Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2020

($55):  If your idea of California Chardonnay is heavy and buttery, this graceful one with surprise you.  Restrained, weighing in at a modest, 13.5 percent-stated alcohol, it nonetheless makes a prominent presence.  Despite its apparent lack of power, there’s plenty going on here.  A touch of spicy oak acts as a condiment, not the main event.  Its charms blossom as it sits on the palate.  A citrus-tinged finish amplifies its considerable appeal.
92 Michael Apstein May 2, 2023