Editor’s Note: Our Senior Columnist, Michael Apstein, MD, FACG, is a gastroenterologist at the Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center in Boston, a Fellow of the American College of Gastroenterology, and an Assistant Professor of Medicine at the Harvard Medical School. If some of the material in this column sounds familiar, it is because the author uses portions of an article published on this site on December 10, 2025, to explain why drinking wine may be beneficial to health.… Read more
Firmly established in Échevronne in the Hautes Cotes de Beaune, Domaine Jean Féry, still family run, has been making wine there since 1969. They were early advocates of organic farming, achieving organic certifications for all their vineyards in 2011. They do not receive the recognition they deserve, which is a good thing for consumers because it means their pricing is more reasonable.… Read more
Founded in 1836 and still family-owned, Mosnel is one of the top producers of Franciacorta which arguably, is Italy’s finest sparkling wine. This vintage-dated beauty, named with the initials of the founder, Emanula Barzanò Barboglio, is simply stunning. Made entirely from organically grown Chardonnay, fermented in oak barrels and aged on the lees for 36 months, it delivers elegance and a wow-factor without heaviness.… Read more
It is hard to decide between Mosnel’s Parosé and their EBB 2019 if you’re splurging on bubbly in defiance of a dry January. You will not be disappointed with either of them! The Parosé, a seamless and lively blend of Pinot Noir (two-thirds) and Chardonnay delivers red fruited power swaddled with finesse.… Read more
The justified popularity of Assyrtiko has meant that producers are growing it outside of its traditional home on Santorini. One of the potential problems when the grape is grown outside of Santorini is that the wine tends to lose some of its delightful punchiness.… Read more
Cloudy Bay is credited with catapulting Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc onto the world’s stage decades ago. Well, it turns out, they haven’t lost the touch over the ensuing decades. The bright and balanced 2022 has the typical tang associated with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc coupled with good depth, so it avoids the pitfall of being a one-trick pony.… Read more
Full disclosure: I’m a sucker for Langhe Nebbiolo. For me, it conveys the alluring ying/yang of fruit and savory nuances of Nebbiolo without the need for bottle aging like Barolo or Barbaresco. It is often my go-to category at a restaurant.… Read more
Vara calls this their “Signature Series.” The LG in the label stands for Laurent Gruet, who is their sparkling winemaker and who put New Mexico on the map with the exceptional Gruet sparkling wines. Now, having tasted a range of Vara wines, I see why they highlight this one.… Read more
Despite its palate weight, Tenuta Stella Ribolla Gialla weighs in at a meager 12 percent stated alcohol, showing that you don’t need super ripe grapes to get richness. Savor this beauty gradually, because it opens as it sits in the glass.… Read more
Unlike this easy-to-appreciate wine, the label needs some unraveling. Cavazza needs no introduction. They are a top producer in the Veneto, based at their estate, Tenuta Cicogna. Despite receiving DOC status more than 50 years ago, the Colli Berici, or the hills of Berici, is not terribly well-known.… Read more
The Eguren family, of Rioja fame, founded Bodega Teso la Monja after they sold Numanthia-Termes to the luxury group Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) in 2008. They had founded Numanthia-Termes, a project that turned out to be critical in resurrecting the Toro DO (Denominación de Origen), with Jorge Ordóñez, the famed Spanish wine importer, about a decade earlier.… Read more
Although the vast majority of Châteauneuf-du-Pape (95%) is red, a little white is made under that appellation. Chapoutier, a star Rhône producer, has bottled a delectable example. Straw yellow, it has good weight without heaviness. Wonderful acidity balances the stone fruit nuances in this robust white.… Read more
The joys and frustrations of Vouvray are the same. Here is an appellation that makes stunning wines from Chenin Blanc that range from dry to sweet. The challenge for the consumer is to know what style is in the bottle before pulling the cork.… Read more
The Sireci family owns Feudo Montoni, which was founded in 1469 and is one of Sicily’s oldest producers. They focus on autochthonous varieties, such as winsome Nero d’Avola, made from organic grapes. When done right, as this one exemplifies, Nero d’Avola displays an alluring combination of red and black fruit complemented by savory nuances.… Read more
A recent endeavor, Sealionne released their first wines only a few years ago. Well, it’s either beginner’s luck or they are on to something. Having tasted two of their Pinot Noir releases from the 2022 vintage, and now this stellar Chardonnay, I suspect it’s the latter.… Read more
H. Billiot, a family-run firm, farms about 12.5 acres in Ambonnay, a village classified as Grand Cru and located in the Montagne de Reims, an area well-known and prized for Pinot Noir. The village also claims Grand Cru status for Chardonnay, which is why this stunning rosé carries the Grand Cru designation.… Read more
I am excited by the current wines coming from Burgundy’s Hautes Côtes because they deliver the charm and weightlessness of Burgundy at prices that we 99-percenters can afford. So, I’ve broken down what would have been a very long article into two parts.… Read more
Vattan, a family-run estate founded in the 1930s, is now run by Pascal and Nathalie Joulin, who took over from the founder’s son, Michel, in 2008. They opted to keep the family name on the label. The “O-P” designation indicates that the grapes come from vines planted on a combination of Oxfordian and Portlandian limestone, common to Sancerre and to Chablis as well.… Read more
Lambrusco’s identification as a sweet sparkling red wine, is, thankfully, a thing of the past. We Americans are learning what the Italians have known for decades: dry Lambrusco is the perfect match for richly flavored dishes. We, in fact, opened this one to pair with foie gras over the holidays, and it worked.… Read more
A native of Champagne, Boris Champy spent a decade in California at Dominus and another decade as the technical director at Beaune-based Maison Louis Latour. It’s an understatement to say he knows something about wine. He’s rightly championing the Hautes-Côtes as an appellation for making affordable and high-quality Burgundy.… Read more
With his wines, Boris Champy shows the potential of wines from the Hautes-Côtes, the area just above and to west of the Côte d’Or. In the past, almost everyone dismissed wines from the Hautes Côtes because the elevation made it difficult to ripen the grapes.… Read more
Laurent Gruet, the man who put New Mexico on the map as a place for top quality sparkling wines, is now the sparkling winemaker at Vara, which helps explain why the wines across the board are so good. Typically, in the Champagne method, at the end of the second fermentation, the winemaker adds a little wine and sugar, known as the dosage, to round the edges of the finished Champagne.… Read more
Vouvray, known especially for dry and sweet still wines made from Chenin Blanc, also produces unique sparkling wines from that grape. This still family-owned estate has been making sparkling wine using the traditional method of fermentation — as in Champagne — since 1959.… Read more
Although at first glance, Cabernet Franc may not be associated with Tuscany, the grape has been grown there for over 500 years, since Catherine de’ Medici brought it back from France in the 16th century. Vignamaggio, an estate that makes marvelous Chianti Classico, also does wonders with Cabernet Franc as this organic example from the excellent 2019 vintages shows.… Read more
Vignamaggio’s Merlot reminds us that this grape, in the right hands, can make complex and serious wines, not just up-front fruit bombs. A lovely tannic presence complements its plummy, dark fruit qualities. A hint of attractive bitterness in the finish is a telltale sign that this Merlot is serious.… Read more
The joy of Vouvray is that the appellation makes a glorious array of dry and sweet wines – and everything in between – from Chenin Blanc. The frustration of Vouvray is not knowing which style will emerge before pulling the cork.… Read more
Chianti Classico is one of my go-to wines when dining out because of the consistent quality of the category. I’m even more enthusiastic when I see a producer, like Volpaia, whose wines I always adore, on a wine list. So, it was an easy decision to select this 2022 when eating at Follia, an Italian place in New York’s Gramercy neighborhood.… Read more
Wines from Vouvray, which can vary from dry to sweet, can be confusing for consumers because the level of sweetness is not always clear from the label. Here, the back label correctly identifies this winsome wine as dry. Made entirely from organically-grown Chenin Blanc, the ripe and round Silex d’Orfeuilles reflects the warmth of the vintage.… Read more
A bit of background explains why this, and other Vara sparkling wines, are so good. Laurent Gruet, raised in Champagne, had been making world-class sparkling wines in New Mexico for 25 years under the eponymous Gruet label before he sold the company in 2014.… Read more
The Hautes Côtes, as they are called, the area extending above the Côte d’Or, is making better and better wines thanks to climate change that allows the grapes at this higher altitude to achieve excellent ripeness. And since the appellations still have a distinctly down-market reputation, the prices remain reasonable — at least for Burgundy.… Read more
Droin, one of my favorite Chablis producers, made a spectacular Vosgros in 2022. This lesser known Premier Cru vineyard lies south of the town of Chablis itself, on the left side of Serein River. The vineyard has the best of both worlds, lying in a cool valley, yet mostly as a west-facing amphitheater that assures excellent ripening.… Read more
This powerful sparkling wine, made predominantly from Pinot Noir (75%) dazzles with subtlety spiced strawberries supported by great acidity. Chardonnay adds balance and elegance — and keeps you coming back for another glass. Though labeled as rosé, its color is more gold than pinkish.… Read more
Editor’s Note: For this scientifically oriented article, I should note up-front the credentials of WRO’s Senior Columnist Michael Apstein, MD, FACG. Dr. Apstein is a gastroenterologist at the Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center in Boston, a Fellow of the American College of Gastroenterology, and an Assistant Professor of Medicine at the Harvard Medical School.… Read more
In addition to their Domani, a Barolo made from a blend of grapes across the DOCG, Campàro also makes this one, Coste di Vergne, from a vineyard located in the commune of Barolo itself. Subdued fruitiness balances its dark, tar-like minerality while fine tannins provide structure to this youthful Barolo.… Read more
This La Morra-based MGA, Boiolo, from Campàro brilliantly shows that the French have no monopoly on terroir. Despite being made with the same grape, Nebbiolo, as this producer’s wine from the Coste di Vergne growing site, Campàro’s Boiolo displays an entirely different face of Barolo, showing the importance of site.… Read more
Chapoutier, one of the top Rhône producers, consistently makes a winsome Crozes-Hermitage, from the generally flatter and larger appellation surrounding the exalted Hermitage hill. Their Syrah-based, mid-weight 2023 Les Meysonniers, made from organically grown grapes, displays fresh and lively red fruit notes overlain with peppery nuances.… Read more
Petit Manseng, a grape known for its small berries — hence its name — is native in southwest France where its high acidity balances its ripeness, making it a fine choice for sweet wines. The grape is gaining appeal in Virginia, where Early Mountain transforms it into a dry wine.… Read more
Both charming and robust, this Chianti Classico Riserva blends dark cherry-like fruit with alluring and balancing “not just fruit” nuances. A bit of Merlot in the blend adds to its heft without overpowering and detracting from its character. Though youthful, it’s fine to drink now because of its freshness, fine tannins, and complexity.… Read more
The youthful and firm 2020 Domani seemingly combines the best of the 2018 and 2019 vintages of this wine. It has the weight and black fruitiness of the former harmonized with the elegance and prettiness of the latter. Like the 2019, this beautiful Barolo should be enjoyed now for those who enjoy its youthful energy and structure or cellared for a decade to see it all come together as this balanced young Barolo will.… Read more
Campàro, a family-owned estate founded in 1980, has gradually and thoughtfully expanded. They started by selling wine in bulk, then purchased vineyards, became certified as organic, and they now have about 20-acres in and around the Barolo DOCG. Their Domani bottling comes from vineyards in the comunes of Grinzane Cavour, Barolo itself, and La Morra.… Read more
Sealionne’s Kilig Pinot Noir shows more “oomph” compared to their more delicate Métier bottling. Spicy oak also adds heft and an extra dimension but at this stage is a touch dominating. Nonetheless, lovely, bright cherry-like fruitiness and a suave texture make it delightful to drink now.… Read more
This masterful Chardonnay-dominant blend contains a significant portion (a third) of reserve wine, which likely helps explain its stature. No dosage allows the clear fruit and mineral aspect to speak clearly. Even without a touch of sugar to round its edges — there are no edges to round — its impeccable balance and length make this a joy to drink.… Read more
Wine drinkers I speak to believe that “value” and “Bordeaux” don’t belong in the same sentence. There’s no question that the prices fetched today by the 60 Cru Classé wines are not bargains, except perhaps to the one-percenters. However, bargains do exist in Bordeaux, and they are easy to find.… Read more
A heavy bottle accurately predicts a full-bodied wine, weighing in at a stated 14.5 percent alcohol. This broad and deep style of Sangiovese delivers a dark, almost tarry mineral aspect atop a dark black cherry base. At almost a decade of age, the tannins are still apparent yet not slightly intrusive.… Read more
I reviewed this racy beauty earlier this year because it could cut through the heat and humidity of summer. I just tasted it again, at GupShup, a fine Indian restaurant in Manhattan where it cut through the heat found in that cuisine.… Read more
If all Cava were of this quality, some leading producers would not have left the D.O. This powerful, Pinot Noir-based rosé delivers notes recalling wild strawberries atop a firm backbone of acidity. Bright and racy, there is plenty of depth here, making it a fine choice for the plethora of flavors included in a tapas meal.… Read more
This delicate, pale colored Pinot Noir, weighing in at (what these days is a “mere”) 13 percent stated alcohol, captivates with its savory, rather than fruity profile. Certainly not an opulent or rich style of Pinot Noir, the amount of enjoyment it delivers for its light weight is deceiving and astounding.… Read more
Full disclosure: I love Langhe Nebbiolo. It has the much of the allure of Barolo without the decade-long need for bottle age. Campàro’s beguiling 2022 combines an aromatic floral aspect with complementary savory nuances both on the nose and the palate.… Read more
Latour started this project in the mid-1980s, finally buying land and planting Pinot Noir in this part of Provence in 1990. They purchased and renovated a winery in the area. The winemaking is identical to what they do in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or.… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Beaune-based négociant who has always been known for their structured and precise white wines, expanded outside to Burgundy further south into the Ardeche to produce Chardonnay in the 1980s. The result has turned out to be very successful as a source for bargain-priced wine.… Read more