Category Archives: Reviews

Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Duresses 2024 ($57, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)

As expected from the most acclaimed vineyard in the village (it did append its name), the wine has a majesty from its combination of dark fruit and minerals, all atop a suave, yet firm, texture. It shows the wonderful complexity of Burgundy: Les Duresses, on the same slope as La Chapelle (but facing southeast as opposed to La Chapelle’s more southern exposure) imbues more finesse and elegance, along with more structure, to the wine.… Read more

Domaine des Griffes, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2024 ($34, USA Wine Imports)

There is no doubt that Sancerre is popular. A rendition is on practically every bistro’s wine list, often by the glass, whether in Paris or New York. And for good reason. With real Sancerre you taste the chalk and limestone of the appellation – the terroir speaks – not the too often cat-pee-like herbaceousness of the grape, Sauvignon Blanc.… Read more

Schrader Cellars, Oakville – Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Double Diamond” 2023 ($75)

As a “second” wine, Double Diamond is surprisingly impressive. I guess it should not come as a surprise because second wines from iconic estates (think Carruades de Lafite) should be impressive. Napa Valley’s Schrader Cellars, who boasts of having produced 42 100-point wines, should qualify as an iconic estate.… Read more

Raventós i Blanc, Conca del Riu Anoia (Catalonia, Spain) Vinya dels Fòssils – De la Finca 2023 ($40)

I’ve said it before, but it is worth repeating (especially as the prices of sparkling wines increase), I know of no finer producer of Spanish sparkling wines than Raventós i Blanc. Over a decade ago, Raventós i Blanc left the official Cava DO because they felt that lax regulations led to substandard wines, degrading the Cava name.… Read more

Mayacamas Vineyards, Mt. Veeder – Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($185)

After all these years Mayacamas still has its mojo. Their 2022 Cabernet shows the heights Napa Valley Cabernet can achieve. With many Napa Cabs falling into an overdone style, the robust yet balanced 2022 Mayacamas is no monster. It dazzles with intrigue, displaying a plethora of dark fruit notes coupled with a marvelous stoney, even lava-like earthiness.… Read more

Domaine Lafouge, Auxey Duresses (Burgundy, France) Les Hautés 2024 ($55, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)

Les Hautés, a north-east facing lieu-dit bordering Meursault sits at about 300 meters above sea level and is further cooled by wind coming down the valley. The locale is well-suited to cope with climate change. The soil is a continuation of what is in Meursault but with less clay and less iron, which explains its airiness.… Read more

Domaine Lafouge, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Les Meix Chavaux 2024 ($86, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)

The lieu-dit Les Meix Chavaux, facing northeast, sits high on the hill abutting the border with Auxey-Duresses. Here, the redder, iron-containing limestone soil contributes to the wine’s elegance, according to Maxine. I think what gives Lafouge’s Les Meix Chavaux its incredible finesse and stature is the near century-old vines planted by Maxine’s great grandfather in 1928 and 1929.… Read more

Domaine Joblot, Givry 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Bois Chevaux 2024 ($55)

Givry, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise is an under-the-radar Burgundy appellation for high quality and affordable Burgundy, especially its Pinot Noir-based red wines. The Premier Cru vineyards lie in an east- and south-facing amphitheater at roughly 200 to 300 meters above cellar, similar to the exposure of its northernly and most expensive neighbor, the Côte d’Or.… Read more

Domaine Joblot, Givry 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Marole 2024 ($55)

Despite sitting adjacent to Les Bois Chevaux, and coming from the same producer, the stunning Clos Marole displays a wonderfully different expression of Givry. The slope of Clos Marole is not quite so steep, and the soil contains more clay, which likely explains why the expression of Pinot Noir in this part of Givry runs more towards black-toned rather than red, fruit.… Read more

Domaine Joblot, Givry 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Servoisine 2024 ($67)

The south-facing Premier Cru Servoisine vineyard is actually a continuation of the famous Clos du Cellier aux Moines vineyard, just lying further down on the slope. Here, the wine’s profile shows red fruit character, but with more firmness and structure. Gorgeous aromatics predict greatness and the first sip – and subsequent ones – do not disappoint.… Read more

Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) Clos du Moulin 2024 ($50, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection)

Since there are five Meursault-based producers containing the name Bouzereau, the consumer must read the label carefully. Though I’ve not tasted wine from all of them, the wines from Domaine Michel Bouzereau, which I have tasted over many years, are so terrific that I can’t imagine there’s a better one.… Read more

Rotari, TrentoDOC (Trentino, Italy) Brut NV ($19)

Consumers will be hard pressed to find a more enjoyable sparkling wine at the price than this one from Rotari. TrentoDOC is a high-altitude area in Trentino in northern Italy renowned for making top-quality sparkling wines. This one, made entirely from Chardonnay by the traditional “Champagne method” of a secondary fermentation in the bottle, combines firmness with a subtle creamy texture.… Read more

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Montagny (Burgundy, France) 2023 ($49, Dreyfus Ashby)

Montagny, an appellation that takes its name from the eponymous town in the Côte Chalonnaise, is a consistently fine place for affordable white Burgundy. It boasts many 1er Cru vineyards as a quirk of war. Situated within the occupied zone during World War II, the Germans had to pay for classified wines, so growers rushed to get vineyards promoted.… Read more

Domaine Joblot, Givry 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Veau 2024 ($65)

About 90 percent of holdings of Domaine Joblot, one of the top producers in Givry, are in 1er (or “Premier”) Cru vineyards, like this one. This 4th generation, still family-owned estate, farms all their vineyards organically. Although most of Givry’s production is red, that Côte Chalonnaise village does produce distinctive whites, like Joblot’s En Veau.… Read more

Far Mountain, Moon Mountain – Sonoma County (California) Montecillo Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($106)

The Cabernet Sauvignon vines planted in Montecillo Vineyard dates from 1964, making them some of the oldest in California. The age of the vines helps explain the wine’s grandeur. Rodrigo Soto, Far Mountain’s winemaker, uses his considerable talents to judiciously extract everything from the grapes without falling into the trap of going overboard.… Read more

La Farra, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2025 ($21)

At a time when Prosecco has become the generic name for sparkling wine, an explanation regarding the label will help understand why this “Prosecco” is so good. The Italian wine authorities has awarded Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore with a DOCG designation rather than just DOC because the grapes come steep hillside vineyards in the foothills of the alps (this swath of vineyards is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site) rather than vineyards on the surrounding flat land.… Read more

La Farra, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Rive di Farra di Soligo Extra Dry 2025 ($27)

The Rive designation adds yet another quality indicator to Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG moniker because it means the grapes came from a specific vineyard on the steep hillsides of the Valdobbiadene area. Once again, better grapes mean better wine. Extra Dry is a bit of a misnomer because wines with the Brut or Extra Brut designation are actually drier.… Read more

Stewart Cellars, Moon Mountain – Sonoma County (California) Montecillo Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon “Nomad” 2023 ($175)

Montecillo Vineyard, one of California’s oldest, dates to 1857, a mere seven years after California joined the union. This dry-farmed vineyard with fractured basalt soils sits from 1200 to 1800 feet above sea level. Cracks in the rocks provide excellent drainage while keeping the roots moist and cool.… Read more

La Farra, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Rive di Farra di Soligo Extra Brut 2025 ($28)

This stellar bubbly shows all “Prosecco” is not the same. Not just a Prosecco, this wine carries a much more exalted – and well-deserved – appellation: Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. The Extra Brut designation, the driest category, explains why a bracing mineral component is front and center while a lacy fruitiness takes a secondary role.… Read more

E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) La Turque 2022 ($657, Vintus)

La Turque vineyard has been acclaimed since the early 20th century, with wines from it exclusively served at the Elysée Palace, according to Philippe Guigal, who currently oversees the Guigal estate. The previous owner of the vineyard failed to pay taxes, according to Philippe, the property was seized and eventually sold to Vidal-Fleury, another Côte Rôtie estate.… Read more

Silverado Vineyards, Stags Leap District – Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Solo” 2023 ($180)

Foley Family Wines acquired Silverado Vineyards, originally founded by the Disney family, in 2022, making this vintage their first. There’s no plan to change the origin or composition of this big-shouldered and iconic wine – single variety (Cabernet Sauvignon), single vineyard, single clone, hence its name “Solo.”… Read more