Montecillo Vineyard, one of California’s oldest, dates to 1857, a mere seven years after California joined the union. This dry-farmed vineyard with fractured basalt soils sits from 1200 to 1800 feet above sea level. Cracks in the rocks provide excellent drainage while keeping the roots moist and cool. That combination likely explains how the wine’s superb acidity provides freshness while balancing the plummy ripeness of the majestic 2023. A fine tannic structure adds support and prevents jamminess in this powerhouse. Its plush and suave texture complete the package. Its 14.6 percent stated alcohol is hardly noticeable. That said, be sure to serve it at cellar, not room, temperature, even if you need to put it in the fridge for 15 minutes. If serving in the next year or so, I would suggest opening and decanting it several hours before serving because I was impressed how it had evolved with just even 30 minutes in the glass.
95 Michael Apstein – July 1, 2026