Savennières, a small appellation just west of Angers in the Loire Valley, produces the most prized dry wines made from Chenin Blanc. Clos du Papillon is one of the top vineyards in the appellation. Add to that Baumard, one of the best producers in the region, and it’s no surprise that you wind up with a sensational bottle of wine. The schist/volcanic soil of the appellation no doubt contributes to the allure of Baumard’s polished 2021 Clos du Papillon. Tightly wound at this stage, there are underlying hints of stone fruit flavors accented by a touch of lava-like minerality, all wrapped in a waxy glossy coat. It’s bursting with energy and power, but not yet ready to emerge and show its stuff. This is a white to rest quietly in the cellar for a few years. But do find space for it because it’s a unique wine.
94 Michael Apstein – Sep 3, 2025