Category Archives: USA – California

Remembering Mike Grgich: The Man Who Put California Wines on the Map

The wine world lost a giant last month.  Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, the man who thrust California wine onto the world’s stage, died at age 100 at his home in Calistoga in the Napa Valley.

Grgich, more than anyone, is responsible for California’s reputation as a place that could make great wine when his 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay took first place at a wine competition that pitted France’s best white Burgundies against upstarts from California. … Read more

Mount Veeder Winery, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2021 

($50):  Mount Veeder Winery, justifiably known for their Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet blends, has released their first Chardonnay — and it’s a resounding success.  Opulent but not overdone, it displays a buttery richness supported by uplifting acidity and energy.  It even displays a welcome hint of bitterness in the finish, reinforcing the sensory impression that it’s not a fruit bomb. Read more

Papapietro Perry, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Pommard Clones” 2020

($82):  The lush Papapietro Perry Pommard Clones bottling is the boldest of Papapietro’s trio of Pinot Noir releases, displaying ripe black fruit notes.  Like their two other bottlings, this Pinot Noir displays a velvety texture.  Reflective of its 14.4 percent stated alcohol, a touch of heat comes through in its slightly sweet finish. Read more

Cline Family Cellars, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Hat Strap” 2021

($30):  The Carneros region of Sonoma, and Napa for that matter, is cooler because it abuts San Pablo Bay, which funnels cool Pacific Ocean air into the vineyards.  Despite the cooling maritime influences, Cline has managed to create a Chardonnay with substance, reflected by its 14.5 percent stated alcohol, but without going overboard. Read more

Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Vine Hill Road 2020

($65):  This sleek and racy Chardonnay is the bookend to Tongue Dancer’s tropically infused Bacigalupi Vineyard bottling.  With a modest 13.1 percent stated alcohol, the taut Pratt Vine Hill Chardonnay delights the plate with flinty and mineral nuances.  It unfolds gloriously as it sits in the glass so don’t be put off by its initial reticence. Read more

Paul Hobbs, West Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2021

($80):  The Sonoma Coast AVA is enormous, even encompassing the Russian River Valley, a warmer locate.  Growers whose vineyards were closer to the Pacific would claim their wines came from “the real Sonoma Coast.”  Finally, in 2022 The West Sonoma Coast, a strip closest to the Pacific Ocean, was rightly carved out of the greater Sonoma Coast AVA and given its own AVA. Read more

Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Pinot de Ville” 2020

($63):  The talented team of James and Kerry MacPhail oversee Liquid Vineyl, the producer of Tongue Dancer wines.  Since everyone just refers to them as Tongue Dancer, I am using that moniker as the producer.  The MacPhails seem to favor a ripe, full-bodied style of Pinot Noir that emphasizes fruit over the grape’s potential savory side, though subtle herbal nuances do peak through in their Pinot de Ville. Read more

Modus Operandi Cellars, Petaluma Gap (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2021

($85):  Judging from the two Pinot Noir and one Cabernet Sauvignon that I tasted, Modus Operandi favors a bold style of wine.  Savory nuances add balance to this ripe,15 percent stated-alcohol, black-fruited beauty.  Despite the savory notes, it comes across as slightly riper and bolder than their Vicarious bottling. Read more

Modus Operandi Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

($115):  Olive-like and herbal nuances balance the dense black cassis-like fruit in this rich and concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon.  This muscle-bound wine carries its 15.5% stated alcohol easily.  An alluring hint of tarriness enhances the long and enveloping finish.  With a luxuriously suave texture, this archetypal Napa Cabernet would be an excellent choice with a char-broiled steak tonight.Read more

Waypoint Wine Company, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard 2020

($60):  The character of the wine announces itself with an unnecessarily heavy bottle and a wax-covered cork, which makes opening it difficult.  A glossy, intense, cream-laden Chardonnay flows from this impressive packaging.  Bright acidity amplifies its seductive texture.  This well-made wine won’t be for everyone, but those who embrace lush ripe Chardonnay with oomph with love its buttery richness.Read more

Bonterra, Mendocino County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon McNab Ranch Vineyard “The McNab” 2020

($60):  Whenever the name of a wine starts with “The,” you know the producer wants to make a statement.  An overweight bottle adds to that message.  Made with biodynamically grown grapes, this is a big, bold style of Cabernet.  Powerful and concentrated, it’s not overdone, just intense with a commanding presence. Read more

Charles Krug, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2021

($17):  This middle-of-the-road style of Sauvignon Blanc strikes the right balance.  A mid-weight wine, it has enough bite and varietal character so you know what you’re drinking, but it doesn’t shake you by the lapels as many Sauvignon Blancs might.  A pleasing roundness makes it a great choice as a stand-alone aperitif wine, but it has enough acidity to keep it interesting throughout a meal.Read more

Quivira Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Fig Tree Vineyard 2021

($30):  Quivira’s Sauvignon Blanc from their Fig Tree Vineyard shows that site and blend combines to make a far more complex wine.  The vineyard sits at the confluence of the Wine Creek — I wonder who gave it that name — and Dry Creek, which, according to their website, imparts freshness because of the rocky alluvial soil. Read more

Landmark Vineyards, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay “Overlook” 2020

($21):  Landmark  Vineyards, founded in 1974, is another “old timer” in Sonoma County winemaking.  Focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, they make consistently good examples of both.  Take this Chardonnay for example.  Not overblown, it still has plenty of richness.  Good acidity gives it life and balances the moderate oaky richness. Read more

Masút Vineyard and Winery, Eagle Peak (Mendocino County, California) Chardonnay Estate Vineyard 2020

($42):  Ben and Jake Fetzer, grandsons of Barney Fetzer who founded the very popular and successful Fetzer Vineyards in Mendocino County in 1968, have followed the family tradition.  Working together, they are responsible for both the viticulture and winemaking at Masút, a 1,200-acre property their parents founded in 1994. Read more

Rural Wine Company, Eagle Peak (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2019

($17):  The focus of this mid-weight and well-priced Pinot Noir is clearly on the fruity, cherry-juice aspect of that grape.  Suave tannins allow for immediate enjoyment.  It carries the 14 percent stated alcohol without difficulty.  A touch of sweetness in the finish allows consumers to enjoy it as a stand-alone aperitivo-type of wine or with spicy Latin America fare.Read more

Masút Vineyard and Winery, Eagle Peak (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir “Big Barrel” 2019

($65):  Ben and Jake Fetzer, grandsons of Barney Fetzer who founded the very popular and successful Fetzer Vineyards in Mendocino County in 1968, have followed the family tradition.  Working together, they are in charge of both the viticulture and winemaking at Masút, a 1,200-acre property their parents founded in 1994. Read more

Pisoni Family Vineyards, Monterey County (California) “Lucy Pico Blanco” 2021

($22):  Filled with lots of tropical fruit-like flavors, this charming blend of Pinot Gris (70%) and Pinot Blanc displays good weight— that’s its 13.9 percent stated alcohol speaking — buttressed by sufficient balancing acidity.  The tropical fruit profile conveys the barest hint of sweetness, but the energy imparted by the acidity holds it together nicely. Read more

Bonny Doon Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Picpoul 2021

($16):  Picpoul, literally translated as “lip stinger,” is widely planted in southern France where it’s prized for its impressive acidity.  Growers also love it for its propensity towards high yields.  Though I’ve had plenty of experience with Picpoul de Pinet, a southern French wine made from the same grape, this is the first one I’ve tasted from California, even though Randall Grahm tells me he’s been making this wine for six or seven years. Read more

Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Virginia’s Block, Jane’s Vineyard 2020

($25):  This mid-weight Sauvignon Blanc delivers plenty of concentration along with balancing energy.  Its 14.5 percent stated alcohol announces itself with a touch of heat in the finish, but the overall effect is not one of heaviness, just intensity.  It is a Sauvignon Blanc with power, which makes it a fine choice with tomato-based seafood dishes.Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc “Fumé Blanc” 2020

($20):  Dry Creek Vineyard has always excelled with Sauvignon Blanc.  And the 2020 is no exception.  A trio of Sauvignon species, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Musqué, and Sauvignon Gris, comprise the blend of this winsome wine.  Dry Creek names it Fume Blanc to remind the consumer it’s a Loire style of Sauvignon Blanc  — zippy and mineraly — in contrast to those coming from Bordeaux. Read more

Gambal-Work, Sta. Rita Hills (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Bentrock Vineyard 2018

($45):  It should come as no surprise that Gambal-Work’s Chardonnay should be outstanding, considering the beauty of Alex Gambal’s white Burgundies.  This tightly wound one from the Bentrock vineyard displays a chalky minerality reminiscent of a top Chassagne-Montrachet.  Youthful and reticent, it needs time in the glass to express itself. Read more

Far Mountain, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Myrna” 2019

($54):  The grapes for this refined and reserved Chardonnay come from two cool sites.  Roughly two-thirds come from Bald Mountain Vineyard, which is dry farmed and sits atop the second highest point of the Mayacamas Mountains.  The other third comes from the Thornton Vineyard, a cool spot that sits at the base of the Sonoma Mountain. Read more