Montagny, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the famed Côte d’Or that makes only white wine, remains an underappreciated site for white Burgundies. As usual, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines shows the heights an appellation can achieve. Les Combes, produced from young vines planted in 2012 in this south facing vineyards, displays the stoniness you’d expect from Montagny, but with an added touch of excitement. A vibrant finish amplifies its appeal. Still tightly wound, it benefits from time in the glass, so don’t rush it.
92 Michael Apstein – June 4, 2025