Let me get right to the point. The 2020 Aligoté from Domaine du Cellier aux Moines is the best Bourgogne Aligoté I’ve ever had, and I’ve had one from Coche-Dury. Why is it so stunning? Firstly, this Aligoté, labelled “Sous les Roches,” comes from a vineyard in Montagny planted in 1945. Secondly, the extremely focused and talented team at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines made the wine.
Although Aligoté represents only about six percent of vineyard plantings in Burgundy today, it has played a much bigger role in the past. In the 19th century, before phylloxera, growers intermingled Aligoté with Chardonnay in grand sites, such as Corton Charlemagne and Montrachet, and blended the two grapes in the winery. After phylloxera, Aligoté fell out of favor and its acreage declined. Now it is usually planted in less renowned sites, frequently on flatter lands in the plains, and often—all too often—winds up being used for making Kir, a popular Burgundian aperitif.
The appellation, Bourgogne Aligoté, is an anomaly in Bourgogne, the epicenter of terroir-based viticulture, because it is named for the grape, not the site. The grapes for Bourgogne Aligoté can come from anywhere in Bourgogne, from the Côte Auxerrois in the north near Chablis to Mâcon in the south. (The French prefer the use of the term Bourgogne, rather than Burgundy because that’s the traditional name of the region. Plus, in French, burgundy can be translated as maroon or Mon Dieu, Bordeaux.)
Before we get to the wine, a bit of the backstory. Philippe Pascal, whose family today owns Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, explains that Raymond Corneloup planted the vines, a sélection massale, in 1945 to celebrate the end of World War II and the surrender of Nazi Germany. (A massale selection, in contrast to a clonal selection, is a selection of many different vines, each displaying a unique characteristic, to maintain the genetic diversity of a vineyard.) Corneloup, who owned vineyards and worked in Montagny, chose limestone rich soil on one of the highest slopes in that village near an old quarry, hence the name of the wine, “Sous les Roches.” When Raymond’s son, François, took over the property, he continued his father’s tradition of selling the grapes to the local Montagny co-op. That is until he retired, at which time he agreed to a long-term contract with Pascal and the Domaine du Cellier aux Moines in neighboring Givry. Today Pascal and his team do all the farming, vineyard work, and harvesting in addition to the winemaking.
Pascal notes that they have not done DNA testing to determine if any of the vines in Sous les Roches are the Aligoté Doré planted in Bouzeron, which are today felt to produce superior wines (see Ian D’Agata’s article: Understanding Bouzeron, Its Terroir, And the Great Wines of Domaine de Villaine). But he notes that the grapes are clearly golden at harvest, like those of Aligoté Dorée, because they wait for perfect phenolic maturity. Sous les Roches is tiny, only one-fifth of a hectare and the production equally minute, about 1,500 bottles in 2020.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté Sous les Roches 96
With both minerals and fruit on the nose, it is no surprise that those components of the 2020 Domaine du Cellier aux Moines Bourgogne Aligoté “Sous les Roches” caresses the palate. This thoroughbred displays incredible power and grace. An enveloping creamy richness and riveting mouthwatering saline-like acidity amplifies its appeal. You’d be excused if you failed to identify this beauty as Aligoté because of its depth and complexity. I repeat the advice that Philippe Pascal gives when showing this wine to visitors, “Do not make a Kir with it.” Its cutting edginess and luxurious body would, however, make it a good choice with a vast array of sushi, Cantonese dishes, and even bolder Asian fare. Planted in the correct site and farmed, vinified, and aged seriously in the cellar, Aligoté can develop in the bottle just like the grandest Chardonnays. Ponsot’s Morey St. Denis Premier Cru Monts Luisants, made entirely from Aligoté, shows just that, developing a layered complexity with a decade or more of bottle age. Though Domaine du Cellier aux Moines’ Aligoté is breath-taking now, I suspect it too will develop divinely with bottle age given its balance and pedigree. The problem, of course, will be keeping your hands off it. Drinking window: 2023-2030.
Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014. To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one. This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires. But 2020 Willamette whites suffered little or not at all and should not be shunned because the white wine is made with little skin contact, so the smoke taint is not a problem. Nicolas-Jay’s 2020 Affinités is ripe and lush without being in your face or heavy. Indeed, it’s a restrained style of Chardonnay. A touch of spice and vibrant acidity keeps you coming back for more. A great value, given the prices of top New World Chardonnays.
Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust. Put this one in the latter category. Earthy notes support dark fruit character. Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. It opens beautifully as it sits in the glass over a half hour so don’t rush it. A good choice for hearty fare this winter.
Ghiaie della Furba, a Super Tuscan blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah from Capezzana, Carmignano’s top producer, is a robust wine when young. Even at eight years of age, this tightly wound beauty reveals its glories slowly as it sits in the glass. Its suave and glossy tannins enrobe its mineral qualities. An intriguing meatiness — that’s the Syrah speaking — emerges. Its balance and my experience with Ghiaie della Furba suggest this 2015 has a beautiful future. That said, those who enjoy wines at a more youthful stage of their evolution can enjoy it now if you decant it and don’t rush it.
Carmignano, Tuscany’s smallest DOCG, is unique because it requires the use of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, in the blend with Sangiovese. Capezzana makes the benchmark Carmignano. Their 2016, from a spectacular vintage and still widely available retail, is a great introduction to the DOCG. It delivers black cherry-like fruitiness and earthy firmness, focusing on its earthy, not fruity side. Lovely now after a few years of age, I have no doubt it will continue to evolve, if you can keep your hands off it. It’s a great buy!
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, located in Vosne-Romanée, is one of Burgundy’s top producers. They added a portion of Corton-Perrières, a vineyard that epitomizes the firm austerity of Corton, to their portfolio in 2009. Jean-Nicolas Méo is enthusiastic about the 2020 vintage saying, “[2020] is a great vintage, and you can believe me because I’m selling the 2021.” The ripe 2020 vintage is especially well-suited to an otherwise austere site, like Corton-Perrières because the warmth of the vintage adds a luxurious fleshiness to the bones of this wine. It leads with an explosive mineral and dark fruit-infused aromatics that follow on the palate. Fleshy and firm, it has unusual energy and vivacity given the warmth of the vintage. This long and graceful Corton will reward decades of cellaring, but it is quite captivating right now.
La Rioja Alta is one of Rioja’s top producers. Their Viña Ardanza, an exquisite blend of Tempranillo (80%) and Garnacha, brings both red fruit and savory nuances together. Subtle mature hints add complexity and intrigue. Suavely textured, the emphasis is on elegance and stature, not power. A delicate hint of bitterness in the finish reminds us that this is not a fruit-laden powerhouse. Indeed, it does not overwhelm initially, but wham, it sneaks up on you. It’s a joy to drink.
With wines like this one Portugal is poised to supply the world with satisfying wines at good prices. A blend of four red grapes, Alicante Bouschet (50%) Touriga Nacional (30%) Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, known for making power packed wines, it is — unsurprisingly — a bold wine. But it’s not overdone. Robust with lots of dark fruit, yes, but it is remarkably well-balanced and bright. An excellent winter-time wine. The producer is Casa Relvas, but that’s relegated to small type on back label so everyone will know it by Herdade de Sao Miguel.
Light and fresh, Le Cesolina is just what you want with Valpolicella. Don’t misinterpret the light and fresh moniker to mean vapid. Not at all. Though this juicy red wine weighs in at a mere 12.5 percent stated alcohol, it delivers plenty of enjoyment with juicy red cherry-like flavors. Mild tannins mean it’s a great candidate for chilling and drinking during the summer. Think of it as a Rosé with flavor.
When you run across a wine at this price that’s this enjoyable, it makes you smile. This bright and juicy mid-weight wine has an engaging mix of red fruits accented by a hint of spice. Mild tannins allow immediate enjoyment. In a word or two, it has a charming rusticity. It’s perfect for pizza or a take-out rotisserie chicken.
Before Seña, Almaviva, Clos Apalta, or Viñedo Chadwick appeared on the scene, there was Don Melchor, standing head and shoulders above every other Chilean wine. Formerly, Don Melchor was the flagship of the Concha y Toro winery. Since 2019, it has become its own entity and winery within Concha y Toro, hence the subtle change in producer to Viña Don Melchor. Make no mistake: It is still Concha y Toro’s flagship and one of Chile’s — and the world’s — best Cabernet-based wines. Enrique Tirado, Don Melchor’s winemaker, explains that the wine is an expression of Cabernet Sauvignon, which explains why that grape always comprises at least 90 percent of the blend. The 2020 Don Melchor leads with a subtle hint of mint and other aromatic herbal nuances. It’s refreshingly restrained, not a fruit bomb, with suave tannins that magically provide plenty of structure. As it sits in the glass, plum-like fruitiness intermingles with spice and savory notes. It impresses with elegance and persistence, not power.
This bright, mid-weight Tempranillo-based wine is a pleasure to drink now. Fresh and lively, it is fruity, but not too fruity, and carries its stated 14.5 percent alcohol seamlessly. Mild tannins provide needed structure without astringency. Its price makes it an everyday kind of wine.
The character of the wine announces itself with an unnecessarily heavy bottle and a wax-covered cork, which makes opening it difficult. A glossy, intense, cream-laden Chardonnay flows from this impressive packaging. Bright acidity amplifies its seductive texture. This well-made wine won’t be for everyone, but those who embrace lush ripe Chardonnay with oomph with love its buttery richness.
Bodegas Muriel makes a range of wines, all of which are easy to recommend. Frankly, I would buy all three of the current releases reviewed this week, then invite some people over, and give everyone a quick lesson in Rioja. A Reserva requires three years of aging prior to release, which results, in this case, in a more serious wine. Darker and more brooding than Muriel’s Crianza, this Reserva has attractive bitterness in its bright uplifting finish. Polished tannins are appropriate and not overwhelming. Here is another bargain to drink now, with a heftier meal.
Rounding out this trio of Muriel wines is their stunning old vine Reserva. It is just better, more complex and layered compared to their “regular” Reserva with an even finer texture. It’s the kind of wine that makes you pause after the first sip. With power and elegance, it is truly an iron fist in a velvet glove. All of its complexity and weight comes with only 13.5 percent stated alcohol, which just goes to show you don’t need over-ripe grapes to make a terrific wine. At the price, it’s a steal.
The wines of Rioja have been labeled traditionally by the amount of aging they receive prior to release. By law, a Crianza must receive at least one year of barrel age followed by a year of bottle age before release. In practice, a Crianza of has enough substance that two years of aging benefits it. This lively one delivers a darker fruit profile with subtle and alluring smoky elements. Suave tannins lend support without intruding. It conveys more complexity and minerality than you would expect at the price. Don’t miss it.
Jordan deserves high praise for never wavering from their course of making full-flavored yet elegant Cabernet Sauvignon. Rob Davis, Jordan’s first and longtime, 1976 to 2019, winemaker, told me he wanted “wines with balance” with low alcohol, not “tannic monsters.” The 2018 fits their style — elegance and freshness. Thankfully, not a powerhouse — weighing in at less than 14 percent stated alcohol — it impresses with length and grace. There’s plenty of flavor here, both fruity and savory, but without a trace of heaviness. Uplifting acidity amplifies its charms. As usual, fine tannins allow immediate enjoyment. But don’t be deceived by its approachability. At a vertical tasting in 2012, the Jordan 1976 Cabernet had developed splendidly. So, if your bank account allows, put some in your cellar.
In my opinion, CampoFiorin was Masi’s greatest gift to the world of wine. Basically, Masi created a wine with more oomph and character than Valpolicella, but without the weight and massive profile of Amarone. In short, a mini-Amarone that’s approachable now. It gives you an insight into the potential grandeur of Amarone. Currently, Masi uses the appassimento method, the same as for Amarone just less of it, which combines wine fermented regularly with wine fermented from dried grapes. The result is a bolder, yet balanced Valpolicella with an alluring combination of fresh and dried fruit notes. Darker fruit — think plums rather than cherries — adds heft without a trace of heaviness. Suave, fine tannins mean it’s ideal for drinking this robust wine this winter. It delivers a beguiling not-just-fruit character in the finish. Another bargain from Masi!
Masi’s Costasera Amarone is a big — 15 percent stated alcohol — bold, wintertime wine. Amarone is made using only dried grapes, in contrast to their CampoFiorin, which leads to a higher finished alcohol and more power. There is a hint of sweetness in the finish that balances the wine’s intensity. For all its size, its texture is remarkably refined and suave. It’s a hefty wine with suave tannins, what some would call a Texas steakhouse wine.
This is a stylish and refined Bordeaux blend of roughly two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot filling out the rest. Leading with great aromatics, the emphasis is on elegance rather than power, though there’s plenty of that as well. Fine tannins lend support and structure without astringency. This graceful wine would be a good match for a rib roast or other hearty beef dish.
Whenever the name of a wine starts with “The,” you know the producer wants to make a statement. An overweight bottle adds to that message. Made with biodynamically grown grapes, this is a big, bold style of Cabernet. Powerful and concentrated, it’s not overdone, just intense with a commanding presence. An intriguing hint of tarry bitterness in the finish emphasizes that this is a serious wine, not just a powerhouse of ripe fruit. Moderate, but finely honed, tannins add necessary structure and balance without intruding. Taken together, this powerhouse calls for a steak or leg of lamb this winter. As an aside, it’s hard to ignore the paradox of environmentally friendly viticulture and the unnecessarily heavy bottle.
This middle-of-the-road style of Sauvignon Blanc strikes the right balance. A mid-weight wine, it has enough bite and varietal character so you know what you’re drinking, but it doesn’t shake you by the lapels as many Sauvignon Blancs might. A pleasing roundness makes it a great choice as a stand-alone aperitif wine, but it has enough acidity to keep it interesting throughout a meal.
Over 35 years ago, in 1985, Cloudy Bay put New Zealand wine on the world’s stage with their riveting Sauvignon Blanc. They, more than anyone, were responsible for the meteoric growth and popularity of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Year in and year out, they continue to produce a stellar example of that wine. Their 2022 Sauvignon Blanc fits their mold with depth and concentration offset by citrus energy. Great length and an uplifting finish magnify its charms.
Dog Point’s Sauvignon Blanc has been a favorite of mine since Fred Ek, owner of Ex-Cellars, their importer at the time, introduced me to it a couple of decades ago. Dog Point, still family owned, made a delightful one in 2021. Good weight and depth balance its zingy and minerally edginess. Its pleasantly piercing bite awakens the palate without being aggressive. A long citrus finish enhances and reinforces its vibrancy.
Montagny, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of Burgundy’s famed — and expensive — Côte d’Or has always been an insider’s place to find affordable white Burgundy. With ever increasing prices in Burgundy, it has become and even more popular place for those wines. Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, a top producer in Givry, another under-the radar village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is best known for their stunning wines from that village, but has spread its imprint to other villages. With this wine, certainly one of the best Montagny bottlings I’ve ever tasted, they catapult themselves to the upper echelon of Montagny producers as well. It delivers an impeccably balanced combination of succulent fruitiness atop a stone-y base that screams Côte Chalonnaise. It has good weight and concentration without being heavy or overbearing. Its mouthwatering minerality makes this wine sing.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines produced a stunning array of 2020 whites. With this one, they achieved a perfect combination of creamy character associated with Côte de Beaune whites and the stone-y mineral character of Mercurey whites. Like their Montagny, this is one of the best white wines from Mercurey I’ve had. Don’t miss it.
Also made with organically grown grapes, the Veramonte Reserva Pinot Noir is darker and more structured than Alto de Casablanca’s Ritual bottling. It also delivers more savory notes. Taken together, this youthful Pinot Noir calls both for more robust fare and either a year or two in the cellar or an hour in the glass.
Made with organically grown grapes, this Pinot Noir conveys an enticing combination of red fruits and savory qualities, all touched with a hint of toasty oak. The suave texture of this fresh and juicy mid-weight Pinot Noir makes it ideal for current consumption, with, say, grilled salmon.
Like the unnecessarily heavy bottle, this stunning single-vineyard Malbec is a weighty bold wine but with remarkable balance for its size. This robust wine carries its 15 percent stated alcohol well. Suavely textured, it still has enough structure to counter the deep plum-like fruit and slightly alluring tarry elements. Unlike many Malbec, despite its size, it is not one-dimensional. It’s remarkably fresh and uplifting, especially for such a robust wine. The wine speaks for itself. They can ditch the bottle.
Masi, one of the leading Valpolicella/Amarone producers, makes a wonderful range of wines. Made from the usual Valpolicella grapes, Corvina, Rolindella, and Molinara, Masi’s mid-weight Bonacosta, their “regular” (though there’s nothing regular about it) Valpolicella Classico delivers juicy bright cherry flavors. Fresh and fleshy, its smooth texture makes it perfect for current consumption. It’s a great choice with a tomato-based pasta or grilled meat. And it’s a bargain for what it delivers.
In addition to making very fine single vineyard Baroli, Batasiolo makes this Riserva from grapes grown throughout the delimited Barolo region. Indeed, some of the grapes that could have gone into their single vineyard bottlings are used in the Riserva to maintain consistency and quality. This is a positively gorgeous Barolo that is just entering its period of drinkability, which is not surprising since most of the grapes came from vineyards within Serralunga, Batasolio home base. Barolo from Serralunga, in contrast to those from La Morra or Barolo itself, are more structured and take longer to come around. Still showing ripe fresh fruit flavors, mineral notes and tarry ones appear and complement the wines fruitiness. The tannins are suave yet provide a firm structure. It would be an excellent choice with hearty fare this fall and winter.
Consumers unfamiliar with Nerello Mascalese, the signature grape of Sicily’s Mount Etna, should grab this bottle. Lava-like mineral notes complement the sour cherry like ones in this mid-weight red. A long an explosive finish reminds you this is a wine to sip and savor. It displays a Burgundian sensibility. That is, it’s deceptively light in weight, yet provides a powerful presence. Its refined and sleek structure allows you to enjoy it now.
Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most main red grape, is worth getting to know because it can deliver an appealing combination of fruitiness mixed with non-fruit elements. Take this one, for example. Its initial delivery is heavy on the fresh, black cherry-like notes. Time in the glass reveals an alluring smokey earthy quality. This mid-weight wine has fine tannins that provide structure, but don’t intrude on current enjoyment. Its freshness and vivacity remind you that Sicily is not necessarily too hot for fine wine. This bargain-priced red is perfect for wintertime fare.
The 7.5- acre Les Perrières vineyard lies high up on the slope in a cooler locale, which may help explain this wine’s bright energy in a hot year like 2020. Though tightly wound, as expected from a young top premier cru, its stature shows with gorgeous mineral-scented aromatics and impressive length. Engaging red fruit flavors intermingled with clear stony notes — the site was an ancient quarry — are clearly heard. Pure and precise, it’s a winner.
Wines from Aloxe-Corton, even its premier crus, are overshadowed by grand cru Corton and overlooked by consumers. Do. Not. Overlook. This. Wine. Its fleshy body atop a firm frame of iron-tinged flavors identify it clearly as Aloxe-Corton. Impeccably balanced and fresh, it is well-proportioned, not over extracted or overdone. It’s a mini-Corton that has the advantage that it will be approachable far sooner than its grand cru big brother. It’s charming now, so drink it in the next year or so, after which I suspect it will close down, to re-emerge in a decade as a grand wine.
Cupole is the second wine of Tenuta di Tinoro, a “Super Tuscan” that commands a three-digit price tag — and the first digit is not a one. Like the first wine, Cupole is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot that varies year to year to years depending on how the individual varieties fare during the growing season. The 2020 Cupole, a bold wine, has surprisingly suave tannins and a silky texture for its size. A lovely subtle bitterness in the finish adds to its appeal. Many will not be deterred by a hint of heat in the finish — from its 14.5 percent stated alcohol speaking. In truth, the alcohol reflects the ripeness and robust nature of this beautifully textured wine. It would be a good choice this winter with a hearty slab of beef.
Gavi is one of the unsung stars of Italian white wines. This one, from Batasiolo, a top Barolo producer, is made entirely from Cortese grape grown in the village of Gavi, from which the DOCG takes its name. Fiorenzo Dogliani, whose family owns the Batasiolo estate, explains that Gavi lies only 30 miles north of Genoa and the Mediterranean Sea. That may explain the saline-like acidity that enhances and amplifies this wine’s depth. Its length and minerality is dazzling. An appealing concentration balances its enormous energy. Ready now, it’s a fine choice for anything from the sea.
Brigaldara, a family-owned estate since the early 20th century, is one of the leading lights in Valpolicella. The make a stunning array of wines linked by a gracefulness that belies their power. Take this Valpolicella Superiore. It shows a mixture of red and black fruit flavors, but with a healthy dose of savory, non-fruity ones — spices and herbs — that add tremendous intrigue. This mid-weight wine has more power that its sleek and elegant body suggests. Cranberry-like acidity keeps it lively and fresh. A silky texture makes it a good choice now as temperatures drop.