Vino Vasai, Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2017

($58):  It is either an extra year of bottle age, a different growing season, or more likely, a combination of both, that makes Vino Vasai’s 2017 such an exciting wine.  Lighter than the 2018 vintage release, and more red-fruited than black, it’s energetic and elegant.  It has the same mineral component and balancing firmness as Vino Vasai’s 2018.  At a modest 13.3 percent stated alcohol, this long and graceful Pinot Noir delivers that grape’s quintessential quality, flavor without weight.  Drink this one now — grilled salmon pops to mind — while waiting for the 2018 to come together.
95 Michael Apstein May 24, 2022