Maison Louis Jadot, Santenay (Burgundy, France) Clos des Gatsulards 2020

($51, Kobrand):  Domaine Gagey in the rectangle at the bottom of the label means that the Gagey family, the longtime directors of Maison Jadot, owns the property.  So, in essence, this is an estate wine as opposed to a négociant wine for which Jadot would have purchased the grapes from another grower.  The potential advantages of an estate wine include managing the vineyard yourself and determining exactly when to harvest and press the grapes.  The stature and complexity of this village wine — more exciting than many producers’ Premier Cru — reflects those advantages.  Here is a marvelous mixture of red fruit notes, spice, and other savory elements.  Jadot has deftly added a touch of elegance to the charming rusticity found in wines from Santenay.  Even with the heat of the 2020 growing season, this wine retains grace and finesse, so, embrace for those qualities not sheer power.  This mid-weight well-priced beauty is a reminder to focus on the producer rather than worry about the pedigree on the vineyard.  Speaking of price, an even better value is the 2016 vintage of the same wine, which is gorgeously developed and even more complex, and which I have seen still available at retail for $44.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 22, 2023