Carmignano, a small but highly regarded DOCG region (there are only about 20 producers) located northwest of Florence is the only one in Tuscany to require Cabernet in the blend with Sangiovese. Initially, Cabernet Franc was the grape of choice because that’s what Catherine de’ Medici had brought back from France in 16th century. In more modern times, Cabernet Sauvignon has replaced it. Unsurprisingly, most Carmignano wines need several years of aging to settle down to allow the mandatory 20 percent of Cabernet to integrate. Indeed, Capezzana routinely re-releases its Carmignano a decade after the initial release to make the point that this is a wine that develops well with age. Enter Barco Reale, really a Rosso di Carmignano, which Capezzana has been making since 1984, ten years before it received its own DOC. Hector Contini Bonacossi, a member of the family that owns Capezzana, explained that since 2021 they’ve modified the style to make it “fresher and even more friendly.” They substituted Canaiolo for half of the Cabernet, used grapes from younger vines, and made changes in the vinification – less extraction and switching to concrete vats instead of barrels–to lighten it. Capezzana’s zippy 2023 Barco Reale is a resounding success, especially considering that the vintage which tended to produce ripe and heavy wines. It delivers light, cherry-like nuances accented by spice and savory herbal elements. Mild tannins lend support and balance without interfering with current enjoyment. Enjoy Capezzana’s 2023 Barco Reale today with lasagna or ravioli bathed in a meaty ragù. Capezzana remains the benchmark for Barco Reale. Their 2023 shows why.
92 Michael Apstein – February 25, 2026