The combination of a top producer, Domaine Geantet-Pansiot, and old vines explains why this is such a great village wine. Founded in 1954, the estate has grown over the decades and now includes more than 32 acres of vines mostly in Gevrey Chambertin, including holdings in the Premier Cru, Le Poissenot, and the Grand Cru, Charmes-Chambertin. Erwann Boivin, their Commercial Director, informs me that the vines for this village wine are over 75 years old and come from plots throughout the village. It bold, without being overdone, and conveys what for me is the emblematic Gevrey earthy-leathery-briary aspect that balances its dark fruitiness. Almost invisibly, fine tannins lend support. A startling – for the vintage – freshness amplifies its allure. Lovely and approachable now with grilled meat, this 2023 has a great future ahead of it, so I wouldn’t hesitate to find a space for it in the cellar and revisiting it in a decade.
93 Michael Apstein – April 22, 2026