($18): Iris Vineyards does it again with their racy and sleek 2022 Pinot Gris. Despite a modest 11.5 percent state alcohol, this light-weight wine packs a pleasing punch. Floral and bright, it dances on the palate, revealing delicate hint of pears and stone fruit flavors. … Read more
Category Archives: USA – Oregon
Oregon: The Latest French Invasion
The French have always played an important role in the American wine industry. Burgundy-born Paul Masson started making wine in California in the late 19th century, followed by Georges de la Tour, founder of Beaulieu Vineyards, in 1900. The second wave started in 1973 when Moët et Chandon established Domaine Chandon in Napa Valley. … Read more
Vino Vasai, Laurelwood District – Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “Barrel Select” 2021
($48): Vino Vasai is Italian for Potter’s Wine and explains why the latter is what you see when you pull the cork. Bill Sanchez, the winemaker and owner with his wife, Sandy, is a potter. Sandy explains that they had trouble when they tried to trademark Potter’s Wine, so, given her Italian heritage, they opted to name it in Italian. … Read more
Vino Vasai, Laurelwood District – Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2021
($58): Co-owner Sandy Sanchez, describes the Estate Reserve as their top wine. Certainly, it’s more concentrated and denser with more apparent oak character compared to their Barrel Select bottling. At this stage, it’s also has a slighter sweeter profile, presumably from what I assume is more substantial oak aging. … Read more
Vino Vasai, Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2019
($58): Vino Vasai’s Pinot Noir dispel the myth that you need super ripe grapes, which translates into 14+ percent alcohol, to make stunning wines. This stunning 2019 Estate Reserve is a case in point. With only 12.7 percent stated alcohol, it delivers what to me is the hallmark of Pinot Noir — flavor without weight. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) “Areté” Brut Blanc de Noirs 2019
($34): Made entirely from their estate-grown Pinot Noir, Iris’ brilliant bubbly displays the barest copper-colored hue. A fabulous array of red fruit nuances — wild strawberries, raspberries, and the like — are supported by a strict spine of acidity that keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2021
($25): Iris Vineyards draws on three AVAs from the Willamette, Eola Hills, Ribbon Ridge, and Yamhill-Carlton, for this crunchy red fruited Pinot Noir. Alluring smokey nuances, thankfully not from wildfires, adds a counterpoint to the crisp raspberry-like fruit in this mid-weight, 13.7 percent stated alcohol, Pinot Noir. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “House Call” Red Blend 2020
($20): This lively and juicy fruit focused blend of equal parts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, rounded out with Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, displays an array of black and red fruits supported by mild tannins and bright acidity. Weighing in under 14 percent stated alcohol, it’s not a heavy wine, rather a terrific choice for summer BBQ. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2020
($45): Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014. To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one. This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2020
($45): Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014. To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one. This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2020
($16): The range of Iris Vineyards’ wines I’ve tasted recently have been so noteworthy for quality and price, I would be tempted to buy future offerings without having tasted them beforehand. Take this 2020 Pinot Gris. It is simply marvelous, with subtle hint of pears and stone fruit-like flavors perfectly balanced by zesty energy. … Read more
Youngberg Hill Vineyards, McMinnville (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay “Bailey Family” 2018
($85): The first sip of this tightly-wound Chardonnay is unimpressive. But don’t be put off by that, because it blossoms to reveal its grandeur. Despite techniques that should result in fatness, such as barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation, and barrel aging, this Chardonnay is sleek and racy. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2020
($24): I tasted and was enthralled by this Pinot Noir before I knew its price. After I saw the price, my enthusiasm exploded. It is rare to find a Pinot Noir with this kind of charm and subtlety for less than 25 bucks. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Areté” 2018
($35): The wine is great, really superb. The heavy bottle stinks. Iris trumpets sustainable farming practices on their website, but resorts to environmentally unhealthy heavy bottles. I’ll get off my soap box now because I review wines, not environmental practices, and this one is worth raving about. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Oregon (United States) “House Call” 2019
($20): Though not apparent from the label, Iris’ 2019 House Call is a Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Franc (50%), Malbec (32%) and Merlot. Since Oregon’s signature red is Pinot Noir, it is odd to think of a Bordeaux blend coming from there. … Read more
Lenné Estate, Yamhill-Carlton District (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “South Slope Select” 2019
($55): I was unfamiliar with Lenné’s wines before tasting this Pinot Noir and their Sad Jack bottling. I am now adding Lenné to my list of favorite Oregon producers. While both wines are extraordinary in their own right, comparing them shows the amazing spectrum of Pinot Noir. … Read more
Lenné Estate, Yamhill-Carlton District (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “Sad Jack 777” 2019
($55): In my opinion, Sad Jack is the wrong name for this bottling because drinking it makes me extremely happy. Intriguing aromatics draw you in immediately and accurately predict joy. The seamless mixture of fruit, spice, and savory influences in this mid-weight red is beguiling. … Read more
Vino Vasai, Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2018
($58): I was surprised and did a double take as I pulled the cork. There, in bold letters, was Potter’s Vineyard. I figured somebody screwed up somewhere. No, it turns out that Vino Vasai, Italian for potter’s wine, explains why the cork proclaims that name. … Read more
Vino Vasai, Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2017
($58): It is either an extra year of bottle age, a different growing season, or more likely, a combination of both, that makes Vino Vasai’s 2017 such an exciting wine. Lighter than the 2018 vintage release, and more red-fruited than black, it’s energetic and elegant. … Read more
Bells Up: A Tiny New Oregon Estate
With only a 600-case annual total production, Bells Up is tiny, but their wines tell me their imprint will be huge. Bells Up is a musical term, and since I know little about music, I will quote from their website: “‘Bells Up’ refers to a dramatic moment in classical music where the composer instructs French horn players to lift the bells of the instruments up and project sound with maximum intensity. … Read more
Caballus Cellars, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2016
($129): Caballus, a cooperative effort of Veronique Drouhin and Isabell Dutartre, two horse lovers, mothers, and winemakers, is a stunning wine that shows the heights Oregon Pinot Noir can achieve. Caballus starts with wonderful aromatics and them combines bright but subtle red fruit flavors with minerals. … Read more
Résonance, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2017
($37): Résonace is just another example of how the Burgundians believe in the potential of the Willamette Valley, especially for Pinot Noir. Drouhin started what is now a trend with establishment of Domaine Drouhin Oregon three decades ago. Maison Louis Jadot, another stellar Burgundy producer, purchased the 20-acre Resonance Vineyard in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA in 2013 and expanded by buying the Découverte Vineyard in the Dundee Hills AVA. … Read more
Résonance, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2018
($37): The 2018 Résonance Pinot Noir is Jadot’s eighth vintage. Unsurprisingly, the wines just get better and better. Their 2018 is riper and slightly more robust — black cherries rather than red ones — than their 2017, yet conveys the same lovely freshness and vivacity. … Read more
St. Innocent, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Freedom Hill Vineyard 2018
($36): The Freedom Hill Vineyard, located in the foothills of the Coast Range ten miles southwest of Salem, benefits from the warmth of the valley floor (which aids ripening) and night time ocean breezes (which lower temperatures and allows grapes to hold acidity). … Read more
St. Innocent, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Freedom Hill Vineyard “Cuvée La Liberté 2018
($53): The Cuvée La Liberté is a cellar selection of the best barrels of St. Innocent’s Freedom Hill Vineyard Chardonnay. They consider it their top Chardonnay, making fewer than 100 cases of it compared to 1,100 cases of Freedom Hill Vineyard Chardonnay. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2019
($25): Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio? Same grape but different styles of wine. Naumes has, in a near magical way, combined the best of both styles with this alluring wine. It delivers the luxurious pear-like flavor associated with Pinot Gris with the delicate weight often found with Pinot Grigio. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “GSM” 2018
($40): Naumes included Petite Sirah in their 2018 GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend), which somehow, thankfully, does not make the wine denser than usual. It’s a charming light red bursting with spiced wild strawberry-like flavors. For all the muscle you might think those varieties are capable of providing, this spritely GSM dances on the palate. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “SMP” 2018
($40): While Naumes’ GSM, a traditional Mediterranean blend, their SMP (Syrah, Mourvèdre and Petite Sirah) is more unusual. Replacing Grenache with Petite Sirah changes the character entirely, creating a muscular, black-fruited wine. Naumes, as always, avoids getting carried away. They’ve created a bold, yet not overdone, red that delivers a wonderful combination of plum and pepper notes wrapped in fine tannins. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “Triolet 2018
($40): A blend of Barbera (60%) and equal parts Malbec and Grenache, Triolet makes a fascinating contrast to Naumes’ straight Barbera. This wine delivers with more power with less focus. Unsurprisingly, given the inclusion of Malbec, it’s more muscular, with smokey nuances. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Barbera 2018
($35): Barbera, the workhorse grape of Piedmont, is a good “go-to” red wine for Italian food because of its racy acidity and energy. It’s great to see credible renditions appearing in this side of the Atlantic. Naumes’ 2018 Barbera, similar to its 2017, is far more than credible.… Read more
David Paige Wines, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay 2018
($29): The cooler Oregon climate likely explains why most Chardonnays from there are typically more understated than most California renditions of Chardonnay. Finesse-filled and restrained, but certainly not lacking a presence, the 2018 David Paige Chardonnay fits that profile. A real plus is its below-$30 price tag, unusual for a Chardonnay of this stature. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Viognier 2019
($30): This is the third consecutive year when Naumes Family Vineyard has hit the mark with Viognier, a notoriously difficult grape to tame. I could easily cut and paste my reviews of their 2017 and 2018 for this one. But, frankly, it is worth repeating because although balance is always key in wines, it is especially important with Viognier, whose window of ripeness is narrow. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate, “Pommard Clone” 2017
($40): If the Naumes Pinot Noir Clone 667 was the weight-lifter, this one is the ballerina. Light in color and on the palate, it dances on the palate. It’s a captivating lighter style of Pinot Noir. If you prefer the Clone 667, you won’t be enthralled by this one and vice-versa. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate, “Clone 667” 2017
($40): I won’t get into the scientific definition of a clone as it relates to grape varieties. Suffice it to say that in this case it’s a Pinot Noir with unique qualities. The wine certainly is very different from their blended Pinot Noir, showing more fruit, more concentration and fewer earthy flavors. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) “Tanto Manta” 2017
($40): This fifty-fifty blend of Tempranillo and Grenache marries the two beautifully. The Tempranillo provides structure and minerals while the Grenache contributes a floral fruitiness. More approachable than the straight Tempranillo at this stage, it would be a good choice with a hearty pasta dish tonight.… Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) Malbec 2017
($35): Full disclosure: Malbec is not my favorite wine because too often it is just a big monotonic red wine. So, I was shocked when I tasted this one. There’s lots going on — fruit, to be sure, but smokey and earthy nuances peek out as well. … Read more
Résonance, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2018
($35): In 2013, the venerable Beaune-based négociant, Maison Louis Jadot, made their first acquisition outside of Burgundy when they purchased the 20-acre Resonance vineyard located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. It was a unique site since it had been planted almost exclusively to Pinot Noir, and had always been farmed organically and without irrigation, according to Pierre-Henri Gagey, the President of Maison Louis Jadot. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) Viognier 2018
($30): The Viognier grape is tough to translate properly into a wine. Ripeness is necessary to release its inherent floral character, but over-ripeness results in a heavy wine. Naumes strikes the balance. Lovely floral apricot aromas predict the stone fruit flavors that follow. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) “Triolet” 2017
($40): The blend, Barbera (60%) and Malbec, is unique. I know of no other winery producing it. The name, Triolet, which is a type of poem, according to the dictionary, is equally unique. Corey Shultz, the winery director, says the name is to honor the Naumes Family’s triplets and that in subsequent vintages there will be third grape in the blend. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2017
($40): Captivating herbal notes are immediately apparent in the nose and later on the palate. A blend of several clones of Pinot Noir, this is a delicate and airy example of the varietal, displaying a wondrous mixture of savory and fruity flavors.… Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) Syrah 2017
($35): This big, bold Syrah has beautiful balance and bright acidity that keeps it fresh and lively. It conveys a splendid combination of savory, almost bacon fat-like nuances, spicy black pepper notes, and dark fruitiness. Though youthful and forceful, it is not overdone or boisterous. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) Tempranillo 2017
($30): As much as I liked Naumes 2016 Tempranillo, their 2017 struck me as even better. Its firmness and minerality presents a great contrast to the fleshy and fruitier Malbec. It is structured without being aggressive or hard. Its stature is apparent in the long and attractive hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
A Rogue in Oregon
One definition of rogue is “something out of the ordinary.” It is fitting, then, that the Naumes Family Winery is located in Oregon’s Rogue Valley, because they certainly do something out of the ordinary. Ordinary, in terms of Oregon wine, is pretty clear: superb Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and notable Pinot Gris. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2018
($25): Although Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are the French and Italian words for the same grape, the name chosen by New World producers usually defines the style of the wine. Naumes’ rendition, with its subtle hint of pear-like flavors, delivers the fleshy Pinot Gris version. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “GSM” 2017
($40): GSM stands for the classic Mediterranean blend: Grenache (50%); Syrah (33%) and Mourvèdre. Naumes has fashioned an exquisitely balanced mid-weight wine from these grapes, each of which adds something. Grenache makes its presence known with lively spice, while Syrah adds power and Mourvèdre savory nuances. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Barbera 2017
($35): Plantings of Barbera in Oregon, let alone in the Rogue Valley, must be miniscule. The 2018 Oregon Vineyard and Winery Report doesn’t even mention the grape in their detailed statistics. Judging from this wine, more wineries will be planting it. … Read more
Siduri Wines, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2018
($35): Siduri, named for the Babylonian goddess of wine, specializes in Pinot Noir, especially single vineyard bottlings. According to their website they make only single vineyard wines from a total of 20 vineyards throughout California and Oregon. Fortunately, they have expanded their production and now produce blended wines from three appellations: Willamette Valley in Oregon, plus two from California, specifically, Santa Barbara County, and the Russian River Valley. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Grenache 2016
($35): The Rogue Valley Winegrowers Association’s website tells us that the Rogue Valley, Oregon’s southernmost winegrowing area, has 4,000 acres of vines. The most important red wines in the warm area are made from Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, and Malbec. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2016
($40): The history of the Naumes Family Vineyards seems to confirm the mantra that good wine starts in the vineyard. They’ve been making wine only for a handful of years, but have been farming fruit for 100 years, according to their website. … Read more
Penner-Ash, McMinnville (Oregon) Old Vine Riesling Hyland Vineyard 2017
($35): Many consumers shy away from Riesling because it comes in a range of sweetness, which is not always apparent from the label. Penner-Ash uses the scale developed by the International Riesling Foundation on the back label that indicates this wine is “medium dry” on the scale that goes from “dry” (the least sweet) to “sweet” with “medium dry” and “medium sweet” in between. … Read more