Maison Joseph Drouhin, Montagny (Burgundy, France) 2023 ($49, Dreyfus Ashby)

Montagny, an appellation that takes its name from the eponymous town in the Côte Chalonnaise, is a consistently fine place for affordable white Burgundy. It boasts many 1er Cru vineyards as a quirk of war. Situated within the occupied zone during World War II, the Germans had to pay for classified wines, so growers rushed to get vineyards promoted. I’m a bit surprised that more vineyards weren’t classified! I bring this up because, as with all of Burgundy, but especially Montagny, rely on the producer over the classification. And one never goes wrong with wines from the venerable négociant house of Joseph Drouhin. Their lush 2023 shows the ripeness of the vintage, while a pleasant stoniness, emblematic of wines from the Côte Chalonnaise, underpins it. Drink it with pleasure this summer.
90 Michael Apstein – July 22, 2026