Talbot started producing a second wine, Connétable, beginning with the 1979 vintage, before many other Médoc producers adopted that practice.

Connétable typically comes from younger vines, but still averaging 30 years old, or those situated in less desirable parcels with sandy soils.

In contrast to the grand vin, Connétable is vinified in stainless steel tanks. It usually comprises about 40% of Talbot’s annual 400,000 bottle production.

Five of Talbot’s 110ha are devoted to white grapes, Sauvignon Blanc (80%) and Sémillon, from which it makes Caillou Blanc.

The blend of the wine typically follows the proportion of each in the vineyard. Although the vines lie within the St-Julien appellation, Caillou Blanc carries the Bordeaux Blanc appellation because regulations for St-Julien only permits red grapes.

Flying under the radar

Château Talbot frequently flies under the radar and fails to receive the accolades it deserves, perhaps because it is such a large estate with such a large production.

Whatever the reasons, it is a boon for consumers because the wines are widely available and the prices, at least compared to other cru classé, are reasonable.

As you’ll see from the tasting notes below, the wines of Château Talbot have become more refined and polished over the last two decades.

Jean-Michel Laporte, who ran La Conseillante for nearly a decade and has been the general manager and winemaker at Talbot since 2018, attributes the enhanced refinement to changes that his predecessor, Jean-Pierre Marty, made – starting with the 2006 vintage.

Laporte notes that Talbot was, ‘late to embracing new technology’ and explained that Marty and his team took a more ‘modern and cleaner approach to winemaking’ at Talbot.

Laporte emphasises that when he took over at Talbot he ‘didn’t want to change the style’. He just wanted to add slightly ‘more depth to the mid-palate’.

Laporte adds modestly that he ‘adjusted some details’ in the vineyard and the cellar. His aim in general, whether at Conseillante and now at Talbot, is ‘to preserve balance, have ripe tannins, and avoid astringency’.

In the vineyard, Laporte removed leaves from the vines earlier in the growing season to achieve better maturity of the grapes and reduce the chance of disease.

He notes now that while overall average yields were fine, he found that decreasing yields in a few of the plots improved quality.

Savoury & savoured

In the cellar, he started the pumping over earlier during fermentation, when the alcohol level is low, to extract softer tannins from the skins instead of more astringent ones from the seeds.

He also slightly increased the amount of new oak barrels for ageing, from 50% to 60% to bring softer, more refined tannins to the wine.

In addition to greater refinement of the wines over the last two decades, the tasting notes indicate that the wines from Château Talbot develop beautifully with bottle age.

They deliver an engaging and alluring combination of fruitiness mixed with that illusive ‘not just fruit’, woodsy, savoury character.

Another lesson: even mature wines evolve in the glass, so they should be savoured, not rushed.

Château Talbot: 14 notes from 2020-1966
Wines are listed in order of descending vintages.

Château Talbot, Caillou Blanc, Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Although Sauvignon Blanc’s distinctive varietal character is readily apparent on the nose, a subtle creaminess appears on the palate, creating a harmonious counterpoint and a balanced wine. Fresh and vigorous, a delectable touch of bitterness in the finish vividly makes the point that this is not just a fruity varietal wine.
Michael Apstein – Points: 91
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030

This is an confident and attractive Caillou Blanc, showing soft apricot and white pear flesh through the mid palate. Not hugely varietal, it is more about the texture of the wine, with bitter almonds on the finish that give both pep and focus.
Jane Anson – Points: 92
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

The long and polished 2020 Talbot leads with great fragrance followed by black fruit notes and even a hint of tar. Overall, it is less muscular, but still concentrated, and more refined than the densely paced 2018, conveying a classic St-Julien temperament. Its suaveness makes it surprisingly approachable even now. The energy and refinement of the 2020, like the 2019, make one wonder whether Laporte consciously turned down the volume after the massive 2018.
Michael Apstein – Points: 96
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2045

This is a great Talbot, a real success for the château. Subtle and deft touches throughout, from the smoked turmeric notes that lace the black fruits to the finessed aromatics that accompany the body of the wine. Balance and freshness, and a saline edge to the finish that is extremely moreish. Three years with Jean-Michel Laporte as director and he is doing great work.
Jane Anson – Points: 95
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2040

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2019

The youthful and energetic 2019 Talbot, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, retains grace despite its ripeness. Still bold for a St-Julien, it shows the restraint and elegance of Talbot. Brimming with black fruit, and a suave, silky texture, the savoury side has just started to peek out. With its impeccable balance, I’m sure it will develop gorgeously.
Michael Apstein – Points: 95
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2045

St Julien’s largest property at 110ha (up there with Lagrange if you’re keeping track), this has lovely plump black fruits on the nose. Takes hold right from the start, with clear tannic build and a silky character to the tannins. This continues the run of good vintages that Talbot has been producing since 2016. Well balanced, with plenty of St Julien character. Tasted twice two weeks apart. Highest ever level of Cabernet Sauvignon at the estate. Harvest 19 September to 8 October. 60% new oak.
Jane Anson – Points: 93
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2040

Such an expressive nose, majoring on floral black cherry and dark chocolate notes. High toned on the palate you can feel the freshness which is so welcome. This has nice appeal, quite a gentle style, definite grippy tannins but they are round with smooth edges. Nice impact, not showy or too over the top. Just a bit of rusticity on the finish still with licks of liquorice spice.
Georgina Hindle – Points: 93
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2035

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2018

The youthful and sumptuous 2018 comes in a strikingly heavy engraved bottle that celebrates the 100th anniversary of Cordier ownership. It is both delicious and atypical. Atypical, because this ripe and juicy wine, weighing in at a stated 14.5% alcohol, is unusually muscular for St-Julien. Delicious, because its exuberant fruitiness and silky, suave texture makes it hard to resist now. More in keeping with a California-style wine than a St-Julien it is, nonetheless, a marvellous combination and balance of power and elegance. Laporte describes the 2018 as ‘a garage wine’ and not the style he wants to make. He attributes its size to the warmth of the vintage and thinks it will settle down with proper aging.
Michael Apstein – Points: 94
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2045

A great St-Julien that reflects the estate more than the vintage – a definite compliment to the winemaking team as well as those 50-year-old (on average) vines that are less swayed by climatic changes. This is full of blackberry and bilberry, with a touch of tobacco on the nose. There’s good sweetness to the fruit, and although it’s not quite as punchy, deep or concentrated as some, this means that it has a beautifully balanced appellation signature. 45hl/ha yield. 60% new oak.
Jane Anson – Points: 94
Drinking Window: 2027 – 2040

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2015

The gentle 2015 Talbot shows the charms of claret. Not a powerhouse, it caresses the palette. Its restraint and elegance are the epitome of Talbot. With its mixture of fresh dark fruit accented by a delicate cedar or tobacco-like spice, it’s almost ready. The suave texture of this restrained charmer means that for some, it is ready.
Michael Apstein – Points: 93
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2040

Another excellent vintage, where we see Talbot growing in precision. This is soft and well-placed, building in power over the enjoyable palate. The softness of the fruit means I might expect the 2014 to age longer, but no one is going to complain about the enjoyment here, and it still retains its St-Julien balance. Aged in 50% new oak.
Jane Anson – Points: 93
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2040

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2014

Here the lovely cedar nose draws you in and leads to an elegant combination of dark fruit and mature, leather-like nuances. The tannins are not as fine as more recent vintages but allow support without being intrusive. Alluring maturity comes out at this decade-old beauty.
Michael Apstein – Points: 92
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030

Good, firm fruits are well placed, with notes of cedar, liquorice and cassis – this really is an enjoyable Talbot that offers the promise of a long life. There’s enjoyable grip and tenacity through the palate, with spicy, flexible tannins. It has a substantial weight that fleshes out and deepens. It’s savoury in the French sense of ‘savoureux’, with connotations of juiciness and a ‘give me more’ appeal. Aged in 50% new oak.
Jane Anson – Points: 93
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2038

Deep colour and rich fruit – good blackberry spice and quite smooth flavours. Will open up early but can last.
Stephen Spurrier – Points: 89
Drinking Window: 2018 – 2028

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2009

A hint of brick colour at the edge belies the youthfulness of the gorgeous 2009 Talbot. Succulent black fruit sits on a firm but suave base. Savoury mature nuances peak out, but this beauty has miles to go before it sleeps (apologies to Robert Frost). This poised delight shows the charm of St-Julien.
Michael Apstein – Points: 95
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2040

As with the 2005 vintage, you immediately feel the effects of the year translate into more layers of flavour. I love this 2009, because it is still a classic Bordeaux, well balanced in alcohol – nothing excessive but it allows the château to show the best of itself. Sometimes Talbot can be a little reserved, a little too classical, but here the fruit is generous, dark, brambly and still young. The mint notes remain fresh, but the graphite and slate are more evident, and you can feel the tug of a great Cabernet here. Aged in 50% new oak.
Jane Anson (Dec 2017) – Points: 94
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2038

A well structured wine with smoke and cedar edging to the aromatics, a generous, ripe fruit structure and soft, well-integrated tannins. It has clear appeal. At this stage, the 2005 seems to better encapsulate the heart of St-Julien but the 2009 offers an extremely enjoyable wine, even if less typical of the appellation.
Jane Anson (Feb 2019) – Points: 94
Drinking Window: 2019 – 2036

Elegant new oak marks the nose, as well as stylish cassis fruit. Evidence of tightly knit, ripe fruit on the palate. Quite dense – the tannins are present but ripe and the acidity correct. Poised and long, with fine potential; will come out of its shell.
Stephen Brook, Alun Griffiths MW, Steven Spurrier – Points: 90
Drinking Window: 2015 – 2030

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2006

After almost two decades, the dazzling 2006 Talbot is entering its window of maturity. Gorgeous aromatics suck you in and the palate does not disappoint. Alluring cedary nuances add complexity and a ‘not just fruit’ quality to its weighty black fruitiness. Many will find this fresh and poised Talbot perfect for current consumption while others will still find it youthful and wish to cellar it for a few more years to allow for even more evolution. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc.
Michael Apstein – Points: 94
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2035

These wines demonstrate how Bordeaux somehow straddles the midpoint between Burgundy and the New World, and you see here why they work so well for so many palates: they have tannins and power, but are also elegant and refrain from giving too much away too soon. 2006 is another classic Médoc year where the tannins are firm and the wine is elegant and rich, but not showy. The 2006 has taken its time to come around and it remains fairly restrained, but this is still a beautifully classic St-Julien. Don’t leave Talbot for as long as, for example, Château Léoville Las Cases, but it will still reward with true St-Julien balance and freshness. This is very good.
Jane Anson – Points: 92
Drinking Window: 2018 – 2030

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 1995

The suave and clearly mature 1995 Talbot, from half-bottle, was still fresh 29 years later. A touch of cedar accented fading fruitiness in this mid-weight beauty. It’s a graceful wine that manages to keep expanding as it sits in the glass. 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc.
Michael Apstein – Points: 92
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 1990

Unsurprisingly given the stature of the vintage, the 1990 Talbot was stunning. A garnet slightly brown tinged rim indicates its age. Rich, certainly, yet refined, it conveys the understated power and elegance of St-Julien in general and Talbot in particular. Here’s a classic mid-weight wine delivering both fading plum-like fruit and woodsy nuances along with a hint of balsamic-like notes. 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc.
Michael Apstein – Points: 95
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 1988

The 1988, from a 6-litre bottle, has turned out splendidly. The hard tannins characteristic of the vintage – and apparent when this wine was young – have melted away to reveal a supple texture and a panoply of dark fruit and coffee-like savoury elements. Still fresh, it likely has more evolution in it. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc.
Michael Apstein – Points: 95
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2035

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 1986

In a word, gorgeous. The ferocious tannins of the vintage have melted away but still linger in the background, providing structure to its plum-like fruitiness. Hints of cedar peek out. Despite being another bold expression of Talbot, it maintains a graceful profile. Fresh and youthful still, you’d never guess it’s 38 years old. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc.
Michael Apstein – Points: 95
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2044

The weather in 1986 suited Cabernet extremely well, with some early September rains after a good July and August, then fine weather right through the rest of the month and into October, giving exceptional harvesting conditions. You can see it in the colour, and smell it on the nose that remains subdued but confident. It’s a lovely wine, a little austere compared to some of the older wines but full of firm, dark blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, tight tannins, and with dancing acidity across the palate that suggests it’s going nowhere anytime soon. The fruits are not primary but are at least in the early bloom of Cabernet Sauvignon, and it has a mouthwatering finish. A fine and well-structured St-Julien, with plenty of appellation typicity. 3% Cabernet Franc makes up the blend.
Jane Anson – Points: 93
Drinking Window: 2018 – 2040

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France 1983

Like the 1990, the mature 1983 Talbot leads with a browning edge and similar subtle balsamic notes. Dark fruits mingle effortlessly with the cedar, coffee, and leathery nuances of maturity. Still fresh at 40+ years, the 1983 is a marvellous success, especially for the vintage. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc.
Michael Apstein – Points: 96
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030

It is difficult for me to remember a wine that gave such incredible instant gratification on pulling the cork. Smokey, leather, pencil shavings jump out the glass from minute one. The palate is fully evolved and the tannins are perfectly integrated. This is a wine that gives instant pleasure with no need to decant. So moreish with wonderful balance. Nothing out of place. I would suggest not opening too far in advance and don’t let it hang around. If you have this in your cellar, pull a cork today… you will not regret it.
Gareth Birchley – Points: 93
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2023

Château Talbot, St-Julien, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 1966

Browning edges proclaim its age. Clearly mature with alluring leathery and cedar nuances, the graceful 1966, even at 58 years old, is still fresh, not tired, and a delight to drink. The dark fruitiness has faded, but the wine’s stature and graceful profile has not. Long and refined, it’s a classic, old-style St-Julien that reinforces the motive for ageing wines. 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc
Michael Apstein – Points: 96
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2066

Keep your Eye on the Mâconnais in 2025 and Beyond

December 25, 2024 3:31 pm

In the Mâconnais, Pouilly-Vinzelles and Pouilly-Loché finally received their deserved recognition with identification of Premier Crus vineyards, those sites that have the potential to produce superior wine. These two appellations now join Pouilly-Fuissé, the best-known Mâconnais village, where regulators identified 22 vineyards as Premier Cru starting with the 2022 vintage. With the 2024 vintage, “Les Longeays,” “Les Pétaux,” and “Les Quarts” in Pouilly-Vinzelles and “Les Mûres” in Pouilly-Loché will carry the Premier Cru designation on the label. Regulations required that no herbicides be used in these vineyards and all grapes must be harvested manually. Like Pouilly-Fuissé, these two villages produce only white wine from Chardonnay. In Pouilly-Vinzelles, these three climats (how the Bourgogne refer to vineyards) comprise 22.72 ha (57.7 acres) or roughly 43 percent of the vineyard sites in the appellation. The sole site in Pouilly-Loché, the 7.09-ha (18 acres) Les Mûres, represents 22 percent of the Pouilly-Loché appellation. By comparison, in Chassagne-Montrachet, 45 percent of the vineyards are classified as Premier Cru. So, it’s clear that the authorities are according elevated status to the truly top spots, as is the case in the Côte d’Or, here in the Mâconnais.

Compared to the Côte d’Or, the climate in the Mâconnais is a touch warmer, leading to riper, plusher wines. The soil, with its limestone, still provides minerality and verve to the wines. One clear sign of the potential in the Mâconnais is the investment by rock star-like Côte d’Or producers, such as Comte Lafon, and the equally, or even more, prestigious Domaine Leflaive.

The Mâconnais in general will be the place to look for well-priced white Burgundy in 2025 and beyond, even accounting for the inevitable increases in prices for wine from Pouilly-Vinzelles and Pouilly-Loché now that some of their vineyards have achieved Premier Cru recognition.

In a bizarre way, the Nazis were responsible for the delay in categorizing the top vineyards in the Mâconnais. Frédéric Burrier, the former head of the Pouilly-Fuissé growers’ organization, explains: In the Occupied France of the early 1940s, the Germans could requisition wines from the village level, but had to pay for ones, at least theoretically, from a higher classification. At that time the only higher classification was Grand Cru. Premier Cru did not exist. So, growers in the Côte Chalonnaise, which was located in Occupied France, rapidly formalized the generally accepted classification of the better sites into a Premier Cru category, forcing the Germans to pay for them. The Mâconnais lay in so-called “Free France” (or Vichy France) where the Germans had to pay for all wines, even those with only a village classification. So, there was no impetus for the growers to create a Premier Cru category. This bit of history explains why Montagny, a Côte Chalonnaise village just over the dividing line in Occupied France, has so many Premier Cru vineyards: 75 percent of its vineyards became—and still are—Premier Cru.

More and more, growers in the Mâconnais are focusing on site-specificity instead of bottling everything under the broad Macon-Villages rubric. There are 27 villages within the Mâconnais that can attach their name to generic “Mâcon” label, for example Mâcon-Azé, if all the grapes come from that individual village. This practice can lead to some confusion when the name of the wine, such as Mâcon-Fuissé, suggests a more exalted AOC. This is not French trickery but rather an example of how part of a village’s vineyards lies within, and are classified as, Pouilly-Fuissé, while another portion of them, lie in less favorable areas, and carry the less prestigious, Macon-Fuissé, moniker.

Tasting wines from Mâconnais producers who make and bottle wines from the individual villages, such as Domaine de la Garenne’s Mâcon-Azé next to their Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly or Domaine du Château de Pierreclos’s Mâcon-Pierreclos side by side with their Mâcon-Milly Lamartine, shows the wonderful diversity and individuality of wines from this region. Just as in the Côte d’Or, where Meursault tastes different from Puligny-Montrachet, these producers are showing that, in the Mâconnais, wines from adjacent villages taste different because of the subtle differences in soil and exposure. The near magical concept of terroir exists in the Mâconnais, only at a price we non-one-percenters can afford.

Producers, such as Comte Lafon, whose Côte d’Or wines sell out immediately despite their stratospheric prices, are drilling down more, identifying single vineyards within a particular village, such as their Mâcon-Uchize “Les Maraches” and their Mâcon-Chardonnay “Clos de la Crochette” (yes, Chardonnay is the name of a village) because they have found them to be unique and distinctive. Look for more instances of this parcellation in the future.

Although the Mâconnais is known for its excellent and well-priced Chardonnay-based wines, an exciting development there is the appearance of noteworthy reds made from both Pinot Noir and Gamay. To appreciate the stature of these wines, search for ones from Domaine Guilloux-Broux. Like other visionaries in the Mâconnais, he focuses on the vineyard site, putting its name on the front label and relegating the appellation to the back label. He emphasizes, “I sell my name and terroir, that’s why no appellation is on front label.”

Red wines carrying the appellation Mâcon, with or without a village name, must be made entirely from Gamay. The limestone of the Mâconnais imparts a wonderous minerality to Gamay that sets it apart from the fruitiness of Gamay planted on the granite of Beaujolais. If growers opt to use Pinot Noir in the Mâconnais, the wine will carry the Bourgogne AOC, not Mâcon.

At this stage, I wouldn’t worry about remembering names of the individual villages in the Mâconnais, except of course for the ones with their own AOC, Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Pouilly-Loche, and two awaiting Premier Cru classification, St. Véran and Viré-Clessé, but rather take my general advice: producer, producer, producer. Here are some I heartily recommend. Whenever I see their wines on a list, I order them even if I’m unfamiliar with the precise locale of the grapes because they are so reliable, even in, as the French would say, “difficult” vintages.

In addition to Domaine Guilloux-Broux, my favorite producers in the Mâconnais include the organic and biodynamically-certified Domaine Soufrandière and their négociant label, Bret Brothers, located in Vinzelles; Maison Auvigue located in Fuissé (sometimes seen under just Auvigue or Héritiers Auvigue); Domaine Jacques Saumaize in Vergisson, and Domaine Rijckaert in Davayé. Also on my list is Domaine Merlin, located in Mâcon-La Roche-Vineuse where they make a stunning wine that carries that appellation. Merlin has also formed a partnership with the aforementioned Comte Lafon to produce Pouilly-Fuissé. Speaking of Pouilly-Fuissé, Château de Beauregard, a leading producer there, also makes a stellar Mâcon-Fuissé.

. . .

E-mail me your favorite producers in the Mâconnais at [email protected] and follow me on Instagram @MichaelApstein

December 25, 2024

Chianti Rùfina Ups its Game—Again

October 23, 2024 11:13 pm

With the 2018 vintage, Chianti Rùfina introduced a new level of classification, called “Terraelectae,” to sit atop their pyramid of quality. With the 2020 vintage the Chianti Rùfina producers upped their game again by showing just how distinctive and noteworthy this new category of wine is. In general, the 2020 Terraelectae are more refined with more suaveness and more complexity than the Terraelectae from the inaugural vintage. And despite the warmth of the 2020 vintage, the Terraelectae overall maintain freshness with enlivening acidity.

A little background helps explain what’s going on here.

The wines from Chianti Rùfina, a unique, high-quality subregion of the greater Chianti area, are overshadowed by those from its larger and better-known neighbor, Chianti Classico. In an attempt to change that, and to show the world what distinctive wines they could make, Rùfina producers created a new category of wine, Terraelectae, which translates as “choice” or “noble” lands. Terraelectae will sit at the pinnacle of the Chianti Rùfina quality pyramid, above Riserva, just as Gran Selezione sits atop Chianti Classico’s quality pyramid.

Regulations for Terraelectae are stricter than those for Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione. The wines must come from a single vineyard that’s owned or leased and fully managed by the producer. Each producer in Chianti Rùfina—there are only about 20 of them—can select a single vineyard for their Terraelectae bottling. The wines must be made entirely from Sangiovese, which means that Terraelectae wines, along with Brunello di Montalcino, are the only Tuscan wines that must use Sangiovese exclusively.

Additionally, Terraelectae wines must be made from a 25-percent lower yield (about 3 tons/acre compared to 4.25 for Riserva) and undergo additional aging—30 months of aging compared to 24 for Riserva—prior to release, 18 of which must be in barrel. Individual producers determine the specifics of barrel-aging, as in vessel size. The wines must then rest and age in bottle for at least six months prior to release.

Wines labeled Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, in comparison, must come from a producer’s own vineyards, but not necessarily a single vineyard, without incorporation of purchased grapes, and must have a minimum of 80 percent of Sangiovese in the blend. Other indigenous red grapes can fill out the blend. Just as Chianti Classico features Gran Selezione prominently on the label, Chianti Rùfina’s top bottles will carry the Terraelectae designation as well as the name of the vineyard. A future requirement for Terraelectae wines will be that they are produced from organically grown grapes.

Chianti Rùfina, despite producing enticingly savory and fresh wines from its small area, always fights for a place at the table, so it’s not surprising that they created Terraelectae to combat their under-rated status. Chianti Classico, for example, produces at least ten times as much wine from 15 times as many producers. Habitually confused with large Chianti producer Ruffino, the Rùfina Consorzio placed an accent on the “u” in the 1970s to explain proper pronunciation even to Italians.

Federico Giuntini Masseti, president of the Chianti Rùfina Consorzio, says that the purpose of Terraelectae is to highlight the special character of the Sangiovese-based wines from Rùfina’s unique terroir. Chianti Rùfina producers with whom I’ve spoken hope that the Terraelectae category will eventually propel Chianti Rùfina as a whole into the top echelons of Tuscan DOCGs, such as Brunello di Montalcino.

The wines from Chianti Rùfina in general, and the Terraelectae in particular, are distinct from other Chianti subregions. A cooler climate due to the Rùfina’s higher elevation and more rugged topography imbues the wines with a sleek, savory aspect and enormous energy. Faye Lottero, owner of Fattoria Lavacchio, a leading Rùfina estate, believes that the region’s elevation and wind-swept terroir give Chianti Rùfina an advantage in relation to climate change. Gerardo Gondi of the Tenuta Bossi, another of the region’s leading estates, describes them succinctly as “mountain Chianti.”

With the initial 2018 vintage, 10 producers—fewer than half of all Rùfina producers—bottled a single-vineyard Chianti Rùfina Riserva as a Terraelectae. The wines first were certified as DOCG Chianti Rùfina Riserva by Italian wine regulators. Then, a group of Chianti Rùfina producers themselves assessed the wines to be sure that they conformed to a high standard. Those that passed—not all did—were allowed to sport Terraelectae on the label. It’s worth emphasizing that the producers themselves, not a regulatory authority, have created the rules and judge the quality and character of the wines. It was clear from my discussions that some producers who submitted wines initially were asked to wait a year or two, presumably to refine quality, before being allowed to use the Terraelectae designation. So, with the 2020 vintage, 13 estates have been certified to produce a Terraelectae.

The Wines

While some of these wines are engaging, and quite drinkable, now because of their suaveness, all will gain complexity with bottle age and develop beautifully over the next decade. In short, these are wines for the cellar. Most of the 2020 Terraelectae, indicated as n/a in the notes below, have not made it to our shores. When available, I have given prices as noted by winesearcher.com of the 2018s as a point of reference.

Fattoria Selvapiana, always a leader in Chianti Rùfina, shows their talent with a powerful and lithe 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigneto Erchi.” A silky, glossy texture just adds to its appeal and allows for immediate enjoyment, though its balance and depth suggest a long and graceful evolution. ($54 for the 2018; drink now – 2040). 96

With greater refinement without losing any substance, Colognole’s suave 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigneto Le Rogaie,” is even better than their excellent 2018 ($52 for the 2018; drink 2026 – 2036). 95

Vinae Montae waited until 2020 to release their sensational Terraelectae, “Vigneto Il Monte.” Poised, elegant and restrained, it nonetheless explodes on the palate. Pure and firm, it’s the epitome of refined and expressive Sangiovese in the right terroir (Currently n/a; drink 2027- 2047). 95

With a darker profile, Fattoria Lavacchio’s dense 2020 Terraelectae “Vigna Casanova,” a vineyard they planted in 1963, delivers a black cherry essence supported by a youthful structure ($64 for the 2018; drink 2028 – 2038). 94

Frascole’s captivating 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigna alla Stele,” displays a gorgeous combination of dark cherry-like ripeness intertwined with what I like to call ‘not just fruit’ character. Although its suave texture makes it immediately appealing, it will have a lot more to deliver with proper cellaring (Currently n/a; drink now – 2040). 94

Podere Il Pozzo waited until 2019 to release their first Terraelectae, “Vigna Il Fiorino,” so their explosive 2020 represents only their second effort. What a success! Dark cherries, spice and a hint of alluring wildness come together in the finely balanced, but youthful, expression of Chianti Rùfina (Currently n/a; drink 2026 – 2040). 94

With the 2020 vintage, Grignano Tenuta Inghirami opted to bottle “Vigna Montefiesole” instead of their Vigna Poggio Gualteri, which they had previously bottled as a Terraelectae with the 2018 and 2019 vintages. A combination of spicy black cherry-like notes, good weight, and enlivening freshness makes their 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigna Montefiesole,” an easy choice. The interplay of fruit and spice dazzles the palate while the suave texture, again, allows current enjoyment. (Currently n/a; drink now – 2040). 93

Perhaps the largest leap in quality from 2018 to 2020 goes to I Veroni’s complex and now suave 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigneto Quona.” The combined red/black fruit and spice in the 2020 is like that of the 2018, but the structure, with finer tannins, has been polished. Still youthful, it is easy to see its fine trajectory. And a bargain to boot. ($25; drink 2026 – 2040). 93

Villa Travignoli’s dense 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigna Colonneto,” follows in the footsteps of their very fine 2018: savory aromatics intertwined with cherry-like notes and finished with alluring and balancing bitter ones. Fine tannins lend support without intruding (Currently n/a; drink 2026 -2040). 93

Tenuta Bossi Marchese Gondi’s plush 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigna Poggio Diamante,” manages to convey ripe dark cherry-like fruitiness supported by firm, not hard, tannins without going overboard (Currently n/a; drink 2028 – 2045). 92

Fattoria Il Capitano opted to delay their participation in the Terraelectae project until 2019. Their packed and tightly wound 2020 Terraelectae, “Vigneto Poggio,” displays youthful structure that mellows slowly with air allowing its stature to reveal itself (Currently n/a; drink 2028-2038). 91

. . .

The key to success of the Terraelectae project will be a continuation of the overall improvement seen between the 2018 and 2020 vintages with more producers signing on with high-quality distinctive wines. Continued self-policing by producers will ultimately determine whether Terraelectae becomes established as a benchmark of quality or just a marketing ploy. The success of the 2020 Terraelectae wines indicates that it just might become a benchmark.

They’re at it again: Domaine du Cellier aux Moines is putting Juliénas on the map with Mount Bessay

October 11, 2024 10:42 pm

They’re at it again: Domaine du Cellier aux Moines is putting Juliénas on the map with Mount Bessay.

The team at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines has reminded the world that great and distinctive wines can come from Givry (autocorrect, it’s not Gevrey) in the Côte Chalonnaise. Now, they’re doing the same thing in Juliénas in Beaujolais. In 2021, partners Philippe Pascal and winemaker Guillaume Marko established an estate, Domaine Mont Bessay, on the top of that eponymous mountain in Juliénas.

Pascal and Marko complement each other. As a previous CEO of both Veuve Clicquot Champagne and Moët Hennessy, Philippe knows a thing or two about the wine industry. Marko, who had worked at the Domaine Romanée-Conti and other Côte de Nuits-properties, guided the transition to organic farming and biodynamic winemaking at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines. They started those practices immediately at Domaine Mount Bessay.

Juliénas, one of the ten crus of Beaujolais is, even by Pascal’s assessments, “not well-known.” He believes that, though forgotten, it can be the source or distinctive wine, equal to those of the better-known crus, such as Moulin-à-Vent and Fleurie. Pascal points out that historically, Juliénas was revered, especially in Paris. In the early twentieth century, insufficient water transportation from Beaujolais to Paris meant that only premium wines that could withstand the trip over land made it to the capital. Juliénas was just such a wine. And though it seems hard to believe today, at the time it commanded a price like those from Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, according to Pascal. “Juliénas lost its allure after the (Second World) War, but it has the potential to come back. This is our real challenge.”

Pascal recounts how négociant bottling heralded the demise of Juliénas. At the beginning of the twentieth century, growers bottled a vast amount of Juliénas. Now though it’s the négociants, and not growers, who bottle 80 percent of the wine. Compare that to Moulin-à-Vent and Fleurie, where growers bottle three-quarters of the wine. And since most négociants dealing in Beaujolais tend to make a single cuvée when they bottle their Juliénas, individuality of terroir is inevitably lost.

In stark contrast with the négociants, Pascal and Marko intend to restore individuality. Judging by their wines, they have.

From the terrace of their Mount Bessay winery—completed literally days before the 2023 harvest—the diversity of Juliénas’ vineyards spread out on the slopes below is readily apparent, even to the untrained eye. They have a large, triangularly shaped six hectares parcel of the 40 hectares lieu-dit En Bessay, just below the winery, another two hectares piece of En Bessay that extends over an adjacent ridge. From these plots they have vinified three distinct cuvées. A third 0.7 hectares plot, Quatre Cerisiers, named after four cherry trees, lies some distance away. Benjamin Rousset, who joined as the estate manager in 2022, shows just how different the sites are by comparing a piece of blue stone from the Quatre Cerisiers lieu-dit to the red granite from En Bessay (see photo).

They’ve also added parcels in Moulin-à-Vent, the most prestigious of the Beaujolais cru, giving them today about 10 hectares. But their focus remains on Juliénas. Indeed, when tasting a line-up of their wines, they always pour it last.

What makes the project unique—and the wines so captivating—is doing what they did so successfully in Givry: parcelization of the vineyard. They’ve identified subsections within En Bessay, which faces southeast and varies in elevation from 360 to 420 meters, based on soil composition and exposure that allows them to tailor the vines to the site. Even though they are working only with Gamay, the grape expresses itself in a vastly different manner depending on the site, according to Marko. Although the soil in Juliénas, like the rest of Beaujolais, is predominately granite, it is highly varied, with many different types of disintegrated granite, as the team found out from their soil studies. Philippe explains that locals for years have pointed out which parcels within Juliénas are better than others. Marko is emphatic, “We are sure we can make a great wine with Gamay tailoring it to a complex terroir. With pierre bleue (blue stone), Gamay is completely different.” Rousset explains that blue stone is a type of granite of volcanic origin that lacks quartz and imparts a specific character to the wine.

Terroir works in Beaujolais, says Pascal, “if you listen to it.” He continues, “If you listen to the different lieux-dits, plot by plot, you will get great expression.” He adds, “The local farmers have known that for generations.” He faults the négociants for hiding it with massive over-production of generic Juliénas. He wants to emulate in Juliénas what the growers in Pouilly-Fuissé recently accomplished—recognition of Premier Cru vineyards.

He believes they have received, and will receive more, success in Juliénas based on what they’ve learned in Givry at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines. But he adds modestly, “we are here with nothing to impose (by way of Burgundy) and everything to learn.”

For parcelization to allow terroir to speak, the winemaker needs the ability to keep the grapes from parcels separate in the winery. With their new winery the partners have done just that. They have sufficient vats of differing sizes so that they can ferment the grapes and age the wines from the different plots separately. Tasting the 2022 wines from different parcels from barrel, as I did last November, shows the importance of site. Gamay from Quatre Cerisiers displayed firm and structured character, while Gamay from parcels in En Bessay showed elegance and varying amounts of spice complementing its minerality, confirming that the terroir speaks loudly in Juliénas if given the chance.

Despite the enormous investment in the new winery, the partners’ focus remains on the vineyard. To them, the vineyard and its heterogeneity remains the key aspect of their project. In addition to organic farming, they are replanting with a high-density selection massale looking to replace plants that produce “potato-sized” grapes as Pascal described them, with ones that produce smaller berries. Pascal explains that old vines, like the ones they are replacing in Juliénas, are not necessarily the best, if the motivation to plant them was for maximal yield. A massale selection uses cutting from high-quality vines in the vineyard instead of nursery-bought clones and results in more diverse grapes and better wines. High-density planting, though far more expensive, results in a smaller yield per vine. “We do believe that when you have low density you are asking every vine to produce more lower quality grapes, (leading to lower quality wine). Replanting in this manner is a massive undertaking, but crucial to their success, as they showed in Givry.

Luck allowed Pascal and Marko to acquire the 6.0 hectares piece of En Bessay in 2021 from four different growers, two of whom were retiring. They convinced the other two to sell at the same time. The following year they purchased Quatre Cerisiers. Along the way, they purchased the plot in Moulin-à-Vent, and most recently a 0.7 hectares plot in the lieu-dit Côte de Besset in St. Amour, which borders their winery on the north. They also acquired a 1.0 hectres parcel in the limestone-rich neighboring St. Véran appellation for white wine. They plan to bottle wine from those sites in the future. Despite the expansion, Pascal and Marko remain focused on the wines from granite-rich soil of Juliénas.

Marko made the first two vintages, 2021 and 2022, in a rudimentary winery in a garage they rented down the road from their current winery. Luck shined on them again because the weather was cold during vinification, which helped since the garage had no temperature control. The wines from those two first vintages turned out very well, especially considering the conditions under which they were made, due, in part, to a severe selection of grapes.

Marko prefers making red wines over whites. That said, he has made stellar white wines at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines from their Côte d’Or sites. He compares making red wine to being a chef. (His father, in fact, was a chef who worked with Joël Robuchon for 40 years.) He explains that making red wine requires him to make lots of decisions. Like a chef, he tastes what he’s making frequently, often twice a day. In contrast, making whites is, according to him, “like being a pastry chef. You work by the rules. Reds allow you show your soul. With reds, you’re a chef. With whites you’re a technician.”

Unsurprisingly, given Marko’s philosophy, winemaking does not follow a strict formula. The specifics—inclusion of whole bunch, oak aging, duration of fermentation—vary from vintage to vintage. For example, in just these two vintages, Marko has included anywhere from 20 to 100 percent of whole bunches in the fermentation vat. Pascal adds, “The key is to adapt to what Nature is offering.”

Philippe is quick to point out that the animals on the label are hares, not rabbits. He recounts how every time he and Guillaume were scouring Juliénas for vineyards, they would see hares running around. During the mating season they stand on their hind legs and fight each other with their front legs. Philippe remembers that the English have a history of hunting cartoons showing boxing hares, so he felt it would be an apt symbol of the estate. His daughter, Margot, a designer, added the red boxing gloves.

Currently, Domaine Mount Bessay bottles three wines, a Juliénas labeled En Bessay, a Juliénas labeled Quatre Cerisiers, and a Moulin-à-Vent, labeled Le Vieux Bourg. Whether they decide to bottle wine from individual plots in En Bessay separately in the future, which is what they’ve done so successfully in Givry, remains to be seen, according to Pascal and Marko. I suspect they will.

Pascal is not shy about pricing. Domaine Mount Bessay’s En Bessay is likely the most expensive Juliénas ever. But then again, he does have experience selling luxury goods.

(All photos by Michalel Apstein)

The wines

Domaine Mount Bessay 2022 Moulin-à-Vent “Le Vieux Bourg Beaujolais 91

Grapes from their new plantings are not yet included in the wine, so the 2022 is a result of a strict selection from their 0.5 ha plot, composed mostly of granitic sand and located well above the windmill. They destemmed only 20 percent of the bunches prior to fermentation. The wine was aged in used oak for just over twelve months, which is long for Beaujolais. The 2022 is unusually forward for a young Moulin-à-Vent, a characteristic Philippe attributes to the lack of rocks in the sandy granitic soil. It displays a wonderful minerality that complements its black fruit character. Elegance balances and amplifies its firmness, making it delightful to drink now. Drinking window: 2024-2030.

Domaine Mount Bessay 2022 Juliénas En Bessay Beaujolais 93

Like the Moulin-à-Vent, it’s too soon for grapes from their new plantings to find their way into the 2022. Similarly, a strict selection of grapes at harvest and at their rented garage winery helps account for the high quality of the wine. Like the Moulin-à-Vent, 80 percent of the grapes were fermented as whole bunches, but using Burgundian techniques (longer maceration and a mixture of punching down and pumping over), not employing carbonic maceration. They aged the wine for 15 months in French oak barrels, 10 percent of which were new. The stylish and spicy 2022 En Bessay has astounding polish, especially for a Juliénas, whose wines often have a charming rusticity. There’s no rusticity to the 2022 En Bessay. It’s just charm! A seamless combination of red fruit and spice, this mid-weight beauty reveals additional complexity as it sits in the glass, so this is not a wine to rush. Drinking window: 2024- 2035

Domaine Mount Bessay 2022 Juliénas Quatre Cerisiers Beaujolais 95

Mineral-y aromas are evident the minute your nose hits the glass. Firm—but not hard—and stoney, you can almost feel and taste the granite. It’s like no other Juliénas, more reminiscent of Morgon’s Côte de Py or the firmness of the Côte de Brouilly, but with the alluring spice of Juliénas and almost unbelievable suave texture. More structure, to be sure, than en Bessay, but a similar suave elegance cements the family resemblance. A juicy fruitiness emerges in the long finish. The Quatre Cerisiers and the En Bessay put the marvelous differences of the terroir of Juliénas into stark relief. Drinking window: 2025-2040.

Domaine Mount Bessay 2021 Juliénas En Bessay 93

The success of this, their first vintage, is either beginner’s luck, which I doubt, or more likely, careful selection since Marko performed the vinification. The stellar 2021 En Bessay delivers a delightful array of beautifully integrated red fruit and herbal flavors. A charming, slightly rustic, component still shows under a polished patina. A freshness in the finish amplifies its charms. Fine tannins provide support without intruding. Drinking window: 2024-2030.

Domaine Mount Bessay 2021 Moulin-à-Vent Le Vieux Bourg 92

The cooler 2021 vintage—harvest occurred a month later than in 2022—and the lighter soil in the Le Vieux Bourg lieu-dit explains why this lively Moulin-à-Vent is more engaging at this youthful stage than you’d might expect. Still, a charming dark minerality is readily apparent underneath a suave texture. Bright and balanced, this is a Moulin-à-Vent to enjoy now. Drinking window: 2024-2030.

Quality Mexican Wine? Surely, You Jest?

September 11, 2024 8:10 pm

Indeed, I do not. During a week-long family vacation to Mexico City over Christmas last year, we drank a range of intriguing and excellent wines from Mexico, along with Tequila, Mezcal and beer, of course. My takeaway message, in addition to finding some surprisingly good Sauvignon Blancs, Nebbiolos, and orange wines, was the seeming attitude of “let’s see what works.” Although the availability of Mexican wines in general is limited in the U.S., I am writing about them because many of the ones I tasted show the promise of what that country can produce. So, consumers should be aware of Mexican wines because we’re likely to see many more of them in the future.

At first glance it might seem that Mexico has too hot a climate for making fine wine. It’s true that too much heat is detrimental to making invigorating wine because the grapes lose their acidity as they get too ripe. The resulting wine is flabby and lacks energy. But look at Sicily or Greece, areas that produce plenty of terrific wines despite being famously southerly and hot in the European context. The way to mitigate the heat, be it in Sicily, Greece or Mexico, is to plant vines at higher—hence cooler—elevations or near the sea to take advantage of its cooling influences.

Mexico has both. Mexico City itself sits at over 7,000 feet above sea level and the wine-producing states sit at 10,000 feet above sea (asl), comparable to Mendoza in Argentina, where producers like Catena have refined the art of making sensational wine at high elevation. Mexico’s Guadeloupe Valley, the most well-known winemaking area in Baja California, sits about 20 miles from the Pacific Ocean, making it closer to the ocean than the Napa Valley. (More on those wines in the future from Michael Franz, my friend and colleague here at WRO).

So, if Mexico has the requisite geography, and some fine wines, as I discovered, why does it not have a thriving wine industry like Chile and Argentina, two other countries with Spanish influences? For a country to have a strong wine industry it either needs a robust domestic market, like Argentina, or a powerful export mentality, like Chile. Manuel Negrete, Wine Director, Wine Bar by Concours Mondiale de Bruxelles (CMB), explains that Mexico has neither. Even after Mexico achieved independence from Spain in 1821, the Mexicans maintained great animosity towards Spain, according to Negrete. Since drinking wine was associated with Spanish culture, it fell out of favor with the populace, who then turned to and embraced indigenous beverages, tequila and mezcal, in addition to beer. Unlike many European countries today, there is no government support for the wine industry in Mexico. High taxes on wine further discourage a robust domestic market.

Acreage devoted to grapes tells the story. When Cortez conquered Mexico in 1521, a decree required every person to plant 10 vines, which added up to more than a quarter of million acres. Acreage has since fallen to just over 20,000 acres planted to wine grapes, or about half the acreage devoted to grapes in the Napa Valley. Negrete explains that the situation is rapidly changing with great outside investment in vineyards. Over 5,000 acres have been planted in just the last two or three years. Next on the horizon will be designation of appellations, as in Europe and the U.S.

Wine drinking is becoming “cool,” as Manuel puts it, with per capita consumption up at least 5-fold over the last decade. In contrast to Europe, wine consumption in Mexico is rising, according to Negrete. He notes with a smile, “low alcohol [beverages] are not a trend here.”

Although Mexico claims the oldest functioning winery in the Americas, Casa Madero founded in 1597, Negrete notes that the modern Mexican wine industry dates only from the mid-1980s. Despite the absence of precise numbers, in part because of the lack of significant governmental help, according to Negrete, growers seem to have planted more Sauvignon Blanc than Chardonnay. Not surprisingly, Cabernet Sauvignon is the most planted red variety. As is common in a young industry, some producers still fall into the trap of thinking that oak aging equates with serious wine, so more than a few wines I tasted had a signature of oak. That said, the number of energetic, vibrant whites coming from a “hot” country was striking.

Since an appellation system has yet to be established, for now, consumers would benefit from a working knowledge of Mexican geography. Most importantly, of course, as always, is the mark of the producer. But let’s first start with an overview of where Mexican wines are produced.

Baja California, with its just over 11,000 acres of vines, is Mexico’s largest wine producing area. Within Baja, the Valle de Guadalupe accounts for two-thirds of the vines. Although many of Mexico’s wine-producing areas label themselves as a “valley” because of ease of marketing, Valle de Guadalupe actually is one, according to Manuel. He says it is rapidly becoming “Napafied,” with skyrocketing land prices, fancy hotels, and wine tourism. He notes that water scarcity remains an enormous problem there.

The state of Coahuila has poor limestone-rich soils ideal for vines and vineyards that sit at some 9,000 feet asl. Diurnal swings in temperature there can reach an astounding 77 degrees, which is perfect for preserving acidity in the grapes which translates into vibrancy in the wines. The soil and elevation likely explain why this state, bordering Texas with its 2,300 acres under vine, ranks as Mexico’s second most important area for fine wine. Manuel believes Coahuila will continue to grow and thrive because of its proximity to the city of Monterey, an important commercial hub, in the neighboring state of Nuevo León.

Querétaro, one of the high-altitude states in central Mexico, about 130 miles northwest of Mexico City, focuses on sparkling wine. Its challenge seems to be hail and unpredictable weather, according to Manuel.

Chihuahua, a state adjacent to and west of Coahuila, with barely 600 acres under vine, is poised to be a major player in the Mexican wine industry because 40 percent of its vines are less than five years old.

The state of Sonora, just to the west of Chihuahua and bordering Arizona, should be a good place for vines because, thanks to its location, there’s adequate water. However, Manuel explains that the narcotics business in that state makes people reluctant to invest there.

On to the wines.

Negrete set up a diverse tasting for me that showed the potential of the Mexican wine industry. Where available, I’ve listed the stated alcohol content in parenthesis (all but one under 14%), showing that a country with blazing sunshine can avoid overly alcoholic wines.

Sauvignon Blanc in Mexico has the same wide profile that it has around the world. Vinaltura, a winery in Querétaro founded by a German, Hans Duer, who moved to the area two decades ago, fashioned a ripe and chunky 2021 Sauvignon Blanc (13.3%) while G&G’s 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (12.7%) named for Gina Sommelier and Gusto Ortega, highlighted the zippy and fresh side of the varietal from their Baja-grown grapes.

Cava Quintanilla’s refined and delicate 2021 Gewürztraminer, “Laberinto” from San Luis Potosí, another high-altitude central Mexican state, shows the experimental, “let’s try anything mentality” attitude characteristic of the industry.

Full disclosure, I am not a fan of orange wines in general. That said, Rivero Gonzalez crafted one, the 2021 Naranja, from Riesling and Palomino grown in Coahuila and bottled it under his RG MX (Rivero Gonzalez Mexico) label. Despite a whopping 18.4 percent stated alcohol, it was graceful, with tannic funkiness left behind. Gonzalez also has a winery on the North Fork of Long Island, RG NY, where he makes an excellent array of wines.

The 2020 fruit-focused Pinot Noir, “Aristoteles,” by El Cielo (13%), G&G’s private label, is a good effort and shows the promise of Valle de Guadalupe.

Negrete tells me that Nebbiolo is popular in Mexico, although on closer inspection most of it is really Lambrusco, according to him. That said, the tarry and floral 2020 Nebbiolo “Sophie,” from Vinacola Santa Elena de Aguascalientes (13.3%) came across as the real thing.

Unsurprisingly, Tempranillo has found a home in Mexico and, like Sauvignon Blanc, comes in a range of styles, from the simple and quaffable 2020 Tempranillo Riserva from Hacienda San Miguel (13.5%) in Coahuila, to El Cielo’s more serious and complex 2019 “Galileo” (13.6%) from Baja.

Of course, any nascent wine industry will try their hand at the big-time reds, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Syrah. In Mexico there’s a range from the fruity and slightly sweet finishing 2021 Cavall 5 (13.6%), a blend of Merlot, Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon grown in Chihuahua, to Parvada’s well balanced and alluring 2020 “Selección del Enólogo” (13.8%) made from Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the Valle de Parras, a real valley, in Coahuila.

From the Valle de Guadalupe, the juicy, vanilla-tinged 2018 Merlot from Ruber Cardinal (13.2%) shows the lingering effect of aging in American oak barrels, while the big and bold 2015 Tierra Adentro Grand Reserva 50/50 blend of Malbec and Syrah shows the potential of these varieties grown in Zacatecas, a state in north central Mexico that sits at just over 8,000 feet ASL.

For wine enthusiasts or for those who just want to learn about wines, Mexican wines included, head to Wine Bar by Concours Mondiale de Bruxelles, located a minute’s walk from the Marriott Reforma in the center of Mexico City at Copenhague 23, Juarez. CMB, founded in 1994, organizes and runs a series of wine competitions that are among the most prestigious in the world. In addition to attracting thousands of entrants from all over the world, one of the unique aspects of CMB’s competitions is that they judge the judges. Let me explain. A panel of five judges, each from a different country, assess a group of 10 or so wines “blind,” that is, no one knows the label, and assigns each wine a score and a tasting note. The CMB organizers will sometimes, unannounced, insert the same wine twice in a flight of wines and assess how the individual judges score and describe it. Those judges who don’t score and describe the two wines similarly won’t be invited back. Let me assure you, it keeps the judges focused on all the wines all the time! And helps explain why the awards are coveted by producers.

Wine Bar by CMB, their new endeavor and established in Mexico City in 2020, highlights the award-winning wines from their competitions. It’s an extremely comfortable setting in which guests can taste, casually or intensively, a range of top-quality wines, mingle, and eat. My thanks to Manuel Negrete and Wine Bar CMB in Mexico City for putting together this tasting and educating me about the wines of Mexico.

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E-mail me at [email protected] if you’ve ever had a Mexican wine and follow me on X (formerly Twitter) and Instagram @MichaelApstein.

September 11, 2024

From Decanter Magazine: Drinking wine with meals linked to better health outcomes

September 6, 2024 6:16 pm

Public health officials and scientists continue to debate whether moderate drinking is harmful or beneficial. There is no debate that heavy drinking or binge drinking is harmful to health. Both are.

In the late 20th century, there was a flurry of studies that showed—and a 60-Minutes television segment that popularised the idea—that moderate drinking protected the heart.

Recent studies have questioned the cardioprotective effect of alcohol and indeed some note that any amount of alcohol increases the risk of developing cancer and is harmful to health.

A major problem with studies regarding alcohol and health is that they rarely distinguish the type of alcohol consumed—wine, beer, or spirits—and the pattern of drinking, that is, with or outside of meals.

Those factors are critically important because the type of alcohol consumed and the setting in which it is consumed affects the blood alcohol level, which is what likely drives the effects of alcohol, be them potentially beneficial or harmful to health.

Now, we have an important and well-done study that addresses these factors.

Drinking wine or drinking wine with meals was associated with lower overall death rates, and with lower death rates specifically from cancer and cardiovascular disease, according to a recently published study by investigators from Spain and the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health.

The study, published in JAMA Network Open, analysed drinking habits of 135,000 UK residents above the age of 60 using data from the UK Biobank, a health registry.

The authors wanted to see the effect of alcohol use on frail older individuals and those with lower socioeconomic status.

Not surprisingly, they found that frail individuals and those from lower socioeconomic status had a great overall chance of dying if they drank alcohol, and a greater chance of dying from cancer or from cardiovascular disease. The more they drank, the higher their risk of death from all causes, as well as from cancer and cardiovascular disease.

What was surprising was when they looked at individuals who drank mostly wine and who drank wine with meals. Wine drinking and drinking only during meals offset the increased risk in frail individuals and those from lower socioeconomic status.

Furthermore, in individuals who were not frail nor in lower socioeconomic classes, wine drinking or drinking only during meals was associated with a reduced risk of death from all causes, as well as from cancer and from cardiovascular disease.

Although the alcohol in wine is the same chemically as the alcohol in vodka or other spirits, the amount that reaches the blood stream depends on the setting in which it is consumed and the concentration of it in the beverage.

Even with rising alcohol levels in wine due to using riper grapes, wine still has a lower concentration of alcohol compared to spirits. And wine is typically consumed over a longer period of time and with meals, both of which will moderate blood alcohol levels.

So, it makes sense that individuals who drink mostly wine or do so with meals, and presumably have lower blood alcohol levels, have better health outcomes compared to individuals with different patterns of alcohol use.

It’s important to point out that this study, like most, only point out associations. They do not establish cause and effect. You cannot conclude from this study that drinking wine with meals will reduce death from all causes, as well as cancer and cardiovascular disease.

Whether the reduction is death is due to wine per se or the type of person who drinks wine moderately with meals — a person who is typically more affluent and may have better overall health habits in general — is still unknown.

Nonetheless, it’s an association that should make wine drinkers smile.

Michael Apstein, MD, FACG, is a wine writer, Decanter contributor and assistant professor of medicine (Gastroenterology) at Harvard Medical School.

Embrace Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc from Alsace

August 14, 2024 1:40 pm

Wines from Alsace are labeled by grape, not place, which makes them unique among top quality AOC (appellation origine controllée) French wines. The French label all other top-quality AOC wines by place name—where the grapes grown—Chablis, Bordeaux, Sancerre, Pouilly-Fuissé—to name just four of the hundreds of names. Alsace, by contrast, uses varietal labeling, grape names—Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir—nomenclature that we Americans are familiar with and understand.

This labeling, along with the high quality of the wines, should make Alsace wines extremely popular in the U.S. Retailers, however, tell me that these wines, inexplicably, do not fly off the shelves. Consumers wonder whether the wines will be sweet or dry, which is a reasonable question since many Alsace wines come in both styles. The traditional, tall, sloped green bottle doesn’t help because some consumers mistake them for German wines, which have a reputation for sweetness. The bottle shape, unsurprisingly, is a matter of economics. Historically, German and Alsace wines were shipped via boat on the Rhine, which meant the bottle did not need to be as sturdy as those shipped over land. As a result, these bottles didn’t need a punt (the depression in the base) that strengthens them, allowing them to be packed more tightly.

I attended a tasting of Alsace wines in New York this past spring that included a stunning array of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir wines, two varieties that are often overlooked. Accounting for only about 12 percent of the region’s plantings, it’s easy to see why Pinot Noir is overlooked. Much of what is planted goes into sparkling Crémant d’Alsace Rosé, which must be made exclusively from that variety. So, it’s not surprising there’s not a lot of it on retailers’ shelves. While I found, predictably, many stunning examples of racy Riesling, Alsace’s most important grape, it was Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir that surprised me the most. And, I might add, at very good prices. These two varieties reinforce my advice to consumers: It is time to overcome any apprehension about Alsace wines and step up for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Although the wines are labeled by variety, growers in Alsace, like growers all over France, know that some sites have the potential to produce better wines than others. In the 1970s, French wine regulators finally got around to identifying 51 top sites in Alsace based on terroir and awarded them Grand Cru status. These sites have the potential to produce even more noteworthy wines but represent only about three percent of Alsace production. But let me assure you, there are plenty of non-Grand Cru wines from Alsace worthy of your attention. Moreover, consumers will not see Grand Cru on any bottle of Pinot Blanc and on only a rare Pinot Noir grown in just three vineyards, Kirchberg de Barr, Hengst, and most recently, Vorbourg (and even then starting only with the 2022 vintage). Only Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Muscat can carry the Grand Cru moniker. Other varieties are thought not to be “noble” enough. The initial exclusion of Pinot Noir was, as so many things are, all about politics, not about quality. Antoine Schutz from Domaine Ruhlmann-Schutz explains that to get the Burgundians to accept a Grand Cru classification system in Alsace, they had to agree not to allow any Pinot Noir to carry that designation!

The soils in Alsace are varied due to the pre-historic collapse of a land mass that extended from the Vosges mountains through Germany’s Black Forest. The resulting vineyards and the jumble of soils that include limestone and granite lie on the slopes of the Vosges mountains and cascade down to the Rhine River Valley and explain why a variety of styles of wine exist.

Pinot Noir grown on granite “helps with acidity,” according to Marine Claude, from Domaine Kirrenbourg, whose fragrant and exciting 2021 Cuvée Mathieu is striking evidence that Alsace can produce stellar Pinot Noir. She explains that the acidity imparted by the granite soil helps offset the loss due to climate change. She continues, “Heat (from climate change) gives us the maturity we lacked. Thanks to global warming we can make better wine.” She emphasizes that, “We want to produce according to our terroir. The point is not to look like Burgundy.” Her explanation squares with my experience. Decades ago, Pinot Noir from Alsace was—more often than not—light and conspicuously lacking in density. Now, growers get good ripeness and complexity while preserving Pinot Noir’s delicate aromas and finesse.

Like Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc has seen a transformation recently from light and innocuous wines to ones with good density and vivacity. It’s not clear to me whether the change is a result of a warming climate or modifications growers are making. In any case, Pinot Blanc has gone from a wine to ignore to a wine to embrace.

Pinot Blanc, a less aromatic variety compared to Riesling or Gewürztraminer, typically still has a delicate and alluring floral aspect. While light and fresh, the best have subtle nuances of stone fruit buttressed by lively acidity. Wines labeled Pinot Blanc can contain a related grape, Auxerrois, which growers like because it ripens early, which means it avoids being ruined by fall rains. In the blend, it adds substance while moderating Pinot Blanc’s acidity.

On to recommendations.

There’s a bounty of good Pinot Blanc wines from the marvelous 2022 vintage. Domaine Barmès-Buecher’s vibrant (certified biodynamic) 2022 Pinot Blanc “Rosenberg” exemplifies the balance of subtle pear-like flavors with enlivening, but not screeching, acidity. It could easily serve double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or to accompany grilled fish (91 points, $36).

Domaine Josmeyer’s cheery 2022 Pinot Blanc “Mise du Printemps,” also a certified biodynamic wine, may be lighter in weight but not in enjoyment and will certainly cut through summer’s heat and humidity. (92 pts., $27). Josmeyer, always one of my favorite producers, also bottled a stunning 2020 Auxerrois “H” Vieilles Vignes whose weight and stone-y complexity reflects its bottle age and inclusion of grapes from old vines (93 pts., $50).

Léon Beyer’s floral and fresh 2022 Pinot Blanc, planted on a clay limestone soil, delivers a touch of attractive bitterness in its lengthy finish. It’s a serious wine that makes you reconsider any preconceived notions of innocuous Pinot Blanc (93 pts., $26).

Meyer Fonné opts to include Auxerrois and a touch of Pinot Gris is their pretty and packed 2022 Pinot Blanc. Weighing in at less than 13 percent stated alcohol, it delivers amazing depth without heaviness, all supported and amplified by cutting acidity. It punches far above its price (93 pts., $25).

Speaking of punching above price, Domaine Specht’s elegant 2022 Pinot Blanc dances on the palate, delivering a bright mouthful of minerals and subtle stone fruits at a modest 12 percent stated alcohol. Fine as an aperitif, it has sufficient weight to hold up to all but the most flavorful seafood (92 pts., $19).

Turning to Pinot Noir:

Although the Pinot Noir grapes came from Grand Cru vineyards, the stunning 2021 Domaine Kirrenbourg “Cuvée Mathieu,” won’t carry that accolade on the label until the 2022 vintage because of the aforementioned regulations. Grand Cru may not be on the label, but it’s certainly in the bottle of this fragrant and layered beauty. This biodynamic beauty combines power and finesse (95 pts., $68).

Trimbach, one the region’s best and most well-known producers, unsurprisingly, excels with their stylish 2021 Pinot Noir Réserve. They achieve a seamless and harmonious mix of bright red fruit accented by savory notes, all enrobed in fine tannins. This light and elegant Pinot Noir would be a good choice for grilled salmon this summer (92 pts., $32).

From vines that are between 35 and 50 years old and planted on granite soil, Domaine Hurst fashion a lush 2022 Pinot Noir “Vieilles Vignes.” Subtle savory elements offset the ripe red and black fruit flavors in this biodynamically made wine. A suave texture means you can enjoy this mid-weight this summer (92 pts., $34).

Domaine Barmès-Buecher’s lively 2022 Pinot Noir Réserve is the real deal. Fragrant with an impeccable combination of bright red fruit and spicy savory nuances, the biodynamically-made wine sings. Aging on the lees for about a year in old (10-15 year) oak barrels enhances its appeal without introducing any interfering woody notes (94 pts., $42).

The finesse-filled 2020 Pinot Noir Réserve from Meyer Fonné shows how a couple of years of bottle age enriches Alsace Pinot Noir. A delicate, but not vapid, impression of red cherries melds with earthy elements in this well-balanced beauty. A suave texture permits enjoyment without further aging (92 pts., $34).

If you run across the enticingly fragrant 2021 Pinot Noir “Les Jardins” from Domaine Ostertag, grab it. An array of bright red fruit mingles with savory spices. Succulent but not heavy, it captures the oft too elusive “flavor without weight” of great Pinot Noir. Its silky texture allows you to serve it with grilled salmon this summer or a hearty roast chicken and mushroom sauce this fall (95 pts., $42).

Made from organic grapes and weighing in at a modest 12 percent stated alcohol, the lithe Domaines Schlumberger 2021 Pinot Noir “Les Princes Abbés” dances on the palate. Like the head of Janus, it displays both the aromatic red fruitiness and leafy nuances, the hallmark of fine Pinot Noir (92 pts., $28).

After 30 years, the still fresh 1993 Pinot Noir “F” from Domaine Paul Blanck shows how well Alsace Pinot Noir can develop. Subtle, but alluring, savory notes predominate in this gracefully framed wine. A touch of fine tannins provides just the right amount of structure to this long and herb-laden wine without intruding (94 pts., price n/a).

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E-mail me your thoughts about Alsace wines in general or Alsace Pinot Blanc and Alsace Pinot Noir in specific at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein

August 14, 2024

Look to the Rhône for Summertime Drinking

July 17, 2024 10:22 am

My friends say that I hate rosé. I don’t. I just think there are many far more interesting alternatives. (Here, we’re talking about still wine, not rosé Champagne, which is heavenly.) Most rosé is innocuous. “I’ll have a glass of rosé,” has replaced “I’ll have a glass of Chardonnay” as shorthand for “I want a glass of wine—I don’t need to know anything else about it.” That’s its problem for me. When I drink wine, I want complexity. I want a little intrigue or surprise. I want to think about what I’m putting in my mouth. Sure, I want a zippy wine that refreshes, especially in the heat of summer. Chilling light reds and many vibrant whites provide both refreshment and character, something I find lacking in most rosé wines. So, having just spent 10-days on a family vacation in Provence where we drank not a drop of rosé, allows me to offer alternatives to enjoy this summer. All of them are refreshing and bright. None are heavy or ponderous.

My suggestions below can serve as aperitif-type wines that can be enjoyed by themselves but have enough pizzaz to stand up to and cut through even hearty summertime fare.

Let’s start with the whites.

In my decades of drinking white wine, there has been no bigger change in character—for the better—than the white wines from the Rhône Valley. They’ve become far livelier. Certainly, that’s true for wines from the well-known Côtes du Rhône appellation. But that’s also true for two appellations that often fly under readers’ radar, the Luberon and the Ventoux, that are included under the Rhône Valley umbrella, despite being located geographically in Provence. In addition, look for whites from Costières de Nîmes and the relatively new appellation, Duché d’Uzès.

Unexpectedly, given climate change, the white wines from these Rhône appellations have gotten brighter and fresher, aspects that balance their alluring stone fruit and aromatic nuances. I don’t know whether producers have modified their blends, slightly increasing the proportion of varieties that contribute acidity or whether in response to warming climate they are harvesting earlier, which is another way to preserve acidity. Or maybe something else is at work. In any case, look for wines from these appellations for summertime drinking.

The blend of grapes that may be included in these Rhône Valley wines can be staggering—this is not a one-horse show—and helps explain the allure of the wines. I’ve listed the blends in the wines I single out below, so that readers can appreciate the diversity of grapes that growers use. And note how many come from organic grapes or vineyards that are farmed biodynamically, a real trend in the Rhône.

Additionally, for those who want to drink interesting wines this summer without breaking the bank (and who among us doesn’t?) look to the Rhône Valley. None of the recommended wines should cost more than $25 retail.

As you’ll see, some of the wines I’ve recommended are not yet be available in the U.S. In those instances, I’ve listed what winesearcher.com calls a “worldwide” price just to give consumers an idea of what the wines might cost in the U.S. Even those that are imported may not be in national distribution, so they may be available only in limited markets. If you cannot find these wines, search WRO’s database by appellation for other recommendations, or ask your retailer for other wines from these appellations.

There’s a trio of appellations—Côte du Rhône, Côtes du Rhone-Villages, and Côtes du Rhône-Villages appended with a named village—that offer particularly good value. There are about 20 villages, two of which are Visan and Saint Maurice, that have the potential of making more distinctive wines. They are entitled to link their name to the Côtes du Rhone-Villages appellation. Over time, some of these villages will be “promoted” to Cru status on a level with Gigondas, Vacqueryas, and Châteauneuf du Pape, as authorities realize the elevated quality of the wines. That means that many of them, such as Domaine La Florane’s Visan or their Saint Maurice, punch above their weight class already. The really good news is that the price of these wines has not caught up with their quality—yet.

Domaine La Florane’s energetic 2023 Côtes du Rhône-Villages Visan “À Fleur” is a perfect example. This mid-weight lively white—a blend of biodynamically-farmed Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc, Picpoul and Clairette—refreshes as a stand-alone aperitif while having sufficient oomph to cut through hearty Mediterranean fare on the table. A delicate and alluring hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces its stature. (94 points, $19 for the 2022)

The vibrant 2023 white Côtes du Rhône “La Solitude” from Famille Lançon, who makes delicious and noteworthy Châteauneuf du Pape, delivers subtle stone fruit richness buttressed by wonderfully refreshing acidity. It has good weight without being heavy. A blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, and Clairette (93 pts., $18)

Though most wines labeled Côtes du Rhône hail from the southern part of the Rhône Valley, some, such as one from Stephane Ogier, a top Côte Rôtie producer, can come from the northern part of the Valley, near his Côte Rôtie base. Ogier’s vibrant white 2022 “Le Temps est Venu” delivers minerals, a hint of stone fruit flavors, and riveting acidity. (93 pts., NA in U.S., Worldwide price $12)

I couldn’t believe the price of the bright and fresh 2022 Mas des Bressades’ “Tradition” bottling from the Costières de Nîmes, a small appellation on the west side of the Rhône River. The blend of the usual suspects—Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, and Viognier—delivers unusual depth, impeccably balanced, by uplifting vibrancy. Stock up! (93 pts., $13)

The Duché d’Uzès appellation, barely a decade old, also lies on the western bank of the Rhône, about an hour west of Avignon. It mandates the usual array of Mediterranean grapes for its reds and whites. Organically grown Viognier and Grenache Blanc imbue the floral and fresh 2021 Domaine Deleuze-Rochetin’s “Harmattan” with impeccable balance. It delivers depth without heaviness. (91 pts., NA in U.S., Worldwide price $13)

Domaine de la Citadelle’s 2021 lively white, “Les Arètems,” from the Luberon and made with organic grapes, delivers nuances of stone fruit while remaining fresh and zippy even with a few years of age under its belt. A blend of Clairette, Rolle, Roussane, and Marsanne. (90 pts., NA in U.S., Worldwide price $17)

Domaine de la Pousterle’s charming 2020 “Cuvée Isabelle” from the Luberon uses Grenache Blanc and Vermentino (a.k.a. Rolle) from their oldest vines to make a racy white with delicate stone fruit character amplified by an uplifting hint of bitter almonds in finish. (90 pts., $24)

Now, on to the reds.

Do not overlook light red wines for summer’s drinking pleasure. Many red wines should not be fully chilled because lowering the temperature can accentuate the tannins, making them bitter. So, for summertime drinking, avoid the sturdy Syrah-based wines from the north, such as Hermitage and Côte Rôtie. Save those for the chill of fall or the snows of winter. Embrace chillable reds, those with mild or no tannins, which is precisely why reds sporting the Côtes du Rhône appellation fit the bill. Herbal notes complement their fruitiness without a dense tannic structure. Good acidity keeps them fresh and lively. In a word, they’re perfect for chilling this summer to accompany most anything coming off the grill.

Domaine de la Mordorée, a fully organic and biodynamically farmed estate located in Lirac (another appellation on the Rhône’s western bank) makes a fabulous array of wines. Their splendid and racy Côtes du Rhône 2021, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault, is a delight to drink now. Fresh and spicy, it has a healthy dose of what I like to call, “not just fruit” character that actually amplifies its fresh strawberry-like flavors. (94 pts., $23)

I was so taken with Domaine La Florane’s white Côte du Rhône-Villages Visan (above) that I ordered their wines whenever I saw them on a wine list. Domaine La Florane’s mid-weight 2022 Côte du Rhône-Villages Saint Maurice is a good choice for chilling because of its mild tannic structure, even though as a named village higher on the hierarchy of appellations. Though slightly more substantial than those labeled simply Côtes du Rhône, its marvelous balance of red fruit and spice without a trace of heaviness makes it easy to love. It would be an excellent match for grilled leg of lamb or other hearty grilled meats this summer. (93 pts., $25)

It should come as no surprise that Chapoutier, a leading and top producer in the Rhône Valley, makes a delicious Côtes du Rhône, labeled “Belleruche.” The supple and chillable 2021 charms you immediately with the right balance of bright red fruit and pepper-like spice. (91pts., $16)

I am very familiar with the fine wines from Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, a small cooperative (10 members at last count) because we rented a house a stone’s throw from their winery for many summers. Their buoyant 2022 Côtes du Rhône, bottled under their Tarapas label, is a delight slightly chilled. A spicy blend of organically grown Grenache, Syrah, Carignan makes it the perfect “pizza wine.” (91 pts., $20)

Domaine La Florane’s lively 2022 Côtes du Rhône “À Fleur” 2022, a light red blend of usual Rhône red grapes—Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Carignan—farmed biodynamically, marries bright brambly fruit and mild tannins. Slightly chilled, it’s a perfect choice for this summer’s BBQs. (90 pts., $20)

Another fine cooperative, Vignerons Laudun Chuslan, bottles an attractive Côtes du Rhône labeled “Enfant Terrible.” With its mild tannins, the bright and zesty 2022 is great chilled. Its price will make many friends. (88 pts., $14)

Expand your summer drinking habits. Trust me, any of these will be more satisfying than most rosés.

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E-mail me at [email protected] and tell me what wines you drink in the summer. Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein

July 17, 2024

Terroir in Barolo: Poderi Gianni Gagliardo

June 5, 2024 2:28 pm

There’s no question that terroir—the concept that wines reflect the individual and unique site where the grapes grow—exists in Barolo. How could it not? With myriad growing plots differing by soil, exposure, and elevation, the Barolo DOCG produces hundreds of different wines, all from the same grape, Nebbiolo. The problem lies in demonstrating the idea of terroir to the average consumer. Here’s the issue. You can open and compare a Barolo made by Vietti from Nebbiolo grown in Serralunga to one made by Mascarello from Nebbiolo in Castiglione Faletto. They will be dramatically different. But is the difference due to the terroir—the difference between the two communes of Serralunga and Castiglione Faletto—or due to the difference in producer’s style and technique? The challenge in identifying terroir, then, is finding and comparing wines made from grapes grown in different sites but made by the same producer. It’s more difficult to do in Barolo, compared to Burgundy, but it can be done, as shown by Stefano Gagliardo, from Poderi Gianni Gagliardo.

Even before Burgundy (or Bourgogne as it is in the native French) received UNESCO World Heritage Site status for its patchwork of vineyards, it was the poster child for terroir. The traditional way Burgundy wines were marketed, by négociants, explains why it was, and remains, the paradigm of terroir. The major négociants, such as Maison Louis Jadot, Maison Louis Latour, and Maison Joseph Drouhin, to name just three, make wines from scores of vineyards and villages from throughout Burgundy. Importantly, they use the same basic winemaking philosophy and techniques for each of the wines. So, the average consumer can descend into their cellars, taste 10 or 20 wines from throughout the entire region, from Santenay in the south to Marsannay in the north and more specifically from vineyards within each village, and immediately see the dramatic differences the sites bring to the wines because the winemaking is a constant. Contrast that to the situation in Barolo. Most of the production there comes from small growers who make and market 3 or 4 wines from individual plots, usually near their wineries and homes, not from throughout the entire region.

Poderi Gianni Gagliardo is different because the house holds vineyards throughout the entire Barolo DOCG, from Monvigliero in Verduno in the very north to Mosconi and Castelletto in Monforte d’ Alba in the extreme south, to Fossati, which spans both Barolo itself and La Morra in the west, to Lazzarito in Serralunga d’Alba in the far eastern section of the DOCG. Stefano emphasizes that the winemaking, barrel treatment and aging is the same from all his wines so that the differences you taste are due to the specifics of the site—the terroir. Tasting through a selection of Gagliardo’s 2020 shows that terroir is alive and well in Barolo.

By way of advance warning, the wines are stunning, making it hard to pick among them! Do you want to enjoy the relatively delicate Monvigliero now or cellar the more strapping Lazzarito? One of the reasons the wines are so impressive is likely because Stefano bottles only a portion of the wine from the individual crus. He notes, with a smile, “There’s always a special corner” in each cru. He blends the rest into their classic Barolo.

First a word about the 2020 vintage in Barolo. It was, unsurprisingly these days, hot, but unlike many hot years, the wines still reflect their origins. The site differences are still clearly etched, not blurred by over-ripe grapes. Some growers attribute the seeming paradox of heat and transparency to the lack of heat spikes during the growing season. Others felt that the lack of water stress usually present in scorching years allowed the grapes to mature continuously without the stopping and starting caused by stress of drought.

Whatever the reasons, Gagliardo’s 2020s are fresh and lively, reflecting their origins in a crystal-clear fashion. For the most part, the Mosconi and Lazzarito excepted, they are forward and amazingly easy to taste, even at this youthful stage, with suave tannins and bright acidity. Don’t let their approachability dissuade you from cellaring them because I’m sure they will take on additional complexity with bottle age thanks to their flawless balance.

Stefano and his team regularly travel to Roussillon in France to learn how growers there deal with heat and drought. He explains that changes in the vineyard and in the cellar can help mitigate the effects of climate change. Altering the cover crop between the rows of vines can actually lower the temperature of the vines. Stefano emphasizes that it is critically important to protect the grapes whose tannins can become bitter with exposure to heat and especially to light. So, they will spray the grapes with a white powdery mixture of clay and water that acts like sunscreen. He’s using less aging in the cellar because the grapes are typically riper when they arrive.

While Gagliardo’s floral 2020 Barolo from the Monvigliero cru is the most delicate of their cru bottlings, it still delivers substantial weight. A beguiling and distinct mineral-y component balances and enhances its floral nature. Suave tannins lend support without intruding. It’s quite delicious now! ( 93 pts., $220)

Stefano emphasizes that the Fossati cru, spanning both the communes of Barolo and La Morra, is a cool site where Nebbiolo never gets overripe. Their stunning 2020 delivers dark red fruit nuances mixed with an appealing floral character. Subtle tarry elements and firm, fine tannins explain why its profile is more substantial than their Monvigliero. Still, it’s a refined wine with great finesse, which makes this beauty enjoyable even at this youthful stage. (96 pts., $180)

The Castelletto and Mosconi crus, both located in Monforte d’Alba, couldn’t be more different. They are the bookends to the style of that village. Stefano explains that Castelletto lies on the border with Serralunga and that its soil is akin to that of Serralunga, but its exposure, cooler east-facing instead of warmer south/southwest facing, is not. The soil imparts power while the exposure adds restraint and elegance. The breathtaking 2020 Castelletto is truly an iron fist in a velvet glove with a floral start culminating in a panoply of minerals. The tannins in the Castelletto provide a touch more structure compared to those found in Fossati yet are perfectly integrated making the Castelletto agreeable now. (96 pts.; $180)

Gagliardo’s muscular 2020 Barolo from what Stefano describes as the warmer Mosconi cru packs the power and weight for which Monforte is known. Although the measured tannins of Castelletto and Mosconi are the same, according to Stefano, their imprints on the wines are strikingly different, giving the Mosconi bottling a far more structured and youthful profile. With time in the glass, the tarry aspect of its minerality emerges. Unlike the Castelletto, this wonderfully youthful Barolo needs far more bottle age to reveal itself. (96 pts., $220)

The Lazzarito Cru is one of Barolo’s most revered. Both Ian D’Agata and Michele Longo, two experts on Italian wine in general and Barolo in particular, rank it among their top ten Barolo sites. (Barolo fans should not miss their comprehensive and authoritative book, Barolo Terroir: Grapes, Crus, People, Places, 2022.) Stefano explains that he focuses on elegance, not power in all of his wine. Of the 12 owners of Lazzarito, he aims to make his, from his Vigna Preve site that sits high on a ridge, the most elegant and the least powerful of them all. That said, Gagliardo’s majestic 2020 packs plenty of power with an enthralling interplay of tarry minerality intertwined with flowery elements. It’s tightly wound, befitting a young great wine, with exceptionally fine and smooth tannins, which seem to be Gagliardo’s signature. This impeccably balanced youthful Lazzarito has a fine future. I suggest cellaring it for at least a decade. (96 pts., $220)

Poderi Gianni Gagliardo, one of the DOCG’s top producers, shows that the concept of terroir thrives in Barolo. Open their wines and you, too, will find it.

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June 5, 2024

E-mail me your thoughts about terroir in general or Barolo in particular at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein.

From Decanter Magazine: Capezzana’s Trefiano: Quintessential Carmignano

May 24, 2024 10:08 pm

To celebrate the 40th anniversary of Trefiano – Tenuta di Capezzana’s stunning take on Carmignano Riserva – a vertical tasting of a handful of vintages ranging from 1988 to 2019 (the current release) was held in Florence this February.

In preparation for the tasting, I opened a bottle of the 2015 from my own cellar, so I have included my impression of that below, along with the wines from the tasting. Spoiler alert: Trefiano, like other great wines, takes at least a decade to reveal its considerable charms and stature.

Carmignano, the original ‘Super Tuscan’, is the only DOCG that has always required blending Sangiovese with Cabernet, with Sangiovese comprising at least 50% of the blend. Cabernet — either Franc or Sauvignon — must comprise at least 10% but no more than 20%. Today, most producers favour Cabernet Sauvignon over Cabernet Franc.

Although Carmignano falls within the greater Chianti area and the same grapes can be used for the wines, Carmignano typically displays more structure, minerality, and savoury features, along with a panoply of red and dark fruit flavours.

Of the 20 or so producers in this small, 116-hectare DOCG, Tenuta di Capezzana – owned by the Contini Bonacossi family – is at the top of the heap. Filippo Contini Bonacossi, who describes his role at the estate as, ‘a little bit of everything,’ explains that their location in front of the Apennines affords them rain in late August, which he says, ‘is precious for elegant wines,’ adding that their ‘microclimate of wind and rain is crucial.’ He emphasises the water-holding ability of the clay in the soil, which has been especially helpful in the last few dry vintages.

Winemakers use their best grapes for Carmignano Riserva, which must be aged for three years before release – a year longer than for Carmignano. With more structure and wood influence, Riservas need more bottle aging to show their grandeur, making them good candidates for the cellar.

Villa di Trefiano

The grapes for Capezzana’s Trefiano Carmignano Riserva come from a small five-hectare site that surrounds the villa of the same name, built in the 16th century by Florentine aristocrat, Giovanni di Pandolfo Rucellai.

The Contini Bonacossi family acquired Villa di Trefiano and its vines shortly after purchasing Tenuta di Capezzana in the 1920s. The site includes three distinct parcels: two larger ones, Le Croci and Pietraia; and a smaller one named after the villa itself. Here, all three varieties used for Trefiano are grown: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo.

Filippo points to the need to continue working on softening Sangiovese’s tannins, whose firmness can be accentuated when the grape is stressed by heat and dryness. He explains that the Cabernet Sauvignon vines originally came from Château Lafite-Rothschild and are a massale selection. With a broad smile he says: ‘Plants know how to evolve, better than we! They have a memory.’

Hector Contini Bonacossi, whose mother, Benedetta, is the estate’s winemaker, notes that their Canaiolo is a unique biotype, Canaiolo Rossa Raspo, named because the stalks (raspo, in Italian) are red. It adds colour, and its lower acidity balances and enhances the cherry-like fruitiness of Sangiovese, and they believe it adds elegance to the wine.

He describes the site as having a, ‘chaotic soil composition, which enhances the different notes in the glass,’ while Beatrice Contini Bonacossi, the commercial face and ambassador of the estate, underlines the uniqueness of the site by describing it as a ‘microclimate within a microclimate.’

Trefiano in the cellar

Since 2008, Trefiano has been farmed organically, and the entire Capezzana estate received organic certification in 2015. Since the varieties ripen at different times, they are fermented separately, always using native yeasts, before being blended.

The blend is consistent from year to year: 80% Sangiovese, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo each contributing 10%. Ageing occurs in 350-litre tonneaux, equally split between new and one-year-old wood, for around 18 months, depending on the vintage. The average production ranges from 6,000 to 12,000 bottles.

Capezzana opts to bottle Trefiano only in the best years, which means, since its introduction in 1979, they’ve bottled it 28 times – roughly once every three years on average.

At the tasting

One of the best lessons learnt from a vertical tasting is to see when the wines enter their window of drinkability, which, of course, is personal and different for everybody. For me, the 2008 Trefiano was drinking beautifully. For many of the others at the tasting it was the 2012 – it’s personal preference.

In 2019, Beatrice told me that Trefiano was her brother Vittorio’s idea. He had died tragically a year earlier at only 66. To honour him, ‘Vittorio Contini Bonacossi’ appears on the label above ‘Trefiano’. His daughter, Serena told me: ‘The soul of my father is in this wine.’

A taste of Trefiano:

Wines are listed oldest to youngest

Capezzana, Trefiano, Carmignano, Riserva, Tuscany 1988
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2026
Haunting and engaging aromas from this brick-hued wine predict greatness – and it doesn’t disappoint! A wondrous and seamless combination of leafy notes of evolution with fresh and dried fruits emerge. A mature wine, to be sure, but a fresh and lively one that actually expands as it sits in the glass. Suave and warming, its silky tannins and bright acidity provide structure to this graceful beauty without a hint of astringency. Glossy, warming and exceptionally long, it’s an extraordinary wine that’s still going strong at 35 years of age (and just 12.8% alcohol). Points: 98

Capezzana, Trefiano, Carmignano, Riserva, Tuscany 1998
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2030
Benedetta took over from her father as winemaker starting with the 1998 vintage. Reflective of a warmer vintage, weighing in at 14.4 % alcohol, this riper and plummier 1998 Trefiano displays fewer savoury and more fruity notes compared to the 1988. Mature nuances are apparent, however, adding complexity, and the texture has the hallmark Capezzana glossiness. Bright and enlivening acidity provides welcome energy and keeps the wine in balance. Points: 91

Capezzana, Trefiano, Carmignano, Riserva, Tuscany 2008
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2040
Subtle smoky notes add allure to the robust and energetic 2008. Youthfully vigorous, it is easy to savour now because the well-integrated, fine tannins give it a silky texture. Hints of both red and black fruits combine with mineral nuances in this bold beauty. Harmonious, lip-smacking acidity amplifies the finish and keeps you coming back for another sip. Points: 96

Capezzana, Trefiano, Carmignano, Riserva, Tuscany 2012
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2045
At a decade-plus of age, the still-youthful 2012 displays both charm and stature. Its succulent fruit profile dominates at this stage, but the underlying mineral and savoury components emerge as it sits in the glass. Remarkably suave tannins provide structure to this weighty wine without being intrusive. As with the 2008, enlivening acidity on the finish amplifies the wine’s beauty. Points: 94

Capezzana, Trefiano, Carmignano, Riserva, Tuscany 2015
Drinking Window: 2027 – 2045
Savoury notes that emanate from the glass, along with its bricky colour, suggest maturity, but the 2015’s youthfulness is still apparent on the palate. An appealing tarriness complements its cherry-like fruitiness and adds complexity. A hint of bitterness on the finish adds to the appeal of this still-developing wine. Points: 93

Capezzana, Trefiano, Carmignano, Riserva, Tuscany 2019
Drinking Window: 2029 – 2050
Fabulous fruity aromatics of red cherries leap from the glass and belie the wine’s tightly coiled structure – but the elegance cannot be hidden, shining through its youthful frame, which supports its concentration. Impeccably balanced, the stunning 2019 has power without going overboard. The 14.5% alcohol is perfectly integrated and not out of place, and its harmony predicts a spectacular development of this quintessential ‘iron fist in a velvet glove’. Points: 96

Chianti Classico: A Perennial Favorite

April 30, 2024 1:16 pm

Tasting through hundreds of Chianti Classico wines from the 2020, 2021,

and 2022 vintages over two days reminded me why Chianti Classico is, justifiably, so popular around the world. The setting for the tastings was the venerable — and quite enormous — train station in Florence where every year the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico (the organization that represents producers) presents some 700-plus samples of Chianti Classico spanning several recent vintages and all quality levels. The three vintages — all currently on the market — or in the case of the 2022s, soon to be — are wonderfully individuated and provide something for everyone. The riper 2020s in general reflect the warmer growing season and are fleshier. The sleek 2021s, a product of a year with cooler summer nights that allowed grapes to hold their acidity, are racy, while the charming 2022s, with their youthful vigor and angularity, fall somewhere in-between.

The 2020 and 2021 Chianti Classico, as a pair of vintages, remind me of the 2015 and 2016 with the former being lusher and the latter fresher and edgier. Drinking — as opposed to tasting — Chianti Classico in restaurants in Florence confirmed just how well they are suited for food.

Chianti Classico has three quality tiers, Annata (literally, the year), Riserva, and Gran Selezione, which help the consumer answer the oft asked — and sadly oft unanswered — question: When might the wine be ready to drink?

The label of the Annata wines will not feature the word Annata, but merely the vintage. These wines have flavor that belies their weight. Although ready to drink upon release, there’s no rush to drink them immediately. I’m still enjoying many Annata from the stellar 2016 vintage. These lively mid-weight reds combine fruitiness and savory notes balanced by mild tannins and bright acidity. Producers generally understand that these wines are not trying to be “important,” so they don’t oversize them, or imbue them with intrusive tannins or oaky flavors from winemaking manipulations.

Chianti Classico Riservas are more serious and will always sport Riserva on the label. Winemakers typically select their best grapes for Riservas, which by law, must be aged for an additional year (two compared to one for Annata) before release. As such, the wines destined for the Riserva category, must have more “oomph” to withstand additional barrel aging without being thrown out of balance by the wood influences. They typically need a few years in the bottle to show their complexity and stature.

Considering that over 300 hundred years ago, Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici shined a spotlight on what is now Chianti Classico with his 1716 bando (proclamation) identifying and codifying the area as a high-quality wine region, (kind of a forerunner of the DOC [Denominazione Origine Controllata] classification), Gran Selezione is a relatively new category, only about a decade old. It was created to highlight the top wines of Chianti Classico. To be labeled Gran Selezione, the wines must come from the producers’ own grapes — no purchased grapes allowed — and must be aged for 30 months, as opposed to two years for the Riservas. Sangiovese must comprise a larger proportion of the blend, 90 percent compared to 80 percent for Riserva and Annata. The label of Gran Selezione will be allowed to identify one of the recently delimited 11 subregions of Chianti Classico (UGAs, Unità Geografica Aggiuntive, literally additional geographic unit) from which the grapes came. Wines in the Gran Selezione category should enrobe all the power and charms of Riservas in a silky, suave texture. Think cashmere rather than lambswool. The Gran Selezione are typically more elegant and complex, with more subtleties, but not necessarily more power than the Riservas. That said, like Riservas, Gran Selezione need additional bottle aging to blossom, so they too are good candidates for cellaring.

Remember, Chianti Classico is itself a sub-zone of the greater Chianti region, which encompasses a large area surrounding Florence and Siena in Tuscany. It’s the most widely recognized sub-zone thanks to the Galo Nero or Black Rooster logo that appears on the neck of each bottle. (For completeness, the other seven are Chianti Rùfina, Chianti Colli Senesi, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Montalbano, Chianti Colli Aretini, Chianti Montespertoli, and Chianti Colline Pisane.)

A word about UGAs. The push in Chianti Classico, as with all fine wine regions, is towards greater specificity in identifying the source of grapes. Enter the UGAs, eleven sub-regions within Chianti Classico whose basic environment—terroir, to use the French concept — imparts a uniqueness or identity to the wines. Or so the theory goes.

The problem in Chianti Classico is that, apart from Lamole and Montefioralle, each UGA is large and has an enormous diversity of soil, elevation, and exposures that makes it difficult to define the character of each. Add to that, the tremendous impact of the producers’ style of winemaking can overwhelm the distinctiveness of a UGA, even if there is one. That said, the UGAs, in general, can give consumers additional information about the style of the wines — racier wines from the cooler, higher altitude Lamole are different from the riper ones coming from sun-drenched Panzano. For completeness and because consumers will start to see the names on labels, the eleven UGAs are: San Casciano, Greve, Montefioralle, San Donato in Poggio, Panzano, Lamole, Radda, Castellina, Gaiole, Vagliagli, and Castelnuovo Berardenga.

Ironically, although the Consorzio of Chianti Classico is adamant, as they should be, about emphasizing the Classico portion of the name and reminding even journalists who should know better, not to abbreviate Chianti Classico to Chianti, even many restaurants in Florence don’t make the distinction. On more than one restaurant’s wine list Chianti Classico, Chianti Rufina, and just plain Chianti were all lumped together. So, Reader, my advice is to learn about the sub-zones and UGAs, but most importantly remember my mantra: producer, producer, producer.

That said, here are some specific recommendations:

From the 2020 vintage, I Fabbri’s fresh and lively “Terra di Lamole” delivers a firmer style of Chianti Classico with an impeccable balance of dark cherry-like fruitiness and minerality. (92 points; $28). In the same vein, the incredibly long 2020 Chianti Classico from Azienda Storica Castellinuzza, owned by the Cinuzzi family since the 1400s, conveys a touch of fresh red cherry-like notes to accompany its firm stoney texture. (91 Points; $25). The suave 2020 from Badia a Coltibuono is ideal with a simply grilled steak. (91 Points; $24).

These two widely available Chianti Classico Riservas from the 2020 vintage are entering their drinking window. The gorgeous Principe Corsini-Villa Le Corti, “Cortevecchia” Chianti Classico Riserva combines a bit of fruitiness, herbal nuances and minerality into a mid-weight and graceful frame. (94 Points; $36). The denser and more robust Querciabella 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva impresses with suave tannins and a long and refined finish (94 Points, $48).

Now let’s turn to the 2021 Annata. Bright acidity balances the riper style coming from the 2021 Castello di Radda Chianti Classico. A captivating earthy savory aspect just expands its appeal (93 Points; $25).

Fattoria le Masse’s sleek and poised 2021 Chianti Classico, made exclusively from Sangiovese, shows the stature of that grape in the right hands. Elegant and refined, le Masse’s needs a few years to unwind, so find a space in your cellar for this annata (95 Points; $45).

Fontodi excelled with two 2021s. Their savory Chianti Classico conveys a dark cherry-like power without heaviness (93 Points, $45), while Fontodi’s spellbinding Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole — certainly one of the standouts of the vintage — provides a multidimensional excitement coupled with finesse. It reminds us that a great wine need not be heavy and overwhelming (96 Points; $41).

The ever-consistent Isole e Olena produced an alluring 2021 Chianti Classico redolent of darker fruit and a captivating hint of tar (94 Points, $35). Although all these 2021s will improve with time in the bottle, especially le Masse’s, they still provide enormous enjoyment now.

Similarly, I was struck by how beautifully the 2021 Chianti Classico Riservas were showing. They, like the 2021 Annata releases, will improve with more bottle age, but they deliver plenty of pleasure now.

As always, the gorgeous aromatics of the harmonious 2021 Castellare de Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva predicted delights to follow. And they did. Savory, fruity, and nuanced, it is the epitome of a Riserva (94 Points; $34). As an aside, I’ve already seen the more straightforward 2022 Castellare de Castellina Annata on retailer’s shelves. Bright and balanced, it’s a delight for current drinking (92 Points, $26).

With fine tannins, the lush and suave 2021 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva would be a joy to match with a grilled steak this summer (93 Points, $46).

And don’t overlook the graceful 2021 Riecine Chianti Classico Riserva lest you miss this mid-weight marvel of spice and fruit wrapped in fine unobtrusive tannins (93 Points, $50).

A quartet of 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione shows the heights that wines from this DOCG can reach. Despite of, or perhaps because of, its mid-weight size, the 2019 I Fabbri Chianti Classico Gran Selezione commands a presence. It’s delicious now (95 Points, $59).

The suave and stunning 2019 Gran Selezione of Lamole di Lamole comes from the single vineyard, Vigneto di Campolungo and is another mid-weight beauty that wows you with grace and refinement rather than shear power (95 Points, $50).

The captivating 2019 Gran Selezione from Monteraponi dazzles with a darker fruit profile and a hint of minerals wrapped in glossy tannins (96 Points; price n/a).

And last, but by no means least, Querciabella’s 2019 Gran Selezione bursts from the glass, combining power and refinement (96 Points; $260 for the 2018).

The above recommendations represent only a smattering of the hundreds of notable Chianti Classico from these three vintages. I could have easily listed a hundred more. So, my advice is to dive in and explore for yourself the differences between the lusher 2020s and the racier 2021s and then see how they compare to the 2022s when they become more available. And answer the question for yourself: Do the Riserva and Gran Selezione give you more enjoyment than the Annata, considering their higher price?

A recent advertisement from one of New York’s top wine retailers, Flatiron Wines & Spirits, reminds readers of the ridiculously affordable pricing for Chianti Classico: Principe Corsini-Villa Le Corti 2016 or 2021, both gorgeous vintages, for all of $24 each.

And at Gordon’s Wines and Liquors outside of Boston, Volpaia’s racy and sleek 2021 Chianti Classico goes for $20 — with no sales tax!

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E-mail me your thoughts about Chianti Classico at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein.

Restaurant & Wine Review: An Evening at Eleven Madison Park with the Wines of Tenuta Sette Ponti, Featuring Oreno: A Dramatic Change for the Better

April 9, 2024 10:57 pm

It seemed ill-conceived. Matching upscale vegetarian cuisine with muscular Italian red wines. But, as is sometimes the case, the unconventional teaches a lesson—and this one taught two. Michelin three-star Eleven Madison Park with their plant-based food was the setting. Tenuta Sette Ponti’s Oreno, their flagship Bordeaux blend, was the wine. The lessons. Lesson one: if the food is good and the wine is good, then the match is good. In this case, the flavor that chef Daniel Humm and his team extracted from leeks, as in a leek tea, was other-worldly. More about the food later. Lesson two: Oreno’s back to the future-like journey appears to be a resounding success and has the potential to produce a majestic wine.

By a Tuscan timeframe, where more than a few producers date their origins to a thousand years ago, Sette Ponti’s Oreno is a new wine since its first vintage was the 1999. So, it’s understandable, and indeed, admirable, that Oreno is still a work in progress with the Cuseri family, the owners, tweaking it with successive vintages. The soon-to-be-released latest vintage, the expressive and captivating 2022 Oreno, represents a major, back-to-the-future stylistic change.

Alberto Moretti Cuseri, one of the sons of the founder, Antonio Moretti Cuseri, and the Sette Ponti’s worldwide director for export and sales, described their compulsiveness as a family. “We want to do things properly and not just ‘jump in.’” He recounted how his father spent a month just deciding what corks they would use. They started planting in 1989 but didn’t release their first wine until a decade later, to give the vines time to mature and the family time to fine-tune the blend. They started with a Sangiovese-based blend—they were in the heart of Tuscany—but over several years moved to a Bordeaux blend because Antonio was enamored of the wines from Bordeaux and saw the success of Sassicaia. Alberto describes the 2022 as “a new style without losing tradition [of a Bordeaux blend].” He exclaimed that pairing Oreno with vegetarian food was “a surprise for us.”

The sleek and stunning 2001 Oreno, a blend of Sangiovese (50%) with equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot filling out the rest, had developed magnificently, showing nuances of both fresh and dried fruits complemented by savory ones. Not a massive brut of a wine, it impressed with its elegance, length, and suave texture. Even at two decades-plus of age, it was bright and lively, showing the stature of great Italian Sangiovese-based wine. Thisn will easily last until 2034. The more massively framed 2005 Oreno emphasized Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (40% each) while reducing the contribution of Sangiovese. Increasing the new barrique aging to 80% also helped explain its heft. The olive-like savory character imparted by Cabernet added weight and an appealing counterpoint to its ripeness. With less charm and more power than the 2001, the richer 2005 was far less immediately appealing, still needing time in the glass for its stature to peek out. It can be drunk now, but will keep until 2040. The addition of Petit Verdot to the blend starting with the 2008 vintage, explains the even more massive character of the 2016 Oreno, a blend of Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), and Petit Verdot. Though they reduced the amount of new oak aging (to 40%), the muscular 2016 at this stage is so boisterous that it’s hard to hear the music, what I call a Texas steakhouse wine. Whether it ever comes into balance remains to be seen. I’d drink this between 2034 – 2054. With the 2022 Oreno, bottled but not yet released, the focus changes dramatically. Amedeo Moretti Cuseri, CEO and Antonio’s other son, explains, “We want the wine to have more finesse.” The stunning 2022 Oreno certainly does! He emphasizes, “we don’t want the oak and the wood to overwhelm the variety, so we want to have the primary aromas, like fruits . . . what we want is to have the terroir stand out.” To that end, they reduced the oak aging. Perhaps more importantly, they modified the blend, incorporating Cabernet Franc (10%), while reducing the amount of Petit Verdot and Merlot. Equally important, Amedeo stresses changes in viticulture, such as harvesting earlier to preserve acidity in the grapes that translates to vibrancy in the wine. In addition, they are doing less extraction during fermentation to bring out elegance. Amedeo continues, “The challenge is to have balance. . . between having an elegant wine that is already drinkable, but still complex, and that will also develop over 15, 20, and 25 years.” Sette Ponti’s winemaking team turned down the volume of the floral and finesse-filled 2022 Oreno so you could hear the panoply of notes clearly. Impeccably balanced, the 2022 Oreno delivers additional nuances with each sip. It’s an exciting wine whose charms are readily apparent while plenty of framework should allow gorgeous development over the next decades. A suave and silky texture—fine tannins at work—belie its structure. Truly, an iron fist in a velvet glove, that can be drunk now and until 2044.

Tarte flambée sweet caramélisé onions and savory truffles!

But at “Eleven Madison Park”, high gastronomy is also part of the equation. And so, now for the food. The leek tea, really a bouillon, kicked off what turned out to be a unique and fascinating food and wine pairing. For me, bouillons are magic, you see what appears to be an innocuous bowl of clear broth, but then your palate is walloped with flavor. I can only imagine how many pounds of leeks were roasted to produce this bouillon. Along with the ‘tea,’ came two other stunning amuse-bouches. A dazzling Alsace-like tarte flambé of deeply caramelized onion topped with savory black truffle on a very thin whole wheat-like flat bread combined a tantalizing ying and yang of sweetness and savoriness. Crispy chickpea panisses (chickpea fritters) served with a light and intoxicating herbal garlic aioli reminded me of the socca found in Nice, improved, as is everything, by the addition of aioli!

A trompe-l’oeil of tonburi and roasted cauliflower accompanied by a scattering of fresh tarragon leaves appeared next. A mound of tonburi, a Japanese grain, was a visual dead ringer for sevruga caviar, which explains why it’s known as ‘land caviar.’ The startling disconnect between its appearance and its earthy grainy flavor made you pause in wonderment—and wishing for the real thing. Florets of roasted cauliflower were fine but could easily be made at home. The first bite of a tarragon leaf, on the other hand, exploded in the mouth. I’d like to know Eleven Madison’s source! Heady black truffles made their appearance again with a roasted meaty maitake mushroom served over a slice of perfectly cooked potato, the center of which had been hollowed out and replaced with minced mushrooms. The dish sang alongside of the 2022 Oreno, with the complexity of each playing off against one and other. The overly sweet chocolate chestnut dessert was disappointing, lacking a counterpoint of bitterness or at least a savory note.

To be fair, there were twenty-five of us around a single large table in an upstairs room, as opposed to the majestic towering ceilinged Art-Deco dining room of Eleven Madison Park, so the setting did not do the food justice. The bottom line: would I spend the $350 prix-fixed price, plus wine, tax, and tip? No, but this unique meal showed that if the food is good—it was—and the wine is good—you could have gnawed on a rubber tire and be thrilled by 2001 and 2022 Oreno—then the pairing works.

Do Not Miss the 2019 Brunellos!

March 20, 2024 8:17 pm

Let me get straight to the point. The 2019 vintage for Brunello di Montalcino is fabulous! I make this assessment after tasting 35-plus examples of the recently bottled and released wines in New York City in November. There wasn’t a loser in the bunch. Sure, I preferred some over others, but overall, the consistency and quality were outstanding. The high stated alcohols, some even up to 16 percent, might make you think the wines would be heavy and hot. Surprisingly, they are not. By and large, the alcohol does not show in these wines. The 2019 Brunellos are a balanced delight of dark fruit and minerals with needed, but unobtrusive, structure. I would rank the vintage on a par with 2010 and 2016, two other spectacular vintages. So, if you missed Brunellos from those years, now is your chance to make up for it.

Indeed, if I were younger and buying young red wines to cellar, the 2019 Brunello would be high on my list. Mind you, the 2019 Brunellos, like other great wines, will need cellaring to allow their beauty and complexity to shine. I just had a bottle of the 2010 Il Poggione Brunello with a lamb ragu pasta. At 13 years of age, it’s barely entering its drinking window. The rather riper character of the 2019s suggests they may be enjoyable sooner, but I’d still plan on giving them a decade before pulling their corks.

The weather during the growing season and harvest makes or breaks a vintage. And the weather in the Montalcino in 2019 was perfect, according to Mark Guillaudeu, MS, who led a seminar in New York in November on behalf of the Consorzio di Montalcino, the organization that represents the growers and producers of that DOCG. Producers to whom I have spoken uniformly echo Guillaudeu’s description that it was “an easy vintage for winemakers.” Lots of rain in May provided ample water for the vines throughout the growing season. Normally disease accompanies wet weather, though luckily, May of 2019 was cool, so mildew and other humidity-enhanced problems did not take hold.

A dry summer without heat spikes allowed for slow and even ripening. The harvest took place under mostly sunny skies with only occasional light rain, so waterlogging the grapes just before harvest was not a problem. Guillaudeu felt that the evenness of the heat was responsible for the smooth tannins. Whatever the explanation, the 2019 Brunello wines, as a group, displayed a glossy, suave texture, making them easy to taste even at this young age.

Without question, Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s greatest wines. Regulators, realizing its stature, bestowed the first DOCG designation on Brunello di Montalcino in 1980. It, and Rosso di Montalcino, its made-to-be-drunk-earlier baby brother, are the only DOCGs that require the exclusive use of Sangiovese. Regulations also require five years of aging, two of which must be in barrel, before release, which explains why the 2019s will be hitting the market early in 2024.

Despite its small area—only about 5,000 acres under vine—roughly one-tenth the size of Napa Valley’s plantings, the heterogeneity of the region is enormous, which makes describing a style of Brunello difficult. A hill rising some 1,500 feet above sea level dominates the DOCG area, so the elevation of the vineyards is one element that creates diversity. Add to that, the different exposures created by all sides of the hill. And third, the geologic mix of the soils is extraordinary. The reason for the diversity of soils is beyond the scope of this article, but in her timeless book Kerin O’Keefe, a leading expert on Brunello, explains it succinctly, “the celebrated hill was formed in different geologic eras” (Kerin O’Keefe, Brunello di Montalcino, University of California Press, 2012). So, like other of the world’s truly great wine areas, Brunello is not one wine, but many wines—a key to why it’s such an exciting DOCG.

Some experts broadly refer to the character of the wines from the four slopes of the hill while others, such as O’Keefe, describe seven subzones. She argues that defining subzones is “crucial to the future of Brunello,” but admits that realistically it’s likely not going to happen any time soon—simply because many producers feel it would only create more confusion and a marketing nightmare. While I find the generalizations regarding the slope and subzones helpful, the gorilla in the room remains the style imparted by the individual producer. So, while everyone pretty much agrees that the southern part of Montalcino, with its more Mediterranean climate, is home to riper grapes and richer wines, vast differences between producers can trump that generalization. For example, Col d’Orcia and Castello Banfi are located less than three miles from one another in the southern Sant’Angelo Scalo zone, but Col d’Orcia’s elegant profile is far different from the richer and more powerful Brunello wines coming from Banfi.

The baby gorilla in the room is knowing the origin of the grapes. A producer may well own vineyards in zones apart from the location of its home and winery and blend the grapes. Tenute Silvio Nardi, one of my favorite producers, is located in the cool, frost-prone northwest slope of the DOCG, but one of their most important vineyards, Vigneto Manachiara, lies far away in the south while another one, Vigneto Poggio Doria, does, in fact, lie in the northwest. In addition to making stunning single vineyard Brunellos from each of these vineyards, their regular or main production Brunello bottling is a blend from at least those two zones. So, knowing Nardi’s location does not really tell you anything about the style of their basic Brunello. Tasting Nardi’s two single vineyard Brunello side-by-side does, however, show the dramatic and important differences between the zones.

Similarly, Val di Suga’s three single vineyard Brunello, made from its 125-plus acres of vineyards spread over three distinct zones, provides an equally convincing argument for identifying zones. Val di Suga’s vineyards are divided roughly in thirds: In the north where their winery and prized Vigna del Lago lies, in the southwest side, the location of its equally prized Vigna Spuntali, and in the southeast part, where their third esteemed vineyard, Poggio al Granchio is located. The contrast between the richer Spuntali, the tightly wound Vigna del Lago, and the minerally Poggio al Granchio is illuminating and proves, once again, the importance of zones when speaking of Brunello.

In this instance, the consumer would be correct in identifying Val di Suga’s fragrant, elegant, and firm style and assume it’s a function of the estate’s location north of Montalcino. But that assumption would be incorrect because Val di Suga’s basic Brunello (which is not really “basic” at all) comes from a blend of grapes from diverse locales. So, in this instance, the location of the estate predicts the style of the wine, but for the wrong reasons. It’s Val di Suga’s talent in winemaking and blending—not the location of the vineyards—that accounts for its style.

So, my advice (unsurprisingly to those who know me) is producer, producer, producer. With the 2019 Brunello, select your favorite producers and buy as much as your budget allows. Here are a dozen or so, in no particular order, that caught my eye. Where prices are not available for the 2019 vintage, I have listed the most recent price from Wine-Searcher just to give readers an approximation.

The fragrant Cortonesi “La Mannella” (which, by the way, is the name of the estate, not a single vineyard) is what you’d predict from a northern locale, elegant and perfumed with supporting by not intrusive tannins. (95 pts., $50 for the 2018.)

The similarly perfumed Piaggone, a single vineyard bottling from, Salicutti, delivers great savory elements that accent its dark fruit quality. (95 pts., $110 for the 2018.)

Argiano, whose vineyards hail from warmer, southern Montalcino, shows the riper, plusher side of the DOCG without going over the top. Amazing elegance for its size. (95 pts., $78.)

Col d’Orcia, though located barely 3 miles from Argiano, delivers a vastly differently styled Brunello and, once again, reinforces my mantra of producer, producer, producer. Their elegant and stylish 2019 displays a presence without shouting. (95 pts., $60.) Speaking of Col d’Orcia, their spectacular 2016 single vineyard Brunello Riserva, Poggio al Vento, was included in the recent New York tasting. I’ve had this wine several times in the past and this tasting just reinforced my impression. It’s fabulous! My advice—buy it if you can find it and afford it. (97 pts., $180.) It still needs at least a decade more of cellaring.

The floral and gorgeous Canalicchio di Sopra wows with its elegance and impresses with its stature. (96 pts., $116 for the 2018.) Even more stunning is their single vineyard, Vigna Montosoli, from one of Montalcino’s most revered sites. It shows more power without losing any finesse. (97 pts., $201 for the 2018.)

Similarly, Silvio Nardi’s striking single vineyard, Poggio Doria, dazzles with its silky suave texture and power. (97 pts., $170 for the 2017.)

The floral and fleshy Il Poggione, from the area’s southeastern sector, is powerful yet not overdone. (94 pts., $80.)

The stunning 2019 trio from Val di Suga, the lush Spuntali, (93 pts., $113 for the 2018), the floral Vigna del Lago (93 pts., $103 for the 2018), and the firm and elegant Poggio al Granchio (93 pts., $92 for the 2018), are a perfect way to explore the zones of Brunello.

Bright enlivening acidity and firm tannins offset the richer profile of La Gerla nicely. (93 pts., $75 for the 2018.)

From a high altitude, 1,400 feet above sea level, the roughly 5-acre Vignavecchia vineyard is San Polo’s flagship Brunello. Perfumed and classically proportioned with firm, not hard, tannins, the Vignavecchia displays a riveting complexity. (95 pts., $303 for the 2016.)

So, there you have it. In short, lay down the 2019 Brunellos if you have the funds to buy them and space to cellar them.

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March 20, 2024

Email me your thoughts about Brunello di Montalcino at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein

Wine of the Week: Duckhorn Vineyards

March 18, 2024 10:55 pm

Duckhorn Vineyards 1978 Merlot Three Palms Vineyard Napa Valley California 97

Duckhorn Vineyards, founded in 1976 by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn, released its first wines two years later, from the 1978 vintage: 6,000 bottles each of a Cabernet Sauvignon and this Merlot. Mind you, the vineyard from which the Merlot came, the Three Palms Vineyard, had been planted by the Uptons a decade earlier. Duckhorn was the first American winery to focus on high-end, high-quality Merlot. Dan Duckhorn recalled on the winery website how he first became intrigued by Merlot, “I liked the softness, the seductiveness, the color . . . the fact that it went with a lot of different foods; it wasn’t so bold, didn’t need to age so long, and it had this velvety texture to it. It seemed to me to be a wonderful wine to just enjoy. I became enchanted with Merlot.” The rest is history. The popularity of Merlot took off, in part because Duckhorn showed how majestic a wine it could be. Currently, Duckhorn lists seven Napa Valley Merlot on their website: one labeled simply, Napa Valley; one from the Carneros region of Napa; one from Atlas Peak; and then four single vineyard ones, Stout Vineyard, Rector Creek Vineyard, Hyde Vineyard, and the now famed Three Palms Vineyard.

The 83-acre Three Palms Vineyard, owned entirely by Duckhorn since 2015, lies in the warmer Calistoga AVA of Napa Valley. Sloan and John Upton originally planted the vineyard, but before that it was a residence of Lillie Hitchcock Coit, a prominent San Francisco socialite (think the Coit Tower). The vineyard’s name came from the three palm trees left on the estate after Coit died. The poor, rocky and well-drained soil contains river wash—an alluvial plain—that force the roots deep, which is thought to bring more complexity to the wine. The covering of volcanic stones hold heat and radiate it back to the grapes at night, aiding ripening. Though other Bordeaux varieties are grown in Three Palms Vineyards, Merlot is the one that gave the vineyard its fame and comprises two-thirds of the plantings.

Duckhorn’s 1978 Three Palms Merlot, at 45 years of age, remains a magnificent wine. The initial aromas after pulling the cork and decanting the wine were funky, which is a fairly common trait in wines that have been couped up in a bottle for 40+ years. They need to breathe. After about 15 minutes, glorious aromas of mature wine—leafy and earthy notes—emerge. Similar savory hints combined with nuances of fresh and dried fruits explode on the palate. A suave texture and brilliant acidity just amplify the wine’s stature. Still fresh and alluring, it continues to expand in the glass. All of this comes with a stated alcohol of 12.9 percent! I bet Dan Duckhorn had no idea how his initial bottling would evolve. He would be pleased and proud. Drinking window: 2024 – 2030.

From Decanter Magazine: Domaine Parent: A benchmark Pommard domaine

March 3, 2024 12:11 pm

Long-regarded as one of Burgundy’s more muscular appellations, the 2022 vintage from Domaine Parent reveal Pommard’s more refined and sensuous side.

The wines of Pommard have long suffered from a less-exalted reputation compared to the more delicate wines of neighbouring Volnay, just to the south.

They are often considered burly and chunky compared to the lacey wines of Volnay. The different character, which indeed is a powerful and persuasive argument for terroir, comes, in large measure, from Pommard’s position lower on the slope where more iron-tinged clay, which imparts power to the wine, has accumulated over the millennia compared to the more limestone rich soil higher up on the slope of Volnay.

But, if you are one of those who feels that the wines of Pommard should take a backseat to those of Volnay, then I suggest you try Domaine Parent’s dazzling array of 2022s, or any year for that matter, because the combination of power and elegance that Anne Parent imbues in the wines will convert you immediately.

Twelve generations

Though Domaine Parent was created in 1803, the family’s presence in Burgundy dates to the 17th century, making sisters Anne and Catherine Parent the 12th generation of the family involved in wine.

Anne and Catherine took over from their father Jacques, who ran the domaine from 1947 until 1988. Anne is responsible for the viticulture and winemaking, while Catherine runs the commercial side of the operation.

The domaine comprises 10 hectare (about 25 acres) mostly in Pommard along with two important Corton Grand Cru parcels from which she makes a stunning white Corton and an equally impressive red Corton Renardes.

Anne buys grapes, often from family members, and makes wines, technically as a négociant, and bottles them under the ‘Jacques Parent et Cie label’ (Jacques started the négociant side of the business in the mid-1970s.)

The meticulousness that Anne puts into the domaine wines is readily apparent in these négociant bottlings. To explore just how well Anne’s négociant bottlings evolve, I recently pulled a bottle of the 1990 Pommard Les Rugiens from my cellar.

Parent does not own any vines in Rugiens but obtains grapes from friends who do. The suave 1990, at 34 years, has developed magnificently, with silky tannins enrobing an iron-tinged core of dark fruit. Vibrant and fresh, it combines power and elegance. To paraphrase Robert Frost, it has miles to go before it sleeps.

Consistent terroir expression

A hallmark of Parent’s wines, be they domaine or négociant – in addition to their superb quality – is their consistency and dazzling transparency. Having only two winemakers, Jacques and Anne Parent, for the last 70 years helps explain the consistency.

To learn about the subtle and not so subtle variations of terroir within Pommard, just taste Parent’s array. Each reflects the locale, the distinctiveness of the vineyard, from village wine to premier cru. Despite decades of lobbying, the authorities have yet to promote Les Epenots or Les Rugiens (the two generally accepted top premier crus) to grand cru.

When the sisters took over, Anne embraced organic viticulture, attaining Ecocert organic certification over a decade ago, in 2013.

She employs biodynamic practices, such as ploughing the premier and grand cru vineyards with horses and bottling the wines according to the lunar calendar, and is awaiting Demeter certification.

The grapes are harvested entirely by hand. Once back at the winery in the center of Pommard, the grapes pass over a vibrating sorting table and then a stationary sorting table where the eyes of four to six workers remove the less healthy grapes.

Anne has no stricture formula for destemming, explaining that It depends on the vintage and the particular site. Fermentation, always done with native yeast, varies from 10 to 20 days, again depending on vintage and site.

Barrel-ageing at Domaine Parent is, similarly, non-formulaic, but always occurs in French oak, of which 25% to 40% are new, except for the grand cru bottling, which can see from 80% to 100% new oak.

Anne uses the traditional 228-litre Burgundy barrel (in French, la pièce) for ageing most of her wines, but she is experimenting with larger, 600-litre barrels. She intends to experiment with amphora in the future but is sceptical. Still, as she says” ‘I want to see what all the buzz is about.’

During the many years I’ve tasted in Parent’s cellars, I’ve always been amazed at the seamless integration of what sounds like a lot of new oak for the grand cru bottlings. It reminds me of something another winemaker once told me, ‘the wine is not over-oaked, it’s under-fruited!’

The ‘easy’ 2022s

The 2022 growing season, like 2018, 2019, and 2020, was hot and dry. Unusually heavy rain in June helps explains why the wines turned out so splendidly and have been widely acclaimed.

The rain replenished the water table, which allowed the vines and grapes to avoid stress, and prevented the grapes from becoming over-ripe. Unusually for such a hot year, the sugars and tannins ripened simultaneously.

And, unlike the previous hot and dry years, the wines are balanced and fresh with normal or even low levels of alcohol. One suspects that Pommard’s clay soil with its water-retaining ability, may have contributed to the success of Parent’s wines in 2022.

Anne is positively ecstatic about her 2022s, exclaiming: ‘The more I taste them, the more I like them.’

She was especially impressed – as was I – by the purity of fruit and the suaveness of the tannins. The harvest at Domaine Parent began on 31 August, earlier than usual, to preserve acidity, which judging from the wines, worked.

Anne explains that: ‘Winemaking was easy in 2022 without any problems during fermentation.’ She continues: ‘In 2020, if you waited for phenolic maturity (maturity of the tannins) you could wind up with high alcohols.’

Fortunately, in 2022 the tannins were ripe at a lower level of potential alcohol (based on sugar ripeness), therefore, Anne didn’t need to include as many whole bunches – which she believes imparts delicacy by moderating the alcohol.

Hence, although the measured acidity is lower in the 2022s compared to the 2020s, the wines still taste vibrant and fresh because the alcohols are lower and the tannins riper.

As the tasting notes show, Parent’s 2022 Pommard are gorgeous – floral, elegant, and powerful. They combine gracefulness with the innate power of Pommard. They will evolve magnificently to express the magic of Burgundy, that is, if you can keep your corkscrew away from them.

Attention consumers without cellars, many of the 2022s can be enjoyed young, within the first few years of bottling, because of their charm and youthful fruitiness.

I suspect they will continue to display youthful seductiveness for a couple of years but they do have the requisite balance and structure to reward long term ageing.

Drinking state of back vintages

Parent’s 2021s, another fine vintage showing great vibrancy because of the overall cooler temperatures – what I call a pre-climate change vintage – are lovely to drink now, and, like the 2022s, are likely to close down for a decade or so.

The riper and more structured 2020s will need more bottle age, perhaps another five or six years, before their allure will re-emerge.

Meanwhile, Anne describes her 2019s as ‘charming, easy to drink, and sexy’. The bolder 2018s, however, like the 2020s, will benefit from another four or five years of bottle age, while the enchanting 2017s, from a lighter vintage, are delightful for current consumption.

Happily, for consumers, a variety of older vintages of Parent’s Pommard are still available. The 2018 to 2020 vintages of Croix Blanche for around £60 a bottle, the 2020 Pommard Premier Cru Les Argillères and 2019 Pommard Premier Cru Les Chanlins for £90 apiece, and 2020 and 2017 Pommard Premier Cru Les Chaponnières for roughly £100 per bottle.

To confirm my impression that Domaine Parent’s Pommard evolve harmoniously over time, I retreated to my cellar to taste – and then drink – two older Les Epenots after returning from Burgundy in November when I tasted their 2022s.

The still youthful 2012 Les Epenots has just started to show the complexity of maturity along with a graceful elegance, while the vibrant 1985 conveyed a near magical combination of sweet black fruit, clean savoury mushroom-like nuances, all enrobed with silky fine tannins. A show-stopping wine.

Domaine Parent: 2022 wines

Domaine Parent, Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2022

Even at this youthful stage, the 2022 Corton Blanc packs power. I find it more minerally and dense than the typical Corton-Charlemagne, so I understand her reasoning for labeling. It’s a luxurious wine, even at this tightly wound stage. Parent’s vines are in Le Rognet et Corton section in the…

Points: 95

Jacques Parent et Cie, Monthélie, Burgundy, France, 2022

Showing the importance of appellation, this négociant bottling from two distinct parcels in the village is a distinct step up from the Parent’s Bourgogne Blanc. Ripe melon-like fruit, a hint of creaminess and, and good acidity explains why Anne says this is a wine to ‘just enjoy’.

Points: 92

Jacques Parent et Cie, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2022

A négociant bottling, this is a charming, fruity expression of Burgundy meant to be enjoyed now. Good acidity and a touch of minerality remind you it’s real Burgundy.

Points: 90

Domaine Parent, Corton Les Renardes Grand Cru, Burgundy, France 2022

Parent’s dazzling 2022 Corton Les Renardes is my definition of quintessential Burgundy – flavour without weight. You feel the effect of 100% new oak ageing – a luxurious suaveness – without sensing its presence. It has a bit of everything; ripe pure fruit, savoury nuances, captivating aromatics and terrific length…

Points: 98

Domaine Parent, Pommard, 1er Cru Chaponnières, Burgundy, France 2022

Characteristic of her 2022s, pure luscious black fruit is apparent, supplemented by an alluring floral component. The tannins are sturdier yet still supple, and unobtrusive. There’s an uncommon elegance here. Dare I say, a charming Pommard. Les Chaponnières sits on the Volnay side, but near the village of Pommard itself,…

Points: 97

Domaine Parent, Pommard, 1er Cru Croix Noires, Burgundy, France 2022

Like Les Argillières, the ripe succulent fruit shines, but here more savoury elements come into focus. It’s chewy and rich, but not heavy. The tannins are hardly noticeable yet lend plenty of support. Uplifting freshness in the long finish amplifies the wine’s significant charms. Les Croix Noires, one of the…

Points: 96

Domaine Parent, Pommard, 1er Cru Épenots, Burgundy, France 2022

The gorgeous 2022 displays the vintage’s signature ripe and pure succulent black fruit with unobtrusive structure and freshness. Powerful, to be sure, but not overdone and with an elegant touch. Two vineyards, Les Grands Epenots and Les Petits Epenots, comprise Les Epenots. They are the first vineyards you see on…

Points: 96

Domaine Parent, Pommard, 1er Cru Chanlins, Burgundy, France 2022

Like her other 2022s, the pure and lush dark fruit is front and centre supported by a sturdy structure. You feel the elegance in the long and fresh finish. Les Chanlins lies adjacent to Volnay and is one of those many Burgundy vineyards that has both village (upper part) and…

Points: 94

Domaine Parent, Ladoix, 1er Cru La Corvée, Burgundy, France 2022

This domaine wine, a touch heftier than Parent’s Monthélie, displays the same alluring glossiness and succulent black fruit. A captivating not-just-fruit element and a seductive hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its appeal. La Corvée, the most northern premier cru vineyard in the Côte de Beaune, borders the…

Points: 94

Domaine Parent, Pommard, 1er Cru Argilières, Burgundy, France 2022

Along with the heft, Parent’s 2022 displays a lush and suave texture. A combination of pure dense red and black fruit is front and centre, with fewer savoury notes lurking in the background. The tannins are hardly noticeable among the plush fruit. This gorgeous Pommard is ripe, yet not over…

Points: 93

Jacques Parent et Cie, Monthélie, 1er Cru Champs Fuillot, Burgundy, France 2022

The suave 2022 Monthélie Premier Cru Les Champs Fulliot, a vineyard that is basically an extension of Volnay’s Clos des Chênes, conveys the purity of fruit characteristic of the vintage. Suave and long, it’s concentrated without a trace of heaviness. It simultaneously dances and explodes on the palate. Like her…

Points: 93

Domaine Parent, Sélection Pomone, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France 2022

The stellar 2022 Sélection Pomone, with its elegance, density, and complexity, is just one example. It hits far above its weight and class. The Sélection Pomone comes from 50+ year-old vines that lie just outside of the Pommard village appellation. Anne ages it in 600-litre barrels. It’s a splendid Bourgogne…

Points: 93

Domaine Parent, La Croix Blanche, Pommard, Burgundy, France 2022

Winemaker Anne has always felt that the wine from the Croix Blanche, a village lieu-dit that lies just across the road from Les Grand Epenots, was distinctive and for many years decided to bottle it separately from her other village Pommard. The richly perfumed 2022 Croix Blanche, always one of…

Points: 92

Domaine Parent, Beaune, 1er Cru Les Epenottes, Burgundy, France 2022

Parent’s broad-shouldered 2022 Beaune Premier Cru Epenottes displays pure ripe fruit of the vintage supported by fine tannins. Though big, it’s not a boisterous wine. Its breeding shows in its balance. Beaune Epenottes borders Pommard which might explain why wines from this vineyard often have a Pommard-like heft to them….

Points: 92

The Amazing 2022 Burgundies

February 14, 2024 10:40 pm

Let me cut directly to the chase, or rather, the bottom line: Buy as much of the 2022 Burgundies—both red and white—as your budget allows. I give this advice after having been astonished by the results of my annual tasting trip to Burgundy in November. My prejudice was that the wines were going to be heavy and flabby because 2022 was another hot, dry year. But my tastings proved my prejudice wrong. (Data usually does that to prejudice.) In general, the wines are concentrated without going overboard and, importantly, and surprisingly given the heat of the vintage, balanced by freshness.

Laurent Delaunay, who is the current president of the BIVB, the organization that represents growers and producers describes the wines as “nuanced and transparent.” Though you might expect that assessment from a person in his position, my tastings with both venerable négociants and small growers confirm that the appellation and vineyard boundaries are nicely etched. The reds display Burgundian charm while the whites display a balance of luscious fruit and minerality. The suaveness of the reds and the lusciousness of the whites reminded me of the 1985 vintage.

What explains why the wines are so charming and delectable, especially since 2022 was another hot and dry year, conditions that do not favor the delicate Pinot Noir? The conventional wisdom is that that kind of growing season leads to over ripe grapes with low acidity, which translates into ripe, alcoholic wines that lack freshness and life. This was clearly not the case with the 2022s. Yes, in general, the wines are ripe. But they are balanced by a lively freshness without a trace of heat from high levels of alcohol.

From talking to producers and other experts, I sense a combination of factors led to the success of the vintage. Frédéric Barnier, the very talented and straight-talking winemaker at Maison Louis Jadot, says that, paradoxically, June made the vintage. (The traditional wisdom is that September’s weather makes the vintage.) Though the year was dry overall, massive rains over a few days in June restored the ground water and allowed the vines to survive the remaining dry summer, preventing the grapes from shriveling or being over-ripe. Frédéric also says that he believes that the large volume of grapes slowed and reduced overall ripening. He notes that the level of acidity in the reds was similar to that in 2021, while in the whites it was lower. He does not consider 2022 a “fresh” (high acid) vintage, but the wines do taste fresh and lively, which he attributes to only moderate ripeness and moderate levels of alcohol, rarely exceeding 13.5 percent.

Laurent Delaunay echoes Barnier, emphasizing the importance of yield. “A smaller crop would have resulted in jammy wines.” He believes that in 2021, the small crop saved that bad-weather vintage—a larger crop could not have ripened adequately in such a cool growing season.

Jasper Morris MW, one of the world’s great experts on Burgundy and someone with enormous experience with its wines, thinks that something else besides crop size was going on in 2022. He reminds us that 2018 was also a large crop, but the volume did not prevent the wines from being heavy. He believes that more and more growers are learning to pick a touch earlier to capture acidity. Indeed, all the growers with whom I tasted remarked on how they started the harvest earlier than usual.

Véronique Drouhin, winemaker at her family’s Maison Joseph Drouhin, told me that, in addition to harvesting earlier—Drouhin started harvest on August 22—they are making adjustments in the vineyard and in the winery to mitigate the effects of climate change. After tasting Drouhin’s fresh and lively 2022s, they seemed to have worked!

My advice is that since you won’t be able to taste many bottled wines before you buy—many, if not most, will have been sold in advance before they are bottled—buy from producers who you’ve liked in the past. And seek out wines from lower pedigree appellations, such as Bourgogne Blanc or Bourgogne Rouge, where prices remain reasonable, from top producers. And remember off-the-beaten-track villages, such as Marsannay in the Côte de Nuits and Saint Romain in the Côte de Beaune. For whites, head to the Mâconnais where value abounds.

Much of what I tasted in November were barrel samples, that is, unfinished wines. Even though producers create representative samples to taste, the wines will still change and evolve before bottling. Sure, the wine continues to evolve even after bottling—that’s one of the wonders of wine—but far more gradually. Before bottling the evolution and changes can occur much more rapidly and can be enormous. Which is why I generally avoid recommending specific wines based on tasting barrel samples. Thus, in the notes below, you’ll notice generalizations in addition to specifics when I tasted bottled wines.

Let me start with the Mâconnais because that’s where the value for whites lies. Wines with point scores have been bottled. Prices are listed for those wines available on the U.S. retail market at press time, according to winesearcher.com.

With the 2022 vintage, the label will change from Domaine Roger Lassarat to Lassarat et Fils because the reins have been handed to Roger’s son, Pierre-Henri, who wants to emphasize the family’s name. Though all the vineyards, except for a sliver of Sur La Roche, are farmed organically, official certification will not arrive until the 2023 vintage. As always, Lassarat’s 2022s are vibrant, balanced, and focused. Lassarat bottles two easy-to-recommend St. Véran. The “fruity and easy,” as Pierre-Henri describes it, “Plaisir” bottling (91 pts, $30), made from young, less than 25- year-old vines, and the invigorating and more substantial “Prestige” bottling (92 pts), a blend of five plots whose vines average 40 years of age. Their minerally and refined 2022 Mâcon-Vergisson “La Roche,” (93 pts, $30) from a vineyard at the top of the village and just across the road from the Pouilly-Fuissé boundary, has more character than most wines from Mâcon. Lassarat’s stunning 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé, “Terroir” (94 pts, $40), a blend of three plots, two from Vergisson and one in Solutré, shows why that appellation has such appeal. Frankly, I suggest buying any of Lassarat’s 2022s that you can find. You will not be disappointed.

Domaine Mathias in Chaintré, an organic, family-run estate of just over 30-acres in Macon, Pouilly-Fuissé and Pouilly-Vinzelles, made commendable wines in 2022. Gilles, who runs the domine with his son, Thibault, explains that he finds naturally lower yields with organic farming. Uplifting saline-acidity amplified the charm of their bright and balanced 2022 Mâcon-Chaintré, “Château du Chaintré.” (91 pts, $25). Their subtly creamy 2022 Pouilly-Vinzelles, “Les Longeays,” is a step up and confirms the stature of that appellation. (92 pts). Even more exciting is the complexity that 50 to 60-year-old vines impart to their finesse-filled 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé, “Vieilles Vignes.” (93 pts).

The label, Domaine Ste. Barbe/Jean-Marie Chaland, takes a little explaining, but the wines do not—they are uniformly stunning. Here’s another domaine where you should buy whatever you can find and whatever your budget allows. Jean-Marie Chaland runs the Domaine Ste. Barbe, which explains why both names are on the label. Plenty of acidity supports their easy-to drink fruity 2022 Macon-Villages “Les Tilles” (91 pts, $20). As Jean-Maire exclaims with a smile, “we don’t need to think all the time.” Jean-Marie’s stellar 2022 Viré-Clessé show why those two villages deserve their own appellation. The saline-like acidity amplifies the charms of the finesse-filled 2022 Viré-Clessé “Vieilles Vignes” that comes from 50-year-old vines (92 pts, $20), while the Viré-Clessé “Chazelles” displays a touch more ripeness without sacrificing any elegance (94 pts, $24). As you can see, the wines are a bargain.

Moving to the Côte d’Or, Domaine Michel Bouzereau, led by Jean-Baptiste, is another “can’t miss” producer. He started harvest earlier than usual and was thrilled with the results because of the precision and freshness of the wines. He explains that there’s “plenty of flesh to go with the energy.” No disagreement on my part. As with past vintages, their 2022s wines are simply marvelous. You just can’t go wrong with any of the wines from this producer, one of Meursault’s best. I can recommend only one specific wine, their vibrant and deep 2022 Bourgogne Côte d’Or, because all the others were still in barrel or had just been racked. However, judging from my past experience with their wines and how the other wines were showing, I have no doubt that their 2022s will be exemplary when bottled. My advice: buy what you can find and can afford.

Bouzereau has used the new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, which indicates that all the grapes came from the Côte d’Or, the heart of Burgundy, as opposed to anywhere else in the region. Sixty percent of the grapes for this marvelous Bourgogne Blanc came from Meursault and the remainder from Puligny-Montrachet, but obviously, from outside of those village appellations. You wouldn’t know it from tasting the wine. Crisp and riveting, it delivers a marvelous and seamless combination of minerals and subtle fruitiness. Tasted blind, it would be easy to mistake it for a village Meursault, except, of course, for the price (93 pts, $37). Michel Bouzereau’s equally compelling and suavely textured 2022 Bourgogne Rouge Côte d’Or (93 pts, $38) is a good reminder that wines with a down-market pedigree from a top producer is where to find value in Burgundy.

My visit and tasting at Domaine Jean Pascal et Fils, a 35-acre family-run estate based in Puligny-Montrachet was motivated by their stunning 2020 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Blanc, a case of which lies in my cellar. Alexandra, the daughter-in-law of the recently deceased Jean Pascal, like others, started the harvest early, August 22, to capture acidity. It worked. Their racy 2022 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Blanc, like the 2020, is stunning for a Bourgogne Blanc and is just another example of the importance of buying wines with lesser pedigrees from top producers (92 pts, $32). A big step up in depth, complexity and price, Pascal’s 2022 rich and vibrant Meursault out-performs its village appellation (94 pts, $66). Their striking 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumaux combines weight and a captivating floral element with vibrancy (95 pts, $92 for the 2020). Pascal’s entire range is easy to recommend.

Domaine Méo-Camuzet, like other top growers, has a négociant business to supplement their production. None of the wines at Méo-Camuzet were bottled when I tasted there in November, but the range was splendid. Though the label of the bottled wines will eventually distinguish the domaine from the négociant wines, it’s difficult to see the distinction when tasting barrel samples of the two. The same consistency and high-quality is evident in both. What also struck me was the vibrancy and energy of Méo-Camuzet’s 2022s. My advice, buy what you can afford. In my experience, Méo-Camuzet’s wines develop magnificently with bottle age.

The advantage of tasting at Burgundy’s top négociants is the ability to sample a wide range of wines from throughout Burgundy as opposed to a grower’s range, which is typically narrower and limited to their home territory. Additionally, tasting with Véronique Drouhin (winemaker at the family run firm of Maison Joseph Drouhin) and Frédéric Barnier (winemaker at Maison Louis Jadot) allows an assessment of how individual producer styles—elegant and lacey for Drouhin; sturdier and more robust for Jadot, fare in a particular vintage. Spoiler alert: Both styles succeeded marvelously in 2022. None of the wines at either house had been bottled when I tasted, so I cannot give specific recommendations. That said, Drouhin and Jadot each produced a spectacular array of 2022s, reflecting their respective styles, but also allowing the origins of the grapes to speak clearly, reinforcing the success and transparency of the vintage. I’ve long been a fan of both houses, have great experience tasting their wines young and watching how they develop with cellaring. Though differently styled, of course, Drouhin’s and Jadot’s 2022s are sensational young wines. I recommend them enthusiastically. I repeat my opening advice: buy as much of the 2022s as your budget allows from producers you like.

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E-mail me your thoughts about Burgundy at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein

February 14, 2024

Gravity Exists in Burgundy

January 10, 2024 2:51 pm

In recent memory, prices for Burgundy have seemed to defy gravity—they always rise. The prices at this year’s recently completed Hospices de Beaune auction, the 163^rd, actually fell, demonstrating that gravity does exist there. The average price per barrel was €30,839 ($33,642), down 14 percent compared to 2022, but consumers may not notice any difference anytime soon because of the complexity of the market. Still, it’s good news because the 2023 vintage was even larger than the generous and superb 2022, so cellars are full, which at least sets the stage for possible price reductions. That said, the priciest barrel, a grand cru, Bâtard-Montrachet Cuvée Dames de Flandres, went for €350,000 ($381,500), up 14 percent compared to last year.

The Hospices de Beaune auction is no ordinary wine auction. This auction catalogue lists no special bottles, no extravagant vacations, no winemakers’ dinners. The locals call it Vente des Vins (sale of wines) because that what’s sold: barely finished-fermenting, unfinished wine still in barrel from the just completed harvest. Until 2005, bidding was limited to local négociants, such as Albert Bichot, Louis Jadot, or Robert Drouhin, to name just three, who would perform the élevage (literally, raising or finishing) the wine, bottle, and sell it via the usual commercial channels roughly two years after the auction. Now, however, Sotheby’s runs the auction and individuals can bid—in person, via the internet, or via telephone. Winning bidders take delivery of the wine in barrel, called une piece in Burgundy, which contains 228 liters or about 300 bottles. An individual whose bid is successful will have arranged, in advance, with a local négociant to raise, bottle, and ship the wine. At least one négociant, Albert Bichot, allows individuals to buy one-quarter or one-half a barrel by putting customers together. (https://hospices-beaune.com/en/buy-wine-auction/faq-how-to-buy-barrel-hospices-beaune-auction-albert-bichot/).

In addition to obtaining a top-notch Burgundy, an additional incentive for individuals to bid is to see their name on the label. The label of the bottled wine contains the emblem of the Hospices de Beaune, the appellation and name of the cuvée, the négociant who raised the wine, and the name of the individual who purchased it.

The Ventes de Vins weekend, highlighted by the auction on the third Sunday in November, is, in a word, a blast, both for wine geeks as well as people who just like to party. Wine enthusiasts will arrive a week or two in advance and arrange tastings. Then, on Friday night, the charming town of Beaune (population 20,000) hosts an enormous outdoor party. Lights, street performers, marching bands, and an influx of 40,000 merry makers transform the normally sleepy town. Locals will greet you with, “bon Ventes de Vins,” much as we would say, “good afternoon.” Pop-up food stands offering foie gras, frogs’ legs, oysters, and oeufs en murette, the uniquely Burgundian dish of eggs and bacon poached in red wine or sauced with Époisses, surround the Place Carnot and adjacent streets. Wine, of course, flows everywhere. It’s a family affair with parents pushing kids in strollers and dogs hoping for—and usually finding—dropped morsels. At times the streets are so densely packed, it’s difficult to move. Saturday features a cork-pulling contest as well as the traditional half-marathon through the vineyards that starts, oddly enough, at two in the afternoon, “to give runners time to have a decent lunch,” as one resident explained to me. This year multiple art exhibits in Beaune and Pommard featuring local artists drew crowds.

The origin of the wines is as unique as the auction itself. The Hospices de Beaune (hospital of Beaune) owns about 150-acres of vineyards, most of which are classified as grand or premier cru, that have been donated to it over the centuries, making it one of the largest landowners and one of the most important producers in Burgundy. So, along with a Chief of Medicine and Chief of Surgery, the hospital has a full-time winemaker, who supervises 20-plus winegrowers that tend the vineyards. (As a physician myself, I’d love to attend those staff meetings!)

At this year’s auction, the 754 barrels sold raised about €23.3 million ($25.4 million). A special barrel, Pièce des Présidents, which contained a Grand Cru, Mazis-Chambertin, Cuvée Madeleine Collignon, fetched €350,000 ($381,500), which will be donated to two charities, Fondation pour la Recherche Médicale (FRM) and the Initiative de Recherche pour une Longévité en Bonne Santé (IRLB), both of which are dedicated to research into improving life expectancy and maintaining good health. The remaining roughly €23 million goes to the Hospices de Beaune to finance major new structural projects in 2024, including construction of a new hospital building, upgrading hospital equipment with cutting edge technology, and modernizing the winery.

The barrel itself for the Pièce des Présidents came from a 200-plus year-old oak tree, the majority of which was used as the new spire in the rebuilding of Notre Dame de Paris that was destroyed in 2019. Enough remained after the spire was in place to be used to make the special barrel.

Although most of the buyers hailed from Europe—Albert Bichot alone purchased 156 barrels, accounting for fully one-third of the sales—the sale attracted buyers from all over Asia, including Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan, Singapore, and China, according to Matthew Floris, press officer for Sotheby’s.

Ludivine Griveau, the current winemaker and first female to hold that position, was very pleased with the quality of the 2023s. From Hospices de Beaune vineyards, she produced 51 cuvées (bottlings) in 2023. She explained that variable weather during the growing season resulted in uneven ripening of the grapes. So, she and her team had to make a severe selection to eliminate diseased, unripe, or over-ripe ones. She estimated that she discarded 10 to 15 percent of the crop that made it to the winery and added that the harvesters could have discarded twice that amount in the vineyard. As a result, fewer barrels were up for sale at the 2023 auction (754 barrels, 475 of red and 179 or white) compared to 802 in 2022, despite a larger harvest.

To me, though the reds of 2023 were more difficult to taste because of their structure compared to the suave 2022s, they had purity of fruit, enlivening acidity, and balance. It appears Griveau’s severe selection paid off. If other producers did as well—and it’s far too early to tell—the 2023 vintage could be notable for both quantity and quality.

For details concerning the 2024 Hospices de Beaune auction, always held on the third Sunday in November, contact Sotheby’s by emailing [email protected] or [email protected].

Remembering Mike Grgich: The Man Who Put California Wines on the Map

January 3, 2024 10:00 pm

The wine world lost a giant last month. Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, the man who thrust California wine onto the world’s stage, died at age 100 at his home in Calistoga in the Napa Valley.

Grgich, more than anyone, is responsible for California’s reputation as a place that could make great wine when his 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay took first place at a wine competition that pitted France’s best white Burgundies against upstarts from California. And he did it unintentionally—more about that later.

The late Steven Spurrier, an Englishman who owned a wine shop in Paris, organized the competition in 1976 (now dubbed “The Judgement of Paris”) in celebration of America’s bicentennial.

Just consider the array of white Burgundies that Chateau Montelena upended: Domaine Roulot’s 1973 Meursault Charmes, (whose current release sells for $1,307 a bottle, according to winesercher.com), Drouhin’s 1973 famed Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc ($289), Domaine Leflaive’s 1972 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles ($1,043), and a 1973 Bâtard Montrachet, Grand Cru, from Ramonet Prudhon. For comparison, the current release price of Chateau Montelena is $75.

The all-French judges (except for Spurrier and his American associate, Patricia Gallagher) were no novices. All were luminaries of the French food and wine establishment and included Jean-Claude Vrinat, owner of the then three-star Michelin restaurant, Taillevent; Odette Kahn, the editor of La Revue du vin de France, France’s most important wine guide; Christian Vannequé, the sommelier at La Tour d’Argent, another Michelin three-star restaurant at the time; and Aubert de Villaine, the co-owner, and, at the time, the director of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, (the fabled “DRC,”) Burgundy’s most revered estate.

The late James Barret, a lawyer and businessman, hired Grgich to be winemaker at Napa Valley’s Chateau Montelena shortly after he purchased it in 1972. The story goes that Barret wanted to make a great red wine. After all, Montelena was in Napa Valley, where Cabernet was king. Grgich explained that a red wine project would take years to generate sales because of the time needed to plant the vines and then age the wine. So, for cash flow, they settled on making Chardonnay to start. What a serendipitous start! Though the Napa Valley received acclaim when Montelena won, 70 percent of the grapes for that award-winning Chardonnay came from the Sonoma Valley, according to Dan Berger, the legendary California-based wine writer.

Miljenko Grgich was born on April 1, 1923, in Desne, Yugoslavia, in what is now Croatia. The youngest of eleven, Grgich spent his childhood among the vines which his parents, who were farmers, cultivated in addition to vegetables and livestock. His parents died while he was still a young boy, so an older sister raised him.

He studied viticulture and enology at the University of Zagreb, but had his studies interrupted by the arrival of the Yugoslav Communists. Living in Zagreb in 1949 was not easy. He recalls carrying a mattress he made from cornhusks to give to his sister, so she didn’t have sleep on the cement floor of the cell where the ruling Communists had imprisoned her. Eager to escape the Communists, Grgich left university before graduating after he received a United Nations-sponsored fellowship and visa to emigrate to Germany. From Germany he made his way to Canada after the U.S. declined his application for a visa. He sailed to Canada where he was supposed to cut trees in the Yukon. Luck struck when he missed the train to the Yukon and wound up instead in Vancouver where he heard about the “paradise” of the Napa Valley. He placed an ad in a California newspaper where Lee Stewart, owner and winemaker of Souverain Cellars, read it and offered him a job and—more importantly—sponsored his immigration application.

One of his big breaks came when the fabled Russian-born California winemaker, André Tchelistcheff, hired him as a chemist to analyze wine at Beaulieu Vineyards. After BV, the legendary Robert Mondavi hired Grgich as winemaker where he made Mondavi’s famous 1969 Cabernet Sauvignon, which was selected as California’s best Cabernet at a prestigious tasting organizer by Robert Balzer of the Los Angeles Times.

In 1977, Grgich went into partnership with Austin Hills of Hills Brothers Coffee and Hills’ sister, Mary Lee Strebl. Paul Landeros, an independent viticulturist who worked for both Hills and Chateau Montelena put the two together. He knew Hills, who already owned vineyards, was looking for a winemaker. They broke ground on July 4, 1977. And the rest, as they say, is history.

In addition to the awards Grgich Hills Estate wines have received, Mike Grgich is justifiably proud of his other accomplishments. Thanks to his viticultural training in Zagreb, Grgich almost immediately noticed upon arriving in the Napa Valley the similarity between Zinfandel and Croatia’s Plavic Mali grape. He helped convince Carole Meredith to research Zinfandel’s origins and was thrilled when his visual acumen was confirmed by DNA testing, which showed Plavic Mali and Zinfandel arose from a common ancestor.

With the demise of Communism and the independence of Croatia, Grgich told me a decade ago that a new era for Croatian wines was on the horizon. He went on to make wine from the Croatian local grapes, Posic and Plavic Mali, on the Dalmatian coast. In addition to his enological expertise, Grgich contributed heavily to mine-clearing projects in his homeland. He was especially proud for having been recognized with two plaques in Croatia—one for wine and one for mine-clearing.

When I last met with Grgich, he had just turned 90, and was still vigorous. Though slightly stooped and walking with a cane, he met the Napa Valley wine train that stops in front of his winery. Wearing his signature beret, he would usher people into his tasting room, encouraging them to taste…and also to buy.

Some assumed his beret was to remind people that his wine beat the French whites at the Paris tasting. But his beret-wearing preceded that event by decades and reflects his parsimony. He needed to take multiple trams to school in Zagreb, where, according to Grgich, it rains as much as it does in Vancouver. On one such trip he left his umbrella behind. Too poor to buy another one, he bought a beret instead, which he figured he would never lose since it would either be on his head or folded in his pocket. His original beret is on display today, along with the cardboard suitcase that accompanied him from his home in Croatia to the Napa Valley, in the Smithsonian Museum of American History. There Grgich is honored along with another icon of Americana, Julia Child.

Despite his extraordinary success, Grgich was always a modest man, quick to thank everyone who has ever helped him. He always remembered how, in the mid 1990s, Robert Mondavi invited him back to discuss the monumental 1969 Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon when Mondavi was hosting a famous vertical Cabernet tasting. Grgich was embarrassed that Bob, who knew everything about that 1969 Cabernet—and all the others—had invited him back even though he had worked with Mondavi for a mere four years. “That, Grgich told me, “was the kind of person Robert Mondavi was—he was a generous man.”

Grgich always saw the positive, “I failed at many things, but succeeded at more…I don’t talk about my mistakes.” He eventually had a falling out—to put it mildly—with Jim Barrett, the principal owner of Chateau Montelena, who barely acknowledged Grgich’s role in the Paris tasting. But when asked about it, Grgich always took the high road, “I’m thankful he gave me a job and the opportunity to make great wine.”

Winemakers would be wise to follow Grgich’s winemaking philosophy: “Let the grapes speak. You need to preserve what’s in the grape. What’s made by God is always better than what’s made by man.” He continued, “You can measure acidity and sugar. You can’t measure aromas or complexity. You must taste.” He recounted once coming home to lunch just when harvest was about to start and not eating what his wife had just prepared. She was hurt. He explained, “I’ve just been tasting pounds of grapes.”

He often pointed out that in the current environment, “The winemaker wants to speak.” As he explained, drawing on his Croatian background, in English, “I” is written with a capital letter and “you” is lower case. In the Croatian language, it’s the opposite. “In California, the ‘I,’ the winemaker, dominates and wants to prove something. Sometimes the something is good, sometimes not. Winemakers today need to rely on their ‘feelings’ and not just the computer,” Grgich insisted. “Feelings are superior to computers when making wine.” He concluded, “Wines that are balanced—the acid, the alcohol, the aroma—will last long, like a family.”

With his signature broad smile, a sign of a man who is clearly content with himself, Grgich continued, “You need one foot in the vineyard and one foot in the winery and one foot in the marketplace. That’s why I have a cane, so if the merchants don’t sell my wine, I can beat them.”

* * *

Full disclosure: some of the material in this column was derived from a previous one of mine published on Wine Review Online on June 25, 2013.

Email me your thoughts about Grgich Hills Estate and Mike Grgich at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Michael Apstein

January 3, 2024

My Year in Review: 2023

December 27, 2023 2:46 pm

Choosing the best of 2023 is easy for me—the marriage of both our daughters to men we like and admire. Of course, wine played a role in the numerous celebrations that accompanied the weddings. We uncorked and drank many birth year wines, 1988 and 1992, that I had purchased soon after the kids were born, which reminded me of important lessons that I’d like to pass on.

Most importantly, wine is not just about the wine. It’s not consumed in a vacuum. I suspect all these wines tasted better because of the setting in which they were consumed and the memories they evoked.

The still youthful 1992 magnum of Château Latour, packed with that Pauillac power of tar and minerals, showed that great producers excel even in tough years! Echoing that sentiment were the elegant and graceful—and ready to drink but not tired—magnum of 1992 Léoville Las Cases.

Seven-fifties of the 1992 stablemates Taylor Fladgate and Fonseca, both still youthful at 30 years of age, proved how great producers can turn out monumental wines in superb years. These both need another decade, at least. My daughter will no doubt open the magnums of these at her kids’ weddings!

Celebrations require Champagne and no Champagne is better than Krug. The caramel-y yet fresh and vigorous1988 was testimony to Krug’s justified fame and a reminder of just how splendidly Champagne can develop with bottle age.

Louis Latour’s stunning 1988 Corton Grancey, from magnum, was quintessential Burgundy, showing what I call flavor without weight. Its stature was evident when my red-wine-averse son-in-law asked for a second glass. It upheld the Grand Cru reputation of that appellation.

A splendid bottle of 1988 Château Lafaurie Peyraguey reminded me to open more Sauternes during the year. What is seldom perceived is how resilient these wines are. More to the point, they don’t deteriorate after being opened and can hold up in bottle, unchanged, in the fridge for a week or more. The elegant nuances of apricots in the 1988 Lafaurie Peyraguey remained evident and fresh even after being uncorked—and forgotten—in the fridge for a week.

And speaking of the virtue of large bottles, an imperial (6 liters) of brilliant 1988 Château Talbot was the perfect size for a large rehearsal dinner. The hard tannins of the 1988 Bordeaux vintage had melted away, revealing the suave grandeur and grace of this classic St. Julien. Amazingly, even at 35 years of age, the Talbot expanded as it sat in the glass! I well remember how impenetrable and tightly wound this wine was in its youth. Yet, I also remember how balanced it was even then. The lesson: If a wine is balanced in its youth do give it the time it needs to show at its best.

Not all were birth year wines. The still fresh and glorious magnum of 1989 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne was, unsurprisingly, even better than from a normal sized bottle. It’s complexity, elegance and richness were astounding for a 34-year white wine. It reminded me that great white Burgundy, like great red Bordeaux, reach a plateau and stay there for years or even decades.

My advice, if you have adequate storage, is to buy big bottles of age-worthy wines from producers you like, even in less than grand years. You will have events—graduations, engagements, births—to celebrate down the road.

Speaking of the best. This article was, for me, my most enjoyable one to write in 2023, because, like the wines, it brought back happy memories. So, thank you Ian for suggesting the topic.

Château Lagrange : From A Diamond in the Rough to A Sparkling Gem

December 20, 2023 2:54 pm

It’s amazing what money and dedication to a goal can do. Suntory, the Japanese multinational brewing and distilling company, purchased the neglected and run-down Château Lagrange (an estate classified as a Third Growth in the famed Médoc Classification of 1855) in 1983 for a reported 10 million U.S. dollars—a bargain by today’s standards. (In 2019, each of four Cru Classé Médoc estates reportedly sold for more than 100 million U. S. dollars.) The property was in abysmal shape when Suntory purchased it. Roughly half of its 118 ha (300 acres) of vines were not even in production. And among the ones that were, a significant proportion were diseased. Suntory wound up pouring three times as much money over the next few years into renovating the cellars and vineyards, and most importantly, hiring a team that shared their vision of making the best wine possible. Matthieu Bordes, now the estate’s general manager and chief winemaker, recounts how initially the Bordelais were concerned, and even a little frightened, that a Japanese company was going to buy a prime Bordeaux château. But their apprehension evaporated when it became apparent that Suntory was in it for the long haul. Bordes explains that they (Suntory) are great to work with, have lots of money, and understand the long-term nature of the project, which was key given the work that was needed.

To celebrate the fortieth anniversary of Suntory’s ownership of Château Lagrange, Bordes recently hosted a vertical tasting of their wines, from 1982 to 2019, in New York City. The most important take-away from the tasting was how much the wines, both le grand vin and the second wine, had improved under Suntory’s stewardship. Pricing has not yet caught up to quality, making Château Lagrange a relative bargain among Classified Bordeaux. Meanwhile, the so-called “second wine” of the estate, Les Fiefs, allows consumers to get a peek at the stature of a top Bordeaux at a fraction of the price. It is a consistently good buy, and, as the tasting notes show, also develops beautifully with bottle age.

Marcel Ducasse, whom Suntory put in charge of the project in 1983, once told me that the quickest way to improve a wine was to create a second wine, which is exactly what he did, creating Les Fiefs de Lagrange in 1983. Previously, “tous dans la meme fosse,” quipped Marcel (everything in the same hole). Bordes explains that “everyone has young vines (that typically produce inferior fruit) and press wine,” or diseased vines and grapes so it makes no sense to blend it all together. By making a strict selection, bottling only the best of the harvest, a much better wine appears virtually overnight as opposed to waiting a decade or two to rejuvenate vineyards. On average, Lagrange now typically bottles a staggering 60 percent of their total production as the second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange.

Of course, a rigorous selection of the best grapes means less wine going into le grand vin. The financial theory goes that you can sell the smaller quantities of the newly improved grand vin (1^st wine) at a higher price and supplement the revenue with sales of the 2^nd wine. That’s the theory. That calculus may work for the First Growths, but not necessarily for the less prestigious estates. In practice, Bordes recalls that Lagrange did not show a profit for the first 14 years Suntory owned it, which seemed to be of little concern to them since the estate was only one of their 300-plus companies and even today has no real impact on the company’s bottom line.

Bordes, who joined Ducasse’s team in 2006 and became General Manager and head winemaker in 2013, explained that more precision in the vineyard and the cellar took the quality of both le grand vin and Les Fiefs to a new level. By precision, he means knowing the best places to plant each of the three varieties of reds, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot, that comprise both le grand vin and Les Fiefs. Precision also means tending and harvesting each plot individually. So, one of the first things Bordes did, in 2008, soon after he arrived, was map the soils of the vineyard. Even as dilapidated as it was, Lagrange had the distinct advantage of its terroir—its 300-acres of vineyards were divided into two large parcels surrounding the chateau. Unlike many Bordeaux estates which have added plots, sometimes of dubious quality, over the years to their estate, no additional land in inferior parts of St. Julien had ever been incorporated into Château Lagrange. Bordes’ team next drilled 200 holes and analyzed the soil, discovering seventeen different types that allowed them to divide the vineyard in 103 unique plots.

Of course, precision in the vineyard doesn’t do any good if the grapes from each plot cannot be vinified separately. Bordes recounted how Suntory was initially hesitant to invest in 100 new small, but expensive, stainless-steel tanks that would be used for only a month or two a year to replace the 54 larger vats they currently had. So, Bordes convinced them to start with a few. Everyone saw the leap in quality. Now, Bordes works with 102 small vats for their 103 parcels. Money certainly helps.

Bordes can now predict, with about 80 percent accuracy, which plots will deliver grapes for le grand vin and which plots’ grapes will wind up in Les Fiefs de Lagrange. For the other 20 percent of plots, he says, with a typical Gallic smile, “ça depends” (it depends). There are years, he explains, when he is surprised to find that even relatively young vines have produced grapes of sufficient quality to qualify for le grand vin.

The farming has changed to a more Japanese approach of organic and sustainable since Suntory took over. Bordes notes that the Bordeaux maritime climate makes exclusively organic farming difficult, if not impossible. So, about one-third of the vineyards are farmed organically with a noticeable decrease in use of chemicals. Their goal is to be fully sustainable. To deal with climate change, they no longer remove leaves from the south or west facing rows, which helps keep the grapes in the shade. They also stopped the practice of de-acidification of the wine in 2009, since climate change robs the grapes—and subsequently the wine—of needed acidity. As a result, and as the tasting notes show, the wines have an invigorating freshness.

Precision in harvesting is critical, according to Bordes. Delaying picking, even for a day or two, for lack of workers can throw a batch of wine out of balance as sugar, and resulting alcohol, levels, rise. So, instead of relying on a communal labor pool, Lagrange employs its own team of harvesters, mostly from Belgium or Spain, who are always available. They may sit idle for a day or two, but when Bordes thinks a parcel is ready, he has the workforce necessary and ready to go to get the grapes to the winery.

Bordes also attributes the increased quality to the 60 ha (150 acres) of vines that Ducasse planted in the 1980s, which are now old enough to produce fruit capable of being included in le grand vin. Currently, Cabernet Sauvignon represents 67 percent of plantings, followed by Merlot at 28 percent, and Petit Verdot at five percent. When replanting—they replant about 8 ha (20 acres) a year—they favor Cabernet Sauvignon over Merlot because with the warming brought about by climate changes, Cabernet can ripen better, replacing its potentially green tannins with supple ones. This effect is seen in the blend of le grand vin over time with the proportion of Cabernet increasing from 46 percent in 2005 to 86 percent in the 2022. Bordes believes that Cabernet Sauvignon will comprise 90 to 95 percent over the blend by 2043. Although he likes Merlot, Bordes says, it must be planted on “great soil.” Bordes describes Petit Verdot as the “doctor wine” that can provide a boost of tannins, acidity, and alcohol.

Another reason the wines have gotten far better, according to Bordes, is the meticulous care handling and then selecting the grapes from their one million vines. Harvest is done entirely by hand. Harvesters put grape bunches into small baskets to minimize bruising the fruit. Since the vines surround the chateau, the grapes get to the winery within 10 minutes of harvest, minimizing the opportunity for oxidation. At the cuverie, the bunches are spread on a vibrating table so workers can remove those that are diseased as well as extraneous material. The bunches are then destemmed. The destemmed grapes move to another vibrating table for further human inspection and sorting. Then, the 1.5 billion berries go through an optical scanner to detect defects not seen by the human eye. Bordes says though the optical scanner is new—they rented it in 2009 and purchased it the following year—he “could hire someone who worked in a cellar 150 years ago because nothing there has changed.” They still fine with egg whites and bottle the wines themselves.

In addition to the increased quality of the wines due to the changes they’ve made at Château Lagrange over the decades, Bordes believes that the “drinking window,” as he refers to it, has expanded. He prefers to drink le grand vin at between eight and 25 years of age.

Château Lagrange started producing a white wine, Les Arums de Lagrange, in 1996, from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, and Semillon planted on about 4-ha (10 acres). It has become quite popular, especially in Japan where they sell 70 percent of the current 40,000 bottle annual production, allowing them to expand the plantings to its current 11 ha (28 acres). Les Arums is bottled in a clear white bottle, instead of the traditional green one, to suit the Japanese preference.

In 2012, Lagrange started bottling a wine, called Haut-Médoc de Lagrange, made from grapes grown just outside the St. Julien appellation from land they purchased in the Haut-Médoc appellation. With the 2019 vintage, they changed the name to Pagus de Lagrange to comply with appellation regulations.

The wines in this tasting report.

Château Lagrange Les Arums de Lagrange 2019 Bordeaux Blanc 93

The remarkably fresh, especially given the weather, 2019 Les Arums delivers the engaging fragrance and attractive bite of Sauvignon Blanc combined with a subtle creaminess that I ascribe to Semillon. Wonderfully uplifting freshness in the finish amplifies its appeal. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (77%) and Semillon (23%). Drinking window: 2023– 2026.

Château Lagrange 2019 Saint Julien Cru Classé 97

Bordes relates how he always speaks with his Suntory bosses before making the blend to get an idea of how much grand vin to make. For the superb 2019 vintage, his bosses told him that, as always, they wanted him to make the best wine he could, but in 2019 they really wanted the very best wine even if it meant making far less of it. So, a measly 30 percent of the production—the lowest ever—went into le grand vin for the 2019. The succulent and suave 2019, filled with a seamless mixture of black fruits and minerals, reflects the smashing quality of the vintage. Even with the high percentage (80%) of Cabernet Sauvignon, the tannins are smooth and silky at this stage, a character that Bordes attributes to climate change. The 2019 displays a Pauillac-like power and minerality without losing any of the quintessential St. Julien balanced and elegance. This fleshy wine should develop beautifully over decades. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon 80%, Merlot 18%, Petit Verdot 2%. Drinking window: 2029-2059.

Les Fiefs de Lagrange 2016 Saint Julien Cru Bordeaux 93

The depth of ripe, succulent black fruit intertwined with minerality belies that fact that this is a second wine. The tannins are remarkably fine, though not as suave as in le grand vin—a lambswool versus cashmere kind of comparison. Enlivening acidity keeps the fleshy 2016 Les Fiefs alive and bright and balances its ripeness. You feel the glossiness imparted by oak aging (14 months, only 20 percent new) without tasting the wood. Bordes explains that “oak is the fourth grape variety,” and you need to be careful not to overwhelm the wine. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon 55%, Merlot 41%, Petit Verdot 4%. Drinking window: 2023-2033.

Château Lagrange 2016 Saint Julien Cru Classé 97

The extraordinary 2016, one of Lagrange’s best, combines the elegance of the 2009 with the power of the 2010. It delivers the impeccable balance of dark fruit and minerals, all wrapped in silky tannins. Weighing in at 13.7 percent alcohol, the 2016 is elegant, not overdone, with uplifting freshness that amplifies it charms. A subtle hint of bitterness in its astonishingly long finish adds to its appeal. Despite the sizeable (70%) amount of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, its velvety texture makes it approachable now. Bordes reports that the key was “picking at the right time.” The risk, he continues, was succumbing to the temptation to wait to achieve a little more ripeness since the weather during harvest was fine. The danger, of course, was to wind up with overripe grapes and over extracted wines. Bordes avoided both those pitfalls in 2016. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 70%, Merlot 24%, Petit Verdot 6%Drinking window: 2026-2056. .

Château Lagrange 2015 Saint Julien Cru Classé 92

Rain in September weakened what could have been a great vintage, according to Bordes. He needed to include a relatively high percentage (8%) of Petit Verdot in the blend to compensate. That said, succulent black fruit compliments the subtle earthy tones. A lovely, slightly herbaceous character, is emerging, indicating the 2105 is just starting to enter its mature phase. The tannins are fine, not as suave as the those of the more youthful 2019, but not intrusive or distracting. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 75%, Merlot 17%, Petit Verdot 8%Drinking window: 2024-2044.

Château Lagrange 2010 Saint Julien Cru Classé 95

Powerful, yet tightly closed, the massive 2010 Lagrange tastes far younger than the 2015. You’d never guess the meaty mineral-packed 2010 is 13 years old. While extracted and concentrated, the muscular 2010 is balanced, though with more apparent tannins at this stage. This fresh and full-bodied youthful wine opens a touch as it sits in the glass. That said, the 2010 really needs years more to reveal itself. Bordes describes it as a classic, ripe “old-style” vintage with “al dente” tannins in the finish that will age beautifully. Cabernet Sauvignon comprised 75 percent of the blend. He didn’t include any Petit Verdot in the blend in 2010 because, as he noted, “it didn’t need it.” A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 75%, Merlot 25% (95, Drinking window: 2026-2063.

Château Lagrange 2009 Les Fiefs de Lagrange Saint Julien Cru Bordeaux 92

Despite being ready to drink earlier than le grand vin, Les Fiefs also develops nicely over a decade or so. The mid-weight 2009 Les Fiefs now displays cedar and engaging savory leafy notes with fewer mineral notes. As with the younger version, the tannins of the 2009 Les Fiefs are a touch coarser than those of le grand vin. But frankly, if drunk by itself instead of side-by-side with its big brother, one could be excused for not identifying it as a second wine. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 57%, Merlot 35%, Petit Verdot 8%. Drinking window: 2023-2030.

Château Lagrange 2009 Saint Julien Cru Classé 96

The gorgeous and impeccably balanced 2009, the first vintage for which Bordes had full responsibility, delivers a distinct dark minerality enrobed by a suave texture. Long and silky, it’s far fresher and livelier than the more powerful 2010. Bordes notes the blend was nearly identical for the two vintages, so the difference was likely just the vintage conditions. Still youthful, the voluptuous 2009 expresses the first hint of maturity, making it hard to resist for drinking now. Its profile Just less than half of the total production made it into le grand vin in 2009, which helps explain its grandeur. Cabernet Sauvignon 73%, Merlot 27%Drinking window: 2023-2053.

Château Lagrange 2005 Saint Julien Cru Classé 93

Leafy nuances indicate that the 2005 is ready, while the nicely integrated tannic backbone suggests there’s no rush. A marvelous interplay between savory notes and black currant ones adds enormous appeal. The even split of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (roughly 45 percent each) is characteristic of pre-Bordes vintages. The tannins are slightly less refined that those of more current vintages but are not intrusive. Bordes believes the inclusion of nine percent Petit Verdot helps the texture. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon 46%, Merlot 45%, Petit Verdot 9%. Drinking window: 2023-2043.

Château Lagrange 2003 Saint Julien Cru Classé 90

The 2003, a product of the first swelting (climate-change) vintage, has turned out far better than anyone would have expected. Sticky tannins support the ripe black currant and slightly prune-y fruit in this blend, while licorice-like notes add an appealing contrast. The acidity is surprisingly good given the scorching heat of the vintage. Bordes believes the way the 2003 has evolved shows that Lagrange’s terroir is nicely equipped to handle global warming. Cabernet Sauvignon 57%, Merlot 33%, Petit Verdot 10%. Drinking window: 2023-2030).

Château Lagrange 2000 Saint Julien Cru Classé 95

Prior to the 2019 Lagrange, the 2000 contained the lowest percentage of wine for le grand vin, a measly 34 percent of the production. Ducasse’s feeling was that it had to be superb because of the of notoriety of a vintage that ended with three zeros. Perfumed and plush, the voluptuous 2000 exudes a blissful combination of minerals and dark cassis-like fruitiness accented by a touch of savory smokiness. Its freshness and length are beguiling. With 76 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, it predicts—and predates—the modern blend. Cabernet Sauvignon 76%, Merlot 24%. Drinking window: 2023-2043).

Château Lagrange 1996 Saint Julien Cru Classé 96

The gorgeous, fully mature 1996 demonstrates why people should cellar top Bordeaux. The interplay of tobacco and cedar aromatics with fresh and dried fruits—and a touch of meatiness as well—dazzles the palate. The seamlessly integrated tannins lend support to this graceful wine. At 25-plus years of age, the 1996 Lagrange remains fresh and lively, without a hint of fatigue. Bordes notes they had to chapitalize the ’96 because it was such a cool year was a cool year—does not seemed to have harmed it. Cabernet Sauvignon 57%, Merlot 36%, Petit Verdot 7%. Drinking window: 2023-2033.

Château Lagrange 1990 Saint Julien Cru Classé 88

The clearly mature and burly 1990 was a disappointment especially given the stature of the vintage. Uncharacteristically, it lacked generosity despite the introduction of Petit Verdot to the blend. Drying tannins detracted from the sweet fruit. Bordes felt that a touch of Brettanomyces stripped the wine. Cabernet Sauvignon 44%, Merlot 44%, Petit Verdot 12%. Drinking window: now.

Château Lagrange 1983 Saint Julien Cru Classé 91

The previous owners made the now fully mature and gamey 1983 Château Lagrange, but Ducasse not doubt improved it by creating Les Fiefs that year. Upon pulling the cork, the wine was quite funky, but cleaned with aeration to show graceful maturity, meaty concentration, and suave tannins, all accentuated by freshness. The blend is approximately Cabernet Sauvignon 55%, Merlot 45%Drinking window: now.

Château Lagrange 1982 Saint Julien Cru Classé 94

Even with the neglected vineyards, indifferent wine making, and no second wine, the meaty and mature 1982, from a pre-Suntory vintage, shines. It shows the fundamental importance and depth of Lagrange’s terroir as well as the grandeur of the vintage. Despite black tea aromas that Bordes attributes to perfectly ripe Cabernet, the succulent 1982 displays a captivating Pomerol-like exotic profile. The suave tannins allow the long and fresh finish to shine. Drinking window: now.

From Decanter Magazine: Domaine des Baumard’s Quarts de Chaume: World-class sweet wines

December 17, 2023 8:28 pm

You can be forgiven if you are unfamiliar with the Quarts de Chaume appellation. After all, when I mentioned to a well-known wine-writer colleague based in San Francisco that I was writing about it, he said, ‘What’s that?’

The appellation should be on every wine lover ’s radar, because it’s home to one of the world’s greatest sweet wines.

Only about 40ha in size, and shrinking, the appellation sits within the wider AP Coteaux du Layon in the Anjou district, in western Loire. It has the distinction of being the Loire’s sole grand cru, approved by the French National Institute for Origin and Quality (INAO) in 2014.

About 20 producers bottle just over 50,000 bottles annually, which helps explain why the wines are not as well-known as they rightly should be – compare that figure to the five million bottles produced each year in Sauternes and Barsac, home to another of the world’s finest sweet wines.

Domaine des Baumard, with its 6ha, is the largest producer of Quarts de Chaume, and is certainly one of, if not the, best producers.

Just below this pinnacle lies two appellations, Coteaux du Layon Premier Cru Chaume and Bonnezeaux. Rounding out the area for sweet wines is the broader Coteaux du Layon appellation.

Quarts de Chaume’s history

Quality wine from this section of the Loire has been known for 1,000 years. Indeed, Quarts de Chaume takes its name from the custom of winegrowers paying the Abbess of Ronceray in Angers in the Middle Ages a quarter (quart, in French) of the crop from the famed south-facing slope that comprises the appellation.

Because of its complexity – a mixture of schist, sandstone, quartz, rhyolites and spilites (volcanic rock like basalt) – winemakers have called the soil of this sunny hillside along the Layon river, a tributary of the Loire, ‘geological chaos’.

Exposure to morning mist rising from the Layon allows for the development of botrytis cinerea, also known as noble rot. Though Chenin Blanc is required for producing Quarts de Chaume, botrytis is not necessary, according to the appellation regulations. Indeed, Florent Baumard, who took the reins from his father, Jean, in 1990, explains that botrytis has the potential to overwhelm the character of wines and to obliterate the sense of terroir.

Chenin Blanc is excellent for transmitting the taste of the vineyard, according to Baumard, so in his mind, it is important not to overshadow it with botrytis. He likes a blend of roughly a third each of botrytis-affected grapes, concentrated berries and ripe ones, ‘to bring freshness, happiness and elegance’, to the wine.

Domaine des Baumard chronicled

Baumard dates the domaine to 1634 when his ancestors were cultivating grapes on land that is still part of the estate. After phylloxera, Baumard family members became nurserymen, supplying the region with new vines.

In 1955, the modern history of the domaine began in earnest with the arrival of Jean Baumard. Having trained in oenology in Dijon and Bordeaux, he started buying vineyards, including, in 1957, the 6ha of Quarts de Chaume, whose vines now average 35 years of age.

Jean is widely credited with the revival of the appellation. His son, Florent, returned to the domaine in 1987 after studying in England and the US, and became general director on Jean’s retirement in 1990.

In the vineyard and cellar

The two critical points in winemaking are picking and pressing the grapes, according to Baumard. He explains that harvesting Chenin Blanc for Quarts de Chaume is especially difficult because ripeness of the berries even within a bunch is variable.

As in other parts of the world known for sweet or late harvest wines, pickers go through the vineyard multiple times, harvesting by hand, selecting only the best bunches and discarding unsatisfactory fruit. Baumard notes that ‘the whole vineyard can change in a couple of days’.

The team uses small baskets, as though they were harvesting peaches, to collect the grape bunches, because ‘the grapes, like peaches, need to be pristine for the terroir to show,’ says Baumard. Between picking and pressing, the grapes are left in a cold room to avoid oxidation.

Baumard emphasises that gentle pressing is essential, otherwise the inherent quality of the fruit is lost, and along with it the unique sense of place. Since they press with low pressure, each run can last six to 12 hours.

They will then often collect six to eight different portions, or cuts, of juice from the same press run. The first cut is set apart because it is ‘dirty’, containing skins and water. Baumard explains how since the acidity and sugar levels vary in subsequent cuts, they ferment them separately because the yeast won’t work the same way in each batch. The cuts are blended only after fermentation is complete.

Baumard says that they ‘are not looking for super extraction or super richness, just the purest juice’. He says that if they make a mistake in the picking or the pressing, there’s no way to correct it.

Fermentation is slow, occurring at low temperature to preserve fruitiness and freshness. The wines then spend nine to 18 months on the lees in stainless steel vats. Oak barrels, which would alter the harmony of the flavours, are never used.

Starting with the 2003 vintage, Domaine des Baumard has bottled its wines under screwcaps. A vocal proponent of the closure, Baumard says: ‘I was so stupid. I should have used them 20 years earlier.’

Perfect food and wine pairing companions

As though the plethora of flavours and sensations that come with the yin-yang of sweetness and acidity is not sufficient, versatility is another major attribute of Quarts de Chaume.

Young vintages display floral and delicate honeysuckle sweetness, making them a good choice as standalone aperitifs. And while their sheer vibrancy is refreshing, the faint allure of sweetness is neither heavy nor overpowering. Thus, they brilliantly balance the brininess of olives or the saltiness of nuts. For the same reasons, a young Quarts de Chaume is an ideal foil to starters, such as smoked salmon or savoury patés.

While broad generalisations about sweet wines pairing well with Chinese and Indian food are true to an extent, they are overly simplistic. How could the same wine pair with both Sichuan and Cantonese dishes?

The charms and subtleties of most wines, including Quarts de Chaume, will be overwhelmed by very hot food, such as Hunan cuisine or a fiery Indian curry, so I’d stick to beer on those occasions. However, the vibrancy and gentle sweetness of youthful Quarts de Chaume is a superb way to offset and balance the gentler spice found in many Asian and Latin American dishes. They also work extremely well with the parade of flavours inherent in a sushi dish or an omakase meal.

With increasing age, Quarts de Chaume morphs from delicately honeyed to a richer amalgam of apricot skin and orange-like citrus flavours. Finally, with more bottle age still, they even acquire lush caramel nuances.

At the more mature stages, Quarts de Chaume maintains an enlivening and uplifting acidity, which makes them an excellent choice with both hot and cold foie gras. It’s a perfect Christmas splurge.

More practically, aged Quarts de Chaume is a superb choice with cheese, especially blue or other strongly flavoured varieties. After all, what better pairing could there be than Quarts de Chaume and Colston Bassett Stilton? That said, you might be surprised at how engaging these lovely wines are, especially the younger versions, with fresh or creamy goat’s cheese, or the nuttiness of well-aged Comté.

Although some favour sweet wines with dessert, I find that the sweetness in the dessert can fight and frequently overwhelm the wine. Far better, in my opinion, is a glass of Quarts de Chaume all by itself, as a dessert in its own right.

Looking to the future

Baumard notes that climate change has been beneficial for Quarts de Chaume, because it has aided maturation of the grapes. He recounts that in the 1970s, his father harvested in mid-October, and even by then the grapes often were not ripe, necessitating chaptalisation. But since 1987, with warming growing seasons, Baumard has not needed to chaptalise, even though harvest is earlier.

Growers are increasingly requesting permission from the INAO to make dry wines from the appellation, because the market for Quarts de Chaume and sweet wine in general, sadly, has been shrinking. As Baumard notes: ‘Everyone knows about Sauternes, few about Quarts de Chaume.’

In 1996, the INAO required growers in both Quarts de Chaume and nearby Savennières to choose whether to make dry or sweet wines from Chenin Blanc. Quarts de Chaume chose sweet. ‘A historic mistake,’ according to Ivan Massonnat, co-director of the Quarts de Chaume growers’ association, which they are now trying to correct – Savennières resisted and finally the INAO relented and granted its producers permission to make both.

Currently, the dry wines from Quarts de Chaume can be sold only as Anjou Blanc. To distinguish them, many producers are labelling them under the umbrella term, Ronceray, after the abbey, or writing Dry Chenin Blanc prominently on the label. In my limited experience – I tasted about a half-dozen Ronceray, mostly from the 2020 vintage, last year – they are a most welcome addition, showing great minerality and verve.

The best wines from Quarts de Chaume, especially those from Baumard, have a lightness and grace that distinguishes them from the heavier wines of Sauternes. With its delicacy, Quarts de Chaume is more akin to German late-harvest sweet wines.

Quarts de Chaume can stay fresh and invigorating for at least a week or two after opening, though the odds any will be left in the bottle even after a week are small.

These wines develop magnificently in bottle, reaching a plateau and remaining there for decades, making them a good choice for laying down a few bottles for the future.

Tasting notes and scores for Domaine des Baumard’s Quarts de Chaume

Wines are listed in score order

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 1989

A glistening, bright copper orange colour suggests you’re in for a treat even before the floral array hits your nose – and you are! It has all the opulence of the 1997 but with more precision and finesse. A panoply of flavours – a hint of caramel, a touch of…

Points: 100

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 1985

The gleaming, light orange colour andfloral aromas belie the age of this graceful and riveting wine. At almost 40 years of age, it displays the flowery delicacy of a far younger bottling. Its crystalline finesse and delicate honeyed sweetness astonish. Tasted blind, you’d never guess its age.

Points: 100

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 2017

Leads with minerality, then a hint of botrytis, with the ever-present acidity adding balance. Not a weighty wine, its grandeur shows with a graceful and pristine presence. A touch of apricot skin character indicates that the wine is morphing from the flowery delicacy of the 2018 to the richness of…

Points: 97

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 2018

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 2018

Even at five years of age, with its pale yellow colour, this is strikingly youthful. Reinforcing that character,

vibrant aromas of white flowers explode from the glass. Citrus notes and a hint of white peaches follow, without a hint of the mature apricot skin character that appears in older Quarts…

Points: 96

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 2015

A slightly darker yellow colour and barest hint of apricots indicate that this, at eight years of age, is just starting to enter maturity. White peppery notes and a touch of citrus remind you that it is, however, still youthful. Delicate, yet persistent, it’s a joy to drink now but…

Points: 96

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 1997

The dark orange colour of this extraordinary wine is deceptive, giving the impression that it might be over the hill. Not at all! Astonishing acidity amplifies the rich and honeyed stone fruit character and imbues this multi-layered wine with life. This opulent yet balanced wine provides joy throughout a seemingly…

Points: 96

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 1988

At 35 years of age, this charmer is lighter in colour – just a hint of orange – fresher and less dense on the palate than expected. Still, distinct notes of apricots and a touch of caramel, all supported by bracing acidity, come through as expected for a wine of…

Points: 95

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 2007

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 2007

More golden than orange in colour, this is a luscious, decadent delight, with energy balancing its richness. It may lack the subtleties and grace of grander vintages, but the hallmark crystalline character of Baumard’s Quarts de Chaume is especially welcome in a year heavy with botrytis-affected grapes.

Points: 94

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 1999

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 1999

A great surprise from an unacclaimed vintage. Despite being over 20 years old, it still displays floral notes augmented by subtle nutty ones – a great yin-yang of flavours. Delicate and crystalline, it’s an expansive wine that even at its age grows in the glass.

Points: 94

Domaine des Baumard, Anjou, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Loire, France 2002

Domaine des Baumard, Anjou, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Loire, France 2002

I was expecting a better showing, with 2002 being an acclaimed vintage.

Unsurprisingly, its orange colour showed its age. A floral component is present, but the wine lacks the captivating complexity of the best vintages. That said, the combination of spice and sweetness seasoned with a hint of orange rind…

Points: 90

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 1992

Another success from a lesser vintage. Florent Baumard describes 1992 almost as bad a vintage as the rain-soaked 2012. A dark orange colour is not out of place given its 30 years of age, with dried fruit notes and a whiff of honey emerging from the glass. Though less vibrant…

Points: 90

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Anjou, Loire, France 1980

Fading and displays a duller orange colour. An array of dried fruit and nutty flavours show how these Quarts de Chaume transform from flowers to caramel and nuts with extended age. Though past its prime, its vibrant acidity mixed with a panoply of spice still makes for a fine drink.

Points: 88

Terroir is Alive and Well on Mount Etna

November 15, 2023 11:34 am

One of things I adore about wine is how it expresses Mother Nature. The same grape grown in adjacent vineyards and turned into wine by the same winemaking team can taste very different. Winemakers attribute the differences to the composition of the soil (limestone, clay, or sand) exposure to the sun (do the grapes benefit from the gentler warming of the morning sun or the more intense afternoon sun?), or a host of other differences. Even though the explanations for the differences make sense and sound reasonable, they may not truly be whole story. To me, as a scientist, that’s part of wine’s allure. We really don’t know why wine from one village tastes different from wine from another village. Sure, it may be the soil or the exposure, but it could also be a multiplicity of other factors we haven’t even thought of. The intriguing aspect is that the wines do indeed taste different! To me, that’s almost magic, and speaks to the beauty and enigma of nature.

Burgundy is ground zero for this phenomenon that the French call terroir. But the French do not have a monopoly on it. The concept exists everywhere. The trick to discovering terroir—and here is where it gets difficult—is to find a producer who makes wines from different sites. To focus on terroir, examining wines from the same producer seems obvious but is frequently difficult or even impossible. Traditionally, family-run wineries own vineyards close to home, especially those that have been in existence since the 19th and early 20th centuries, when transportation was more challenging. When Maurice Drouhin purchased his parcel in the famed Clos des Mouches vineyard in Beaune in 1921, for example, he selected it because it was the best site that he could get to, tend the vines, and return home on a horse in a day. So, it’s understandable why producers might not be making wines from disparate sites.

Chianti Classico offers a good example of how finding terroir, which clearly exists there, is difficult for the ordinary consumer or even experienced critic. The Consorzio, the organization that represents the entire DOCG, will often arrange tastings to show the differences among the now newly recognized eleven subzones: Castellina, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Gaiole, Greve, Lamole, Montefioralle, Panzano, Radda, San Casciano, San Donato in Poggio, and Vagliagli. They will line up wines from each of the subzones. Unfortunately, each will be made by a different producer because no producer makes wine in all the subzones, and few indeed even make wine in more than one. When you taste, side-by-side, the same vintage of Cecchi’s Villa Cerna Chianti Classico, which hails from Castellina, and Fontodi’s Chianti Classico located in Panzano you immediately appreciate the vast and wonderful differences between these two wines. But is that difference due to terroir or the producer’s style? Hence, to really drill down on terroir, you need to find producers who make wines in the different areas, so that their individual style doesn’t obscure the differences.

This long introduction brings me to a fascinating lesson in terroir on Sicily’s Mount Etna taught to me by Valeria Agosta, the principal of Palmento Constanzo. Valeria and her family (her daughter Serena just finished her viticulture and oenology studies in Montpelier) founded Palmento Constanzo in 2009, joining a host of producers flocking to that mountain.

There’s no question that Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano, is hot, both literally and figuratively, and has been, especially over the last two decades. Marc de Grazia, a former wine broker best known for his stellar portfolio, Marc de Grazia Selection, founded Tenuta delle Terre Nerre on Etna in 2001. Tasca d’Almerita, one the island’s driving forces, founded Tascante on the volcano in 2007. Planeta, a leading producer on Sicily with estates all over the island, expanded to Etna the following year. What might have set rumbles through the area—if it weren’t so accustomed to them—was Angelo Gaja, whose name is synonymous with greatness in Italian wines, joining forces with Alberto Graci, a top Etna producer, in 2016.

The plantings on Etna encompass three sides of the volcano, a reverse C on the map, with distinct differences among the vineyards in the north, east, and south. The western slope of the volcano is devoid of vineyards. To say Etna’s terroir is varied is an understatement given the impact of the lava flows over the centuries. Etna is, in fact, one of the few places where the terroir could change with each eruption. The vineyard area on Etna is divided into contrada, currently 132 of them, which as Valeria explains, are determined by the flow of lava. Think of the contrada as similar to the myriad appellations contained within Bordeaux though the wines, both red and white, are far more similar to Burgundies, conveying what I like to call, “flavor without weight.” Just as no one, except the locals, perhaps, claims that Pauillac is superior to Margaux, Valeria emphasizes “that all contrada are different, but not in quality.” Though there is no official stratification of the contrada, some, like Santo Spirito in the north, seem to have a loftier reputation.

Etna is home to seductive reds, made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, and vibrant whites, made from Carricante, that make you pause and think when drinking them. Valeria’s lesson on terroir focused on Carricante, a grape traditionally planted on the southern and eastern slopes, since the red grapes found better ripening on the northern slope. Starting some 10 to 15 years ago, however, Valeria noted that more growers were planting Carricante on the northern slopes. Palmento Constanzo joined that trend and now has 40 percent of their 30-acres in Santo Spirito contrada planted to Carricante. She explained that some producers are currently replanting with Carricante in place of the reds in Santo Spirito, noting that, “it’s hard to keep track.” Additionally, Palmento Constanzo planted Carricante in the Cavaliere contrada in the southwest, always popular for whites because of its elevation, sun, and the presence of sand in the lava. The contrada is also generally warmed and receives less rain than Santo Spirito in the north or other areas in the south. She can’t keep track of all the new producers there either.

Tasting Palmento Costanzo’s 2021 Etna Bianco DOC from Santo Spirito and from Cavaliere affords us the chance to see the stunning differences in terroir embedded on opposite sides of Etna. The organic farming and winemaking are the same, native yeasts, 20 percent new oak aging, and no malolactic fermentation, so where the grapes grow determine the dramatic differences between the wines.

The 2021 Cavaliere shows a profound dark minerality—lava speaking—and a deep concentration without coming across as overripe. Thankfully, not an opulent wine, a wonderful austerity balances its depth. A hint of bitterness in the ample finish amplifies its appeal. This tightly wound wine needs several years to reveal itself. (95 points; $68 for the 2019).

In contrast—and what a beautiful contrast—the 2021 Santo Spirito Etna Bianco displays a more refined minerality that is not as lava-tinged. Less concentrated than Cavaliere, the Santo Spirito displays more finesse and a lighter footprint. A similar alluring bitterness in the finish reinforces its grandeur. It, too, needs time to unfold. (95 pts.; $68 for the 2019).

By the way, Palmento Costanzo makes a terrific array of Etna DOC reds and a splendid Etna Bianco DOC, Bianco di Sei, made from younger Carricante vines. The riveting 2021 Bianco di Sei shows its charms immediately—minerality and citrus energy—and is perfect for current consumption. (93 pts.; $42 for the 2020).

Echoing Valeria, I’m equally enthralled by these two wines, in part, because of their dramatically different profiles. Are the differences due to the soil, the amount of rainfall, the exposure, a combination, or something else entirely? Who knows, exactly? That’s the magic that makes wine so fascinating.

* * *

Email me your thoughts about terroir in general or about Etna in particular at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram@MichaelApstein

November 15, 2023

Object Lesson in Excellence: E. Guigal’s Côte-Rôtie “Château d’Ampuis” 2019

October 11, 2023 10:40 pm

The Guigal family, the elder Marcel and his wife Bernadette, and their son Philippe and his wife Eve, have always focused on site specificity in the great Northern Rhône appellation of Côte-Rôtie. It started in 1966 when they bottled wine separately from La Mouline, a 2.5-acre vineyard planted with both Syrah and Viognier, in an amphitheater on the Côte Blonde slope of the appellation. A few years later, in 1978, they began bottling wine from La Landonne, a single 5.7-acre vineyard on the Côte Brune also planted to both Syrah and Viognier. Finally, in 1985, they began bottling La Turque, from another 2.5-acre vineyard, planted entirely to Syrah, on the Côte Brune.

In 1990, Guigal felt the wine from another single Côte Brune vineyard, Pommière, was distinctive enough to be bottled separately. This time, however, Guigal bottled it in magnum only and, curiously, without the vineyard name on the label. Then in 1995, they decided there were six sites (a seventh was added in 2005), both on the Côte Blonde (La Clos, La Garde, and La Grande Plantée) Côte Brune (La Pommière, Le Pavillon Rouge, Le Moulin, and La Viria, the one added in 2005) that were sufficiently distinctive to produce a high-end representation of Côte Rôtie. And thus, Château d’Ampuis was born.

The name of the wine comes from the 12th century château, a national historic monument that Guigal purchased in 1995, then painstakingly restored, and ultimately made the headquarters of this great House. Château d’Ampuis is meant as a wine to lie—in stature, production and price—between Guigal’s classic Côte-Rôtie, dubbed Brune et Blonde de Guigal (200,000 bottles annually at about $90 a bottle), and the three single vineyard bottlings, collectively known as the LaLa’s (about 5,000 bottles each annually of La Mouline and La Turque and double that for La Landonne. Each cost about $500 a bottle upon release).

The youthful 2019 Château d’Ampuis is simply stunning. The influence of long aging in new oak (38 months) is still apparent at this stage, yet not overwhelming. Based on my experience with older vintages of Château d’Ampuis as well as Guigal’s single vineyard bottlings, all of which receive similarly long oak-aging, the oak eventually marries seamlessly with the plethora of fruit, pepper, smoke, and other savory nuances found in these wines. Elegance is lent to the wine by a touch (seven percent) of Viognier in the blend, with these grapes from the Côte Blonde being co-fermented with the meaty and powerful Syrah fruit.

Unevolved at this stage, the wonderful 2019 Château d’Ampuis needs at least a decade to fully unfurl and show its splendor. (95 pts., $135, imported by Vintus).

Posted by Michael Apstein at 9:09 PM

Three Takes on Second Wines

September 20, 2023 8:30 pm

No one wants to be second. Nobody strives to come in second. Second place is just not built-in to our DNA. For example, my daughter, a NCAA Gold Medal winner coxswain during college, referred to a Silver Medal winner—2nd place—as “the first loser.” So, the so-called “second wines” can have a pejorative connotation.

Nevertheless, a recent instance of serendipity reinforced why I maintain that consumers should be embracing second wines, not shunning them. But before describing the serendipitous encounter, let me remind readers about second wines.

Though second wines are mostly associated with Bordeaux, they are found all over the world, and in many instances aren’t even called a “second wine.” Regardless of labeling or nomenclature, the concept is the same: categorize the grapes and/or wine from a property based on quality and character, and bottle them separately on two tiers. It’s easy to understand that not all parts of a vineyard will produce the same high-quality grapes because the soil and exposure of the vines are not uniform. Furthermore, the age of the vines has an enormous influence on the grape quality, and since growers replant their vines periodically, vineyards will contain plants of differing ages. So, you can understand why producers might opt to keep grapes from older vines that produce higher quality fruit separate, and relegating fruit from young vines to the second wine. In appellations where blending of varieties is allowed, another important factor will be how each variety performed that year. The late Paul Pontallier, the long-term director at Château Margaux, once told me that he diverted a substantial amount of grand vin-quality Merlot into their second wine, Pavillon Rouge, in 2005 because putting all the Merlot, even though it was of the highest quality, into the Grand Vin (1st wine) would upset its balance.

In a forgotten corner of my cellar, I recently discovered a bottle of 2013 of Aria di Caiarossa lying next to a bottle of its big brother, 2013 Caiarossa. Owned and managed by the same team that owns the famous Margaux Grand Cru Classé Château Giscours in the Margaux appellation of the Médoc, Caiarossa is a unique “Super Tuscan” that includes Rhône varieties and Alicante in addition to the more traditional Bordeaux grapes. Here was a great opportunity to see how Caiarossa, the 1st wine, and Aria de Caiarossa, the 2nd wine, had evolved over a decade.

The graceful 2013 Aria di Caiarossa, an IGT Toscana blended from Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, has evolved extremely well into a finesse-filled beauty. Weighing in at a modest 13.5 percent stated alcohol, it now wows you with a Bordeaux-like complexity, poise, and elegance. Mild tannins lend needed support while Tuscan acidity keeps it fresh and delightful to drink. Its graceful and suave texture can remind us why we age wines. By contrast, the more youthful 2013 Caiarossa, also an IGT Toscana, is bolder (14.0 percent stated alcohol) with a tarry minerality, perhaps in part because of the addition of Sangiovese, Alicante, and Petit Verdot to the blend. Still a pleasure to drink, its youthful vigor and tannins just gave it a more robust profile. To my taste, the Aria is at a perfect stage, whereas the Caiarossa, the 1st wine, unsurprisingly, still needs another five to 10 years to mellow.

Alessandro Lunardi, the U.S. representative for Ornellaia, explains that all their vineyards are farmed with the same attention to detail, with the potential for any of the grapes to go into the first wine. It’s only after tasting the wines from the 100+ separate plots that the team decides which ones will go into Ornellaia and which go into Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia, their second wine. Lunardi points out that sometimes even grapes from young vines wind up in Ornellaia. Le Serre Nuove is typically Merlot-dominant in contrast to the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant Ornellaia, which helps explain why it is more approachable when young. The fleshy and accessible 2021 Le Serra Nuove dell’Ornellaia combines alluring savory and mineral notes, all wrapped in suave tannins. It’s a joy to drink now (93 pts., $75). In contrast, the far more youthful, though chronologically older, 2020 Ornellaia, a spectacularly beautiful and balanced young wine, needs at least a decade for its true grandeur and complexity to show (96 pts., $250). For what it delivers, Le Serra Nuove dell’Ornellaia is a bargain, especially compared to Ornellaia.

Marcel Ducasse, the brilliant winemaker and general manager that Suntory hired when they purchased Château Lagrange, a Third Classified Growth in the 1855 Médoc Classification in 1983, once told me that the fastest way to improve the quality of a wine was to make a second wine. Which is exactly what he did and why the quality of Château Lagrange soared after Suntory’s purchase. Unusually for a Bordeaux Cru Classé, Château Lagrange actually bottles more second wine than Grand Vin. In addition to elevating Château Lagrange virtually overnight to a place among the leading estates in St. Julien, the creation of the second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, has been a boon for consumers. Take the succulent 2016 Les Fiefs. At seven years of age—and still available in retail shops—its lush, black current-like fruit balanced by fine tannins and enlivening acidity makes it a fine choice for current drinking with a steak (92 pts., $46). By contrast, the monumental 2016 Château Lagrange, one of Lagrange’s best efforts, is a harmonious treasure but needs another decade of cellaring to show its full charms (96 pts., $75). With a more velvety texture—think cashmere versus lambswool—and more complexity, it’s unquestionably the better wine, but for drinking tonight, I’d uncork the ’16 Les Fiefs.

So, my advice is to embrace those “first losers.”

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E-mail me your thoughts about second wines at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein.

September 20, 2023

Oregon: The Latest French Invasion

August 16, 2023 4:35 pm

The French have always played an important role in the American wine industry. Burgundy-born Paul Masson started making wine in California in the late 19th century, followed by Georges de la Tour, founder of Beaulieu Vineyards, in 1900. The second wave started in 1973 when Moët et Chandon established Domaine Chandon in Napa Valley. Other Champagne houses—Taittinger with Domaine Carneros and Champagne Mumm’s Mumm Cuvée Napa—soon followed. To me, however, the Burgundy-based Drouhin family started the most fascinating wave when they established Domaine Drouhin Oregon in 1987. Over the succeeding 35 years other Burgundy producers, notably Louis Jadot and Méo-Camuzet, have spread the Burgundian concept of terroir to Oregon’s Willamette Valley and the results have been nothing short of sensational.

Véronique Drouhin (the fourth generation of the family who oversees winemaking at Domaine Drouhin Oregon), Guillaume Large (the winemaker at Jadot’s project, Résonance) and Jean-Nicolas Méo, who is in charge at Nicolas-Jay, all agree that they are not trying to make Burgundy in Oregon. Instead, they seek to express the unique Oregon terroir through the great Burgundian grapes Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. When Méo hosted a tasting of his Méo-Camuzet Burgundies side by side with Nicolas-Jay Oregon Pinot Noir in Boston recently, the differences were striking. Wines from both continents were stunning, though vastly different, reinforcing the concept that Oregon Pinot Noirs, even when made by Burgundian winemakers, are not Burgundies—nor do the winemakers want them to be.

The story starts with Robert Drouhin, the third generation of the family, who has a habit of being a visionary when it comes to finding prime vineyards. In the 1960s, he engaged in what many of his Côte d’Or counterparts felt was “folly,” but which has turned out to be a spectacular decision, when he purchased vineyards in Chablis, revitalizing the appellation and, with their 95 acres, making Drouhin the most important Beaune-based producer there. He did it again when he founded Domaine Drouhin Oregon in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley in 1987. To their 125 acres of vines in the Dundee Hills American Viticultural Area (AVA), Drouhin went on to add another 125 acres in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA in 2013. Both the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from these two AVAs and made by the same winemaking team are wonderfully different, reminding us that Burgundy does not have a monopoly on distinctive terroirs.

As though to emphasize the differences between the wines (and terroir), Drouhin opted to label the wines from the Eola-Amity property, Drouhin Oregon Roserock, not Domaine Drouhin Oregon. The differences shine when comparing the mineral-y and firm 2020 Drouhin Oregon Roserock, Eola-Amity Hills Chardonnay “Maigold” ($80, 94 pts.) with the creamy and suave 2020 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Dundee Hills, Chardonnay “Édition Limitée,” 2020 ($80, 94 pts.). The differences imparted by site are equally dramatic when comparing Pinot Noirs, even taking vintage and cuvée differences into account. The charming and finesse-filled 2019 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($47, 92 pts.) delicately marries red fruit and savory nuances and contrasts vividly with the glossy and more structured 2021 Drouhin Oregon Roserock, Eola-Hills, Pinot Noir “Zepherine” bottling (their top cuvée; $66, 95 pts.) with its black fruit and distinct dark mineral profile.

Though Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noirs develop beautifully, gracefully morphing from the fresh red fruit notes of youth to the alluring mushroom-like savory flavors of maturity, they maintain their New World identity, at least to an experienced taster. When I served a 1989 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir blind a couple of years ago—a 30-year-old wine—to a group of Burgundians, all marveled at its development and charm. Anne Parent of Domaine Parent in Pommard, one of the Burgundy’s most talented winemakers, immediately identified a hint of sweetness in the finish that alerted her to its non-Burgundian origins.

Louis Jadot gingerly put a toe into the Oregon water, so to speak, in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA in 2013 when they purchased Resonance Vineyard, a never-irrigated 20-acre vineyard that had been planted with un-grafted Pinot Noir vines about 30 years earlier, in 1981. (They have a dedicated tractor for this vineyard, so they do not inadvertently bring diseases into it.) Initially they rented space in a winery because as Pierre-Henry Gagey, the recently retired longtime President of Louis Jadot who orchestrated the project, told me that they wanted to make sure the experiment would work before they built their own winery.

Well, it clearly has. A decade later, they’re all in. Jadot has since added 60 more acres of Pinot Noir vines on the Yamhill Charlton site, with the potential to add more, and built a gravity flow, state-of-the-art winery there. They added a gorgeous, seamlessly connected tasting room, meeting area, and private dining area all made from reclaimed local barnwood on the property. They next purchased another 15-acre vineyard, Découverte, in 2014 in the Dundee Hills AVA and are building a small tasting room there. Just last year, Jadot again expanded by purchasing the Koosah Vineyard, an 82-acre site, 44 of which are planted, in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. Currently, they produce wines from two AVAs, Yamhill-Charlton’s Résonance Vineyard, and Dundee Hills’ Découverte Vineyard, and anticipate producing wine from Koosah Vineyard soon.

After tasting three vintages (2018, 2019, and 2021) of the Résonance vineyard and Découverte Vineyard Pinot Noirs with Large, the differences between the Yamhill-Carlton and Dundee Hills AVA stood in clear relief, vintage after vintage. The Résonance Pinot Noir from Yamhill-Carlton was always denser, more mineral-y with a more structured frame compared to the more elegant and lacier Découverte Pinot Noir from Dundee Hills. While all six of these wines are balanced and graceful, a stand-out is the striking 2019 Résonance Vineyard, which magically combines power and elegance ($65, 95 pts.) and is a bargain for what it delivers. But frankly, I’d be happy drinking any of them tonight.

Though Jadot is clearly focused on the distinctiveness of the different Willamette Valley AVAs, they also make a Willamette Valley blend under the Résonance label (without the Résonance Vineyard designation) with fruit coming from the Résonance and Découverte Vineyards that they find unsuitable for bottling under the vineyard name, the Jolis Monts Vineyard, which are newer plantings nearby the Résonance Vineyard, and from purchased fruit. The stylish and fresh 2021 Résonance Willamette Valley blend ($35, 92 pts.), in my opinion, the best one they’ve produced to date, is a mini version of the 2021 Résonance Vineyard bottling and manages to combine dark fruited depth with finesse. It’s rare to find a Pinot Noir of this stature at $35.

Focusing on terroir and perhaps drawing on his experience running the small négociant business that he recently added to his Burgundy portfolio, Jean-Nicolas Méo took a different approach. As Tracy Kendall explained (she’s Associate Winemaker at Nicolas-Jay and the on-site full-time winemaker), Méo and music executive Jay Boberg, wanted to spend money on the vineyards, not make a castle or a shrine. Méo wanted to learn about the various terroirs, so when they started in 2014, the partners purchased grapes from various well-regarded vineyards to learn the lay of land. As for the winemaking, they rented space at Adelsheim for three years, and then rented space for another three years at Sokol Blosser.

By 2017, they were convinced of the potential for excellent Pinot Noir from the Willamette, so they started looking to build a winery. Finally, they found an old cattle barn in the Dundee Hills that had the skeletal potential for a gravity flow building. Along with it came a north-facing slope for a vineyard whose exposure would minimize the effects of climate change and produce less ripe grapes that would translate into lower alcohol wines. They transformed the barn into a modern winery just in time for the 2020 harvest, which they opted not to make because of lamentable smoke taint from wildfires. Kendall’s eyes beamed and she became even more animated when she described how it felt to finally make wines, the 2021s, in their own place.

Méo’s model worked brilliantly. The partners fell in love with the wines from the Bishop Creek Vineyard in the Yamhill Charlton AVA and eventually bought the vineyard, which sits at a 450-foot elevation and has own-rooted (not grafted) vines that were planted in 1988. Wine from Bishop Creek, either bottled as a single vineyard or included in a blend, now accounts for half of their production. Nicolas-Jay buys from seven other vineyards and has four single vineyard bottlings currently. Their Willamette Valley blend, Ensemble, contains fruit from every AVA within the Willamette Valley except Chehalem Mountains and Ribbon Ridge. The suavely textured 2019 Ensemble ($77, 92 pts.) is a stunning expression of the potential of what the Willamette has to offer. All of Nicolas-Jay’s wines come from organically or biodynamically farmed vineyards, even though they may not be certified as such, and are fermented using native yeast.

The superb Nicolas-Jay 2019 Pinot Noirs reflect the diversity of the Willamette’s AVAs. The charming Nysa (Dundee Hills AVA) bottling ($114, 95 pts.) displays a captivating finesse and elegance, while the powerful 2019 Momtazi (McMinnville AVA) bottling ($109, 95 pts.) with its dense, black, mountain fruit tension is just what you’d expect from the area’s rugged wind-blown volcanic soil. What’s unexpected is a meagre 13.2 percent stated alcohol and its marvelous balance. The youthful and brooding 2019 Bishop Creek (Yamhill Charlton) ($110; 96 pts.), combining power and finesse, is truly an iron fist in a velvet glove.

The splendid array of Nicolas-Jay’s 2019s Pinot Noirs is simply staggering. It’s hard to imagine a leap in quality from this vintage for them, but I predict there will be one with the 2021s vinified in their own cellar.

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Email me your thoughts about Oregon Pinot Noir in general at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter @MichaelApstein

August 16, 2023

The Wines of Laudun: Under the Radar Now, but Not for Long

July 12, 2023 5:16 pm

The French wine authorities, Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), are notoriously rigid and immoveable. However, they are poised to change the pecking order in the Rhône, putting the wines from Laudun on a level, administratively, at least, with Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas. The INAO moves slowly since they are responsible for food, wine, agriculture in general, and forestry. Frustrated wine growers in Pommard and Nuits St. Georges have been petitioning the INAO for decades to have a vineyard in each of those villages elevated to Grand Cru status. No luck yet. It took the growers in Pouilly-Fuissé well over a decade to get the INAO to recognize Premier Cru vineyards in that appellation. Despite a decade-plus of lobbying, growers in Marsannay haven’t had the same success as those in Pouilly-Fuissé in attaining official recognition of their best sites. Yet, in the Rhône the INAO is seemingly always re-arranging the hierarchy of the Rhône quality pyramid, adding villages to the Côte du Rhone-Villages category, and promoting others from that category to cru status. That’s where Laudun comes in.

Why should consumers be concerned with France’s Byzantine classification system? (You’re about to see in the next paragraph how complicated it is, too!) Because the prices of wines from villages that get promoted will take a decade to catch up to their quality. Just look to Gigondas, which was promoted to cru status from Côtes du Rhône Villages Gigondas in 1971. As late as the mid-1980s, you could find a top Gigondas for about $10. Now they’re closer to $60, a hefty increase even accounting for inflation. So, if you want high-quality Rhône wines at good prices, look at those villages whose distinctiveness has recently been, or is about to be, codified. Since the village of Laudun is now poised to be promoted to cru status, that’s a name to learn and remember.

There are four levels to the Rhône quality pyramid. As you ascend, the regulations for wine making become stricter and the allowable yields lower to achieve higher quality wine. At the base sits the vast Côtes du Rhône appellation, encompassing just under half of the Rhône’s entire output. A step up sits Côtes du Rhone Villages, a group of 73 villages who have the potential to make more distinctive wine, but not so distinctive that they can put their village name itself on the label.

Sitting above Côtes du Rhône-Villages are 22, as of last count, villages whose wines are distinctive enough to allow them to sport the name of the village on the label. They are known as Côtes du Rhône Village with a geographical name. The village of Nyons, which also has an AOC for olives, was the last village to be promoted to this category in 2022. So, soon, consumers will see appellation Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun, instead of the just the appellation Côtes du Rhône Villages, on the label. Together, all the Côtes du Rhône Villages, with or without a specific name, account for about 11% of the Rhône’s total production.

At the top of the pyramid, and accounting for about 15% of the Rhone’s total production, sit the top AOCs of the Rhône, the crus: eight in the northern Rhône (Château Grillet, Condrieu, Cornas, Côte Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, St. Joseph, and St. Péray) and nine in the south: (Beaumes-de-Venise, Cairanne, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Lirac, Rasteau, Tavel, Vacqueryas, and Vinsobres). Cairanne was the last to make the jump from Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne to cru status (2016). In general, the prices of wines from Cairanne have still not yet risen to reflect their quality. Laudun is on track to make the jump to cru status in 2024. If the pattern of price increases for the wines of Cairanne, Gigondas, and Vacqueryas is any judge, I predict it will take another decade for the prices of the wines from Laudun to reflect their quality.

Laudun, a village on the west bank of Rhône River, will join Tavel and Lirac as the only crus on that side of the river. Wines from the cru on the west (right) bank of the Rhône are generally lighter, less muscular, and more finesse-filled compared to those of the east (left) bank. Matt Walls, a Rhône wine authority, attributes the differences, in part, to sandier soil containing more patches of limestone with fewer of the heat-reflecting galets, emblematic of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Additionally, Walls reminds us of the importance of exposure: east facing vineyards, such as those of the west bank, see the less intense morning sun and are protected from the hotter afternoon sun, resulting in less-ripe grapes with greater acidity.

Laudun has a long history of making distinctive wines. The Romans cultivated vines here two millennia ago. It was included in the initial Côte du Rhône classification in 1937 and was one of the first to be promoted to Côtes du Rhone Villages status in 1953 along with Cairanne, Chusclan, and Gigondas. It gained the Côtes du Rhone Villages Laudun moniker in 1967. Laudun is unique in having a tradition of making fine white wine. When Louis XIII visited the area in 1629, he was presented with a barrel of Laudun white. Even today, 28% of Laudun’s production is white, compared to only about 10% for the Rhône in general. Laudun’s production is relatively small, only about 2.2 million bottles annually from 18 private estates, 6 co-operatives, and a handful of Rhône-based négociants, which means it can take some effort to find them. Believe me, it’s worth it.

The composition of the blend for both Laudun reds and whites will change when it is elevated to cru status. Currently, in the case of the reds, two of the principal varieties, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah, must be included in, and comprise 60% of, the blend. To increase complexity and quality, cru regulations will require all three of the principal red varieties to be included. Currently for whites, three of the principal varieties—Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier—must be included in, and comprise 50% of, the blend. Cru regulations will require the use of at least four principal white varieties. Rosé will be prohibited by cru regulations.

Importantly, the hierarchy displayed in the Rhône pyramid reflects distinctiveness and potential for grandeur. The levels do not necessarily reflect quality. Some producers over-achieve with their Côtes du Rhône, surpassing less talented growers’ Côtes du Rhône Villages wines. So, don’t be a slave to the appellation pyramid. Remember my cardinal rule: Producer, producer, producer.

Here are a few reds and whites Laudun from three producers that I recommend enthusiastically:

Château Courac, with their 250 acres producing 150,000 bottles of red Laudun and 30,000 bottles of white, is one of the largest producers in the appellation. They are also one of the best. Floral but not flamboyant, their fresh and finesse-filled 2021 Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun Blanc delights the palate with subtle peachy and nutty nuances offset by winsome white peppery notes. Uplifting acidity in the finish amplifies its considerable appeal. Clairette planted on sand over clay and comprising 80% of the blend—the remainder is Grenache Blanc—likely helps explains the wine’s finesse (93 pts.; $15).

Domaine Pélaquié’s lively and vibrant 2021 Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun Blanc is more evidence of the quality of whites coming from this appellation. Pélaquié, another of the region’s top producers, imbues this white with richness, minerality, and a seductive touch of tropical fruit but skillfully avoids even a hint of heaviness. Spice and a hint of appealing bitterness in the finish add complexity and balance (92 pts.; $15).

With its alluring combination of black fruit and savory elements, Château Courac’s stunning 2020 Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun Rouge 2020 will make you a fan of the appellation’s red wines. It has a bit of everything—hints of tar, gorgeous spice, and minerals—without being boisterous or heavy. A suave texture and a fresh finish leave a lasting impression (93 pts.; $13 for the 2018).

Domaine Pélaquié’s refined mid-weight red 2019 Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun is as impressive as their white. Subtle spice and herbal notes complement the dark cherry-like fruit in this finesse-filled charmer. Though, thankfully, not an overwrought powerhouse, this elegant red makes a powerful presence. You’d never guess it weighs in a 14.5% stated alcohol because there’s not a trace of heaviness or heat. It’s perfect for this year’s grilling season (92 pts.; $14).

Maison Sinnae, the largest producer in the AOC, is a label from the very fine cooperative, Laudun Chusclan Vignerons. Founded in 1925, it now has about 250 members and controls a staggering 7,000 acres. They produce a fine array of Côtes du Rhône Laudun wines, both red and white. Take, for example, their vibrant 2022 white Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun, “Éléments” Luna. It delivers enormous pleasure for the price. An alluring and subtle bitterness in the finish offsets its initial pleasant bite and then amplifies the zingy peachy notes. This energetic white makes a fine choice as a stand-alone aperitif or a match for spicy Asian fare (91 pts.; $15). Similarly, their racy 2021 white Laudun, “Excellence,” with hints of white flowers, delicate stone fruit notes, and lively acidity, delivers more than you’d expect at the price. A hint of bitter almonds in the finish reminds you this is not a heavy fruity wine (92 pts. $15). The sophisticated 2020 “Villa Sinnae,” with its heavier bottle and wax covered cork, is Maison Sinnae’s top Laudun white. It manages to be plusher and slighter riper without losing any finesse or elegance. It delivers, what for me is the telltale sign of refinement, a hint of bitterness in the finish as though to emphasize it’s not just about the fruit (93 pts., $20).

Maison Sinnae also excels with their red Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun. The bright and juicy 2021 “Les Dolia” delivers black and red fruits accented by black peppery spice. It takes a chill nicely because the tannins are refined, hardly noticeable, yet still provide needed structure. Try it in place of a rosé this summer (92 pts.; $15). A step up in power and structure is their flagship Laudun, “Villa Cesar.” The muscular 2021 still has a patina of sweet oak and some wood tannins, so I wouldn’t chill this one. I’d instead open this robust and balanced bottling a couple of hours before the garlic-laden lamb comes off the grill (91 pts.; $20).

I am grateful to Matt Walls who led a fabulous masterclass on the wines of Laudun earlier this year in Avignon. Much of the technical information about Laudun in this article came from his class and his excellent book, Wines of the Rhône (The Classic Wine Library, 2021).

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E-mail me your thoughts about Rhône wines in general or those from Laudun in particular, at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein.

July 12, 2023

A Greek White Instead of Rosé

June 14, 2023 8:01 pm

Memorial Day means summer, which, of course to some people means rosé. But for me it means light to mid-weight white wines with energy, verve, and most of all, character. There are lots of French whites that fit that category, from zippy Muscadet to flinty village Chablis, to simple Bourgogne Blanc, to racy Sancerre. German and Australian Riesling with their bracing acidity are all good choices for summer sipping. From Gavi in Piedmont to Carricante in Sicily, Italy has too many refreshing whites to name. I was just introduced to another one, previously unknown to me. It’s embarrassing since its home is less than an hour from a major metropolis where I’ve vacationed twice with my family recently. I overlooked Savatiano because I was focused on other major Greek wines when we were in Athens. In a sense, that’s a great problem for Greece to have—too many intriguing wines to explore. I was recently introduced to the grape and its wines at an illuminating seminar held in New York City that was organized by the Wine of Attica (a.k.a. Attiki) and led by Levi Dalton, former sommelier and now host and producer of the outstanding podcast, I’ll Drink to That, and Sofia Perpera, an enologist and chemist with the Greek Wine Federation.

Since I was unfamiliar with Attica or Attiki, as the Greeks know it, I suspect many of you readers are too, so let me start with some background. Attica, with its roughly 15,000 acres of vines, is one of Greece’s PGIs (Protected Geographical Indication, akin to an appellation) that is literally a stone’s throw from Athens. Indeed, the construction of the Athens airport in the late 1990s resulted in the loss of many acres of vineyards. A small sliver of the appellation crosses the water and lies on the coast of the Peloponnese. The white Savatiano grape is the star in Attica, comprising 90 percent of the plantings. In reality, the wines of Attica, analogous to Frascati from the Castelli Romani surrounding Rome, are the wines of Athens. And like Frascati, top growers are now transforming Savatiano into high-quality wines.

Vines have been planted in Attica and wine made from them for millennia. The traditional wine from this region was, and in large measure, still is Retsina, a wine to which pine resin is added during fermentation. Restoration of vineyards after phylloxera, which arrived in Greece later than in France, started only in the 1960s with bush vine plantings, which allowed the vines to retain more moisture in this very hot and dry region. Attica’s modern wine history starts only in the 1990s. Retsina still plays a major role in the industry and young producers are fine-tuning it, trying to make the wine more appealing to the general public.

Savatiano is well suited to Attica, the hottest and driest part of Greece, because it is resistant to drought and fungal diseases. Mountains protect the vineyards against cold north winds during months when they pose potential problems. There’s plenty of sunshine. The poor fertility of the clay limestone soil is ideal for grapes. Organic viticulture is easier here—and producers are embracing it—because of the dry climate and breezes from the sea. Though as Dalton points out, growers sometimes feel like it’s “easier to do organic farming than the organic paperwork.” The grape is prolific and, according to Perpera, growers need to limit yields to produce high-quality wines.

With upwards of 7,000 growers and with the average holding just over 2-acres, Attica has a family-oriented production philosophy rather than a large-scale corporate imprint. Since the vineyards tend to stay within families for generation, it is easy to understand why 80 percent of the vines are more than 30 years old.

As with the resurrection of an any area by younger growers, experimentation is bound to occur. Some growers use stainless steel for fermentation and aging, while others are experimenting with barrels of oak or acacia for those tasks. Some growers are making orange-like wine by fermenting the juice with the skins. Whether to stir lees is another individual choice. Then, of course, comes the question of when to drink the wines—when they are young and vibrant, or with a little bottle age which typically smooths the edges.

For consumers the stylistic diversity is a double-edged sword. The variety means there’s something for everybody. No cookie-cutter wines here! The downside, of course, is the inability to know exactly what’s in the bottle from reading the label. Varietal labeling, that is, the grape name, Savatiano, clearly on the label as opposed to yet another geographic name, makes things easier. That’s not to say that geography is irrelevant. Indeed, it is important because there are subzones within Attica with their own PGI that tend to produce more distinctive wines. Thankfully, even wines labeled with just a subzone PGI, such as Slopes of Kitherona or Markopoulo, will still carry Savatiano on the label. A careful search will usually reveal the word Attica or Wine of Athens somewhere on either the front or back label.

Retsina, which is another PGI, will always carry that name on the label. A traditional wine of Attica, Retsina got its name from a pine resin covering of the amphora in which the wine was stored. The resin flavored the wine leading to the name Retsina. Perpera explains that there are two kinds of Retsina, “good and not so good. The flabby, oxidized style gave it a bad image.” Now, producers make Retsina by judiciously adding tea bag-like packets of pine resin to the fermenting wine.

You may read that Savatiano is a low acid grape. That may be. The wines, however, are by no means low-acid. Quite the opposite, which is what makes me so enthusiastic about them. (I’ll let others explain how a winemaker makes a verve-filled wine from a low-acid grape.)

Savatiano remains a niche category. The wines certainly have not made it into the mainstream. Some of my recommendations below are not yet imported (indicated by NYI) and even those that are do not have widespread distribution, so expect to search for them. Even Flatiron Wines & Spirits, a top retail shop in New York, had none on its racks. So why write about them? Because it’s a distinctive category that is likely to enter the mainstream soon.

These three fresh and lively examples below show the pleasure of drinking Savatiano young. They were all fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks to preserve their freshness. As a group, they combine bracing acidity with the stone fruit character of the white wines from the southern Rhône.

Weighing in at a mere 12.8 percent alcohol, Anastasia Fragou’s zesty 2022 Savatiano (PGI Attiki) delivers a hint of stone fruitiness buttressed by invigorating saline acidity. At the price, it’s a steal (90 pts; $11, imported by Fantis Foods). Lively freshness balances Markou Vineyards’ rounder and peachy 2021 Savatiano (PGI Attiki). Despite a 12.5 percent stated alcohol this organic delight has excellent concentration (90 pts, $17, imported by Athenee Importers). Gikas Winery’s edgy 2021 Savatiano, labeled San Tovato, (PGI Slopes of Kitharona) combines subtle peach-like nuances with distinct mineral notes. Great length and bracing acidity amplify its charms. Its stature is likely due, in part, to the location of the vineyards, roughly 2,000 feet above sea level (92 pts, NYI).

Both the 2019 single vineyard bottling, Vientzi, from Domaine Papagiannakos (PGI Markopoulo), and Mylonas Winery’s 2017 Cuvee Vouno (PGI Attiki) show the virtue of aging Savatiano for a few years. Papagiannakos’ mineral infused and lively Vientzi packs plenty of character into its 12.5 percent stated alcohol frame without losing any of its energy (93 pts; $33). Mylonas’ Cuvee Vouno has developed a captivating richness to accompany its peach-like nuances and uplifting saline acidity (91 pts; $18; imported by Diamond Wine Importers).

You trade freshness and verve for a subtle creaminess in Savatiano renditions that are fermented or aged in oak or acacia barrels instead of stainless-steel tanks. The risk, of course, is winding up with overly woody wines. That is clearly not a problem with the balanced 2018 Kokotos Savatiano (PGI Attiki), which is more evidence that Savatiano can evolve with bottle age. Kokotos has managed to capture a peach cream quality that retains plenty of energy (92 pts, NYI).

I have never been charmed by Retsina as a category finding the wines too flamboyant with a Bengay® or Tiger Balm® character. A knowledgeable waiter at a Greek restaurant in New York City recently described Retsina to me as, “drinking a Christmas tree.” The same waiter suggested I try Anastasia Fragou’s Old Vines Retsina (PGI Retsina, 88 pts, $13, imported by Fantis Foods). Both it and Papagiannis’s Retsina of Attiki (89 pts., NYI) made me reassess my opinion because the resin-y character in these two wines acted as a subtle accent to the stone fruit nuances, not the main player. Although I’m not sure I’d want to drink it throughout a meal, I can see it as an enticing aperitif.

Not surprisingly, the depth and vibrancy of these Savatiano wines make them perfect matches for whatever comes from the sea, and yes, even roast lamb. See my article on white wine with meat: http://winereviewonline.com/Michael_Apstein_White_with_Meat.cfm. So, instead of rosé, I suggest you give Savatiano a try this summer.

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E-mail me your thoughts about Greek wines in general or the wine of Attica in specific at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein

June 14, 2023

Bordeaux’s Domaine de Chevalier and Its Outstanding White Wine

June 2, 2023 7:19 pm

Bordeaux‘s image and reputation comes from its red wines, which, after all, account for about ninety percent of its production. Rating the overall quality of the vintage is always based on how the red wines fared, without regard to the whites. The famed 1855 Classification stratified only the reds and, except for Haut-Brion, only those from the Médoc where white wine was, and is still, rare. It took another 100 hundred years, in 1959, for the authorities to classify dry whites. But I’m here to tell you that Bordeaux, specifically Pessac-Léognan and more specifically, Domaine de Chevalier, produces spectacularly complex and age-worthy white wines. And sells them at reasonable prices considering their quality.

A recent tasting spanning four decades of both colors of Domaine de Chevalier reminded me of just how special and consistent the wines from the Domaine have been since it was acquired by the Bernard family, headed up by the ever-smiling Olivier and his son Hugo. Panos Kakaviatos, a Bordeaux expert, organized a tasting and dinner in May of this year at the 1789 Restaurant in Washington D.C. At that tasting, the oldest wine was a 1983 white, not a red, from the year the Bernard family purchased the property. Kakaviatos had arranged a similar tasting dinner at the French Embassy in Washington in 2020, just before Covid descended, presided over by Olivier Bernard. All the wines at both tastings came from the Domaine. Those two tastings confirm my enthusiasm for the Domaine’s wines. This report will focus on their exceptional whites. I’ll report on Domaine de Chevalier’s reds at a future time.

Domaine de Chevalier lies just south of the city of Bordeaux itself, in Pessac-Léognan, which was a part of the Graves appellation until 1987 when it received its own AOC. The soils of Pessac-Léognan are diverse, which accounts for both the stellar red and white wines coming from the appellation. The Cru Classé de Graves classification of 1959 ranked fourteen estates, all located in Pessac-Léognan, for white, red or both. Domaine de Chevalier is one of only six estates that is classified as Crus Classé for both red and white wine. (For completeness, the other five are Carbonnieux, Malartic-Lagravière, Latour-Martillac, Bouscaut, and Olivier).

Of the Domaine’s roughly fifty hectares of vines, six are devoted to whites, up from three ha when the family purchased the property. Sauvignon Blanc comprises seventy percent of the plantings with Semillon accounting for the remainder. Bernard dedicates the cooler soils and sites to the white plantings to capture acidity, which will enhance freshness in the wines. He explains that heat and dryness during the summer will harm the white varieties more than the red ones, so it’s important to keep the white varieties cool. The planting is dense, 10,000 vines/ha, which many believe increases the complexity of the wine, is unusual in Pessac-Léognan. Farming is done organically or biodynamically. Olivier explains that unlike red wine, he can make excellent white wine from younger, that is, 15-year-old vines. The composition of the blend of Domaine de Chevalier’s white typically follows the plantings, that is two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc and one-third Semillon.

The Domaine occupies a cooler site in Pessac-Léognan, abutting a forest, which Olivier says has been a Godsend with climate change and keeps the wines fresh. And, as the tasting notes will show, the whites display extraordinary development while maintaining freshness with extended bottle age.

Domaine de Chevalier produces only about 18,000 bottles of white annually, compared to about 100,000 bottles of red. A second wine, L’Espirit de Chevalier, made from young vines, comprises anywhere from 40 to 60% of the production depending on the vintage and the age of replanted vines. It represents a superb value.

“We are looking for freshness in the whites,” explains Bernard, which is why the blend is weighted towards Sauvignon Blanc with its acidity and structure. Bernard points that Sauvignon Blanc has 20 percent more acidity than Semillon at harvest. The Semillon adds body and creaminess. He continues that with climate change and riper Sauvignon Blanc, they need and are using less Semillon.

Bernard’s passion for white wine is evident, proclaiming with a broad smile and enthusiasm, “I like whites. They are another world. The world of red is in the soil. The world of white is in the heaven. There is something ethereal in the whites. They are airy.”

Though they use optical sorting at the winery for the reds, Bernard says they can easily spot defective white grapes visually. The key, according to Bernard and perhaps drawing on his experience with Sauternes—he is a part-owner of the famous classified Sauternes estate, Château Guiraud—is making successive passes though the vineyard, harvesting only the perfectly ripe grapes. He estimates that the maturation of their 50,000 bunches, though planted together, can vary by two weeks, so they will go through the vineyard up to five times over the two to three weeks of harvest. Bernard estimates they spend two to four times as long harvesting whites as compared to reds—2000 to 4000 hours per ha versus 1000 hours per ha. Bernard adds that the subtleties are more apparent in whites, which means they must be more compulsive about the harvest of the white grapes. He continues by emphasizing that the focus of the whites should be on the delicacy of the fruit flavors, not the structured tannins, which again mandates a more selective harvesting. There is no skin contact during fermentation for the whites. They are vinified with only the juice and pulp using natural yeast and undergo no malolactic transformation. Fermentation takes place in small oak barrels, roughly one-third of which are new, followed by aging on the lees for up to eighteen months. Though the 1980 white, made before the Bernard family owned the Domaine, was chaptalized, there is no need for chaptalization today, with the average potential alcohol going from 12 to 14 percent over the last thirty years thanks to climate change.

Let me make some generalizations about the white wines before diving into the individual tasting notes. Closed when young, they need bottle age, and then even some air to let them unfold. They have an almost unbelievable ability to develop enormous complexity with decades of bottle age. The 1983 and 1989 tasted this year and the 1980 and 1990 tasted in 2020 were both otherworldly. Apart from the great white Burgundies, it’s hard to find dry white wines that have developed this kind of complexity and captivating allure while remaining fresh and lively at thirty or forty years of age.

photo by Michael Apstein

The wines in this tasting

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2017 Pessac-Léognan 95

Still youthful even at six years of age, this racy wine initially displays the bite of Sauvignon Blanc and oak influence. But, after 30 minutes in the glass all the elements coalesce in a beautiful harmony of citrus-infused creaminess. The lesson is don’t rush these white wines. Give them time. The 2017 growing season presented problem after problem to winemakers. The earlier harvest for the whites, compared to the reds, occurring in the first half of September, minimized the chance for crop-destroying autumn rains and perhaps explains, in part, why Domaine de Chevalier’s whites excel in what the French euphemistically call “difficult” vintages. This one certainly does. Drinking window: 2023-2047.

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2010 Pessac-Léognan 97

There’s no need to give this spectacular wine time in the glass. Its glories are immediately apparent with captivating aromatics. Displaying a great presence, it seduces you with elegance and charm, not power. A firm steeliness offsets a hint of round, nutty richness. Even the empty glass smells great! Drinking window: 2023 – 2035.

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2001 Pessac-Léognan 95

Clearly mature, but not old, it maintains a wonderful freshness that balances a subtle nutty character. Apricot undertones are reminiscent of a botrytis-infected Sauternes, but the wine is not sweet at all. An engaging tension between a citrus finish and dry apricots keeps your attention throughout the meal. Very lively, it also grows in the glass. Drinking window: 2023 – 2030.

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2000 Pessac-Léognan 92

(tasted in 2020): Though the 2000 vintage for reds was widely acclaimed, the whites did not fare so well, which makes the stature of this wine even more astounding. Still with a subtle and surprising youthful edginess, it combines a delicate peachiness with an invigorating citrus finish. Balanced and long, it’s more evidence that Domaine de Chevalier makes excellent white wines in “difficult” years. Drinking window: 2023-2030.

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 1993 Pessac-Léognan 90

(from magnum): Despite the larger format, the 1993 seemed more tired and less elegant than even older vintages. The same appealing combination of citrus freshness and dry apricots expanded in the glass. Still, it lacked the expressiveness of the 2001. That said, if consumed by itself and not next to grander vintages, it would garner applause. Drinking window: 2023 (drink up).

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 1990 Pessac-Léognan 95

(tasted in 2020): With its riper peach-like and nutty nuances, the still charming 1990 reflects the heat of that vintage. Nonetheless, this generous wine retains enlivening citrus freshness and a firming minerality. Drinking window: 2023 (drink up).

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 1989 Pessac-Léognan 97

Another spectacular example of how these white wines develop, the gorgeous 1989 exhibits a captivating array of herbal notes intertwined with a hint of tropical and stone fruit ones. Despite the plethora of sensations emanating from the glass, the wine is not flamboyant, but rather suave and seductive. A lemon cream acidity keeps it fresh and lively even at 30+ years of age. It also passes the empty glass test with flying colors. Drinking window: 2023-2040, and possibly longer.

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 1983 Pessac-Léognan 96

Olivier Bernard’s first wine, the gorgeous 1983 at 40 years of age is still fresh, balanced and a joy to drink. Great aromatics draw you into a panoply of flavors: creamy citrus, hints of dried apricots, and a touch of nuttiness. This sublime wine also passes the empty glass test! Note the Graves appellation on the label because Pessac-Léognan had yet to be established. Drinking window: 2023 (drink up).

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 1980 Pessac-Léognan 94

(tasted in 2020): Bernard described 1980 as a really cold year, which explains why the previous owner, the famous Claude Ricard, chaptalized the wine. You wouldn’t know it from tasting it. The lively 1980 conveys a marvelous and balanced combination of white peach-like nuances, subtle almond-like nuttiness all supported by enlivening citrus acidity. Drinking window: 2023 (drink up).

From Canada’s Quench Magazine – Burgundy: A Look Back at the Last 50 Years and Forward to the Next

May 31, 2023 4:39 pm

[click for pdf]

Tenuta di Capezzana’s Ghiaie della Furba

May 17, 2023 12:43 pm

In 1979, Ugo Conti Bonacossi, owner of Tenuta di Capezzana, the leading estate in Carmignano, created a unique Super Tuscan wine, Ghiaie della Furba (literally, pebbles along the Furba stream). It should come as no surprise that a grower in Carmignano should make a Super Tuscan because, after all, Carmignano, not Bolgheri, was the birthplace of the concept. Catherine de Medici brought Cabernet Franc with her from France when she returned to the area in the 16th century. So, Carmignano has a five-century tradition of using Uva Francesca (a.k.a. Cabernet Franc) in the blend with Sangiovese for their DOCG wines.

What Bonacossi did was still unique. A friend of Eric de Rothschild, Bonacossi wanted to make a Bordeaux blend. He found a site with gravely soil alongside a stream that was ideally suited for Bordeaux varieties. He planted Cabernet Sauvignon in 1968 and made the first Ghiaie, the first Bordeaux blend for the region, about a decade later by blending equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Ironically, given its history in the area, Cabernet Franc was eliminated, replaced by Syrah in 1998 when Benedetta Bonacossi, one of Ugo’s daughters, took over as head winemaker. Ugo, always willing to experiment, had planted, among other varieties, 2.5-acres of Syrah in the mid-1980s. The Bonacossi DNA for experimenting flowed to Benedetta, who examined the effect of incorporating Syrah into Ghiaie della Furba. She did blind tastings with and without Syrah and concluded that Ghiaie with Syrah was a far more expressive and complex wine. She clearly loves Syrah. Her face brightens and her otherwise quiet demeanor becomes animated when she talks about the variety. They’ve subsequently expanded their Syrah plantings to 7.5-acres and the current blend is roughly Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Syrah (35%), and Merlot.

Capezzana dates to at least 804 (you read that correctly), according to a contract written on parchment held in the Florence Archives, indicating that vines and olive trees were grown there. The microclimate of Carmignano, and especially of Capezzana, between the Mediterranean and the Apennines affords good ventilation, adequate rainfall at the right times, warm days, and cool nights, the latter essential for holding onto acidity in the grapes that translates into vibrancy in the wines. The Medici family, who vacationed there to escape Florence’s summertime heat, went on to make the wines of Carmignano the most famous in Tuscany. Though today Carmignano may not carry that distinction, the DOCG remains unique because it requires the incorporation of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, into the blend with Sangiovese. And with only 13 producers, the wines from Carmignano, the smallest DOCG in Tuscany with only about 550 acres of vines, are consistently high-quality.

The Contini Bonacossi family acquired Capezzana in 1924. The estate comprises about 2,100 acres, of which 200 are devoted to vines (125 acres in DOCG Carmignano) and 350 to olive trees. They have used only native yeasts since 2103 because Benedetta believes, “having many strains of yeast is important for aromatic complexity.” The entire property is now certified organic. Ghiaie della Furba, classified as an IGT Toscana, is aged in small oak barrels, a.k.a. barriques, for from 12 to 15 months, depending on vintage.

Now to the wines. Capezzana hosted a vertical tasting of Ghiaie della Furba that included the 1981, 1999, 2006, 2016, and 2019 in Florence in February during the Antiprime di Toscane. In preparation, I tasted the 2015 from my cellar, so I have included notes about that wine as well.

Before delving into specific wines, let me outline my overall impressions:

First and foremost, Ghiaie della Furba is a top Tuscan wine that, like all great wines, takes more than a decade to reveal its true grandeur. Unsurprisingly, the style of the wine changed with the substitution of Syrah for Cabernet Franc, resulting in a more muscular wine with peppery or meaty accents. All the wines, even the 40+ year-old 1981, had great freshness and life. That’s the Tuscan acidity speaking.

The 1981, a classic Bordeaux blend of equal parts, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot, has developed gorgeously, expressing the alluring cedar-like nuances of mature Bordeaux buttressed by racy Tuscan acidity. As it sits in the glass, coffee-like notes emerge. Certainly, mature, but by no means tired. Judging from this wine, Ugo was correct. 95 points.

Even with Syrah comprising only ten percent of the blend of the 1999, its presence in this powerful yet graceful wine is clear. (Cabernet Sauvignon comprised 60% of the blend while Merlot filled out the rest.) The Syrah adds “oomph” and a meaty complexity that becomes apparent with air. Minerals and a delightful hint of tarriness in the finish adds allure. You’d never guess this balanced and complete wine was 20+ years old. The Tuscan acidity keeps it energetic. An entirely different style from the 1981, the suavely muscular 1999 is equally impressive and enjoyable. 96

To my mind, the more tannic 2006, from a year widely acclaimed as a great vintage, still needs a few years to show its splendor. Initially burly, the tannins soften with air, and the black peppery notes of Syrah become a gorgeous accent to the wine’s mineral aspect. The energy of the 2006 is thrilling. Everything here is in balance, which is not surprising since Benedetta emphasizes, “Balance is key from the start.” It’s hard to believe that this Incredibly youthful wine is 15+ years old. For those who are interested, the blend of the 2006 is Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and equal parts Merlot and Syrah. 93

The muscular 2015, with what has become the modern blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Syrah (35%) and Merlot, is tightly wound even at eight years of age. Like the 2006, this youthful beauty reveals its glories slowly as it sits in the glass. Suave and glossy tannins enrobe its tar-like mineral qualities. An intriguing meatiness—the Syrah speaking—emerges with time. Its balance suggests this 2015 has a beautiful future. That said, those who enjoy wines at a more youthful stage of their evolution can enjoy it now if you decant it and savor during a meal. 92

The reduced proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the suave 2016 compared to the 2006, 40% compared to 60%, and the concomitant increase of Syrah to 35% from 20%, may explain the wine’s appealing texture. Black pepper notes add balancing spice to this powerhouse. It carries its 15.4% stated alcohol effortlessly. Fresh and youthful, this muscular wine should develop splendidly over the next decade. Its balance and fine texture allow enjoyment now as long as you’re a fan of youthful, power-packed wines. 94

Powerful and polished, the 2019 is another excellent Ghiaie della Furba. With the same blend as the 2016, Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Syrah (35%) and Merlot, this youthful dynamo displays haunting peppery accents that balance the deep, plum-like black fruit nuances. Finely honed firm tannins add to its appeal and impart balancing structure without astringency. Fresh and lively, it has a graceful and persistent finish. 94

My advice: drink your Ghiaie della Furba wines young, within five years of the vintage, to enjoy the power if your tastes run to muscular meaty reds. Otherwise, find a place in your cellar for these gems and let them develop for a decade or two to allow them to show their nuanced complexity.

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E-mail me your thoughts about Carmignano in general or Capezzana and Ghiaie della Furba in particular or at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein

May 17, 2023

Four Decades of Guigal’s “Classic” Hermitage

April 28, 2023 9:27 pm

E. Guigal’s consistently stunning “classic” Hermitage, as Philippe Guigal refers to it, as distinct from their Ex Voto-bottling, dispels several wine myths. First, it shows that a négociant bottling can be superb. Secondly, and more surprisingly perhaps, is that Guigal buys, get this, wine, not grapes, for much of their 45,000-bottle annual production. Philippe, who, with his father, Marcel, is in charge, explains that they have contacts from growers that date from when his grandfather, Etienne Guigal, worked at Vidal-Fleury. When Etienne left Vidal-Fleury to start E. Guigal in 1946, many growers followed him. Fred Ek, Guigal’s long-time U.S. broker and importer, told me, “They know where and what to buy and are willing to pay for it.” Philippe adds with a smile, “We recognize quality. It is normal that quality costs more, so we pay more, and we pay very quickly, which is a big difference.”

Philippe explains that while today the house does buy more grapes for their classic Hermitage than they once did, they still do buy some wine. When they buy wine, Philippe adds, they prefer to do it as soon as possible after the alcoholic fermentation, sometimes even before the malolactic fermentation has been completed. Ideally, they would like the wine to be vinified in Hermitage, racked, and then moved to their main winery in Ampuis for élevage.

Importantly, now that they own vineyards in Hermitage, wine that they feel is not up to their high standards for Ex Voto will go into the classic bottling. In 2001, Guigal acquired vineyards on the Hermitage hill when they acquired two firms, Jean-Louis Grippat and de Vallouit, within four months of each other. Guigal’s Ex Voto Ermitage comes from four parcels, with different soils, comprising 2.2 ha scattered over the hill. (Please note that regulations for the appellation allow wines from Hermitage to be labeled either Hermitage or Ermitage. Traditionally, but not invariability, producers will label their normal cuvée Hermitage, reserving Ermitage for their top cuvée.) The 0.65-ha piece of Les Bessards has a granite base while the same size parcel of Les Greffieux lies mostly on gravel. Completing the blend is 0.45-ha of the alluvial-based Les Murets and a similar sized plot of L’Hermite with its sandy-clay loam. Philippe points out that the Syrah from each block brings complementary components to the wine. Bessards provides structure, while Les Greffieux imparts concentration. A dark minerality comes from L’Hermite, while Les Murets provides finesse. Guigal produces Ex-Voto in only the best years. The last time they opted not to was 2014. Philippe says they are unsure about making Ex Voto in 2021 because it was a rainy growing season. He notes that savvy consumers rush to buy their classic Hermitage in years when no Ex Voto is made because it contains grapes that would have gone into that upscale prestige bottling.

Back to the classic Hermitage. Although regulations allow the use of a small percentage of white grapes in red Hermitage, Guigal’s uses only Syrah. The classic Hermitage undergoes roughly four weeks of fermentation in vats before being aged in oak barrels, 50 percent of which are new, for 36 months. Despite what seems like a lot of oak aging, Guigal’s Hermitage, even when young, is always in balance and not marred by oak flavors. Philippe believes this is because the wine always has adequate concentration and because they have their own cooper, giving them total control over the quality and character of the barrels they use.

Over the last several weeks, I’ve consumed, with dinners, five vintages—1978, 1983, 1985, 1990, and 2000—of Guigal’s classic Hermitage from my cellar. Guigal produced all of them before they purchased any vineyards in Hermitage. Three points stand out. Firstly, these wines develop magnificently with bottle age. Secondly, they never seem to tire, even at 40+ years of age. Thirdly, Hermitage takes a long time to reveal its grandeur: the 2000 was barely ready to drink and still youthful at two decades of age.

Three final points. 1) Don’t overlook wines made by top négociants. 2) Judge the wines, not the technical data. Here are five examples made from purchased wine and aged seemingly for too long in oak barrels. And they’re great! 3) The most important thing on the label is the producer’s name.

Photo credit: Dee McMeekan

The wines in this tasting

E. Guigal 1978 Hermitage 96
An alluring mellow meatiness has replaced the youthful power and black pepperiness of the now suavely textured 1978 Hermitage. Floral aspects amplify its charms. Each sip brings additional nuances. Perfectly mature, it remains pristine and lively, not tired in the least. I doubt further evolution is in the cards for this polished and refined Hermitage, but I suspect it will remain on a plateau for another decade. Drinking window: 2023 – 2033.

E. Guigal 1983 Hermitage 92
The lighter weight 1983 displays a delectable combination of beefy undertones and floral red fruits. Savory elements accent this fully mature Hermitage, which seems to have faded compared to the 1978. Drinking window: 2023 – 2028.

E. Guigal 1985 Hermitage 97
This remains a monumental Hermitage, showing an explosive youthful power without a trace of heaviness. Its concentration suggests it’s more than eight years younger than the 1978. A marvelous meaty element offsets black fruit and minerality. But the wine’s suave elegance and freshness are what’s captivating. The finish of this pristine wine is seemingly endless. Drinking window: 2023 – 2043.

E. Guigal 1990 Hermitage 97
Like the glorious 1985, Guigal’s bold 1990 Hermitage exudes power and grace though with a more youthful edge. Exotic spices and dark black fruit-like nuances accent its meaty, almost bloody, character, producing a ying-yang of fruit and earth. Through it all, Guigal’s signature, a suave texture, is clear. For all its presence, it’s not a heavy wine. Drinking window: 2023 – 2048.

E. Guigal 2000 Hermitage 93
Surprisingly youthful, Guigal’s energetic 2000 Hermitage was supple and suave, but lacked the enthralling meaty and savory nuances that appear as Hermitage ages and matures. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a delight to drink now, especially if your tastes run to bold dark fruit flavors because it’s balanced and fresh. But to me, Hermitage has more to offer as it matures, so I would continue to cellar this stately beauty for another five years. Still, if someone opened it to accompany a steak from the grill, I’d happily take a glass or two tonight. Drinking window: 2028 – 2048.

Don’t Miss Maison Latour’s 2020 Burgundies

March 29, 2023 10:16 am

Founded in 1797 and still family owned and operated, Maison Louis Latour is one of Burgundy’s top producers. In addition to their own 120 acres of vineyards (over half of which are Grand Cru, making them the largest owner of Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy) they are one of Burgundy’s best négociants as well. I’ve recently recommended the stunning 2020s from Domaine Louis Latour and now turn to their négociant bottlings, which are frequently underrated because they are from, well, a négociant—a merchant, rather than from a small grower.

In the past, some négociants gave the whole category of these houses a bad name by buying mediocre finished, but unlabeled, bottled wine, slapping their label on it, and selling it. Those days are long since over. I’m told that today’s major négociants, such as Bichot, Boisset, Drouhin, Jadot, and Latour, do not buy finished bottled wine. They all buy grapes, or sometimes grape must, and then make, age, and bottle the wines themselves.

Latour, for example, has a dedicated winery in Pommard where a dedicated winemaker, Jean-Charles Thomas, carefully oversees the production of their négociant wines. Over the last couple of decades, the négociant concept has spread to small growers. Rock star-like producers, such as Méo-Camuzet, Benjamin Leroux, and Comtes Lafon to name just three, have all started their own négociant business to supplement their domaine holdings. And some big-name producers, whose wines sell out within hours of release, such as Lucien Lemoine, are entirely négociants, having no vineyards of their own. So, today the line between négociants and growers has become even more blurred.

I’ve said this before, but it’s worth repeating: Latour’s style of winemaking, firm rather than flamboyant, is a perfect fit for the fleshy wines the hot 2020 vintage produced. Latour has always favored well-structured wines that take time to open and reveal themselves. Their winemaking style changed when the 11th generation of the family, Louis-Fabrice Latour, took over in 1999. He extended the maceration just slightly to achieve a touch more intensity. Even with the change, Latour’s reds, while a bit deeper, are still not flashy and voluptuous, but rather restrained and elegant. So, the extra ripeness of the 2020 vintage is a perfect fit for their winemaking philosophy.

Two advantages the prominent Beaune-based négociants offer consumers is availability and price. Latour, like the other top négociants, buys enough grapes from multiple growers to produce adequate volumes of wines that can be sold in multiple markets. We’re not talking about hundred-case quantities from cult producers, six bottles of which wind up only in single stores in New York, Chicago, or Dallas. Latour’s wines, as with those of other top négociants, can be found widely throughout the U.S. And though Burgundy is never inexpensive these days—some prices make my head spin—wines from the major négociants, Latour’s included, are typically well-priced within the current context.

Latour succeeded across the appellational hierarchy, but their village wines are especially noteworthy in 2020. Village appellations are frequently overlooked as well-healed Burgundy fanatics claw for the limited allocations of wines from premier and grand cru vineyards, which together account only for about ten percent of Burgundy’s entire production. With such limited supply and voracious worldwide demand, it’s easy to see how prices for these exalted wines have made them accessible only to the “one-percenters.” Village wines may lack the cachet, but they hold the same magic that attracts people to Burgundy—a sense of terroir. That is, wines made from the same grapes by the same winemaker grown in different vineyards taste different.

The wines from Marsannay, for example, are enchantedly different from those from the abutting village of Gevrey-Chambertin. Latour’s village wines in 2020 show their origins sharply despite the warmth of the vintage. Excessive heat during the growing season can not only produce jammy wines, it can also blur the individuality of the terroir and make the wines taste similar. Not Latour’s 2020s. Santenay clearly tastes like Santenay and Nuits-St. Georges tastes like Nuits St. George.

Let’s start with the whites.

The Mâconnais, a region of Burgundy that lies south of the famous and considerably more expensive Côte d’Or, is the next hot spot for white Burgundy. Wines labeled Mâcon-Villages come from grapes grown anywhere throughout the region. A specific village name amended to Macon- indicates that the grapes came from a more delineated area, namely that specific village. Theoretically, the smaller the area from which the grapes come, the better the wine. Latour’s racy 2020 Mâcon-Lugny “Les Genievres” shows the perfect marriage of their style with the warmth of the vintage. It displays remarkably good density for the Mâconnais without a trace of heaviness thanks to the riveting acidity that imparts an uplifting character to the wine. Think of it as your go-to white this summer. (91 points. $24)

The two sections of the St. Véran appellation are book ends to Pouilly-Fuissé. Unsurprisingly, the wines are similar. Though when tasting the same producer’s St. Véran next to their Pouilly-Fuissé, the latter always comes away the winner, at least until you see the prices. Vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé have just been granted premier cru status and that has resulted in a price increase for even the non-premier cru wines. So, expect to see a lot more St. Véran on the market to fill the price void. Latour’s refined St. Veran “Les Deux Moulins,” is an excellent place to start to explore this appellation. As much as I liked Latour Mâcon-Lugny, their St. Véran simply has more elegance and finesse to accompany its depth and vivacity. You and you banker will decide what to drink this summer. (93 pts. $34)

Village Chassagne-Montrachet can be highly variable. Fortunately, Latour’s mineral-y 2020 is a delight, delivering a fresh stony character buttressed by mouth-watering acidity. Its finesse and prolonged length make you wonder whether they included some Premier Cru that they opted not to bottle separately. (94 pts. $120)

Latour’s regal Meursault-Goutte-d’Or, a Premier Cru, shows that they did well with the more exalted appellations as well. Goutte-d’Or, literally golden drop, is a smaller vineyard that sits at the northern end of the string of the main premier cru vineyards. Reportedly, it was Thomas Jefferson’s favorite Meursault. Its cooler east-northeast orientation gives it an advantage in warm vintages. Latour hit a bull’s eye with this finesse-filled wine, combining richness and depth with great energy and extraordinary length. (95 pts. $135)

On to the reds.

Burgundy lovers and growers have discovered the charms and potential of Marsannay, the northern-most village of the Côtes de Nuits. A younger generation of winemakers has increased the quality of the village wines dramatically. Prices have risen as a result and are poised to continue their climb now that the village is in the process of having the authorities certify some vineyards as premier cru. So, now’s the time to act by buying the luscious 2020s. And Latour’s is a good place to start. Bright red cherry-like notes complement herbal ones. Suave tannins make it easy to enjoy young—even now. It displays real Côtes de Nuits character at a Côtes de Beaune price. (92 pts., $45)

In general, the warmth of 2020 growing season added plushness to the wines from Mercurey, a village just south of the Côte d’Or in the Côte Chalonnaise, whose wines in cooler years can appear hard. The enhanced ripeness complemented their stoney character marvelously. That explains the appeal of this Mercurey from Latour. There’s great flesh on the bones. Dark cherry-like nuances persist into an exceptional finish. Its firmness—to be clear, it’s not hard—makes it a lovely accompaniment to grilled meat this summer. (92 pts. $50)

Their Santenay is another example of the great success Latour had with village wines in 2020. Good depth—the warm vintage speaking again—augments its charm. Supple, fresh, and long, it’s a delight now. Santenay reds can be a bit rustic. This one is not. Indeed, it is remarkably refined for a village Santenay. These days you rarely find this character and quality in Burgundy at this price. (93 pts. $45)

For me, wines from Nuits-St.-Georges have an engaging wildness often with severe tannins, which can make them difficult to appreciate when young. Latour managed the tannins nicely in 2020, not obliterating them, but refining them, while maintaining the captivating wildness characteristic of the village’s wines. The vintage provided sufficient density, so this youthful beauty is a balanced and quintessential example of Nuits-St.-Georges. An edgy freshness in its formidable length amplifies its character. (93 pts. $93)

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E-mail me your thoughts about Burgundy in general or Maison Louis Latour in particular at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein

March 29, 2023

An Awesome Aligoté

March 22, 2023 10:00 am

Let me get right to the point. The 2020 Aligoté from Domaine du Cellier aux Moines is the best Bourgogne Aligoté I’ve ever had, and I’ve had one from Coche-Dury. Why is it so stunning? Firstly, this Aligoté, labelled “Sous les Roches,” comes from a vineyard in Montagny planted in 1945. Secondly, the extremely focused and talented team at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines made the wine.

Although Aligoté represents only about six percent of vineyard plantings in Burgundy today, it has played a much bigger role in the past. In the 19^th century, before phylloxera, growers intermingled Aligoté with Chardonnay in grand sites, such as Corton Charlemagne and Montrachet, and blended the two grapes in the winery. After phylloxera, Aligoté fell out of favor and its acreage declined. Now it is usually planted in less renowned sites, frequently on flatter lands in the plains, and often—all too often—winds up being used for making Kir, a popular Burgundian aperitif.

The appellation, Bourgogne Aligoté, is an anomaly in Bourgogne, the epicenter of terroir-based viticulture, because it is named for the grape, not the site. The grapes for Bourgogne Aligoté can come from anywhere in Bourgogne, from the Côte Auxerrois in the north near Chablis to Mâcon in the south. (The French prefer the use of the term Bourgogne, rather than Burgundy because that’s the traditional name of the region. Plus, in French, burgundy can be translated as maroon or Mon Dieu, Bordeaux.)

Before we get to the wine, a bit of the backstory. Philippe Pascal, whose family today owns Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, explains that Raymond Corneloup planted the vines, a sélection massale, in 1945 to celebrate the end of World War II and the surrender of Nazi Germany. (A massale selection, in contrast to a clonal selection, is a selection of many different vines, each displaying a unique characteristic, to maintain the genetic diversity of a vineyard.) Corneloup, who owned vineyards and worked in Montagny, chose limestone rich soil on one of the highest slopes in that village near an old quarry, hence the name of the wine, “Sous les Roches.” When Raymond’s son, François, took over the property, he continued his father’s tradition of selling the grapes to the local Montagny co-op. That is until he retired, at which time he agreed to a long-term contract with Pascal and the Domaine du Cellier aux Moines in neighboring Givry. Today Pascal and his team do all the farming, vineyard work, and harvesting in addition to the winemaking.

Pascal notes that they have not done DNA testing to determine if any of the vines in Sous les Roches are the Aligoté Doré planted in Bouzeron, which are today felt to produce superior wines (see Ian D’Agata’s article: Understanding Bouzeron, Its Terroir, And the Great Wines of Domaine de Villaine). But he notes that the grapes are clearly golden at harvest, like those of Aligoté Dorée, because they wait for perfect phenolic maturity. Sous les Roches is tiny, only one-fifth of a hectare and the production equally minute, about 1,500 bottles in 2020.

Domaine du Cellier aux Moines 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté Sous les Roches 96

With both minerals and fruit on the nose, it is no surprise that those components of the 2020 Domaine du Cellier aux Moines Bourgogne Aligoté “Sous les Roches” caresses the palate. This thoroughbred displays incredible power and grace. An enveloping creamy richness and riveting mouthwatering saline-like acidity amplifies its appeal. You’d be excused if you failed to identify this beauty as Aligoté because of its depth and complexity. I repeat the advice that Philippe Pascal gives when showing this wine to visitors, “Do not make a Kir with it.” Its cutting edginess and luxurious body would, however, make it a good choice with a vast array of sushi, Cantonese dishes, and even bolder Asian fare. Planted in the correct site and farmed, vinified, and aged seriously in the cellar, Aligoté can develop in the bottle just like the grandest Chardonnays. Ponsot’s Morey St. Denis Premier Cru Monts Luisants, made entirely from Aligoté, shows just that, developing a layered complexity with a decade or more of bottle age. Though Domaine du Cellier aux Moines’ Aligoté is breath-taking now, I suspect it too will develop divinely with bottle age given its balance and pedigree. The problem, of course, will be keeping your hands off it. Drinking window: 2023-2030.

Finger Lakes Riesling: Paul Hobbs Has Landed

February 10, 2023 1:00 pm

Will Paul Hobbs be the Rocket that launches New York’s Finger Lakes region?

Every under-recognized fine wine region needs a high-profile producer to be a locomotive to pull it onto the world’s stage. With his new venture, Hillick and Hobbs, named after his parents, Joan Hillick and Edward Hobbs, Paul Hobbs just might do it for New York’s Finger Lakes. Robert Mondavi did it for California in the 1970s. At about the same time, Angelo Gaja drew attention to Piedmont and Piero Antinori’s work shined a bright light on Tuscany. The Drouhin family did it for Oregon in the 1980s. Well-known names either go to an area—Drouhin in Oregon—or just by making and promoting superb wines in their home region—Mondavi, Gaja, and Antinori—bring attention to the entire region. That’s not to say there aren’t excellent producers making world-class wines in the Finger Lakes today. That’s just the point. There are, Hermann J. Weimer, Dr. Konstantin Frank, and Ravines Wine Cellars, to name just three. It’s just that too few people know about them and the region. Hobbs’ presence will change that by putting a spotlight on the entire Finger Lakes region.

Paul Hobbs, one of California and the world’s leading winemaker, needs no introduction. He was among the first, if not THE first of the “flying winemakers,” those who consult in the Southern Hemisphere, effectively doubling winemaking experience. Critics consistently score his wines highly. Hobbs’ Napa Valley Cabernets and Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs routinely command triple figure price tags upon release and sell out quickly, but Hobbs has plenty of experience outside of California. He has partnerships all over the world, Viña Corbos (Mendoza, Argentina), Crocus (Cahors, France), Yacoubian-Hobbs (Vayots Dzor, Armenia), Alvaredos-Hobbs (Galicia, Spain), but what he is doing in the Finger Lakes is completely different, both commercially and viticulturally, from everything he’s ever done before. As with all his other projects, beginning all the way back to 1991, when he started in California, Hobbs has purchased fruit from top-quality growers with choice vineyards in unique terroirs whose viticultural practices met his exacting standards. He would make the wine, bottle it under his label, but also crediting the grower. He explained that it made sense commercially because start-up costs were much lower and “there was less investment if it failed.” It would be seven years after he first purchased grapes from Larry Hyde in Napa and Richard Dinner in Sonoma in 1991, for Hobbs to acquire his initial vineyard, which he named the Katherine Lindsay Estate, in honor of his great grandmother.

However, in the Finger Lakes, though he searched high and low, he could not find growers who could meet his standards and supply him consistently with grapes that met his specifications. So, he recruited his brother, David, who lived in Upstate New York—that’s what everyone who lives south of Albany calls it—and knew something about farming, to help find land suitable for vineyards. He knew it would be expensive, but he wanted to make world-class Riesling, so he felt it was the only way to go. Finally, in 2013, they acquired a 78-acre property, which had mostly never been planted, on the southeastern shores of Lake Seneca. Never mind that he had never made Riesling commercially before. He explained that he has always been fascinated by it, calling it his “gateway ‘drug’ into the wine world.”

Hobbs’ journey into wine was unusual, to say the least. Hobbs had been raised in a tea-totaling fruit farming family in Niagara County in Upstate New York. (Hobbs’ mother prohibited alcohol since her brother died of an alcohol-related accident.) In the late 1960s, his father wanted to diversify from orchard fruit and had secured contracts to supply grapes to local wineries. To convince Paul to run the farming aspect of this new project, he lured him with his first taste of wine, a 1962 Château D’Yquem served in a Dixie® cup. Hobbs recalls that his mother thought it was some exotic fruit drink—a reasonable assessment—and was happy until she saw the bottle.

At Notre Dame, Father James McGrath, his Botany professor, asked him to join his wine appreciation course. Hobbs declined at first because of his mother’s prohibition but then, using a time-honored technique—always choose which parent to ask when you need something—he asked his father, who consented. As the younger Hobbs tells it, his father and Father McGrath “colluded,” to convince him to attend the University of California at Davis, where he received a Master’s in Food Science in Department of Enology, instead of medical school. At Davis, he was a member of a tasting group that invited producers from all over the world. That’s when he really discovered great German Riesling and became fascinated by the grape. To this day, he speaks fondly of how he loves the German precision on the label. For years he managed to make side trips to the Mosel whenever he was in Europe. So, why did it take him forty years to make Riesling? Perhaps, like so many of us, he simply put off things he really wanted to pursue until later in life. He explains that for decades his world was California, then Argentina. But he always wondered where you could make great Riesling, like J.J. Prum’s. Around 2009, on another leg of his globetrotting consulting, this time for Stratus Vineyard located in Canada’s Niagara-on-the-Lake in Ontario, the proximity to the Finger Lakes got him thinking, like “a seed waiting to germinate,” about Riesling. He felt that the shale and slate-filled soil and steep slopes cascading down to the lakes was similar to the topography of the Mosel. He had already been looking for sites in Washington State and Oregon, but he found “nothing compelling.” You could, he felt, “make good, but not great, Riesling there.”

Hobbs plans to focus on Riesling exclusively, with “no burning desire to try other varieties,” though when pushed, he admits to thinking about Blaufränkisch. But he emphasizes his attention with be on making “great Riesling.” He’s not doing it to make a living—he clearly doesn’t have to—but rather to “see what we can do in the U.S. to compete with the world.” He realizes it’s an outsized investment in time and money.

There are challenges. Some years they get very little rainfall. Coupling that with some of the rootstocks they’ve chosen and the well-drained rocky soil, means that they may need to resort to drip irrigation, something Hobbs did not expect. There are steep slopes and rocks that need to be conquered to plant rows up and down the slope instead of across, a system that allows for better airflow, the need for less pesticide and better drainage, but results in greater labor costs. Manual harvesting, which Hobbs insists results in better wine, adds to the expense. Depending on the year, they may perform labor-intensive leaf thinning and/or a green harvest. All in all, Hobbs’ practices are expensive, but result in better quality grapes, which is what he’s after. Hobbs proudly notes that with these measures they keep their yields to only about three tons per acre of grapes, roughly half to one-third of what is standard in the area. Another challenge Hobbs faces is selling Riesling, which has been embraced by wine critics and wine geeks but not consumers who are put off by the unpredictable level of sweetness. To combat that fear, Hobbs is fixated on a completely dry style. His labels prominently proclaim, “Dry Riesling.” He is positioning Hillick and Hobbs Riesling at US$35, which he admits is a bargain for the quality—and I agree—and would like to see it at US$50 a bottle. To keep costs down, Hobbs built a temporary winery in Ovid, about 30 minutes away from their 22 acres (out of a possible 47) of planted vineyards. He plans a state-of-the-art winery in the future and will convert the Ovid facility to a warehouse.

The winemaking for Hillick and Hobbs Riesling depends on the vintage. To date, Hobbs finds that he achieves full physiological maturity by late September/early October with low sugar levels, of only about 20.5 to 22 brix. The amount of skin contact varies year to year. He favors whole cluster pressing with the juice going into stainless steel tanks, keeping a close eye on how much press juice goes into the finished wine. No sulfur goes into the juice. Fermentation, using native yeasts, is long and slow, sometimes finishing in the following spring. Towards the end of fermentation, he might add sulfur to kill bacteria, preventing malolactic fermentation and allowing the yeast to finish their job. Hobbs remarks that the climate of the Finger Lakes and his viticultural practices means he never needs to acidify the wine. With his name and his established projects all over the world, Paul Hobbs already has a robust distribution network for export. Though he made only 1,845 cases of Hillick and Hobbs Riesling in 2019 and only 1,765 cases in 2020, he’s already exporting it to Japan. He envisions expanding to other Asian countries and the U.K. soon. He hopes that exportation will help make the world realize the potential of the Finger Lakes region for distinctive, top-quality wine. Hillick & Hobbs has released two vintages, the 2019 and 2020, so far. Both are sensational (full tasting notes below). Riesling fans will love this duo of Riesling. Non-Riesling fans will be converted by them. They plan to release the 2021 in the spring of 2023.

It’s ironic that the winery is named, in part, after his previously tea-totaling mother. At least they no longer must drink Château D’Yquem from Dixie® cups.

The wines in this tasting

Hillick & Hobbs 2020 Riesling Estate Vineyard Seneca Lake New York USA 96

Floral hints announce good things will follow. And they do. This stellar Riesling delivers alluring subtle peach-like nuances balanced by firmness and flintiness. It has substantial weight and density, but without a trace of heaviness. Electrifyingly dry, its riveting saline minerality amplifies the wine’s charms. Befitting an excellent wine, it blossoms as it sits in the glass. Deep and long, it finishes with a delectable hint of bitterness. (12.5% stated alcohol). Drinking window: 2023-2030.

Hillick & Hobbs Riesling 2019 Estate Vineyard Seneca Lake New York USA 93

The 2019 was the first commercial vintage at Hillick & Hobbs. It’s slightly less explosively delightful than the glorious 2020, which may be a result of an extra year in the bottle, vintage variation, or just a learning curve. Nonetheless, it’s an exciting bone-dry Riesling that delivers a harmonious complexity of subtle fruitiness and stoniness. A delicate hint of white flowers on the nose complements its palate-cleansing edgy minerality. Like the 2020, it is long and refined. (12.5% stated alcohol). Drinking window: 2023-2030.

Burgundy Buying Blueprint for the 99-Percenters

February 1, 2023 1:20 pm

Even a brief glance at on-line ads from wine retailers shows that Côte d’Or Burgundy has become prohibitively expensive for everyone except the so called “one-percenters” at the very peak of the wealth pyramid. And I’ve seen even some of them balk at the prices. What’s a Burgundy fan to do while waiting for one’s lottery number to be chosen?

One option is to look to other areas, such as Oregon or New Zealand, that can produce stunning wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But that’s not an option for committed Burgundy lovers, because to them, it’s not about Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. To quote, Jacques Lardière, the venerable longtime winemaker at Maison Louis Jadot, “If you taste Chardonnay in my wine, I’ve made a mistake.” Burgundy is about the site—the Burgundians maintain that the grape is merely a vehicle for transporting the flavor of the place to the glass. So, yes, there are wonderful Chardonnays from New Zealand—look no further than Kumeu River’s line-up—and elegant Pinot Noirs from Oregon—Martin Wood’s Jesse Jackson Vineyard Pinot Noir springs to mind. But they’re not, nor do they pretend to nor aim to be, Burgundy.

Complicating the matter for U.S. consumers is the fragmented distribution of Burgundy. Aside from the major négociants, most producers are small and lack national distribution, so wines that might appear on the shelves in New York, might not be in Kansas City or Los Angeles. And even wines that wind up in major markets, such as New York, may only be available in one or two shops. So, I will recommend a general approach to finding affordable Burgundy as well as recommending specific wines.

Speaking of major négociants, do not overlook their basic Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge. I’ve enjoyed many vintages of both colors of Latour’s “Cuvée Latour” and Drouhin’s “Laforêt” bottling. (Look for more producers to jettison the word Burgundy from the label, replacing it with Bourgogne, the traditional name for the region. Indeed, burgundy in French means…Mon Dieu…Bordeaux.)

There’s plenty of excellent and exciting wine outside of the famed “Golden Slope.” And even within that hallowed ground, some villages, such as Marsannay, and Auxey-Duresses still offer value from producers like Domaine Bart (Marsannay) and Domaine Lafouge (Auxey-Duresses). Also, within the Côte d’Or, there is a new regional appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, which means all the grapes came from that strip of land and opposed to other parts of Burgundy. So, keep your eye out for wines labeled as such from top producers, such as Pernot-Belicard, Benjamin Leroux, and Michel Bouzereau.

Look North and South

Between Paris and the Côte d’Or lies Chablis, where value abounds. Though the prices of Chablis 1er and Grand Cru are rising, they remain well below their counterparts in the Côte d’Or. My advice, though, is to look for village Chablis, especially from the 2020 and 2021 vintages, from top producers. My list of is long, which is good because most of these wines will not be in all markets: Barat, Billaud-Simon, Romain Bouchard, Jean-Marc Brocard, Jean Collet, Courtault-Michelet, Dampt Frères, Drouhin, Droin, Bichot’s Domaine Long-Depaquit, Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Louis Moreau, Oudin, Pinson, Pommier, Servin, Simonnet-Febvre, Eleni et Edouard Vocoret. These are not voluptuous Chardonnay-based wines, so if that’s your preference, look elsewhere. The edgy minerality imparted by the Kimmerigdian limestone-based soil makes them a traditional choice with seafood, but the same zesty character means they can cut through and hold up to spiced dishes as well.

Around Chablis there are a bunch of relatively obscure village and regional appellations now making excellent wines thanks to a bevy of talented young producers and, yes, climate change. Wines from these areas were lean and often astringent in the past because of poor ripening this far north. Climate change has made an enormous—and positive—difference here. Look to Irancy and Epineuil for reds, Bourgogne Tonerre for whites, and Bourgogne Chitry and Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, for both colors. The whites, especially Bourgogne Tonerre, resemble Chablis with a cutting edginess, whereas the white Chitry and white Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre convey noticeable spice. The reds from these areas tend to be lighter but not vapid. The best have an intriguing interplay of fruit and savory earthiness. Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot is a star with their Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, as well as their Saint Bris, another obscure Burgundy appellation that mandates Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay. You can buy Goisot’s wines blind. They offer tremendous value. Many of the above-named Chablis producers bottle wines from these lesser-known areas. Additional names to remember are Stephanie Colinot, Christopher Ferrari’s Domaine St. Germain, Clothilde Davenne, and Domaine Richoux. Trust me, these appellations will not remain obscure for much longer.

South of the Côte d’Or is the red hot Mâconnais, which has attracted super-star producers like Dominque Lafon, whose stellar Côte d’Or Burgundies routinely sell out quickly despite triple digit price tags, and Domaine Leflaive, whose simple 2021 Bourgogne Blanc goes for $140 a bottle. Growers are discovering and taking advantage of the different terroirs in the Mâconnais. More and more are bottling under a specific village name, such as Azé, Mâcon-Vergisson, or Mâcon-Lugny, rather than a blend from several villages and labeled as Macon-Villages. Look for wines from the Bret Brothers, such as their 2021 Mâcon-Chardonnay “Les Crays.” Located in the village of Vinzelles, as in Pouilly-Vinzelles, the Bret Brothers is the négociant arm of Domaine Soufrandière, their family estate. Their estate wines have increased in price—and are still worth it—but the Bret Brothers label remains affordable and excellent value. Yes, Virginia, there is a village named Chardonnay in the Mâconnais. The grapes are from a single plot, “Les Crays” within the village. This balanced and fresh Mâcon-Chardonnay displays subtle fruity elements balanced by bracing acidity in the finish that amplifies its considerable charms. Not overdone, you’d never mistake it for a California Chardonnay. (92 pts; $25). The Bret Brothers are another producer whose wines you can buy with your eyes closed, so if you can’t find this Mâcon-Chardonnay, just remember their name.

To see the magic in the Mâconnais, find wines from different Mâcon villages made by the same producer to see for yourself how terroir exists here in the Mâconnais just as it does in the Côte d’Or—at a fraction of the price. I suggest two from a top young producer, Domaine de la Garenne, but any producers’ pairs will make the point. The difference between the chunky minerality of Domaine de la Garenne’s 2020 Mâcon Solutré Pouilly ($15, 90 pts) and the sleeker stoniness of its brother from Mâcon Azé ($16, 90 points) is illuminating. Both these wines are fabulous values.

A Few to Try:

Goisot, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre “Le Court Vit.” 2019: Goisot considers the Le Court Vit their best white wine. The 2019 is stunning, floral, and exuberant in a paradoxically restrained way. Fresh and spiced, it would be perfect with grilled swordfish or seafood with more assertive flavors. If you find a more enjoyable $22 wine, please let me know. ($22, 93)

Dampt Frères, Bourgogne Tonnerre, “Chevalier d’Éon,” 2020: Tight and youthful initially, this beauty opens in the glass within 30 minutes to reveal a winning combination of floral and mineral notes. Edginess in the finish amplifies its charms. If you tasted it blind, you’d be hard-pressed to distinguish it from a village Chablis. ($20, 92)

Dampt Frères, Bourgogne Epineuil, “Elegance,” 2019: Dampt Frères, best known for their cutting Chablis, does very well with the surrounding, lesser-known appellations, such as Epineuil. Indeed, they make at least three cuvées from that village. Elegance was my favorite of a trio of their 2019s, but I’d been happy with either of the other two, their straight village bottling, or “Les Beaumonts.” The finesse-filled Elegance delivers more black, rather than red, fruit robed in suave tannins and finished with a subtle and attractive hint of bitterness. It’s another fine choice for current consumption ($25, 92).

Christine, Elodie & Patrick Chalmeau, Bourgogne Chitry, 2019: This refined red shows the potential of Pinot Noir in Chitry. Generous yet refined, this classy Chitry expresses the near magical interplay of minerals, fruitiness, and savory subtleties of Bourgogne Rouge at a price we normals can afford. Enjoy now. ($20, 91).

Château de Chamirey, Mercurey, 2020: Between the Mâconnais and the Côte d’Or sits the Côtes Chalonnaise and the appellations of Givry (not to be confused with Gevrey, as in Chambertin), Mercurey, and Rully, all of which make both colors, and Montagny, which makes only whites. Château de Chamirey, a top-notch producer, makes an array of marvelous Mercurey, starting with this village wine. A blend of six plots from throughout the village, this stylish wine highlights subtle dark cherries in the foreground supported and balanced by a firm stone-y background. Juicy and harmonious, it’s a delight to drink now. ($40, 93).

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E-mail me your thoughts about Bourgogne at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein

February 1, 2023

Another addition to the Chianti quality pyramid: tasting Rùfina’s Terraelectae wines

January 11, 2023 12:53 pm

Federico Giuntini Masseti, president of the Chianti Rùfina Consorzio, says that the purpose of Terraelectae – Chianti Rùfina’s new top-tier category- is to highlight the special character of the Sangiovese-based wines from Rùfina’s unique terroir. The producers hope the category will allow Chianti Rùfina to emerge from Chianti Classico’s shadow and be considered a top Tuscan DOCG, like Brunello.

Chianti Rùfina, the smallest of the sub-regions of the greater Chianti area – just one-tenth the size of Chianti Classico – lies about 30 minutes by car northeast of Florence.

With a more rugged terrain and vineyards that lie at a higher elevation, the region has an overall cooler climate compared to Chianti Classico, which gives the wines a more savory and engaging wild component – Gerardo Gondi of Tenuta Bossi, one of Rùfina’s top estates, aptly calls the wines ‘mountain Chianti.’

Faye Lotero, owner of Fattoria Lavacchio, another leading estate, believes that Chianti Rùfina has an advantage with climate change because of its elevation and wind-swept terroir. Meanwhile, the under-the-radar status of Chianti Rùfina is a boon for consumers because the wines deliver more than their prices suggest.

Terraelectae requirements

The requirements for Terraelectae differ from those of Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione category, which need not come from a single vineyard, nor be made entirely from Sangiovese. In contrast, to be included in the new Terraelectae category the wines must meet Chianti Rùfina Riserva standards, come from a single vineyard, and be made exclusively from Sangiovese.

Other regulations require that Terraelectae be made from a reduced yield (70 quintals/ha) and undergo 30 months of ageing prior to release, 18 of which must be in barrel and six in bottle. The specifics of barrel ageing – size and age of the barrel, and the type and origin of the wood – are left to individual producers.

Each producer in Chianti Rùfina – there are only about 20 of them – can select a single vineyard for their Terraelectae bottling. If the wine meets the requirements and receives approval from a group of Chianti Rùfina producers, it will carry the Terraelectae moniker on the label. The producers themselves, not a regulatory authority, have set the criteria for inclusion and judge the quality and character of the wines.

Ten producers have designated a Terraelectae with the 2018 vintage: Tenuta Bossi, Colognole, Frascole, Marchese Frescobaldi, Grignano, Fattoria Lavacchio, Fattoria Selvapiana, Villa Travagnoli, Castello del Trebbio, and I Veroni.

That three more producers – Podere Il Pozzo, Fattoria Il Lago and Ormae Vinae – opted to wait and release their first Terraelectae with the 2019 or 2020 vintage is either a sign that that the self-policing by producers may be working, or is just an example of inefficiency or indecisiveness.

Predicting the future success of new wine projects is hazardous. Who would have predicted the popularity of Bolgheri wines? That said, Terraelectae has at least one thing going for it – SuperTuscan wines are not common in Chianti Rùfina, so the confusion that has arisen in Chianti Classico about whether a producer’s Gran Selezione or their SuperTuscan sits atop the quality pyramid is unlikely to surface.

As the tasting notes indicate, the 2018 Terraelectae releases showed very well, with almost all receiving more than 90 points. If the wines remain high-quality and a unique expression of Sangiovese reflecting the distinctive terroir of Chianti Rùfina, the Terraelectae moniker on the label will be useful to consumers. Self-policing by producers will be critical and will ultimately determine whether the Terraelectae designation elevates the entire region or is meaningless.

The 10 inaugural Terraelectae wines:

Fattoria Selvapiana, Vigneto Erchi Riserva, Chianti Rufina 2018

Fattoria Selvapiana, one of the area’s top producers, designated their 5ha Vigna Erchi, a site that has more iron in the soil compared to their iconic Bucerchiale vineyard. Owner Federico Giuntini thinks the difference in terroir explains why Vigna Erchi produces a bolder wine. Extraordinary elegance and a silky suaveness complement the bold dark fruit character. Though aged in French barriques for 18 months, there’s not a hint of oakiness on the palate; you just feel its influence. A classic example of muscle and refinement, the wine delivers enlivening freshness and great length. The tannins remain polished and unobtrusive even after holding the wine in the mouth. It’s a youthful wine, to be sure, but its impeccable balance predicts a long life and glorious evolution.

Points: 95

Frescobaldi, Vigna Montesodi Riserva, Chianti, Rufina, 2018

Marchese Frescobaldi are based in Chianti Rùfina and are by far the largest producer. They have been making wine from their 20ha Vigna Montesodi for decades, and by labelling this iconic wine as ‘Terraelectae’, it gives immediate credibility to the entire project. The southwest exposure of the vineyard containing well-drained clay and limestone likely explains the wine’s stature, and the wine is aged in large 30hl French and Austrian oak. Both powerful and elegant, the suave texture of this youthful wine is captivating. It unfolds and blossoms as it sits in the glass. A long and explosive finish highlights its dark fruitiness and minerality. In a word, wow!

Points: 95

Tenuta Bossi, Vigna Poggio Diamante Riserva, Chianti Rufina 2018

Marchese Gondi’s estate, Tenuta Bossi, which dates from the 16th century, opted to use the best section of their southwest-facing Vigna Poggio Diamante for their Terraelectae. Located at about 250 metres above sea level, its galestro soil is remarkably well-drained thanks to calcareous sediment. The wine is aged in a combination of large Austrian oak barrels and used barriques, and the result is a mid-weight wine that exudes delicacy and grace. Gorgeous cherry-like notes on the nose and the palate announce Sangiovese, and the texture is paradoxically suave and firm, Burgundian in character with stunning purity and length. Finely honed but apparent tannins remind you its a youthful Sangiovese-based wine.

Points: 94

Fattoria Lavacchio, Vigna Casanova Riserva, Chianti Rufina 2018

Faye Lotero of Fattoria Lavacchio selected their 1.8ha organically farmed Vigna Casanova for their Terraelectae label. Planted in 1963, the clay- and limestone-filled vineyard sits at 450 metres and faces southwest, which allows for good ripening of the Sangiovese. They ferment the wine in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks for about three weeks, before ageing it in 15hl barrels made from oak grown locally in the Florentine mountains. The wine delivers fabulous floral aromatics followed by a chocolate-tinged dark fruitiness. This suavely textured wine has an alluring smoky, savoury side. Both powerful and elegant, Vigna Casanova’s great acidity keeps it fresh while fine tannins provide plenty of structure.

Points: 94

Grignano, Vigneto Poggio Gualtieri Riserva, Chianti Rufina 2018

Grignano relied on a 1.8ha portion of their southeast-facing Vigneto Poggio Gualtieri, which they consider their best vineyard, for their 2018 Terraelectae. The wine ages in a mixture of large oak casks and barriques. Grapes from the oldest, 30-year-old-section, the Monte Fiesole plot, provide noticeable and welcome power. The flavour profile here tends toward darker cherries mixed with alluring earthy notes, imparting a lovely not-just-fruit complexity. It maintains great freshness and refinement, too. In short, an exciting young wine.

Points: 94

Travignoli, Vigna Colonneto Riserva, Chianti, Rufina 2018

The clay and limestone Colonneto vineyard, a 3.1ha expanse, is ideally situated, facing south at 310 metres high. Clemente Busi, whose family owns Travignoli, explains that they selected only a small portion of the vineyard for the Terraelectae bottling, giving them the option to expand production as the market demands. Aged in 25hl oak casks for 24 months, the wine is amazingly complex, especially considering that it was the first commercial release from only 10-year-old vines that were harvested by machine. Its depth, concentration and tannic structure belie its meager – by today’s standards – 13.5% stated alcohol. Dark mineral notes intermingle and complement black cherry-like flavours. An enlivening fresh finish amplifies this youthful wine’s elegance and stature.

Points: 93

Colognole, Vigneto Le Rogaie Riserva, Chianti Rufina 2018

The Nunzinate brothers, Mario and Cesare planted Vigneto Le Rogaie about two decades ago. They could have extended it another 100 metres but didn’t because the soil in that section was slightly more acidic and not hospitable to the clones and rootstocks of Sangiovese they chose. The upper part of the 2.1ha vineyard, situated at 420 metres and comprised of a complex soil of clay, sand, silt and limestone, provides the fruit for this Terraelectae. It undergoes a three-week maceration in 50hl stainless steel tanks followed by 20 months in large 25hl Slavonian oak barrels. The resulting wine leads with gorgeous floral nuances followed by juicy sour cherry notes on the palate. A beguiling spicy and savoury character juxtaposed with those cherry hints makes this midweight wine sing. Fine, ripe tannins and bright acidity provide appropriate structure without astringency.

Points: 93

Castello del Trebbio, Vigneto Lastricato Riserva, Chianti Rufina 2018

Castello del Trebbio, constructed in the 12th century by the Pazzi family, has been making a Chianti Rùfina Riserva from their 2.6ha Vigneto Lastricato for decades. They made a rigorous selection of 2,600 bottles for their Terraelectae bottling in this inaugural 2018 vintage. Ana Baj Macario, who, with her husband Stefano Casadei, owns the property, says that though they are not certified as biodynamic, the farming is organic and they follow biodynamic principles. Fermentation occurs in clay amphorae. The resulting wine is fresh and floral, with juicy, sour red cherry-like nuances. An attractive angular firmness balances the bright fruitiness of this mid-weight wine.

Points: 91

Frascole, Vigna alla Stele Riserva, Chianti Rufina 2018

Frascole, whose vines have been tended organically since 1999, selected the southwest-facing Vigna alla Stele for their Terraelectae label. Situated at 360 metres, this 0.72ha clay- and loam-filled vineyard is one of Rùfina’s highest, which explains why it is typically harvested a week later than the others. Fermented in open-topped 500-litre tonneaux without temperature control then macerated for about 20 days before ageing in French oak barrels for 18 months helps explain its darker, more muscular profile. The fruit is reminiscent of plums rather than cherries. Very structured and youthful, its power is front and centre at this stage, while ever-present Tuscan acidity keeps it fresh.

Points: 89

I Veroni, Vigneto Quona Riserva, Chianti Rufina 2018

Luca Innocenti, I Veroni’s longtime marketing manager, describes the southwest-facing 5.5ha Vigneto Quona as ‘on a gold hill with spectacular exposure to the sun.’ Sitting at 300 metres with clay and sandy soil, it – like all their vineyards – has been farmed organically since 2013. The wine is barrel fermented and then aged in a combination of large oak casks and barriques for 18 months. Engaging floral notes pull you in and give way to a weighty wine redolent with dark cherry-like fruitiness. Though the acidity keeps it fresh, the tannins are prominent in this youthful wine and need time to smooth out.

Points: 88

Maison Louis Latour Made Outstanding 2020s

December 21, 2022 10:19 am

The 2020 vintage in Burgundy, currently on the market, is the third hot—temperature wise—vintage in a row. It’s also a “hot” vintage judging from some critics’ reviews and retailers’ enthusiasm. Hot vintages are tricky, especially in Burgundy. The good news about growing seasons with hot, sun-drenched days is that the wines have ripe flavors and lack green, unripe ones and the accompanying palate-searing acidity. This is especially true for areas like Burgundy that traditionally—that is, before climate change—had a tough time ripening grapes. The downside of all this heat is that grapes can get a bit too ripe, which translates into wines with inadequate freshness from low acidity and wind up tasting heavy or jammy. Pinot Noir is especially sensitive to too much warmth because it loses its glorious perfume and subtlety in those conditions. Classic Burgundy, in my mind, has what I call “flavor without weight.” Too much heat during the growing season can obliterate their charms and make them weighty. Yes, you want ripeness it Burgundy, but then again, not too much. Excessive ripeness in Burgundy also blurs the differences among the appellations. The wines lose their focus as ripe flavors overwhelm the subtle differences that distinguish the terroirs one from another.

Vintages in which quality is so high you can practically choose with your eyes closed are rare in Burgundy. The 2010 and 2015 vintages for red Burgundies are excellent candidates for that kind of vintage. In my opinion, the 2020 vintage is not—precisely because of the heat.

All of which brings me to the striking success of Maison Latour’s 2020 Burgundies—both red and white. Latour’s style has always been to capture flavor and charm without going overboard. Their viticultural and winemaking practices favor maintaining vibrant acidity, which means that the 2020 vintage was perfect for their style of wines. Overall, Latour’s 2020s are fleshy and fresh with a clear definition of one appellation from another. They are structured, but not hard or astringent. Many are remarkably enjoyable now. I suspect they will remain that way for a year or so, close down for five or so years, and then start to re-emerge. Their balance suggests they have a long and complex life ahead of them.

Although Maison Latour is one of Burgundy’s venerable négociants—now under the leadership of the 12th generation of the Latour family—it is also an important grower, owning over 125 acres of vineyards, over half of which are Grand Cru. Those wines carry a circular label on the neck proclaiming Domaine Louis Latour. Christophe Diola is responsible for the Domaine wines, while Jean-Charles Thomas oversees the négociant wines.

Under the brilliant leadership of the late Louis-Fabrice Latour, who died in September at the age of 58, Latour shrewdly purchased Domaine Simonnet-Febvre in Chablis in 2003. Paul Espitalié does a fine job overseeing those wines.

Here are just a few examples of their success with the 2020s.

The Reds:

Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Cru Les Perrières, 2020: The 7.5-acre Les Perrières vineyard lies high up on the slope in a cooler locale, which may help explain this wine’s bright energy. Though tightly wound, as expected from a young top premier cru, its stature shows with gorgeous mineral-scented aromatics and impressive length. Engaging red fruit flavors intermingled with clear stony notes—the site was an ancient quarry—are clearly heard. Pure and precise, it’s a winner. (95 points; $125 for the 2019)

Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Chaillots, 2020: Wines from Aloxe-Corton, even its premier crus, are overshadowed by Grand Cru Corton and overlooked by consumers. Do. Not. Overlook. This. Wine. Its fleshy body atop a firm frame of iron-tinged flavors identify it clearly as Aloxe-Corton. Impeccably balanced and fresh, it is well-proportioned, not over extracted or overdone. It’s a mini-Corton that has the advantage that it will be approachable far sooner than its grand cru big brother. (95, $116)

Maison Louis Latour, Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots, 2020: More structured, befitting its appellation, this iron tinged Pommard Epenots is sturdy and broad, redolent of dark fruits and minerals. Though the tannins certainly speak, they are not aggressive. (92, $101)

Maison Louis Latour, Volnay 1er Cru En Chevret, 2020: En Chevret, a highly regarded 1er Cru vineyard, sits adjacent to and just below Volnay Caillerets, a vineyard many consider to be Volnay’s best. Latour’s suavely textured 2020 En Chevret exemplifies the charm and seductive nature of wines from Volnay. Floral, fresh, long, it’s captivating. In a word, wow. (94, $135 for the 2019)

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grancey, 2020: Corton Grancey, a Grand Cru and the flagship of Domaine Latour, is a blend of five of the Grand Cru lieux-dits of the hill of Corton: Bressandes, Perrières, Grèves, Clos de Roi, Chaumes. The proportion of each varies year to year, depending on the vintage. The name, Grancey, comes from the last owners of the château before the Latour family purchased it in 1891. Château Grancey, a classic multi-storied Burgundian building complete with circular staircases situated in the middle of the Corton vineyards, is the working winery where Christophe Diola makes the domaine wines. The explosive 2020 is simply sensational, one of best young Grancey releases I’ve tasted. Both powerful and refined, the wine is succulent, long, and fresh. The tannins characteristic of red Corton are there, but hardly noticeable because of its suave texture. Impeccable balance suggests this Grancey will develop beautifully. Either drink in now or in a decade or two. (97, $188)

Whites:

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis “D1840,” 2020: Simonnet-Febvre is both a négociant and a grower, owning Chablis village plots, pieces Premier Cru, Mont de Milieu, and in Grand Cru, Preuses. The D1840 bottles comes from their vineyards that have a village appellation. Fresh and stone-y, it’s a fantastic village wine, providing more excitement than many growers’ 1er cru. A citrus buzz in the finish just amplifies its appeal. Don’t miss it. (92, $30).

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis 1er cru Mont de Milieu, 2020: More elegant, befitting a 1er cru, the floral and mineral-y Mont de Milieu dances on the palate. This lovely, lacey wine is a delight to drink now with simply grilled fish. (93, $46 for the 2019)

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru Preuses, 2020: Unsurprisingly for a young Grand Cru, Simonnet-Febvre’s Preuses takes time to reveal itself in the glass. But when it does, look out. It explodes with a barrage of flint and stones all supported by riveting acidity. A long and luxurious finish confirms this is a great youthful Grand Cru Chablis. Give it a decade. (95, $96)

Domaine Louis Latour, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru En Caradeux, 2020: The very top portion of the En Caradeux vineyard carries the village, not 1er Cru appellation. But just below the demarcation, that is the upper part of the 1er Cru portion, marl-filled soil makes it a good site for Chardonnay. The whole vineyard sits across the valley from the hill of Corton and some say that the white En Caradeux is like a mini-Corton Charlemagne. Latour’s plush and ripe 2020 finishes with a welcome tinge of bitterness and good vibrancy. (92, $58 for the 2019)

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières, 2020: Anyone who denigrates négociant bottlings needs to try this extraordinary wine. A gorgeously transparent wine, its spiciness speaks of Genevrières, which vies with Perrières as the village’s top site, while its richness speaks of Meursault. Its refinement, length, and energy speak of the Latour style. (95, $96)

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne, 2020: Latour, the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne, sets the benchmark for that Grand Cru year in and year out. Explosive and forward, Latour’s ravishing 2020 is less tightly wound compared to many of their young Corton-Charlemagne, which means you can drink it now with enormous pleasure. My preference would be to cellar it for a decade or two to appreciate the phenomenal complexity their Corton-Charlemagne develops. With all its ripeness, it is not heavy or over-the-top. Great spice and acidity in the finish give it energy and length. A hint of balancing bitterness suggests that this will turn out very well. (96, $244).

In short, with their 2020s, Latour achieved an impeccable balance of ripeness and liveliness. I could buy Latour’s 2020 with closed eyes. Some of these will certainly wind up in my cellar.

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E-mail me your thoughts about Burgundy in general or Maison Louis Latour in particular at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein
December 21, 2022

From Decanter Magazine: Chianti Rùfina ups its game with Terraelectae

November 30, 2022 6:46 pm

The wines from Chianti Rùfina, a unique, high-quality sub-region of the greater Chianti area, are overshadowed by those of its larger brother, Chianti Classico. Now, Rùfina producers are striving to change that with Terraelectae, a category of wines that will sit at the pinnacle of the Chianti Rùfina quality pyramid.

Each producer – there are only about 20 of them in all of Chianti Rùfina – will be able to designate a single-vineyard wine made entirely from Sangiovese as ‘Terraelectae’ and will label it with that moniker in addition to the name of the vineyard.

This contrasts with Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione, a category created about a decade ago to highlight the DOCG’s top wines. Gran Selezione must come from a producer’s own vineyards but are not required to be made exclusively from Sangiovese, nor come from a single vineyard.

Terraelectae regulations

Terraelectae wines must be Riserva, have a maximum yield of 70 quintals/ha, contain at least 12.5% alcohol, and be aged for at least 30 months, at least 18 of which must be in oak barrels and at least six months in bottle. The concept is unusual because producers themselves, not a governmental body, are setting the regulations and overseeing the quality and character of the wines (the producers of Buttafuoco Storico in Oltrepò rely on a similar concept of self-regulation).

The wines from Chianti Rùfina are distinct from those of Chianti Classico thanks to its higher elevation and more rugged topography, both which contribute to its cooler climate. Gerardo Gondi of Tenuta Bossi, one of the region’s leading estates, describes them as ‘mountain Chianti’.

Chianti Rùfina, despite producing enticingly savoury wines, always fights for a place at the table. Chianti Classico produces at least ten times as much wine from 15 times as many producers. Habitually confused with Chianti producer, Ruffino, the Rùfina consorzio placed an accent on the ‘u’ in the 1970s to try to convince even the Italians how to pronounce it.

Eventually, Chianti Rùfina producers hope that the Terraelectae wines will combat their underrated status and propel them into the top echelons of Tuscan DOCGs, such as Brunello di Montalcino.

For the initiation of this project, nine producers designated a 2018 Chianti Rùfina as Terraelectae. The wines first were certified as DOCG Chianti Rùfina by Italian wine regulators. Next, the candidate wines were tasted by an outside consultant, Gabriele Gorelli, Italy’s first and only Master of Wine. Then, a group of Chianti Rùfina producers themselves tasted the wines to assert that they conform to a standard character and quality. Only then were the wines allowed to sport Terraelectae on the label.

It was clear from my discussions that some producers who submitted wines were asked to wait a year or two, presumably to refine quality, before being allowed to use the Terraelectae designation. Three additional producers are set to declare a wine as Terraelectae for the 2019 vintage.

The key to success of the Terraelectae project will be whether, as a group, the wines continue to remain top-notch and continue to display a common theme. Whether the self-policing by producers will work in the long term to ensure that this occurs remains to be seen.

Beaujolais Nouveau Day: May it Rest in Peace

November 23, 2022 7:14 pm

On the third Thursday of November the streets here in Beaune are getting ready to accommodate the crowds that will descend on this charming village to take part in the activities leading up to the annual Hospices de Beaune wine auction, which always occurs the following Sunday. The population of this wine capital of Burgundy swells from the everyday 20,000 to nearly 75,000 as people from all over the world converge to take part in the festivities. Adults of all ages, many with kids in tow, bundled in winter coats and scarfs, mob outdoor vendors who have set up to sell everything from sauteed frogs’ legs to foie gras to the Burgundian specialty of oeufs en murette [eggs poached in red wine]. In past years, signs pasted on bistros and wine bars all over town announced, “Beaujolais Nouveau est Arrivée” (The Beaujolais Nouveau has arrived), since the third Thursday of November is the traditional day that wine is released. Georges Duboeuf is credited with starting the fanfare about Beaujolais Nouveau four decades ago—the wine was shipped by air all over the world so consumers everywhere could open a bottle at the same time—as a way of stimulating a moribund market for Beaujolais. Duboeuf’s marketing worked, but later he was criticized for dumbing down and destroying the legacy of real Beaujolais, a wine that sold at a competitive price with upper end Côte d’Or Burgundies a century ago.

This year I noticed a distinct absence. The crowds are still here. Wine still flows everywhere. But wait. There are few posters for Beaujolais Nouveau and few of the local bistros are offering it. To my mind, that’s just as well. No doubt, Beaujolais Nouveau is a cash cow. The 2022, like past years, was sold within two months of the harvest and best consumed within months to capture its freshness. Producers get their money right away. Consumers enjoy it because it’s fruity and grapey—basically alcoholic grape juice—and sells for less than $15 a bottle. But for me, the real value and excitement of Beaujolais lies with the Beaujolais Cru wines, which are drawn from 10 villages in the north of Beaujolais that have the potential to make distinctive wine. Moving from north to south the Crus are St. Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnie, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly.

There are many producers who have contributed to the resurrection of Beaujolais. John Anderson, my friend, and colleague here at WRO, recommends them on a regular basis. (I refer you to his articles.) Kermit Lynch, a notable U.S. wine importer, dubbed Jean Foillard, Thevenet, Guy Breton and Marcel Lapierre as the Gang of Four because of their revolutionary approach to making high quality Beaujolais. Already some of their wines sell for well over $60 a bottle and can be difficult to locate. Other producers whose wines from the Beaujolais Crus that I recommend highly, are more affordable, and rest in my cellar include Château des Jacques, Marc Burgaud, Château Thivin, Clos de la Roilette, Domaine Pierre Savoye, Château de Raousset, Château du Basty, and, yes, Georges Duboeuf.

Duboeuf, in addition to flooding the market with Beaujolais Nouveau and his successful Beaujolais Flower Bottles, commercializes wine from growers in the Beaujolais Crus. Growers make the wines. Duboeuf bottles them and sells them at, I might add, very good prices, which is why I purchased several cases of the 2015s. Don’t confuse them with Duboeuf’s Flower bottlings of the various Beaujolais crus, which have just the name of the Cru on the label but do not indicate a particular grower or estate.

I’ve been enjoying my 2015s over the past several years—and still have a few bottles left. They are versatile wines which have the charm of the Gamay grape but with far more complexity and interest, certainly than either the Beaujolais Nouveau or even Duboeuf’s Flower bottlings of the Crus. Yet, with a few exceptions, they also possess the same easy drinkability thanks to their soft tannins. Moreover, thanks to these same soft tannins, they can be chilled, making them ideal in summer for chicken, sausage, or meat from the grill. Wine novices and aficionados alike embrace them—a distinct advantage when you have a diverse group at the table, say at Thanksgiving or at a non-wine-focused gathering of friends—precisely because they deliver such alluring mineral-like aspects along with engaging mixed berry fruitiness without astringency. In short, they provide something for everyone. And they’re not expensive.

From what I’ve tasted so far, Duboeuf’s 2020 single estate Beaujolais Cru wines are very successful. The 2020 Château de Saint-Amour, owned and produced by the Siraudin family, conveys the fresh lively charm for which St. Amour is known. Its smooth and seductive texture adds to its appeal. (90 pts, $18).

Duboeuf owns Château des Capitans, a 30-acre estate located in Juliénas. The cru takes its name from—who else? —Julius Cesar. Aurelien Duboeuf, who is Georges’ grandson and has recently taken a role along with his father, Franck, in the winemaking, explains, “To be the owner, you understand what is happening to the vines during the vintage.” He adds, “you can really understand the grower,” which must be important given their multiple collaborations. Duboeuf is transforming the estate to organic viticulture, which should be certified as such in 2026. The fresh and lively 2020 Château des Capitans has wonderful spice intermingled with crunchy red fruit flavors. The lower stated-alcohol, 13 percent, reflects less-ripe grapes and likely explains the happy absence of potentially off-putting jammy flavors. This is wine I would put in my cellar ($23, 92 pts).

The wines from the Côte du Py, a slope of blue granite and one of the best sites in Morgan, usually have more of a tannic firmness compared to wines from the other Crus. (Wines from Moulin-à-Vent and Côte de Brouilly share that character as well.) Duboeuf’s 2020 Morgon Côte du Py from Jean-Ernest Descombes sings. Fresh and lively, it conveys an enchanting dark fruitiness anchored to a firm, but not hard, mineral component. This is another candidate for my cellar ($35, 93 pts).

With its tarry firmness, the 2020 Duboeuf Domaine de Javernière, Morgon Côte du Py is the polar-opposite of the plush and round Château de Saint-Amour. It’s firmer and more tannic than the Georges Descombes bottling, but like that wine, has a harmonious combination of minerals and dark fruits. Since it is a more typically structured Côte du Py, it would benefit from a few years in the cellar. ($23, 92).

My 2015s Beaujolais crus from Duboeuf’s collection of estates have developed nicely over the years. I suspect their 2020s with do the same, so they’re no rush to drink them. There is, in other words, no rush at all to drink these Beaujolais!

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E-mail me your thoughts about Beaujolais at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein.

November 23, 2022

Maison Louis Jadot’s Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques: A Study in Terroir Spanning Three Decades

October 7, 2022 3:37 pm

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Changes in Chianti: A Boon or TMI?

September 7, 2022 5:54 pm

ou’d think that a region like Chianti, with world-famous name recognition, would just adopt the motto, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Not so. Changes today abound in the area, specifically the sub-regions of Chianti Classico and Chianti Rùfina, that might well lift the wines to new quality levels. But, along with the heightened quality comes the prospect of Too Much Information overwhelming the consumer.

A little background information helps navigating the new terrain. Chianti is a large region with its own DOCG (Denominazione Origine Controllata Garantita), Italy’s highest category for wine) encompassing the area in Tuscany around Florence and Siena. Within this very large region, lying between Florence and Siena, is an upscale much smaller area, Chianti Classico, with its own DOCG. The other major subzone for top-notch wine is Chianti Rùfina, lying northeast of Florence. With new designations and regulations, both Chianti Classico and Chianti Rùfina have upped their game. (For the sake of completeness, the other subzones of Chianti are Chianti Colli Senesi, Chianti Montalbano, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Colli Aretini, and Chianti Montespertoli.)

Let’s start with Chianti Classico. It’s a large area encompassing many small villages with a plethora of soil types, exposures, and elevations. This diversity alone, not to mention differences among producers’ winemaking practices, guarantees a wide range of wines. In an attempt to distinguish the wines from each of the major villages within Chianti Classico area, the Consorzio Chianti Classico, its governing body, introduced unità geografiche aggiuntive (UGAs). In theory, the wines from these 11 subzones or villages within the Chianti Classico area have unique characteristics emanating from their individual terroir. Think of the UGAs of Chianti Classico more like the village designations in Burgundy. Just as the wines from Gevrey-Chambertin should differ from those of Chambolle-Musigny, the wines from Radda should differ from those of Castellina. Of course, the elephant in the room with any geographic comparisons is the producers’ interpretation of the terroir, their wine making techniques. To really see—taste—the differences in terroir you need to taste wines from the different sites made by the same producer. As more and more producers in Chianti Classico make wines from the different UGAs, consumers will eventually be able to see the not-so-subtle differences among them.

Into the weeds we go with the 11 subzones consumers will eventually need to recognize: Castellina, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Gaiole, Greve, Lamole, Montefioralle, Panzano, Radda, San Casciano, San Donato in Poggio, and Vagliagli. The UGAs differ from the recently introduced menzione geografica aggiuntiva (MGA) of Barolo and Barbaresco which identify vineyards, not villages. Consumers will not need to learn these new UGAs immediately, because they will be used initially with the Gran Selezione tier of Chianti Classico. So, let’s speak of those and upgrades to that category.

About a decade ago, Chianti Classico introduced a new quality tier, Gran Selezione, that now sits atop the quality pyramid, above Riserva. To qualify as a Gran Selezione, the grapes must come from the producer’s estate (nothing purchased) and undergo more aging—30 months—compared to 24 months for the Riserva and be approved by a tasting panel. The allowed grapes, with a minimum of 80% of Sangiovese, remained the same. In theory, the Gran Selezione should be the estate’s best Chianti Classico.

Importantly, if producers opt to label their Gran Selezione with a UGA—they’re not obligated to—they must adhere to stricter requirements regarding the blend. At least 90% of the wine must come from Sangiovese. If producers opt to use other grapes for the remaining 10 percent of the blend, they must be only indigenous varieties—no Cabernet or Merlot is permitted.

Chianti Rùfina appears to be going one step further with their TerraElectae designation. But, again, before jumping into this set of weeds, a little background.

Grand Duke Cosimo de’ Medici III included Pomino, which at that time was included within Chianti Rùfina, along with Chianti Classico in his decree of 1716 that demarcated areas of fine wine production. A very small area of only about 1,900 acres of vines, and 20 or so producers, Chianti Rùfina makes only about 3.5 million bottles a year. For comparison, Chianti Classico has 13,000 acres under vine and produces roughly 48 million bottles annually. The most elevated vineyard in the entire Chianti region sits in Chianti Rùfina. On average, vineyards there are slightly higher in elevation than the ones in Chianti Classico. Rufina’s high elevation means the Sangiovese ripens more slowly, maturing tannins and developing a panoply of aromas and flavors. The elevation imparts brisk nights that allow the grapes to hold onto acidity, delivering liveliness to the wines.

Tom Maresca, an authority on Italian wine, describes the difference between Rùfina and Classico brilliantly, “No cypresses and bay bushes here: It [Rùfina] is higher, hillier, wilder, more rugged, with pine trees and mountain laurel as its characteristic vegetation. There are castles here, to be sure – this is still Tuscany – but they look a lot more businesslike than any in the Classico, as if they might not too long ago have been working propositions. The whole feel of Rùfina is of another age. What Rùfina does share with the Chiantis, and with most of the rest of Tuscany, is Sangiovese, but Rùfina’s Sangiovese differs widely from the Tuscan norm. It has an underlying base of earth and clay that grounds the wine foursquare, so that, as beautifully soprano as the fruit may get in its best vintages, it never lacks a complementary bass to round it. In my mind, this is a great, great terroir whose potential has not yet been fully exploited….”

Ian D’Agata, a world’s authority on Italian wines (and whose two books, Native Wine Grapes of Italy and Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs, are benchmarks for the subject) notes, “Wine lovers should not forget about Chianti Rùfina. For the most part a high-altitude, cool-climate viticultural area, its Chiantis are some of the most perfumed, flinty, and refined of all.” He emphasizes that the region can produce “very fine wines blessed by lacy acidity and refined texture that age extremely well.”

The TerraElectae concept focuses on a specific vineyard in contrast to the Gran Selezione category in Chianti Classico in which wines can come from a group of vineyards, as long as they are all owned by the same producer. The TerraElectae concept is much like the vineyard designated wines of Burgundy, but without the hierarchical classification of premier or grand cru. Chianti Rùfina wines bearing the TerraElectae designation must come from a single vineyard owned or managed by the producer, be made entirely from Sangiovese, and be in the Riserva category. Regulations limit yield and require 30 months of aging of which 18 months must be in oak and 6 months in bottle. Each producer in Chianti Rùfina is allowed to designate one vineyard as TerreElectae. So, for example, Marchese Frescobaldi has designated their 2018 Vigna Montesodi as TerreElectae, as has Colognole with their 2018 Vigneto Le Rogaie. Fattoria Selvapiana will designate their 2019 Vigneto Erchi next year.

Taken together, the UGAs of Chianti Classico and the TerraElectae of Chianti Rùfina are very much in step with the current trend of focusing on the origin of the grapes. That, in turn, should thankfully lead to more distinctive and individualistic wines.

I predict that, in the not-too-distant future, regulators will soon allow UGAs to appear on labels of the normale and Riserva Chianti Classico in addition to Gran Selezione, and that Gran Selezione will evolve from single estate wines to include single vineyard designation ones. The granularity of site-specificity will be important to wine geeks of the world, like myself. I remain fascinated by how the same grapes grown in adjacent vineyards—whether in Burgundy, Barolo, or Chianti—can result in different, yet equally enjoyable, wines. The remainder of the wine drinking population will at best, ignore the additional information, or at worst, be put off by it and turn toward more generically labeled wines or White Claw®. My advice to them is to remember the most important information on the label remains the producer. Find ones you like and drink their wines.

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In addition to Tom Maresca (Tom’s Wine Line), I am indebted to Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages, Consorzio Chianti Classico, and the Consorzio Rùfina for help unraveling the intricacies of the UGAs and the TerraElectae. And to Ian D’Agata because he’s the expert.

Email me your thoughts about Italian wines in general or those from Chianti Classico or Chianti Rùfina in particular at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram@MichaelApstein

September 7, 2022

Red Wines of Provence and Notable Rosés

August 10, 2022 10:00 pm

Rosé naturally comes to mind when thinking of the wines from Provence. But I’m here to tell you that at least one appellation in the region, Les Baux de Provence, makes terrific reds. They also make excellent rosés. Yes, you read that correctly. As someone who has not been swept away by the tsunami of pink wine, I actually find that many of the rosés from Les Baux de Provence are distinctive. Anne Poniatowski, who with her sister, Caroline Missoffe, are in charge of the venerable Mas de la Dame estate, puts the rosés of the region into perspective, “We (the producers within the appellation) wanted a rosé that was a wine, not just an aperitif.”

With only about a dozen producers and covering less than 600 acres, Les Baux de Provence is a small appellation dominated by the spectacular limestone rich Alpilles (literally, “little alps”). The appellation sits about halfway between Avignon and Marseille, surrounding the charming village of St. Rémy de Provence. It takes its name from Les Baux, the 12th century castle and village, considered one of the most beautiful villages in France, that sits on a dramatic plateau overlooking the Plain of Crau, its vines, and its olive groves. On a clear day, Marseille and the Mediterranean are visible. (The Vallée de la Baux also holds an AOP for its famous olive oil—don’t miss the ones from Moulin Cornille, the fine co-operative in Mausanne les Alpilles.)

Although the Romans produced wines here, the area gained appellation status only in 1995 and, at that time, only for the reds and rosés. Formerly, the wines were included as part of the Côteaux d’Aix en Provence appellation. The allowed grapes for the reds and rosés are the usual Mediterranean suspects, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, primarily, with lesser amounts of Carignan, Cinsault and Counoise. In addition, regulators allow Cabernet Sauvignon, though it cannot exceed 20 percent of a blend. The white wines gained AOC recognition only a decade ago, in 2011. The allowed varieties are Clairette, Granache Blanc and Vermentino, with lesser amounts of Roussanne, Bourboulanc, Marsanne, and Ugni Blanc.

Some of the reds of Les Baux de Provence are light and chillable, and, I might add, are a great alternative to the ocean of insipid rosés from around the world that flood the market. Others combine red or black fruit notes with herbal ones that sit on a base of a firm minerality, giving them a serious complexity and presence. Unsurprisingly in light of the appellation’s proximity to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, only about 20 miles to the west, some of the reds can transmit considerable power. They are splendid with grilled meats and the hearty preparations of Provençal vegetables, such as ratatouille. Consumers should always remember to look outside of established appellation origine controllée (AOC), now updated to appellation origine protégé (AOP), to neighboring IGPs (Indicatif Geographic Protégé), IGP Les Alpilles in this case, where winegrowers have more flexibility and fewer regulations. Ironically, Eloi Dürrbach, one of the founding fathers of the Les Baux de Provence AOC and with his wife, Floriane, owners of Domaine de Trévallon, one of the region’s most prominent producers whose wines often carry three-digit price tags, never used the AOC labeling he helped create. The reds of Domaine de Trévallon have always contained more Cabernet Sauvignon than regulations allowed (50 percent), so Dürrbach sold them under various regional appellations, currently IGP Les Alpilles. Regardless of the labeling, they are consistently stunning and develop beautifully with a decade-plus of bottle age. Domaine d’Éole, another notable producer whose vineyards lie within the boundaries of appellation, still opts to bottle their wines under the Coteaux d’Aix en Provence appellation.

Elizabeth Gabay and Ben Bernheim write persuasively (in their splendid book, Rosés of Southern France, $27, Zalabim Conseil, 2022) regarding the influence of site on the rosés from Les Baux de Provence, and their observations also hold true for the reds and whites in my experience. The northern side of the Alpilles is cooler than the more sun-drenched southern side, which, in general, makes the wines with northerly exposures fresher and livelier. Wines from the southern side tend to be bolder. The soil on both sides—limestone mixed with clay and perfect for fine wine—is similar. The ever-present Mistral wind helps reduce disease burden, which helps to explain why, by some estimates, 85 percent of producers in Les Baux de Provence farm organically. Producers told me they’ve proposed to the INAO, the French authorities that regulate wine production, to make organic farming mandatory. Many producers practice biodynamic viticulture and winemaking as well.

Tasting the wines from this magical part of France over the years has taught me several important things. First, though inconsistency remains, the wines from Les Baux de Provence are getting better and more sophisticated. Second, as the public has taken notice of these wines, especially the reds, prices for some of them have reached triple digits in the U.S. market. However, importantly, many bargains remain. Third, the reds are more successful overall than the whites, though whites from Château Romanin and Domaine Hauvette, both located on the northern side of the Alpilles, are stunningly impressive.

Mas de la Dame, one of the top producers of the appellation and still family-owned, has about 130-acres under vine, all farmed organically on the south side of Les Alpilles. They produce about 20,000 12-bottle cases annually and make a wide range of excellent wines that are exemplary among wines coming from this area. “La Gourmande” red, a 50/50 blend of Grenache and Syrah, falls at the light-and-fruity end of the spectrum (88 pts). Bottled under the IGP designation (because of a mistake in replanting that resulted in insufficient density to conform to AOC regulations about 30 years ago), it is refreshing and vibrant, perfectly suited for chilling and drinking in place of a rosé. A step up in complexity is their “Réserve de Mas” red, a blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The suave 2018, perfect now for current consumption, delivers a lush combination of dark cherry-like fruitiness and herbal notes atop a firm stony base. It has good weight, yet isn’t heavy (92 pts). Poniatowski feels it is typical of the appellation. Moving up the seriousness ladder of reds at Mas de la Dame, we come to “La Stèle,” a Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, made from 55 to 60-year-old vines. The very impressive 2018, also fruity, herbal, and stony, is bolder than “Réserve de Mas,” and more youthful. The tannins are firm, but not intrusive. It needs time. Be patient and cellar this winter-weight wine for a few more years (93 pts). At the pinnacle of the red range is the captivating “Coin Caché,” a blend of Grenache (85 percent) and Syrah. Explosively flavorful but not heavy, the wild strawberry and 14.5 percent stated alcohol signature of Grenache comes through. Best saved for winter, “Coin Caché” is actually softer than Le Stèle since it spends no time in new barrels. It has the appeal of Château Rayas with Provencal herbs thrown in (95 pts).

Mas de la Dame’s “Coin Caché” white, an IGP Les Alpilles blend of barrel-fermented Semillon and concrete egg-fermented Roussanne, shows how producers are innovating in ways that heighten expectations of the quality that can be achieved with whites in the area. The vibrant 2020, power-packed and stone fruit filled (Poniatowski describes it as a “winter white”) will deceive anyone in a blind tasting (92 pts). But perhaps the most surprising wine to me in Mas de la Dame’s lineup is their “Bois de Rose” (French for rosewood). Though it is a gorgeous pink, it is labeled Rose (without the accent). A portion of the wine ages for six to nine months in oak. Long and refined, it’s a serious wine, displaying a subtle hint of creaminess (93 pts). I have no U.S. prices for the wines from Mas de la Dame because, Poniatowski tells me, they are in the process of changing importers. Wise consumers will keep an eye out for them.

Most people to whom I spoke consider Domaine Hauvette to be one of the two top producers (along with Domaine Trévallon) in the area. It is certainly my favorite. Their whites, rosés, and reds are all stunning. Dominique Hauvette farms her 43-acres and vinifies the wines biodynamically. Her finesse-filled red cuvée, “Cornaline,” wows with elegance, not power. To me it has the Burgundian character of flavor without weight. The 2016 is spellbinding (95 pts, $53 for the 2015, imported byKermit Lynch).

The luscious 2016 “Cuvée Lea” (IGP Alpilles) from Domaine d’Eole, whose vineyards are also located on the southern side of Les Alpilles in Eygalières, delivers a marvelous combination of dark fresh fruit flavors, herbs, and alluring spice. It has surprising elegance for its size and carries its 15 percent stated alcohol seamlessly (93 pts).

The wines from Mas de Gourgonnier, a fabulously consistent producer located south of Les Alpilles, are well-known and widely available in the U.S. thanks to their importer, North Berkeley Imports. They’ve practiced organic viticulture for decades, before it became commonplace. The engaging 2018 Les Baux de Provence red, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, has uncommon elegance, finesse, and freshness. It’s a delight to drink now (90 pts, $20).

Mas Sainte Berthe, with its 100 acres of vines, lies on the southern side of Les Alpilles, a stone’s throw from Les Baux itself. In transition to working fully organically, they should be certified as such next year. Consistent with their site, the 2016 red Les Baux de Provence, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, conveys power and substance. It was more seamless after being opened overnight, which suggests it needs even more bottle age (88 pts).

Other producers whose red wines I’d recommend include Château Romanin, Domaine Guilbert, Domaine de la Vallongue, and Domaine des Terres Blanches. Look for changes in the wines from Château d’Estoublon, another venerable producer in the Les Baux de Provence appellation. The famed Bordeaux Prats family—former owners of Château d’Estournel—have acquired an interest in the estate and will be responsible for the winemaking. Also holding an interest in this estate are former French President Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife, Carla Bruni.

The character-filled 2021 rosé, “Equinoxe,” from the Domaine de Lauzières is just one example of the unique and appealing character of rosés from Les Baux de Provence appellation. Made entirely from Grenache Noir, it’s crisp and invigorating with alluring hints of wild strawberries. It fits Poniatowski’s description of a rose that’s real wine, not just an aperitif (92 pts).

Though not widely available in the U.S. market yet, the red wines from Les Baux de Provence offer an intriguing combination of Rhône-like fullness combined with Provencal herbs and spice. The rosés deliver considerably more complexity and interest compared to many others from Côtes de Provence. So, my advice is to branch out and try the wines when you run across them.

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August 10, 2022

E-mail me your thoughts about the red wines from Provence or rosés in general at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein

From Canada’s Quench Magazine: Rosé: Wines of Substance or Simply Pool Juice

August 5, 2022 2:52 pm

[click for pdf]

Wines from Spain’s Ravishing Rueda are Perfect for Summer

July 31, 2022 1:45 pm

The hot and muggy days of summer call for zippy refreshing wines. While many people reach for rosés at this time of the year, I find most of them to be innocuous, lacking character. Instead, I suggest trying Spanish whites from Rueda. What? White wines from Spain? I know, when most people think of Spanish wine, they think red. Rightly so. Many Spanish reds are divine. Just think of the grand wines from Rioja, Priorat, Ribera del Duero, or Toro. But I’m here to tell you that for summertime drinking you want to explore Rueda, a Denominación de Origen (D.O.) located on a plateau in the region of Castilla y León in northwestern Spain where the Verdejo grape reigns supreme.

Verdejo (which is not to be confused with the Portuguese grape, Verdelho) has been grown in this part of Spain for at least a millennium. Researchers think the grape originated in North Africa, which explains its ability to thrive in the intensely sunny, dry climate of Rueda. Verdejo typically produces crisp, edgy white wines with lightly floral aromas. Regulations require a wine labeled Rueda to contain at least 50 percent Verdejo. Other grapes in the blend might be Viura (a.k.a. Macabeo) or Sauvignon Blanc. In 2019, Viognier and Chardonnay were allowed in the blend. It remains to be seen how the inclusion of these varieties will alter the character of the wines. Wine labeled Rueda Verdejo must contain at least 85 percent Verdejo, but in practice most producers use Verdejo entirely. Occasionally, you might see a wine labeled Rueda Sauvignon, which means that at least 85 percent of the blend came from Sauvignon Blanc.

Consumers will start to see two new categories, Gran Vino de Rueda, and Vino de Pueblo, on labels. Gran Vino de Rueda wines must be made from vines that are at least 30 years old whose yield is limited, which theoretically should lead to more complex and elegant wines. In keeping with the world-wide trend of identifying origins, Vino de Pueblo on the label allows the village name to appear if 85 percent of the grapes came that village. Presumably, certain villages are home to better terroir, which produces better grapes.

Here’s a trio of Rueda, all made entirely from Verdejo, that show the wonderful range of wines from that D.O.

Bodegas Vatan, Old Vines Verdejo, “Nisia,” 2021 ($16, Jorge Ordonez Selections): Hints of white flowers draw you in. Then, the electricity in this youthful wine awakens the palate and perfectly balances the stone fruit flavors. Citrus zing in the finish just amplifies its charms. Sip it by itself or drink it with fresh seafood or a summer salad. 92 Points

Buil & Giné, Rueda Verdejo, “Nosis” 2020 ($17, Think Global Wines): Buil & Giné, based in the Gratallopes in Priorat and one of the top producers there, expanded their holdings to Rueda a couple of decades ago. Their “Nosis” bottling, made from 35-year-old vines, displays lovely floral aromas and cutting, crisp citrus flavors that balance its substantial density. Weightier than the Nisia, it is still not a heavy wine. 91

Bodegas Burdigala, “Campo Eliseo” 2016 ($49): The French team of François Lurton and Michel and Dany Rolland shows how beautifully the wines from Rueda can develop. Their more generous 2016 Campo Eliseo has traded youthful exuberance for a creamy and nutty complexity that comes with bottle age. Still supported by good vibrancy, it comes across as a far more “important” wine than most Rueda releases. 93

Aligoté: Burgundy’s Other White Grape

July 5, 2022 3:40 pm

White Burgundy is made from Chardonnay, right? Well, mostly. There’s another white grape in Bourgogne, Aligoté, that makes zippy, energetic wines perfect for summertime, and ones that are — I might add — are mostly affordable. Not an afterthought, Bourgogne Aligoté is treated with respect by top end producers, such as Coche-Dury, whose $300+ per bottle rendition is definitely not in the “affordable wine” category. Nevertheless, a 2014 Bourgogne Aligoté of his that I recently drank did show how beautifully this wine can develop and the heights it can achieve. Other Bourgogne Aligoté from highly regarded producers, such as Domaine Michel Lafarge, Domaine Pierre Morey, and Domaine Marc Colin et Fils, whose other wines might carry a triple-digit price tag, can be found retailing for under $30 a bottle. Drinking their Aligoté gives you an insight into their talents and style without breaking the bank. My friend and Burgundy expert, John Hayes, coined the term “dust buster” for these palate-cleansing wines.

Two other attributes of Aligoté explain its rising popularity among producers and consumers. Producers embrace it because is perfectly suited to climate change. Over the past two decades, increasing temperatures have given us the potential for — and frequently the reality of — overripe grapes with low acidity that translate into heavy flabby wines. Aligoté, a grape with inherently high acidity, makes fresh and lively wines despite the warmth. In fact, the extra ripeness imparted by warmer growing seasons has aided Aligoté because the thin and vapid ones are mostly now a thing of the past.

Consumers love it because Bourgogne Aligoté is a great wine to drink young to capture its vivacity. While the Premier and Grand Cru white Burgundies need years or decades to achieve their potential, wines made from Aligoté are terrific young. Certainly, they can age and develop complexity in even two to three years and more as Coche-Dury’s 2014 demonstrated. Planted in the right place Aligoté can develop like Chardonnay, as Ponsot’s Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Monts Luisants, which, surprising to many consumers, is made entirely from Aligoté, shows. It consistently develops enormous complexity with a decade of bottle age. But, in general, Bourgogne Aligoté from 2018, 2019, and 2020 vintages are a delight to drink now.

Aligoté has a long history in Burgundy. In the late 19^th century, Aligoté grew alongside Chardonnay — and was blended with it — in such revered Grand Crus sites as Corton Charlemagne and Montrachet. After phylloxera, it fell out of favor and its acreage declined. Currently, Aligoté represents only about six percent of vineyard plantings in Burgundy and is usually found in less renowned sites.

The appellation, Bourgogne Aligoté, is an anomaly in Bourgogne, the epicenter of terroir-based viticulture, because it is named for the grape, not the site. The grapes for Bourgogne Aligoté can come from anywhere in Bourgogne, from the Côte Auxerrois in the north near Chablis to Mâcon in the south. (The French prefer the use of the term Bourgogne, rather than Burgundy because that’s the traditional name of the region. Plus, in French, the word “burgundy” can be translated as maroon or, Mon Dieu, Bordeaux.)

An exception to the grape-named Bourgogne Aligoté appellation (and this being France, there are always exceptions) is Bouzeron, located just south of the Côte d’Or in the Côte Chalonnaise, an area where Aligoté is the only permitted white grape. The Aligoté in Bouzeron, Aligoté Doré, differs from the other Aligoté planted in the rest of Bourgogne, according to Ian D’Agata, one of the world’s foremost experts on wine, which might help explain why the wines from Bouzeron carry a place name instead of the more usual, Bourgogne Aligoté moniker. That said, consumers will find the charms of Aligoté wine throughout Bourgogne.

Before leaving Bouzeron, I would like to recommend some producers there. Domaine de Villaine, owned by Aubert de Villaine, who is the co-director of Domaine Romanée-Conti, and his wife Pamela, is arguably the top producer in the appellation. Their 2019 Bouzeron is positively extraordinary, combining haunting floral aspects with a hint of stone fruits and riveting acidity. It’s concentrated without being heavy (95 points, $40). The beautifully crafted 2017 Bouzeron from Jadot, under the Domaine Gagey label, was splendid when I had it in 2018. Though I’ve not had more recent ones from Jadot, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy one of theirs (about $30 — based on that 2017). Other Bouzeron producers I recommend include Domaine Cruchandeau, Domaine Jean Fréy et Fils, and Christophe Denizot’s Domaine des Moirots.

Just last month, Le Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne (BIVB), the organization that represents Bourgogne wine, hosted a tasting in New York City of an array of Bourgogne Aligoté wines that showed the extraordinary diversity — and quality — of the appellation. The first set of Bourgogne Aligoté releases were made in the time-honored fashion, that is, stainless fermentation and aging without lees-stirring. The second set of wines showed the innovation and experimentation producers were embracing both in the vineyard and in the cellar to create Aligoté with more complexity and individuality. Some growers focused on Aligoté from specific plots that they felt were especially well-suited to the variety, or from old vines, highlighting that information on the label. Others experimented in the cellar with partial oak fermentation, maybe some lees stirring (bâtonnage, in French), and using a variety of vessels for aging, such as oak barrels, concrete “eggs,” or terracotta amphora.

The contrast between the wines from these two sets was clear. As a group, the ones made using time-honored techniques for Aligoté were vibrant, highlighting their energy and brightness. Wines from the other group often, but not always, showed more complexity and weight, but occasionally oakiness overwhelmed the citrus-tinged electric character of Aligoté. My favorites, Sylvain Pataille’s 2020 “Clos du Roy” and Bichot’s 2020 “Champ Renard,” came from the second group, but overall, I preferred the consistent style and electricity of the ones fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel.

Sylvain Pataille, one of the top producers in Marsannay, emphasizes that his Aligoté is planted in the “Clos du Roy” vineyard there, one of the candidate vineyards for 1er Cru status. It has a “wow factor” not usually seen with this grape (95 points, $54 for the 2019). Bichot’s comes from a single site, “Champ Renard,” within their Domaine Adélie estate and has a beguiling complexity without losing any of its electricity (94 points, $27 for the 2019). Domaine Jean Fournier, another top Marsannay-based producer made an energetic and long 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté from old views planted in the “Champ Forey” lieu-dit in that village (93 points, $32 for the 2019). Goisot is so consistent that I’ve rarely found a wine of theirs that disappoints. Their minerally and racy 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté, fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel, certainly doesn’t and is a bargain (93 points, $22). Another Côte de Nuits-based producer, Manuel Olivier, made a 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté with great depth and structure (93 points, $19 for the 2019). The very good co-operative in Buxy in the Côte Chalonnaise produced a steely 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté that they label “Silex” after the type of soil in which the vine grows (90 points, $18 for the 2019).

Though I could not find U.S. prices for some of some Bourgogne Aligoté wines, they are still worth bringing to readers’ attention because the availability is ever changing. Bailly Lapierre, a superb co-operative located near Chablis in the Auxerrois, made a spirited 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté that’s sure to please (93 points, n/a). (As an aside, they also consistently make a racy and refreshing St. Bris, another odd-ball Bourgogne appellation that uses the Sauvignon Blanc grape, that is available in the U.S. Like Bourgogne Aligoté, St. Bris is affordable. Bailly Lapierre’s are typically invigorating and zesty, perfect for summer.) Also, from the Auxerrois, the Irancy-based producer P-L and J-F Bersan fashioned a 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté that successfully combines the energy of the variety with the warmth of the vintage that shows very well now (92 points, n/a). Since they make a consistently stunning line of Irancy, I’d keep my eyes out for their Bourgogne Aligoté. Domaine Catherine & Claude Maréchal, whose vineyards are in the Côte de Beaune, made a creamy and cutting 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté that has a substantial presence (92 points, n/a).

It’s heartening to see producers taking this grape seriously. The range of Bourgogne Aligoté provides something for everyone, from a refreshing dust buster to something with a touch more complexity. So, as usual when choosing wine, especially Bourgogne, its producer, producer, producer.

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E-mail me your thoughts about Bourgogne wines in general or Bourgogne Aligoté in specific at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein

A Bullseye for Bichot

June 1, 2022 3:19 pm

The house of Albert Bichot made an outstanding line-up of both red and white Burgundies in 2020, no mean feat since the growing conditions made success with both colors difficult because of the heat. Many critics, myself included, have raved about the overall success of the 2020 vintage for white Burgundies. I was equally enthusiastic about the reds initially, but now, having tasted a greater range of them, I realize that there is enormous variability among them. Some are spectacular and others, reflecting the heat of the growing season, are overblown, heavy, and alcoholic. However, my enthusiasm for the whites, from the Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south, remains strong.

I tasted only two wines from Bichot during my three visits to Burgundy in the fall of 2021 and March 2022, a stellar Corton-Charlemagne, and an equally superb Corton Grand Cru Clos des Maréchaudes, so I was especially pleased when they sent me a dozen samples nicely packaged in glass-stopper-sealed 200-ml bottles. Among the samples was Corton Grand Cru Clos des Maréchaudes, which showed just as beautifully from the 200-ml tasting sample as it did from the normal 750-ml bottle from which it was poured in March. It reinforced my opinion of the stature of the wine. It also assured me that the samples overall were in good condition and accurately reflected the wines.

Founded in 1831, Albert Bichot, still a family-run business, is one of Burgundy’s venerable négociants. Like other top houses such as Maison Louis Jadot, Maison Louis Latour, and Maison Robert Drouhin, they both own vineyards throughout Burgundy and buy grapes or must from growers. The wines Bichot makes from their own vineyards are bottled under the names of six different domaines, which are, moving, from north to south, the 165-acre Domaine Long-Depaquit in Chablis, the 18.5-acre Domaine du Clos Frantin and almost 9-acre Château Gris in Nuits-St.-Georges, (both in Côte du Nuits), the 38-acre Domaine du Pavillon in Pommard (Côte de Beaune), and the almost 20-acre Domaine Adélie in Mercurey (Côte Chalonnaise) and the 13-acre Domaine du Rochegrès in Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais).

Not only was Bichot successful with both colors, they succeeded with both their négociant bottlings and their domaine wines. Bichot’s charming Fleurie “La Madone” had just the right amount of spice and energy to balance its fruitiness (90 pts). It’s delicious now. With a seamless combination of red fruit and earthy notes, their floral Beaune “Clos de l’Ermitage” showed just how enticing a village red wine can be in 2020 (93 pts). Enjoyable even now, a few years in the cellars with amplify its charms. Bénigne Joliet, owner of the famed 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière monopole in Fixin sells a bit of his harvest to Bichot. In 2020 Bichot made an elegant wine showing the darker-fruited and alluring character of the Côte de Nuits (93 pts). This one will benefit from up to a decade in the cellar.

From the Domaine Adélie comes a delightful Mercurey, “En Pierre Milley,” delivering bright, cherry-like fruit offset by a hint of stoniness that makes it ideal for current consumption (90 pts). In contrast, the Domaine du Pavillon’s velvety Volnay 1er Cru, Les Santenots, needs time. It’s poised, possessing lovely structure and concentration without a trace of heaviness (94 pts). With its alluring yet subtle spice and fine tannins, the Vosne Romanée from Domaine du Clos Frantin is another example of how appealing village wines can be in the correct hands in 2020. And how alluring they can be now.

The Clos de Maréchaudes vineyard on the east-facing side of the hill of Corton is emblematic of the complexities of Burgundy: a portion is classified as Grand Cru, whereas another portion was only awarded Premier Cru status. Bichot’s youthful Corton Grand Cru, Clos des Maréchaudes (1.3-acre monopole of the Domaine du Pavillon) displays an appealing iron-tinged character. Layered and luxurious, it is truly worthy of its Grand Cru status. It’s explosive, yet not heavy, with invigorating acidity that keeps it fresh (96 pts). You will be rewarded for a decade of cellaring.

Turning to the whites, we come to Bichot’s lip-smacking Bourgogne Aligoté “Champ Renard” from Domaine Adélie. Though ripe for Aligoté—here, again, the vintage speaking—it nonetheless has the great verve you’d expect from that grape. It’s a refreshing white that’s sure to cut through this or next summer’s heat and humidity (91 pts). Bichot’s white, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, may lack the breeding of the best Côte de Beaune whites, but it has good density, is amiable and refreshing, and will be more affordable than its Côte de Beaune cousins (90 pts). If you needed more evidence that village wines should be embraced, look no further than Domaine du Pavillon’s Meursault. Rich, creamy and energetic, it towers above many lesser producers’ Premier Crus (93 pts).

With its 165 acres, the Domaine Long-Depaquit is a long-time leader in Chablis. Their monopole, Moutonne, a nearly 6-acre plot, 95 percent of which lies in Vaudésir and the remainder in Les Preuses, is unique, spanning two Grand Cru vineyards in the heart of the appellation, but carrying the name of neither. Though I didn’t taste it this round, it’s always one of their top Chablis. Domaine Long-Depaquit’s youthful and penetrating Chablis Vaudésir is ripe yet stone-y and tight as a coiled spring (94 pts). Chablis-lovers should put this in their cellars for a decade. In the meantime, look for their floral and mineral-y Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaucopins, which is seemingly delicate, but amazes with its presence and length (93 pts).

In short, judging from these samples, you can close your eyes and point when buying Bichot’s 2020 and be very happy. These wines are pure, reflective of their origins, balanced and—most important—energetic. Not a single one is hot, disjointed or overdone. The only problem with Burgundy at the village level and above—not just Bichot’s, but across the board—is price. The market for Burgundy is ever-expanding, while the production is not. Indeed, production is down considerably because of the very small 2021 harvest, which will exert even more pressure on the pricing of the 2020s. So, bring your wallet.

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E-mail me your thoughts about Burgundy in general or Bichot in particular, at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein.

Don’t Overlook Village Burgundies

April 20, 2022 9:52 pm

I’m just back from a week in Burgundy where I attended a spectacular week-long series of tastings, Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne, which turned out to be one of my best tasting experiences ever. Held biannually, visitors move from Chablis in the north to Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise, tasting wines from a group of villages each day. For example, a hundred-plus producers from Chablis and the surrounding Auxerrois arrange themselves under giant tents in Chablis on Monday showing samples of their recent vintages. The next day, Tuesday, visitors hop from Gevrey-Chambertin to the Clos de Vougeot to the nearby Château de Gilly-lès-Cîteaux, tasting wines from the villages of the Côte de Nuits. Wednesday, hundreds of Crémant de Bourgogne producers and those from the Mâconnais and Hautes Côtes gather in Beaune, allowing visitors to explore those appellations. Unsurprisingly, I learned an enormous amount about the wines from the 2020 vintage during those tastings that I will report about in this and future columns.

Spoiler alert—the 2020 whites are consistently excellent across all appellations. Some of 2020 reds, such as those from Marsannay’s Domaine Bart, are superb as well, but there is far more variability among them as compared to the whites.

What surprised me, but shouldn’t have, was how good and enjoyable the village wines are. And how well they develop with bottle age. I’m not referring just to the wines from exalted villages of the Côte d’Or, such as Gevrey-Chambertin. I found myself raving about wines from Irancy, an obscure village near Chablis that is unknown to even many Burgundians and extolling the virtues of the often-under-priced village Chablis, not its famed Premier or Grand Crus, that have developed marvelously with a decade of age.

Village wines frequently get lost in the clamor for Premier and Grand Cru bottlings. But those latter two categories account for only about 10 and one percent, respectively, of all Burgundy, which helps explain why their prices have gone through the roof and are unattainable for everyone except the one-percenters. And even some of them are having trouble affording Grand Crus from top producers. Accounting for only about 35 percent of Burgundy’s production, village wines are still in rarefied territory in terms of world-wine pricing context, but are at least more affordable. Regional appellations, such as Bourgogne, Bourgogne Aligoté, Coteaux Bourguignons, or Mâcon-Villages, to name four of the eight, complete the Burgundy hierarchical pyramid, and account for just over half of Burgundy’s total production.

When choosing village wines, remember the first rule of Burgundy—producer, producer, producer. It’s no coincidence that the village wines that I found so striking this trip all came from top producers. From René et Vincent Dauvissat, certainly one of the top producers in Chablis, came a 2015 Irancy and a 2010 Chablis, both of which had developed beautifully and were mesmerizing throughout a meal. A 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin from Trapet, with its perfect combination of brambly fruit and savory qualities, was equally beguiling. And a 1992 Pouilly-Fuissé from Château Beauregard, again one of that appellation’s top producers, displayed nutty nuances and was splendidly mature without being tired in the least at 30 years of age — quite a feat considering the abysmal nature of the 1992 vintage in general.

Don’t forget the village bottling of négociants, either. Many of them are forced to buy small amounts of premier cru wines they don’t really want to secure other wines from growers that they do really want. Those barrels of unwanted premier crus are often declassified and included in the village bottlings. For example, for years up to one-third of Jadot’s village Chassagne-Montrachet actually came from premier cru vineyards. Similarly, Drouhin’s Gevrey-Chambertin bottling typically includes a substantial amount of wine from that village’s Premier Cru vineyards.

Another secret to selecting well-priced village wines is to find villages, such as Marsannay and the aforementioned Irancy, whose prices have not kept up with their leap in quality. Marsannay, just south of Dijon, is the northern-most village of the Côte de Nuits. It achieved village appellation status just over three decades ago, in 1987. Prior to that, its wines were sold under the regional appellation of Bourgogne. Over the last two decades, the wines of Marsannay have sky-rocketed in quality as young producers have revitalized the appellation. The market has taken note of the stepped-up quality, and prices for some producers’ wines have already taken off, but bargains remain, at least for now. I say “for now” because Marsannay producers have applied to French wine regulators to classify some vineyards as Premier Cru. That classification, which will likely take at least another five years to become official, is appropriate in my mind because certain vineyards, such as Champ Salomon, St. Jacques and Langeroies, to name just three of the 14 candidates, have the potential for making distinctive and very high-quality wine.

You can be sure that once regulators officially identify Premier Cru vineyards in Marsannay, the prices of even the village wines will rise, like what’s happening in Pouilly-Fuissé. There, and after decades of study, the French wine authorities finally approved the growers’ request to award Premier Cru status to 22 of their vineyards, starting with the 2020 vintage. The rising tide of higher prices for the Premier Cru Pouilly-Fuissé has already increased the prices of the village wine. So, explore the wines of Marsannay while you can.

One of my favorite Marsannay producers is Domaine Bart, who makes an extensive range of wines from lieux-dits across the village, many of which are candidates for Premier Cru status. Bart’s impeccably balanced 2020s are terrific across the board. They avoided the potential pitfall of the hot vintage—over ripe grapes resulting in overblown wines. Bart’s Marsannay will give consumers an insight to the character of the wines from the Côte de Nuits and sell for between $30 and $50 depending on the lieu-dit.

Irancy, which lies just outside of Chablis and is Burgundy’s northern-most village appellation, is set to follow Marsannay’s pathway. The wines, initially sold only under the Bourgogne application, were promoted in 1977 to Bourgogne-Irancy, still a regional designation, and finally to a village appellation in 1998. Growers are already discussing which of Irancy’s lieux-dits might qualify for Premier Cru status, though that designation is likely to be at least a decade away. In the meantime, look out for the notable lieux-dits of Palotte, Les Mazelots, and Veaupessiot. But also, do remember the rule—producer, producer, producer—so look for Irancy wines from Stephanie Colinot, Christopher Ferrari’s Domaine St. Germain, Clothilde Davenne, and Domaine Richoux, to name just a few.

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April 20, 2022

E-mail me your thoughts about Burgundy in general at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein