Ernst Loosen, the talented and dedicated German Riesling producer, has said he has always been struck how both Riesling and Pinot Noir transmit a sense of place. Well, now he has the chance to see the similarity first-hand because he has started to produce wines in Burgundy. For the Maison Perron de Mypont label he buys wines from growers in the Côte d’Or and the Côte Chalonnaise and blends them. He has clearly succeeded with his first, this 2022 mid-weight, finely tailored Bourgogne Rouge. Clean and fresh, a hint of mineral-like stoniness nicely offsets the bright red fruit elements. This is a linear and precise wine, much like his excellent Rieslings, rather than an over blown attention grabber. Try it this summer with grilled salmon.
92 Michael Apstein – June 25, 2025