This snappy wine shows why it’s important to take the advice of sommeliers. The wine list at Casa Mono, one of Manhattan’s top Spanish restaurants, is extensive with intriguing wine-by-the-glass options, including lots of lesser-known labels (or at least lesser known to me). So, I asked one of their sommeliers for something zesty to accompany fried soft shell crab with a gazpacho sauce, grilled sardines, and well spiced patatas bravas. He suggested this zippy wine, the first whiff of which smelled like the sea, which given the location of the vineyards near Cádiz made sense. The Vigiriega Blanca grape historically had been used for Manzanilla and Fino Sherry, but Orte has utilized it for this dry, non-fortified wine. Saline-infused acidity balances its weight and allows its complexity to shine. Its energy made it an excellent partner for every dish on the table.
93 Michael Apstein – June 3, 2026