A blend of roughly two-thirds Chardonnay and one-third Pinot Noir, all from Premier Cru villages, De Saint-Gall’s Le Tradition delivers a rounder style of Champagne while still maintaining a balancing edge of acidity. It is a fine choice as a celebratory aperitif but also holds up nicely to fish or chicken filets in a cream sauce.… Read more
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Domaine Vincent Wengier, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($21)
Although Aligoté, the second white grape of Bourgogne, comprises only about 10 percent of the white plantings there, climate change and increased interest in the grape by growers makes Bourgogne Aligoté worth exploring. In the past, Aligoté, a lean and acidic wine, was used primarily to offset the sweetness of crème de cassis in an aperitif, Kir.… Read more
Alexandre Burgaud, Beaujolais-Villages Lantignié (Burgundy, France) La Colline de Chermieux 2019 ( $28)
Alexandre Burgaud represents the 4th generation of the family producing wine in Beaujolais. Although not a cru like Moulin-à-Vent or Fleurie, Lantignié, a village in the Beaujolais-Villages appellation that lies just outside of the designated cru appellations, can make distinctive Beaujolais (and deserves to be granted cru status).… Read more
Laherte Frères, Champagne (France) “Ultradition” Brut NV ($56)
A red grape-heavy blend (60 percent Pinot Meunier and 10 percent Pinot Noir) imparts power to this while the Chardonnay provides a strong and balancing backbone. It is a powerful argument against those who say Pinot Meunier is the lesser of the trio of Champagne grapes.… Read more
Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($24)
Goisot, one of the top producers in the Côtes d’Auxerre, an up-and-coming appellation just west of Chablis, makes an extraordinarily consistent range of wines from that appellation. Their name on the label is a guarantee of quality. And because the appellations of Côtes d’Auxerre and Bourgogne Aligoté are less well known, the wines provide superb value.… Read more
Maison Albert Bichot, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($40)
The major Beaune-based négociants either make wines from their own vineyards or from grapes or newly pressed juice (must) they purchase from others. Sometimes they even buy wine made by others and finish the aging process themselves. They prefer to make wine from either their own grapes or purchased grapes because they control the pressing of the grapes, and the resulting wine is usually better.… Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio D’Oria, 2019 ($150, Kobrand)
This stellar Brunello comes from a single vineyard in the northwest section of the DOCG, near their estate. In a word, it is fabulous. It has everything you’d expect from great young Brunello—minerals and dark savory fruitiness packaged in a firm, yet not hard, frame.… Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($36, Kobrand)
Rosso di Montalcino, sometimes called “Baby Brunello,” can come from vineyards designated for Brunello—usually declassified Sangiovese that didn’t make the cut—or vineyards that are presumably less well situated and reserved strictly for Rosso. Nardi, a top Brunello producer, uses Sangiovese from young vines in Brunello-designated vineyards as well as Sangiovese from Rosso vineyards to produce this charming and fresh wine.… Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2019 ( $75, Kobrand)
Combine a top Brunello producer, Tenute Silvio Nardi, with a top Brunello vintage, 2019, and the result is unsurprisingly sensational. Captivating floral aromas pull you in and then, wham, a balance of firm, dark, cherry-like flavors and a marvelous minerality holds your attention.… Read more
Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Crianza (La Rioja, Spain) “Monte Real” 2021 ($16, Bodegas Riojanas USA)
Established in 1890, Bodegas Riojanas is one of the traditional producers of Rioja, so it’s not surprising that they label their Riojas in the traditional way, by how long the wine has aged, as opposed what is becoming very popular in Rioja now, by geography.… Read more
Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Reserva (La Rioja, Spain) “Monte Real de Familia” 2019 ($23, Bodegas Riojanas USA)
Although Rioja Reserva wines spend only a year in barrel, like Crianza bottlings, the source of the grapes is typically better and the required two years of bottle aging before release smooths out the rough edges. The mid-weight Monte Real de Familia Reserva delivers less fruitiness, and more complexity, with a distinct savory component.… Read more
Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Gran Reserva, La Rioja, Spain “Monte Real” 2014 ($48, Bodegas Riojanas USA)
Gran Reserva wines from Rioja require a minimum of five years before release, with at least two years in barrel. The grapes for Gran Reserva are always the highest quality, in this case Tempranillo from Bodegas Riojanas’ best vineyard. Fitting the expected profile, the mid-weight but not ponderous Gran Reserva from Monte Real conveys an impeccable balance of darker fruit and an appealing savory, almost leathery, kick.… Read more
Bortolomiol, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Bandarossa” Extra Dry 2023 ($25)
Prosecco Superiore, as my colleague here at Wine Review Online recently pointed out, is a category of Prosecco that is a step above those labeled simply Prosecco because the land from which the grapes come is, well, just better. Bortolomiol, certainly one of the names to remember, makes a range of fine Prosecco sparklers.… Read more
Agricola Punica, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT (Sardinia, Italy) “Samas” 2023 ($22, Kobrand)
The inclusion of Chardonnay (20%) into this Vermentino-heavy blend adds richness without destroying the saline minerality of the Vermentino. Rounder than most Vermentinos, it’s a fine choice for those who look for more umph in that variety. It is a good choice for grilled swordfish.… Read more
Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2023 ($50, Demeine Estates)
As my colleague here at Wine Review Online recently pointed out, “it’s the time to taste the ‘Good Stuff’” in reference to Prosecco. Well, this Cartizze from Sandi is really the “Good Stuff.” Cartizze, with its area of only about 250 acres of vines and accounting for about 0.1 percent of Prosecco’s output, is considered the pinnacle of the Prosecco quality pyramid.… Read more
Château des Jacques, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2023 ($25, Kobrand)
A small amount, less than five percent, of Beaujolais is white and made from Chardonnay. Maison Louis Jadot, the venerable Beaune-based Burgundy négociant, saw the potential of the Beaujolais region when they purchased the famed Château des Jacques in Moulin-à-Vent, among Beaujolais’ most famous Crus, in 1996.… Read more
Chianti Rùfina Ups its Game—Again
With the 2018 vintage, Chianti Rùfina introduced a new level of classification, called “Terraelectae,” to sit atop their pyramid of quality. With the 2020 vintage the Chianti Rùfina producers upped their game again by showing just how distinctive and noteworthy this new category of wine is.… Read more
Tenuta del Melo, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2022 ($15, R & B Wine Imports)
Gavi, the DOCG, takes its name from Gavi, the principal commune of the region. Wines from the DOCG remain underappreciated, perhaps because they are typically racy and sleek but not opulent, or perhaps the grape from which the wines must be made, Cortese, has little recognition.… Read more
Kumeu River, North Island (New Zealand) Chardonnay, Estate 2022 ($38, Wilson Daniels)
Kumeu River, owned by the charming and humble Brajkovich family, is arguably New Zealand’s top Chardonnay producer. Founded in 1944, they started making fortified wines and gradually transitioned to high quality still wine with, of all things, Müller-Thurgau, and eventually landed on Chardonnay.… Read more
Ronchi di Manzano, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2022 ($20, R&B Wine Imports)
Pinot Grigio grapes actually have a pinkish hue to them. When crushed gently, they make the usual white Pinot Grigio wine. When crushed with a touch more force or when the skins and juice are kept in contact for a little time during fermentation, the wine has a copper (ramato in Italian) tint.… Read more
Kumeu River, North Island (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Kumeu Village” 2022 ($25, Wilson Daniels)
If someone can find a better $25 Pinot Noir, please tell me. Until then, just buy this stunning one by the case. Although the wine is labeled Kumeu Village, the grapes come from Hawke’s Bay where they purchased vineyards in 2017, not being able to expand around Kumeu because of its proximity to Auckland.… Read more
Domaine Gérard Tremblay, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2021 ($40, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
The Tremblay family has always been a leader in Chablis. They were among the first to build a gravity-flow winery, which eliminates the need for pumps in Chablis shortly after WWII. (Pumping can harm the grapes and juice intended for more delicate wines such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.)… Read more
Domaine de Saint Cosme, IGP Vaucluse, Principauté D’Orange (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Deux Albion” 2023 ($25, Winebow)
Labeling aside, do not miss this wine. The Domaine de Saint Cosme is a top producer of red wine, especially their extraordinary Gigondas releases from the village where they are based. They are less well-known for white wines, though Les Deux Albion, may change that.… Read more
Drouhin Vaudon, Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($60, Dreyfus Ashby)
Back in the 1960s, Robert Drouhin, head of the venerable Beaune-based firm of Joseph Drouhin, had the vision to buy vineyard land in Chablis when the area was in crisis. At the time, many thought he was foolish, but today it’s clear he was a visionary.… Read more
Ronchi di Manzano, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2022 ($20, R&B Wine Imports)
There’s insipid Pinot Grigio and then there’s the real thing, like this one from Ronchi di Manzano, which made the varietal so popular. Unlike so many industrial renditions of Pinot Grigio, this one has weight and an enticing earthy accent to its bright and lively fruity component.… Read more
Cascina Adelaide, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Vigna Preda 2019 ($28, R&B Wine Imports)
My familiarity with Cascina Adelaide is limited to their superb Barolo, so I jumped at the chance to taste this Barbara d’Alba. Well, based on this example, their Barbera is in the same league as their Barolo releases. Cascina Adelaide’s aromatic 2019 Barbera is a delight because it’s fruity, but not too much so, and not heavy.… Read more
Beconcini, Terre di Puscany, Italy) “Maurleo” 2020 ($18, R&B Wine Import)
The history of the family Beconcini estate is like many in Tuscany. The grandfather liberates the land from the shackles of share-cropping in the 1950s and produces a variety of agricultural products, including grapes. The next generation focuses on viticulture and winemaking, eliminating everything else.… Read more
They’re at it again: Domaine du Cellier aux Moines is putting Juliénas on the map with Mount Bessay
They’re at it again: Domaine du Cellier aux Moines is putting Juliénas on the map with Mount Bessay.
The team at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines has reminded the world that great and distinctive wines can come from Givry (autocorrect, it’s not Gevrey) in the Côte Chalonnaise.… Read more
Badia di Morrona, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Felciaio” 2023
($20, VOS Selections): Badia di Morrona packs unusually good depth into their Vermentino. Saline-tinged acidity keeps it fresh and balances its weight. This Vermentino has real substance so uncork it with creatures from the sea that are swimming in a hearty sauce.… Read more
Badia di Morrona, Chianti Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2021
($26, VOS Selections): Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva. The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively. Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften. … Read more
Badia di Morrona, Chianti DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2022
($18, VOS Selections): Wines from the subregions of Chianti, like Chianti Classico or Chianti Rufina, often overshadow the wines from Chianti. Well, it’s a mistake for consumers to ignore wines labeled Chianti, a broad region with its own DOCG that can be home to excellent wines. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2022
($60): Oregon Chardonnay generally tend to be more restrained as well as less rich and flamboyant compared to those from California. Nicolas-Jay’s “Affinités” fits that pattern. Weighing in at 13-percent stated alcohol, it’s a refined wine, not boisterous, yet showing plenty of character. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG (Sardinia, Italy) “Monteoro” 2021
($20, Taub Family Selections / Palm Bay International): My colleague, Rich Cook, just reviewed the 2023 vintage of this wine highly. I want to highlight a slightly older version, still available at retail, because it shows that Vermentino, when grown on the right terroir by the right producers, benefits from a little age. … Read more
Domaine Brégeon, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson (Loire Valley, France) “La Molette” 2019
($45, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant): For over a decade now, Muscadet has a cru system, analogous to the Beaujolais crus. That is, identification of towns that have the potential to produce more distinctive and noteworthy wines. Wines from the Muscadet cru must have lower yields and be aged on the lees longer. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2022
($29, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co): Saint Véran, an appellation in Mâconnais, the southern part of Burgundy, abuts and surrounds Pouilly-Fuissé. Like its more famous — and expensive — neighbor, it makes only white wines and only from Chardonnay. Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, has been making a consistently excellent Saint Véran year in and year out for decades. … Read more
Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2022
($40): Combine William Fèvre, one of the top producers in Chablis, with an excellent vintage for that region and you get a terrific village wine. William Fèvre owns a staggering 200 acres of vineyards in Chablis, just under half of which carry either 1er Cru or Grand Cru designations, which leaves them a lot of choice for what they bottle under the village appellation. … Read more
Badia di Morrona, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “N’Antia” 2020
($38, VOS Selections): With N’Antia, Badia di Morrona shows that a Bordeaux blend can be successful outside of Bolgheri. Bright and floral, N’Antia conveys the same striking fruit and “not just fruit” flavor combination as the Taneto, albeit with a more graceful, less chunky profile. … Read more
Badia di Morrona, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Taneto” 2021
($25, VOS Selections): I was unfamiliar with the Pisa-based producer, Badia di Morrona until their Italian public relations firm sent me samples. After tasting a trio of their wines, I’m glad I’ve been introduced! Taneto, a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese, and Merlot, delivers both dark fruit and a “not just fruit” character that makes it very appealing. … Read more
Badia di Morrona, Terre di Pisa DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese “VignaAlta” 2019
($42, VOS Selections): With their N’Antia, Badia di Morrona shows how well Bordeaux varieties do in Tuscany outside of Bolgheri. With VignaAlta, they show that Sangiovese reigns supreme in Tuscany. Racy and elegant, the youthful 2019 VignaAlta is show stopping. Sure, red and dark cherries, the signature of Tuscan Sangiovese, are evident but more emerges as the wine sits in the glass. … Read more
Lionel Faury, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Ribaudes” 2021
($41, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant): St. Joseph, an important but sometimes overlooked appellation in the Northern Rhône, is exceptionally long, running on the west bank of that river from Cornas in the south to Condrieu in the north. Its soils and exposures are varied, given its length, unlike its more circumscribed neighbors, Cornas, Hermitage, and Côte Rôtie, so it’s hard to generalize about the wines. … Read more
Rotem and Mounir Saouma, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Arioso” 2020
($175, Vintus): With Arioso, and indeed all of Rotem and Mounir Saouma’s Rhône wines, the finesse and weightlessness of Burgundy meets the muscle of the Rhône. In Burgundy, the husband-and-wife team is a mini-négociant, buying small amounts of grapes or newly pressed wine from growers—typically just a few barrels—raising it, and bottling it under the Lucien Le Moine label. … Read more
Silver Oak, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
($100): Plush and sexy, Silver Oak’s dazzling 2020 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon delivers succulent dark fruit offset by black olive-like nuances. Polished and suave tannins provide support without being intrusive or distracting, allowing for immediate enjoyment with a steak. Good acidity keeps it bright and you coming back for another sip.… Read more
Quality Mexican Wine? Surely, You Jest?
Indeed, I do not. During a week-long family vacation to Mexico City over Christmas last year, we drank a range of intriguing and excellent wines from Mexico, along with Tequila, Mezcal and beer, of course. My takeaway message, in addition to finding some surprisingly good Sauvignon Blancs, Nebbiolos, and orange wines, was the seeming attitude of “let’s see what works.” … Read more
Nicolas-Jay Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “L’Ensemble” 2022
($75): Nicolas-Jay, a collaboration between Jean-Nicolas Méo, who runs the celebrated Domaine Méo-Camuzet, one of Burgundy’s top producers, and Jay Boberg, a music industry giant, is just a decade old and is already one of Oregon’s leading producers. Only the second vintage vinified in their own winery, their 2022s all have a captivating purity and elegance. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Own-Rooted” 2022
($95): The Own-Rooted bottling comprises grapes from sites in the Willamette, all of which contain vines more than 30 years old, including some grapes from their own Bishops Creek Vineyard. Grapes from Hyland Vineyard in the McMinnville AVA and from Nysa Vineyard in the Dundee Hills round out the blend. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay Estate, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Nysa Vineyard 2022
($95): It is not surprising that Nicolas-Jay focuses on single vineyard bottlings, like this one from the acclaimed Nysa Vineyard, given the Burgundian perspective Jean-Nicolas Méo brings to the project. The iron-tinged 2022 Nysa leads with gorgeous aromatics of dark fruit and minerals. … Read more
Rocche Costamagna, Barolo Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) Rocche Dell’Annunziata “Bricco Francesco” 2016
($96): Costamagna’s majestic Riserva, Bricco Francesco, comes from the higher part of Rocche Dell’Annunziata, which most producers believe has better soil and exposure. At eight years of age, its bricky color suggests maturity, but don’t be fooled. At this stage, engaging floral notes are apparent, followed by mineraly and red fruit nuances. … Read more
Rocche Costamagna, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2020
($60): Ian D’Agata, an Italian wine authority who has forgotten more about Italian wines than I know, says in Barolo: Terroir, Grapes, Crus, People, Places (2022), “I think Rocche Dell’Annunziata is one of Barolo’s best vineyard areas, a true Grand Cru if there ever was one.” … Read more
Ayala, Champagne (France) “A/18” Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut 2018
($130, Vintus): Curiously, the Ayala Champagne house, founded by a Columbian, Edmond de Ayala, is located in the town of Aÿ. Paradoxically, Aÿ, a town in the Vallée de la Marne, is known for great Pinot Noir, while Ayala’s focus is on Chardonnay. … Read more
From Decanter Magazine: Drinking wine with meals linked to better health outcomes
Public health officials and scientists continue to debate whether moderate drinking is harmful or beneficial. There is no debate that heavy drinking or binge drinking is harmful to health. Both are.
In the late 20th century, there was a flurry of studies that showed—and a 60-Minutes television segment that popularised the idea—that moderate drinking protected the heart.… Read more