With their 0.8 hectare plot, Lafouge owns two-thirds of this small, south facing Premier Cru. The enchanting 2024 shows a decidedly spicy or brambly – and thoroughly enjoyable – side to Auxey-Duresses. With enticing red fruit flavors, this clean mid-weight charmer finishes fresh with a lively kick.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Duresses 2024 ($57, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
As expected from the most acclaimed vineyard in the village (it did append its name), the wine has a majesty from its combination of dark fruit and minerals, all atop a suave, yet firm, texture. It shows the wonderful complexity of Burgundy: Les Duresses, on the same slope as La Chapelle (but facing southeast as opposed to La Chapelle’s more southern exposure) imbues more finesse and elegance, along with more structure, to the wine.… Read more
Domaine des Griffes, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2024 ($34, USA Wine Imports)
There is no doubt that Sancerre is popular. A rendition is on practically every bistro’s wine list, often by the glass, whether in Paris or New York. And for good reason. With real Sancerre you taste the chalk and limestone of the appellation – the terroir speaks – not the too often cat-pee-like herbaceousness of the grape, Sauvignon Blanc.… Read more
Schrader Cellars, Oakville – Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Double Diamond” 2023 ($75)
As a “second” wine, Double Diamond is surprisingly impressive. I guess it should not come as a surprise because second wines from iconic estates (think Carruades de Lafite) should be impressive. Napa Valley’s Schrader Cellars, who boasts of having produced 42 100-point wines, should qualify as an iconic estate.… Read more
Le Brun Servenay, Champagne Grand Cru (France) “Mélodie en C” Extra Brut NV ($56, Becky Wasserman Selection)
It is no wonder that this NV Champagne sings. The grapes for this Blanc de Blancs – curiously there is no indication of that on the label – come exclusively from Grand Cru villages on the Côtes de Blanc, namely, Avize, Oger and Cramant (and from vines averaging 40 years in age).… Read more
Raventós i Blanc, Conca del Riu Anoia (Catalonia, Spain) Vinya dels Fòssils – De la Finca 2023 ($40)
I’ve said it before, but it is worth repeating (especially as the prices of sparkling wines increase), I know of no finer producer of Spanish sparkling wines than Raventós i Blanc. Over a decade ago, Raventós i Blanc left the official Cava DO because they felt that lax regulations led to substandard wines, degrading the Cava name.… Read more
Mazzolino, Oltrepò Pavese DOC (Lombardy, Italy) Pinot Nero “Terrazze Alte” 2024 ($35)
Pinot Noir is the most widely planted grape in Oltrepò Pavese, and more Pinot Noir is planted in Oltrepò Pavese than anywhere else in Italy. Indeed, after Burgundy and Champagne, Oltrepò Pavese is the third largest region for Pinot Noir in Europe.… Read more
Mazzolino, Oltrepò Pavese DOC (Lombardy, Italy) Pinot Nero “Noir” 2023 ($60)
Mazzolino’s best vineyard, planted in 1998, provides the Pinot Noir for this, their flagship bottling. Its slightly dark color compared to their Terrazze Alte Pinot Noir accurately predicts a touch more ripeness and power, but the wine still falls easily into the light- to mid-weight category.… Read more
Carter Estate, South Coast (California) “Penrose” 2023 ($43)
Carter Estate has crafted a hearty red from an unusual blend of mostly Portuguese grapes (Tinto Roriz, Tinta Cao, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Nero), with a bit (2 percent) of Zinfandel thrown in for good measure. This balanced blend actually works, producing a robust but not a flamboyant or heavy red.… Read more
Mayacamas Vineyards, Mt. Veeder – Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($185)
After all these years Mayacamas still has its mojo. Their 2022 Cabernet shows the heights Napa Valley Cabernet can achieve. With many Napa Cabs falling into an overdone style, the robust yet balanced 2022 Mayacamas is no monster. It dazzles with intrigue, displaying a plethora of dark fruit notes coupled with a marvelous stoney, even lava-like earthiness.… Read more
Domaine Lafouge, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2024 ($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
Domaine Lafouge, a family estate established in Auxey-Duresses in 1650, is a name to remember. Currently run by Gilles Lafouge and his son Maxine, the 4th and 5th generations, respectively, Domaine Lafouge delivers high quality, well-priced Burgundy (a rarity these days).… Read more
Domaine Lafouge, Auxey Duresses (Burgundy, France) Les Hautés 2024 ($55, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
Les Hautés, a north-east facing lieu-dit bordering Meursault sits at about 300 meters above sea level and is further cooled by wind coming down the valley. The locale is well-suited to cope with climate change. The soil is a continuation of what is in Meursault but with less clay and less iron, which explains its airiness.… Read more
Domaine Lafouge, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Les Meix Chavaux 2024 ($86, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
The lieu-dit Les Meix Chavaux, facing northeast, sits high on the hill abutting the border with Auxey-Duresses. Here, the redder, iron-containing limestone soil contributes to the wine’s elegance, according to Maxine. I think what gives Lafouge’s Les Meix Chavaux its incredible finesse and stature is the near century-old vines planted by Maxine’s great grandfather in 1928 and 1929.… Read more
Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Duresses “Dit La Parapelle” 2024 ($65, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
Duresses was added to the town’s name in 1924, adopting the Burgundian custom of adding the town’s best vineyard to its name. On the opposite valley from Les Hautés, and facing southeast, the vineyard is basically an extension of Volnay and Monthélie.… Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier aux Moines 2024 ($68)
Clos du Cellier aux Moines, one of the original vineyards awarded Premier Cru status, faces full south in Givry’s amphitheater of vines, which helps explain its power. Hélène Sarkis, Joblot’s managing director, also believes that the clay in the soil imparts a broader profile to the wine.… Read more
Villa Bucci, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy) 2023 ($31, Ethica Wines)
Consumers often overlook Verdicchio, one of the world’s top wine grapes. Well, the place to start is with Villa Bucci’s fairly-priced and energetic examples. The “Classico” moniker means that the grapes came from the heart of the region, while “Superiore” equates with greater ripeness and depth.… Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Bois Chevaux 2024 ($55)
Givry, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise is an under-the-radar Burgundy appellation for high quality and affordable Burgundy, especially its Pinot Noir-based red wines. The Premier Cru vineyards lie in an east- and south-facing amphitheater at roughly 200 to 300 meters above cellar, similar to the exposure of its northernly and most expensive neighbor, the Côte d’Or.… Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Marole 2024 ($55)
Despite sitting adjacent to Les Bois Chevaux, and coming from the same producer, the stunning Clos Marole displays a wonderfully different expression of Givry. The slope of Clos Marole is not quite so steep, and the soil contains more clay, which likely explains why the expression of Pinot Noir in this part of Givry runs more towards black-toned rather than red, fruit.… Read more
G. D. Vajra, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) 2022 ($40, Vajra USA)
Barbera d’Alba is often my go-to wine when dining at Italian restaurants. And G. D. Vajra is as talented and consistent producer as you are likely to fine. So, when the two converged on a wine list at the exceptional Il Capriccio outside of Boston, I jumped.… Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Servoisine 2024 ($67)
The south-facing Premier Cru Servoisine vineyard is actually a continuation of the famous Clos du Cellier aux Moines vineyard, just lying further down on the slope. Here, the wine’s profile shows red fruit character, but with more firmness and structure. Gorgeous aromatics predict greatness and the first sip – and subsequent ones – do not disappoint.… Read more
Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2024 ($45, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
Bourgogne Côte d’Or, a relatively new addition to the regional Bourgogne appellation, indicates that all the grapes came from the prestigious Côte d’Or. I find wines with this appellation made by top producers, like Domaine Michel Bouzereau, to be the place to find bargains in Burgundy.… Read more
Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) Clos du Moulin 2024 ($50, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
Since there are five Meursault-based producers containing the name Bouzereau, the consumer must read the label carefully. Though I’ve not tasted wine from all of them, the wines from Domaine Michel Bouzereau, which I have tasted over many years, are so terrific that I can’t imagine there’s a better one.… Read more
Rotari, TrentoDOC (Trentino, Italy) Rosé NV ($21)
Far too many consumers believe that Prosecco is Italy’s sole sparkling wine. Well, it’s not. In the province of Trentino, in the foothills of the Alps, producers have long been making delicious sparkling wines, like this one, from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (the grapes used for Champagne, and by the metodo classico, the classic – or Champagne method).… Read more
Rotari, TrentoDOC (Trentino, Italy) Brut NV ($19)
Consumers will be hard pressed to find a more enjoyable sparkling wine at the price than this one from Rotari. TrentoDOC is a high-altitude area in Trentino in northern Italy renowned for making top-quality sparkling wines. This one, made entirely from Chardonnay by the traditional “Champagne method” of a secondary fermentation in the bottle, combines firmness with a subtle creamy texture.… Read more
Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Les Grands Charrons 2024 ($89, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)
In the right hands, like those of Domaine Michel Bouzereau, the wines from Les Grands Charrons, a lieu-dit, can come across as a Premier Cru. As much as I like their Clos du Moulin, Les Grands Charrons is just longer, deeper with more finesse.… Read more
Château D’Arsac, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($35)
As Château D’Arsac, classified as a Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, shows, value — great value indeed — exists in Bordeaux. Their fully mature mid-weight 2018 shows the wonderful and seamless combination of dark fresh fruit nuances offset by those “not just fruit” flavors characteristic of a mature wine.… Read more
Domaine La Pépière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson (Loire Valley, France) 2023 ($32)
About 15 years ago, the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation identified villages whose wines were particularly distinctive and allowed them to add their name to the label, analogous to the Cru sites of Beaujolais. Clisson, being the most highly regarded, was among the first to receive the accolade.… Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Montagny (Burgundy, France) 2023 ($49, Dreyfus Ashby)
Montagny, an appellation that takes its name from the eponymous town in the Côte Chalonnaise, is a consistently fine place for affordable white Burgundy. It boasts many 1er Cru vineyards as a quirk of war. Situated within the occupied zone during World War II, the Germans had to pay for classified wines, so growers rushed to get vineyards promoted.… Read more
Eric Forest, Mâcon-Pierreclos (Burgundy, France) Le Clos des Charmes 2023 ($40)
The Mâconnais in southern Burgundy continues to be a great source for well-priced Chardonnay-based white wines, like this one. If the grapes come exclusively from one of the 26 villages recognized to produce more distinctive wine, like Pierreclos, its name can appear on the label.… Read more
Domaine Dureuil-Janthial, Rully (Burgundy, France) En Guesnes 2022 ($81)
Rully, a village in Burgundy’s Côte Chalonnaise just south of the more famous and expensive Côte d’Or, is a fine place to find more affordable red and white wines. Domaine Dureuil-Janthial, arguably the appellation’s best producer, is a good address at which to start to discover this appellation.… Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Veau 2024 ($65)
About 90 percent of holdings of Domaine Joblot, one of the top producers in Givry, are in 1er (or “Premier”) Cru vineyards, like this one. This 4th generation, still family-owned estate, farms all their vineyards organically. Although most of Givry’s production is red, that Côte Chalonnaise village does produce distinctive whites, like Joblot’s En Veau.… Read more
Far Mountain, Moon Mountain – Sonoma County (California) Montecillo Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($106)
The Cabernet Sauvignon vines planted in Montecillo Vineyard dates from 1964, making them some of the oldest in California. The age of the vines helps explain the wine’s grandeur. Rodrigo Soto, Far Mountain’s winemaker, uses his considerable talents to judiciously extract everything from the grapes without falling into the trap of going overboard.… Read more
Far Mountain, Moon Mountain – Sonoma County (California) Monte Rosso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 ($100)
Although Louis M. Martini was not the first to produce wine from the famed Monte Rosso vineyard, he was the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon there and make sensational wines from it, showing the grandeur of the site. This high-elevation vineyard takes its name from its red, rocky, and well-drained soil.… Read more
La Tour Saint-Hilaire, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($70)
While $70 would not be considered an inexpensive wine for most people, this stunning white Burgundy is a bargain for what it delivers. Its lowly appellation – not even a specific village within the Côte Chalonnaise – highlights the failings of the French appellation system and reminds consumers to avoid being wedded to it.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot,Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Ursules Monopole (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($123, Kobrand)
Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, is a major grower, owning, through their various estates, over 300 acres of vineyards in the Côte d’Or. Clos des Ursules was the first vineyard Maison Louis Jadot acquired two hundred years ago, in 1826.… Read more
Frog’s Leap Winery, Rutherford – Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($28)
While Napa Valley is justly known for Cabernet Sauvignon, Frog’s Leap Winery, founded in 1981, decided Sauvignon Blanc would be their first release. In retrospect, that seems like a typical John Williams move, the man who, along with Larry Turley, founded Frog’s Leap and always thinks outside of the box.… Read more
Monte Rosso Estate, Moon Mountain – Sonoma County (California) Monte Rosso Vineyard Semillon 2023 ($65)
The famed Monte Rosso vineyard is large, comprising 545 acres, of which roughly 180 are planted. As of 2025, the vineyard has been certified as organic. The Semillon vines, originally planted in a 3.8-acre plot in 1886 and thought to be the oldest in North Hemisphere, comprise less than two percent of the plantings.… Read more
La Farra, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2025 ($21)
At a time when Prosecco has become the generic name for sparkling wine, an explanation regarding the label will help understand why this “Prosecco” is so good. The Italian wine authorities has awarded Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore with a DOCG designation rather than just DOC because the grapes come steep hillside vineyards in the foothills of the alps (this swath of vineyards is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site) rather than vineyards on the surrounding flat land.… Read more
La Farra, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Rive di Farra di Soligo Extra Dry 2025 ($27)
The Rive designation adds yet another quality indicator to Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG moniker because it means the grapes came from a specific vineyard on the steep hillsides of the Valdobbiadene area. Once again, better grapes mean better wine. Extra Dry is a bit of a misnomer because wines with the Brut or Extra Brut designation are actually drier.… Read more
Stewart Cellars, Moon Mountain – Sonoma County (California) Montecillo Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon “Nomad” 2023 ($175)
Montecillo Vineyard, one of California’s oldest, dates to 1857, a mere seven years after California joined the union. This dry-farmed vineyard with fractured basalt soils sits from 1200 to 1800 feet above sea level. Cracks in the rocks provide excellent drainage while keeping the roots moist and cool.… Read more
La Farra, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Rive di Farra di Soligo Extra Brut 2025 ($28)
This stellar bubbly shows all “Prosecco” is not the same. Not just a Prosecco, this wine carries a much more exalted – and well-deserved – appellation: Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. The Extra Brut designation, the driest category, explains why a bracing mineral component is front and center while a lacy fruitiness takes a secondary role.… Read more
Bodegas Viña Nora, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Nora da Neve” 2019 ($45, Aviva Vino)
Bodegas Viña Nora has successfully employed judicious oak aging – seven months in new barrels – to add a seductive, vanilla-tinged accent. Thankfully, the oak neither dominates nor intrudes on the core of fruit, and the spark of Albariño is still apparent.… Read more
Bodegas Granbazán, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Don Álvaro de Bazán” 2021 ($65, Europvin USA)
The team at Bodegas Granbazán planted the estate, which has multiple exposures and altitudes, 45 years ago with a variety of biotypes of Albariño, which gives them a broad range of fruit aromas and flavors with which to work. Their focus has always been to show how Rías Baixas can produce premium wines.… Read more
E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) La Landonne 2022 ($657, Vintus)
Marcel Guigal, the son of founder Étienne Guigal (hence the name of the firm is É. Guigal), planted their portion of the La Landonne vineyard in 1975 to celebrate the birth of Philippe, his son. Marcel acquired their 2.3-ha of La Landonne over the years by buying plots from various growers.… Read more
E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) La Reynarde 2022 ($657, Vintus)
Philippe Guigal continued the family tradition of honoring the next generation by planting a new vineyard, La Reynarde, to honor the birth of their twin sons. The 1.6-ha plot sits in the Fongeant lieu-dit in the Côte Brune only 500 feet from La Turque, and takes its name from the stream, Le Reynard, that separates the two Côtes.… Read more
E. Guigal, Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Ex Voto” 2022 ($642, Vintus)
As a négociant, Guigal made – and still makes – sensational red Hermitage. Finally, about 25 years ago when Guigal purchased the de Vallouit Domaine and the J.L. Grippat Domaine in the early 2000s, they acquired vineyards in various lieux-dits on the Hermitage hill.… Read more
Quinta de Couselo, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) “Rosal” 2023 ($27, Petit Pois)
While most wines from Rías Baixas are made entirely from Albariño, regulations in the Rosal (also called O Rosal), subregion of Rías Baixas require a combination of Albariño and Loureria to comprise 70 percent of the blend with the remainder coming from other approved white varieties.… Read more
E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) La Turque 2022 ($657, Vintus)
La Turque vineyard has been acclaimed since the early 20th century, with wines from it exclusively served at the Elysée Palace, according to Philippe Guigal, who currently oversees the Guigal estate. The previous owner of the vineyard failed to pay taxes, according to Philippe, the property was seized and eventually sold to Vidal-Fleury, another Côte Rôtie estate.… Read more
Chateau St Jean, Sonoma County (California) “Cinq Cepages” 2022 ($130)
Chateau St Jean first produced its flagship “Cinq Cepages” in 1990 and it gained cult status after Wine Spectator selected as its wine of year in 1999. The 2022 marks the first vintage under the ownership of Foley Family Wines, which acquired the property in 2021.… Read more
Silverado Vineyards, Stags Leap District – Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Solo” 2023 ($180)
Foley Family Wines acquired Silverado Vineyards, originally founded by the Disney family, in 2022, making this vintage their first. There’s no plan to change the origin or composition of this big-shouldered and iconic wine – single variety (Cabernet Sauvignon), single vineyard, single clone, hence its name “Solo.”… Read more