Capezzana, Toscana Rosso (Tuscany, Italy) “Ugo Contini Bonacossi” 2019

($60):  The Contini Bonacossi family owns Capezzana, Carmignano’s best producer.  Ugo Contini Bonacossi, who transformed the property from the typical sharecropping agricultural endeavor of the era, into the current modern wine and olive oil producing estate, adored a particular small Sangiovese vineyard that he thought consistently produced exceptional grapes.  The family honor him with this 100 percent Sangiovese-based wine from that vineyard.  Since the DOCG regulations for Carmignano limit Sangiovese to 80 percent of the blend and require Cabernet (either Franc or Sauvignon) along with some other red varieties to comprise the remainder, Ugo, as it’s often called, was relegated to the IGT Toscana designation.  So, don’t let the lack of a bureaucratic pedigree deter you.  Many of Italy’s best wines, like Ugo, are, or have been bottled, under the IGT designation.  The youthful and striking 2019 Ugo Contini Bonacossi demonstrates the heights to which Sangiovese can rise.  Austere at this stage, its grandeur and stature still show.  Red cherry-like fruitiness sits apparent atop a firm and refined structure.  Its purity, length, and finish are beguiling.  It captures your attention with suave refinement, not overt power.  But it makes a powerful statement.  Cellar it for a decade and smile when you pull the cork.
95 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2024