Though not an officially delimited area, Brézé is the unofficial “grand cru” area of Saumur. Saumur is an outlier in the Loire because it makes dry wines from Chenin Blanc, the region’s signature grape. One of the beautiful aspects of Chenin Blanc is that it can make both enticingly dry and voluptuously sweet wines, which, of course, presents a question for the consumer: How do you know what you’re getting? The answer is to remember the appellation. Saumur whites are dry, and Arnaud Lambert is one of Saumur’s top producers. His 2023 Midi, with Brézé prominently figured on the label, is a delight, highlighting minerality. It has good depth — Brézé speaking — despite a modest 12.5 percent stated alcohol. Despite its bracing acidity, which imbues the wine with life, there’s a roundness, a subtle fruitiness, that adds complexity and a mouth-filling quality. Drink it this summer with grilled fish, steamed clams, or even take-out sushi.
94 Michael Apstein – Sep 3, 2025