Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) 2017

($75, Vinifera):  Weighing in at 16.5 percent stated alcohol, this broad-shouldered wine is remarkably elegant.  Indeed, it’s the elegance you notice, not the power, although that’s hard to ignore.  As much as I liked Brigladara’s Valpolicella Classico Casa Vecie, their Amarone just conveys more complexity — a mix of fresh and dried fruit — and power without sacrificing gracefulness.  Hints of bitterness in the finish make it even more delightful.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 8, 2022