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Domaine Vincent Wengier, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($21)

Although Aligoté, the second white grape of Bourgogne, comprises only about 10 percent of the white plantings there, climate change and increased interest in the grape by growers makes Bourgogne Aligoté worth exploring. In the past, Aligoté, a lean and acidic wine, was used primarily to offset the sweetness of crème de cassis in an aperitif, Kir.… Read more

Alexandre Burgaud, Beaujolais-Villages Lantignié (Burgundy, France) La Colline de Chermieux 2019 ( $28)

Alexandre Burgaud represents the 4th generation of the family producing wine in Beaujolais. Although not a cru like Moulin-à-Vent or Fleurie, Lantignié, a village in the Beaujolais-Villages appellation that lies just outside of the designated cru appellations, can make distinctive Beaujolais (and deserves to be granted cru status).… Read more

Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($24)

Goisot, one of the top producers in the Côtes d’Auxerre, an up-and-coming appellation just west of Chablis, makes an extraordinarily consistent range of wines from that appellation. Their name on the label is a guarantee of quality. And because the appellations of Côtes d’Auxerre and Bourgogne Aligoté are less well known, the wines provide superb value.… Read more

Maison Albert Bichot, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($40)

The major Beaune-based négociants either make wines from their own vineyards or from grapes or newly pressed juice (must) they purchase from others. Sometimes they even buy wine made by others and finish the aging process themselves. They prefer to make wine from either their own grapes or purchased grapes because they control the pressing of the grapes, and the resulting wine is usually better.… Read more

Tenute Silvio Nardi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($36, Kobrand)

Rosso di Montalcino, sometimes called “Baby Brunello,” can come from vineyards designated for Brunello—usually declassified Sangiovese that didn’t make the cut—or vineyards that are presumably less well situated and reserved strictly for Rosso. Nardi, a top Brunello producer, uses Sangiovese from young vines in Brunello-designated vineyards as well as Sangiovese from Rosso vineyards to produce this charming and fresh wine.… Read more

Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Reserva (La Rioja, Spain) “Monte Real de Familia” 2019 ($23, Bodegas Riojanas USA)

Although Rioja Reserva wines spend only a year in barrel, like Crianza bottlings, the source of the grapes is typically better and the required two years of bottle aging before release smooths out the rough edges. The mid-weight Monte Real de Familia Reserva delivers less fruitiness, and more complexity, with a distinct savory component.… Read more

Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Gran Reserva, La Rioja, Spain “Monte Real” 2014 ($48, Bodegas Riojanas USA)

Gran Reserva wines from Rioja require a minimum of five years before release, with at least two years in barrel. The grapes for Gran Reserva are always the highest quality, in this case Tempranillo from Bodegas Riojanas’ best vineyard. Fitting the expected profile, the mid-weight but not ponderous Gran Reserva from Monte Real conveys an impeccable balance of darker fruit and an appealing savory, almost leathery, kick.… Read more

Bortolomiol, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Bandarossa” Extra Dry 2023 ($25)

Prosecco Superiore, as my colleague here at Wine Review Online recently pointed out, is a category of Prosecco that is a step above those labeled simply Prosecco because the land from which the grapes come is, well, just better. Bortolomiol, certainly one of the names to remember, makes a range of fine Prosecco sparklers.… Read more

Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2023 ($50, Demeine Estates)

As my colleague here at Wine Review Online recently pointed out, “it’s the time to taste the ‘Good Stuff’” in reference to Prosecco. Well, this Cartizze from Sandi is really the “Good Stuff.” Cartizze, with its area of only about 250 acres of vines and accounting for about 0.1 percent of Prosecco’s output, is considered the pinnacle of the Prosecco quality pyramid.… Read more

Ronchi di Manzano, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2022 ($20, R&B Wine Imports)

Pinot Grigio grapes actually have a pinkish hue to them. When crushed gently, they make the usual white Pinot Grigio wine. When crushed with a touch more force or when the skins and juice are kept in contact for a little time during fermentation, the wine has a copper (ramato in Italian) tint.… Read more

Cascina Adelaide, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Vigna Preda 2019 ($28, R&B Wine Imports)

My familiarity with Cascina Adelaide is limited to their superb Barolo, so I jumped at the chance to taste this Barbara d’Alba. Well, based on this example, their Barbera is in the same league as their Barolo releases. Cascina Adelaide’s aromatic 2019 Barbera is a delight because it’s fruity, but not too much so, and not heavy.… Read more

Badia di Morrona, Chianti Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2021

($26, VOS Selections):  Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva.  The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively.  Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften. Read more

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2022

($29, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co):  Saint Véran, an appellation in Mâconnais, the southern part of Burgundy, abuts and surrounds Pouilly-Fuissé.  Like its more famous — and expensive — neighbor, it makes only white wines and only from Chardonnay.  Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, has been making a consistently excellent Saint Véran year in and year out for decades. Read more

Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2022

($40):  Combine William Fèvre, one of the top producers in Chablis, with an excellent vintage for that region and you get a terrific village wine.  William Fèvre owns a staggering 200 acres of vineyards in Chablis, just under half of which carry either 1er Cru or Grand Cru designations, which leaves them a lot of choice for what they bottle under the village appellation. Read more

Badia di Morrona, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Taneto” 2021

($25, VOS Selections):  I was unfamiliar with the Pisa-based producer, Badia di Morrona until their Italian public relations firm sent me samples.  After tasting a trio of their wines, I’m glad I’ve been introduced!  Taneto, a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese, and Merlot, delivers both dark fruit and a “not just fruit” character that makes it very appealing. Read more

Badia di Morrona, Terre di Pisa DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese “VignaAlta” 2019

($42, VOS Selections):  With their N’Antia, Badia di Morrona shows how well Bordeaux varieties do in Tuscany outside of Bolgheri.  With VignaAlta, they show that Sangiovese reigns supreme in Tuscany.  Racy and elegant, the youthful 2019 VignaAlta is show stopping.  Sure, red and dark cherries, the signature of Tuscan Sangiovese, are evident but more emerges as the wine sits in the glass. Read more

Lionel Faury, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Ribaudes” 2021

($41, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):  St. Joseph, an important but sometimes overlooked appellation in the Northern Rhône, is exceptionally long, running on the west bank of that river from Cornas in the south to Condrieu in the north.  Its soils and exposures are varied, given its length, unlike its more circumscribed neighbors, Cornas, Hermitage, and Côte Rôtie, so it’s hard to generalize about the wines. Read more

Rotem and Mounir Saouma, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Arioso” 2020

($175, Vintus):  With Arioso, and indeed all of Rotem and Mounir Saouma’s Rhône wines, the finesse and weightlessness of Burgundy meets the muscle of the Rhône.  In Burgundy, the husband-and-wife team is a mini-négociant, buying small amounts of grapes or newly pressed wine from growers—typically just a few barrels—raising it, and bottling it under the Lucien Le Moine label. Read more

Silver Oak, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

($100):  Plush and sexy, Silver Oak’s dazzling 2020 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon delivers succulent dark fruit offset by black olive-like nuances.  Polished and suave tannins provide support without being intrusive or distracting, allowing for immediate enjoyment with a steak.  Good acidity keeps it bright and you coming back for another sip.Read more

Quality Mexican Wine? Surely, You Jest?

Indeed, I do not.  During a week-long family vacation to Mexico City over Christmas last year, we drank a range of intriguing and excellent wines from Mexico, along with Tequila, Mezcal and beer, of course.  My takeaway message, in addition to finding some surprisingly good Sauvignon Blancs, Nebbiolos, and orange wines, was the seeming attitude of “let’s see what works.” … Read more

Nicolas-Jay Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “L’Ensemble” 2022

($75):  Nicolas-Jay, a collaboration between Jean-Nicolas Méo, who runs the celebrated Domaine Méo-Camuzet, one of Burgundy’s top producers, and Jay Boberg, a music industry giant, is just a decade old and is already one of Oregon’s leading producers.  Only the second vintage vinified in their own winery, their 2022s all have a captivating purity and elegance. Read more

Rocche Costamagna, Barolo Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) Rocche Dell’Annunziata “Bricco Francesco” 2016

($96):  Costamagna’s majestic Riserva, Bricco Francesco, comes from the higher part of Rocche Dell’Annunziata, which most producers believe has better soil and exposure.  At eight years of age, its bricky color suggests maturity, but don’t be fooled.  At this stage, engaging floral notes are apparent, followed by mineraly and red fruit nuances. Read more

From Decanter Magazine: Drinking wine with meals linked to better health outcomes

Public health officials and scientists continue to debate whether moderate drinking is harmful or beneficial. There is no debate that heavy drinking or binge drinking is harmful to health. Both are.

In the late 20th century, there was a flurry of studies that showed—and a 60-Minutes television segment that popularised the idea—that moderate drinking protected the heart.… Read more