Viña Carmen, Apalta DO (Colchagua Valley, Chile) Red Blend “Delanz” 2022 ($31, Saranty Imports)

The heavy bottle predicts a big wine. And that is the case with this Carmenere-based blend, historically, and even now to a minor degree, a variety used in Bordeaux. Now, Carmenere’s real place in the world is Chile, where, in the past, it was frequently confused with Merlot and harvested along with the grape–too early–which turned out to be a real mistake. As a result, Carmenere acquired the reputation for producing vegetal wines. That’s a long introduction to how when handled correctly, that is, let the grape achieve proper maturity, as Viña Carmen has done with this Carmenere, the grape can produce a ripe and dark fruited wine accented with intriguing herbal, but not green or vegetal, qualities. Roughly equal parts (5% each) of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah round out the blend and provide complexity. To be sure, it’s a big, full-bodied wine, but not flamboyant, sitting atop a plush base. People who embrace that style will enjoy its power and richness. Drink now with hearty beef dishes.
Michael Apstein – April 29, 2026